Help ! Relentless DP fitting

i had your prob mate with the dogbone, the mounts are located under the air filterhousing 2x bolts and two under the charge pipe by the cam cover, there 17 or 18mm cant remember, you cant miss them. once these bolts are loosend, you will be able to move the engine more freely.
Which in turn will allow you to line up the dog bone. i feel your pain mate took me five days and numerous trips buying tools and other parts.
 
really tempted, but too late now, I've already antagonised the neighbours. I think you're onto it, I had all 4 bolts undone and swinging the engine back and forth to get the DP in, so if it'd adjustable, I must have moved it more than once. Also I've read up on refitting the dogbone, some people suggest fitting the gearbox end first, I've tried to do it the other way. Things are looking up, I've got some options now. Thanks Karl.

Jezzy, thanks for the info - I'll try that if loosening the subframe doesn't work. I've bought loads of tools in the last week, over £150.
 
Last edited:
Ok, went out tonight with a head lamp and armed with tools.

Loosened the subframe, removed dog bone, engine drops back 15mm. Rocked the engine backwards and forwards, side to side. Pulled sub back as far as it would go. There's about 5mm adjustment in the sub. Tried the dogbone. It's way out now, about an inch or 25mm.

To me it looks like the engine is too far back. Will loosening the engine mounts help in this instance ?
 

Attachments

  • P1460721-001.jpg
    P1460721-001.jpg
    86.8 KB · Views: 161
Hi Dan,
as far as I know it its. The other end fits into a slot and is bolted on with 2 bolts.

I've tried moving the subframe as far back as it'd go and the engine as far forward as I can manage with a piece of wood wedge between the sump and sub frame and it's still at least 5mm out.
I had it caught on the webbing underneath the gearbox housing and the engine was rock solid, didn't seem right to me. Even if I could bolt it down, I reckon the car would shake itself to bits.
 
I did it up tight so that it would help get the thing on. If I do it to 40Nm, the total length would be longer and will be further out. I was hoping to get the db on, start the car so the engine would find it's natural position and I'd take the thing off and redo the torque. But it's so far out now.
 
did you undo the engine mount bolts? And yes it will help.
When fitting my mani and dp i never undid the subframe
 
Right I get you mate did not see the other pictures till now, that's quite a bit out looking at that 2nd picture, something is out of line for sure ? Subframe ? I really don't know mate
 
Didn't get round to loosening the engine mounts, started raining and I had to help sort my kids out for bed.
I'll try them tomorrow.
Cheers
 
Right I get you mate did not see the other pictures till now, that's quite a bit out looking at that 2nd picture, something is out of line for sure ? Subframe ? I really don't know mate

The subframe doesn't seem to move a huge amount, maybe 5mm from it's resting position. I think the engine is out of line, because I really did rock the engine back and forth to get the new DP in.
I'll try what Jezzy suggests.
 
if you need a hand let me know, im not that far away i work in redhill
 
Thank you Jezzy, much appreciated. I've been staring at the thing so long I reckon I'm looking straight past the solution. PMd
 
Thank you Jez !
Dogbone is on :yahoo:

Engine position was way out. Had to loosen the engine mount bolts and jack the engine up. Used 4 wooden boards to get enough elevation from the jack.

Jacking the up the engine withe mounts loose, meant they jack could pull the engine forward. I tried jacking it up but without loosening the bolts, it did't work.

So just to say again, thank you Jez, you're a gent.
 
Any time bud
only took fifteen mins to get home.
Glad i could help and hope you enjoyed the quick burn round the block.
If you need any more help just let me know
 
Your car is impressive - goes significantly better than mine. it'll be interesting to see what it'll do on the rollers.
It builds up boost very quickly and the midrange is incredible.

Hopefully I'll be able to re-assemble it without too much bother from this point. I'll have to get the alignment done, I loosened everything connected to the subframe, including the rack, wishbones etc don't think it can wait till the bushes are done. Saw that the big lower front wishbone bush is cracked on both sides. Also got some rear adj tiebars to go on, some LCR top mounts and R32 front and rear ARB. I might just leave it for a bit so my neighbours can recover!
 
Last edited:
Couldn't have done without you guys help - special thanks to Jez who went out his way to help me.

I was getting very frustrated with it and was about to through in the towel.

Now I've got to get the rest of it back together. I've also found the large front wishbone bushes are shagged.

I'm tempted to get new wishbones with new bushes and ball joints ready fitted, but it'll be a missed opportunity to fit powerflex or super pro bushes.

I've got a pair of R32 ARB to go in, LCR top mounts, adj rear tie bars, eibach springs to go on.

Remanants of the old DP.

In four seperate bits :haha:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0676-001.jpg
    IMG_0676-001.jpg
    97 KB · Views: 128
fitted the exhaust, one of the nuts seized on the sleeve - it was a new a2 stainless steel nut & bolt, so I had to take the sleeve and attacked it with a couple of breaker bars and it snapped the bolt.
fitted the 2nd lambda sensor, connected sensor connector, refitted tupperware box
double checked all the bolts around the subframe and dog bone.
fitted the 1st lambda sensor, connected sensor connector
fitted the charge pipe, found a rectangular piece of heatshielding with poppers, not sure where thats supposed to go, so I wrapped it around the 1st lambda sensor wires.
fitted the air filter housing, connected maf
fitted top strut bar
checked the wheel bolts, a couple were loose

checked everything, then found one of the drive shaft gaitor heatshield !
I'll refit later. Can't see it being a problem.
and a few 10mm, 13mm nuts ....

didn't get round to fitting the other bits yet

will go out for a test drive after dinner. I'll take the laptop and vcds with me and do some logging.

Wish me luck.
 
Karl,
you've got a point :yes:
... despite the whining, I still enjoy it when it, especially when it works.

Any how, started fine, engine light was on, but I did drive it for a few metres without the maf or any lambda sensors a few hours ago.

Cleared the codes and went out for a drive.

Just to re-iterate. My S3 has been off the road for 3 weeks. Since then it has had a Apexi intercooler, B5 tip and a relentless DP and sports cat.

Well, it works fine
w00t.gif
, turbo spools up a lot sooner and it or the tip makes a sucking sound around 3000 rpm. The midrange torque starts earlier and is sustained for a lot longer.
IAT were 7 degrees, even after pottering around town, but ambient is 5.5 degrees and it is chucking it down.
The pull tapers off about 6k. I think the map needs to be tweaked.

Haven't checked for exhaust leaks yet, way too wet out there, but it does sound louder than standard.
I'm considering a madmax dv, as it seems to allow the turbo to recover a lot quicker than the stock and 007 dvs.

I took logs too, I'll upload them later.

So :respekt: to all those who have helped me get this far, couldn't done it without you guys.









Having said that if I hadn't come across this forum and your build threads, I wouldn't have gone much further than a 007 dv and a remap, so it's (collectively)all your fault :beerchug:
 
gald its all good.
Ditch the 007 valve and get the mad max you know it makes sense.