Haven't written a how to for a while, so here go's
Spotted a Baileys DV on ebay for a friend the other day which was listed as faulty, took a punt on it knowing it wouldn't be too hard to fix anything due to their simplicity. Annnywho.
I've got a Forge 007p with loads of springs, and the DV Phil has got is a Baileys DV30. A good time to do a comparison and service on the two.
Servicing a 007p -
It's a really simple design, you simply unscrew the top and you're in.
Here's a quick look around the DV before I started -
Unscrew the top, it's tight but you will be able to do it by hand.
So with the top unscrewed the spring will push the cap off like so -
Pull the cap off and you have this -
Remove the spring and you will just have the piston say within the valve -
Then by pushing your finger in the bottom of the valve you will be able to push the piston out.
It looks like this -
As you can see mine is very worn; and it's leaky. That said it is 4 years old. It is typical to see wear marks in the areas shown on mine, but use common sense to work out if it is leaking or not.
If you look inside the valve you will see two O rings at the top of the valve, you can pull these out with your fingers -
With the O rings removed you can clean the seats they sit in with a cloth and have a good clean out within the valve itself. When clean replace the O rings with new ones; these are in the Forge service kit along with a new piston -
After you have refitted the O rings you can press the piston back in; make sure you grease the piston and O rings otherwise the valve will stick open. I've used lighter spray oils in the past and they dry out the seals and cause them to play up -
You can then refit the spring, I'll touch on the different springs at the end. The springs just sit in the middle of the piston and compress against the cap of the valve -
The top of the cap has a seat in which the spring sits, so it'll all compress up nicely -
Twist the top cap up "tight" by hand and that's it! All serviced and ready to go.
A common problem on 007p's which is often over looked is the wear on the lower of the piston not being even with the valve casing. This causes the valve to leak; a great way around this is to get a valve grinding dowel and some valve lapping paste and gently reface the piston in the valve.
Other than that they're very easy to work on, and so simple that you can't really go wrong if you follow those steps.
I'll write up the Baileys dump valve now, and then I'll do the 007p springs and my own personal opinion of the two.
Spotted a Baileys DV on ebay for a friend the other day which was listed as faulty, took a punt on it knowing it wouldn't be too hard to fix anything due to their simplicity. Annnywho.
I've got a Forge 007p with loads of springs, and the DV Phil has got is a Baileys DV30. A good time to do a comparison and service on the two.
Servicing a 007p -
It's a really simple design, you simply unscrew the top and you're in.
Here's a quick look around the DV before I started -
Unscrew the top, it's tight but you will be able to do it by hand.
So with the top unscrewed the spring will push the cap off like so -
Pull the cap off and you have this -
Remove the spring and you will just have the piston say within the valve -
Then by pushing your finger in the bottom of the valve you will be able to push the piston out.
It looks like this -
As you can see mine is very worn; and it's leaky. That said it is 4 years old. It is typical to see wear marks in the areas shown on mine, but use common sense to work out if it is leaking or not.
If you look inside the valve you will see two O rings at the top of the valve, you can pull these out with your fingers -
With the O rings removed you can clean the seats they sit in with a cloth and have a good clean out within the valve itself. When clean replace the O rings with new ones; these are in the Forge service kit along with a new piston -
After you have refitted the O rings you can press the piston back in; make sure you grease the piston and O rings otherwise the valve will stick open. I've used lighter spray oils in the past and they dry out the seals and cause them to play up -
You can then refit the spring, I'll touch on the different springs at the end. The springs just sit in the middle of the piston and compress against the cap of the valve -
The top of the cap has a seat in which the spring sits, so it'll all compress up nicely -
Twist the top cap up "tight" by hand and that's it! All serviced and ready to go.
A common problem on 007p's which is often over looked is the wear on the lower of the piston not being even with the valve casing. This causes the valve to leak; a great way around this is to get a valve grinding dowel and some valve lapping paste and gently reface the piston in the valve.
Other than that they're very easy to work on, and so simple that you can't really go wrong if you follow those steps.
I'll write up the Baileys dump valve now, and then I'll do the 007p springs and my own personal opinion of the two.