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  1. #41
    666markyboy's Avatar
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    I fixed my own... but then i'm an Aircraft Systems Fitter by trade so complicated mechanism's are right up my street so to say :o)
    1999 A3 Quattro 1.8T Pics >>HERE
    2002 A4 Avant quattro 1.9 TDi

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  3. #42
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    ben

    hi there guys ive recently just registered..

    ive just changed the old pedal to a new 1 does any 1 no wat the little black clip is for??? and it still crunches geting into gear dont think its the clutch... could be cylinder any ideas please would be great cheers Ben

  4. #43
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    if i can remember rightly the little black clip went over part of the pedal which came into contact with some little switch.

  5. #44
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    Funny this.. i have this problem on and off..

    2 weeks ago in france - really cold day, set off, fine, then a minute later, changed into 3rd and pedal stuck to floor. Thought i was screwed, so pulled over and played witht he gear stick etc. About 3 minutes later, the clutch jsut let itself back up and we were off again.. didnt happen until New Years Day at a petrol station (having covered almost 1400 miles since the previous situation) where i was pulling away and the clutch stuck down again. This time the problem was with me for about 30 mins, and after calling the RAC out i leant down and simply pulled the clutch pedal up and lo and behold it fixed the issue. I then cancelled the RAC call out, drove home and have covered a couple of hundred miles since.. no problems.. i am told it is a cable slipping.. weird if you ask me...

  6. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain420 View Post
    Funny this.. i have this problem on and off..

    2 weeks ago in france - really cold day, set off, fine, then a minute later, changed into 3rd and pedal stuck to floor. Thought i was screwed, so pulled over and played witht he gear stick etc. About 3 minutes later, the clutch jsut let itself back up and we were off again.. didnt happen until New Years Day at a petrol station (having covered almost 1400 miles since the previous situation) where i was pulling away and the clutch stuck down again. This time the problem was with me for about 30 mins, and after calling the RAC out i leant down and simply pulled the clutch pedal up and lo and behold it fixed the issue. I then cancelled the RAC call out, drove home and have covered a couple of hundred miles since.. no problems.. i am told it is a cable slipping.. weird if you ask me...
    certainly no expert, but could this be the slave cylinder? Very common, and unfortunately, expensive prob on S3s.

  7. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by bantam1 View Post
    certainly no expert, but could this be the slave cylinder? Very common, and unfortunately, expensive prob on S3s.

    i got a 1.8T, so there is hope i suppose.

  8. #47
    StevoS3's Avatar
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    is this the bit of plastic ur talking about?

    Last edited by StevoS3; 2nd December 2009 at 20:08.

  9. #48
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    It is the master cylinder, I had the same issue, they have been revised from Audi as they look different in the mechanism, it is quite common, it happened to me 2 years ago, and replaced everything together, Audi quoted 370 for parts and labour, I got my mechanic to do everything for 70 and paid just over 60 for parts all in around 130 . Requires some access under the bonnet though and a bit fiddly
    S3-8L REVO stage 2, Milltek, 3" DP & custom 3" decat, RS2 spark plugs, 4 bar FPR, Green-Cotton uprated upper/lower boost hose & TIP, Front Zimmerman & Ferrodo. LCR spliter. boost gauge, smoothed AB. Aero blades, H&R 5mm spacers. Best time 14.03sec, 0-62 in 5.7sec. 207gs @ 25psi , polished inlet mani. VAGCOM 805.1

  10. #49
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    just had my dam clutch pedal go on me too., weld gone and plenty of plastic bits in the footwell, had to be towed home ,passing van driver gaveme a tow ,nice of him so pint on the way for him.

    Any ideas on cost of pedal and plastic bits now as i see this is old post. getting car towed to garage tomorrow hopefully .


  11. #50
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    Gaah this happened to me today! Was in Bristol when it happened and got towed back to Oxford! Typical only got the car back yesterday after the fuel pump went on tuesday!
    Jester
    "On my second S3 and loving it. RS3 here I come!!!"

  12. #51
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    My clutch pedal went down and stayed down a couple of weeks ago; whilst on my drive. I came on here and was quite uplifted after reading this thread; so out I went into the snow and rain thinking I was going to fix it in around an hour. After contorting myself into positions not assumed since my teens and struggling for a while I managed to remove the pedal only to find it intact. Ever hopeful I tried to remove the master cylinder, after a couple of hours I gave up and decided it was for someone younger and more agile than I, with more slender hands. A ex-mechanic mate called round, after a while, he too gave up.

    I phoned another mate who works for an auto-recovery firm, he told me it was the slave cylinder, a gearbox out job and that he'd do it for me, he turned up, took the car, told me it would be 190 for the parts (new master cyl., slave cyl., clutch and pressure plate) and 150 labour, then he brought it back a couple of days later.

    Jobs a good 'un, think it worked out a bargain.

  13. #52
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    Definetely a good deal there. Removing the box is not a straightforward job. Nice to hear a succes story and not costing a fortune. A bargain you have had there, well done.

  14. #53
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    anyone know the part number for the black plastic thing on the back of the clutch pedal that the clutch switch presses against?

  15. #54
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    This just happened to me. Got new parts for a tenner off a scrapped a3. But im having real trouble putting it all back together. Cant get the spring to fit when the pedal is all up? Tried unbolting metal bracket but its all still connect somehow. Surely its not as complicated as this? Anyone live local to Kettering that could give us a hand!? Cheers, steve

  16. #55
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    Mate that spring is a mare. Here's how to do it.....

    Compress spring & cable tie (with a strong tie),
    Remove clutch stop on the floor,
    Get someone to de-press pedal all the way down,
    Lose the bolts to the bracket,
    She should just about glide in then
    Cut the tie & pull the broken cable tie out.

    HTH.
    Daz
    Audi A3 Quattro Sport 180bhp

    Pic's comimng soon !

  17. #56
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    Cheers mate. Will do that today. Im praying the one i got from the scrapyard off another 8L dont go again in near furure. Jeeeeeeeez!

  18. #57
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    Just happened to me, F-ing pain in the gluteus to get it home, traffic lights are not cool! Called the RAC he's off getting the parts now, he's confident he can fix it. I will post up if he manages to solve the problem.

  19. #58
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    So i managed to use my grandma's vice to push down the spring! Cable tied it, now just gotta re assemble everything and cut ties then hopefully all done! What a real pain in the ass :-/

  20. #59
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    Bringing an old thread back to life ...

    Driving home to Chester from South Wales today - clutch pedal to the went to the floor with the 2 pieces of broken plastic and a small broken piece of metal on the floor by my feet. Hopefully Chester Audi have the bits in stock - I attempted a roadside fix by taking off the dash surround and pushing the white retaining clip back in the slot - didn't work at all, so had a nice 2 hour ride on a flatbed truck in the sun !

    Have Audi ever said anything about the flaw in the design of the clutch pedal ? In hindsight, I wish I had taken the pedal off and run some more weld around the bracket joint - seems a bit naff.

  21. #60
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    Hey guys,

    I thought I would post in this thread instead of starting another one even though its a bit old. I just had the clutch pedal issue and I've reinstalled everything only issue is when changing gears, it will continue to rev for about a second and then the revs will drop down also cruise control is no longer working! I'm assuming that these have got to do with the clutch switch but I'm not entirely sure why.

    Does this problem sent off a fault code that will have to be cleared and then it will work properly or is it a messed up clutch switch? Also does the switch screw into the top or bottom hole on the pedal box as there is the two holes.

  22. #61
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    Exclamation

    First would like to say hi as this is my first post, I thought seen as you guys helped with my car that had just done this exact same thing. I would return with a full guide to this repair which is VERY easy doing it this way. The hardest bit was getting the rubber clutch pedal cover off and on

    So here is what you most likely found in your foot well which led you here from Google.



    Clutch pedal stuck to the floor plastic parts and metal part in foot well are as follow.
    1) 2x White Plastic parts (that holds the piston (Gold coloured arm from bulk head)) from the same piece.
    Image Code: (G)
    MOUNTING - Part No: W1H0 721 3S7 - 0.70
    2) 2x Black Plastic parts (that is the stop for the clutch switch) from the same piece.
    Image Code: (H)
    STOPFORSWITCH - Part No: W1J2 721 332 A - 2.04
    3) 1x Black Metal part (The stop that supports the pressure of the clutch (back of white part))
    Image Code: (I)
    PEDAL CLUTCH - Part No: W1J2 721 319 C - 21.68

    Total Inc VAT: 28.69
    This can be ordered/ collected from Audi OR VW!!


    Removal:
    1) Remove the fuse cover and unscrew the 4 hex screws running down the curve.
    2) Unscrew 1 hex from left bottom of the front of the bottom panel.
    3) Unscrew 1 hex from left tray where service book / manual place its on the top.
    4) Unscrew 1 hex from right tray where small place to put sunglasses or what ever. its on the top.
    5) Pull panel towards you the top is clipped.
    6) Remove Cables from light switch unit. Store panel somewhere safe.
    7) You will now see the clutch pedal, there is a 13mm bolt and nut (Z) so you will need to have 2 spanners to do this un do this bolt and pull the clutch pedal off the floor wiggle the bolt out until you hit the steering column.
    8) With your finger push the white plastic bit attached to the spring (X) until it releases from the pedal making it go limp. be careful but it isnt under much pressure at this position.
    9) Now move the steering column to allow the bolt to come out.
    10) Remove the pedal and prepare to refit the new one.
    11) Remove the rubber clutch pedal cover use a small flat head screwdriver to unclip the corners.
    12) Remove the clutch switch by simply turning it till it comes out. (T)

    Refitting.
    1) DO NOT FIT THE BACK PLASTIC STOP (U)!
    2) Fit the white plastic part into the new pedal (Y). It will go either way up.
    3) Refit the rubber clutch cover to the new pedal.
    4) Refit the pedal two great tips here,
    a) Make sure the GOLD piston bit (W) is to the left as you look at it from the driving position as you slide the new pedal into place.
    b) Put the bolt in from the other side then you dont need to worry about steering column.
    Slide the bolt through and put the nut on do not do it up tight yet!
    5) Pull the clutch pedal towards you and a little to the left you will see there is a nice little slot for it to sit in, this will hold it there making life easier and give you some more room to get that spring in, this is why we didnt fit the black stop and removed the switch!!
    6) Place the spring back into the slot at the back of the unit above the piston part (S).
    7) Push with your finger the white bit(X) on to the pedal this is VERY easy!!
    8) With a GOOD pair of pliers or better still mol grips clamp the clutch piston rod at the bulkhead to stop it moving.
    9) Guide the piston into the white clip and push down hard on the pedal until it clicks in.
    10) Remove the pliers.
    11) Now fit the new black plastic stop to the pedal.(U)
    12) Refit the clutch switch.(T)
    13) Tighten the 13mm nut and bolt.
    14) Refit panel

    TEST AND ENJOY!!


    If you follow this to the word it should have taken you more time to read this than to do it

    It took me 25mins with a smoke break and in the dark 9:30pm today.
    IN THE SNOW!! and COLD

    Have a great Christmas
    Hope this helps someone

    Pete
    Last edited by S3PDX; 24th December 2010 at 00:19.

  23. #62
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    Post #61 above is the best guide I was able to find but on refitting points 4a and 5 should read "right" and not "left", point 8 should definitely use a good pair of mole grips and something to jam them up against the bulkhead as it's quit difficult to get the rod to go into the white clip.
    Also it is worth using a couple of cable ties to compress the spring a bit before fitting as discussed previously in the thread.

  24. #63
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    One hour that's good going ! It took me 3
    ,all put back together and my pedal is very loose it moves
    Side to side
    Any ideas ?is the cylinder part that clips into the white clip
    Suppose to be slightly bent and does the spring just fall out when you take the pedal out ??

  25. #64
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    Thread resurrection! Had this happen to me tonight, presume the part numbers in post 5 are what I need?

    1H0721357 - mounting
    1J2721332A - stop

    Anyone have a part number for the clutch pedal as well as guessing I will need to change that too? And are these parts the same as mk4 golfs? Only a vw dealer is 5 min cycle away as opposed to 1hr bus journey to get to an Audi dealer!

    Cheers,
    Jackson

  26. #65
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    I can't confirm if parts are the same between the Golf and the Audi but I think they are.

    You don't need a new pedal it's just a rubber pad that can be swapped over.

    When you swap the pedal arm, make sure you swap the little collar that sits in the pivot hole otherwise your pedal will wobble from side to side.
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  27. #66
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    Cheers Westy.

    Managed to have a quick look this morning before work, got the bottom dash trim off and was met by the main offender;



    1J2721332A

    Had a look up at the pedal, luckily the master cylinder pushrod doesn't look bent which can sometimes happen.

    This is how it looks pedal-wise (sorry for crappy iphone photo)



    How is the black clip supposed to sit? And it looks as though the white clip is still in position, so do I only need the broken black clip? If so, hoping this can be a pedal on job!

    Cheers for the help as always,
    Jackson

  28. #67
    Westy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackson_a3 View Post
    Cheers Westy.

    Managed to have a quick look this morning before work, got the bottom dash trim off and was met by the main offender;



    1J2721332A

    Had a look up at the pedal, luckily the master cylinder pushrod doesn't look bent which can sometimes happen.

    This is how it looks pedal-wise (sorry for crappy iphone photo)



    How is the black clip supposed to sit? And it looks as though the white clip is still in position, so do I only need the broken black clip? If so, hoping this can be a pedal on job!

    Cheers for the help as always,
    Jackson
    Have a closer look mate. That black clip pictured doesn't do anything other then act as a bump stop on the back of the padal. The white clip on the MC rod should clip into the back of the pedal. I'm sure you will find that the metal box section on the rear of the pedal where the white clip goes has broken.
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  29. #68
    Alex C's Avatar
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    this happened to me Wednesday after work, its in the garage now being fixed....very very common as far as i can see. The metal bracket bit snapped on mine - new clutch pedal
    Alex S3 AMK
    Bilstein B8s, H&R Springs, Neuspeed ARBs, Genuine 18" BBS LMs & LCR Brembos

  30. #69
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    Westy you were right - metal part of the pedal had snapped as it seems is usual.

    Got all the parts from VW and they are the same as Audi - £25.31 in total.

    1st problem - how the hell do I get the white clip onto the end of the MC rod!? I have pushed and pulled and tried forever to get the clip over the ball on the end, succeeding only in getting very sore fingers and various cuts. I also knw getting the spring back in is going to be a nightmare, but we will worry about that when we get to it!

    Help please!!

  31. #70
    Westy's Avatar
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    Mate I've done 2 pedal changes now and they don't get easier trust me! The white clip needs some serious brute force to get it on but I found a set of long nose pliers was best to press the clip and ball together.

    The spring is a pita. Audi/VW mechs have a special tool that clamps the spring and allows you to put it in place. Looks like a big pair of curly tongs. Anyway I pressed the spring against a wall by hand and used 2 cable ties, 1 each side to clamp the bugger. Once you have the spring in place snip the cable ties and pull them out.

    Did you make sure you swapped to little collar bits from your old pedal? They are little inserts into the hole where the pivot bar goes through.
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  32. #71
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    Cheers mate, not going to be able to look at it until Sunday now but it at least gives me something to try then!

    Yes I swapped the collars, and bolted the pedal up just to be sure and no wobble.

    Bring on lots of loud swearing and sore fingers come Sunday!!

    Cheers for the advice,
    Jackson

  33. #72
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    OK! I'm about 8 years late again for this thread, hoping someone'll answer. Had same prob, housing bracket shattered pedal to floor and bits of plastic on the floor - got it welded and replaced the pedal myself. Spring was put in a vice & cable tied, inserted into position & released. Only prob now is: On start up its really, really hard to get into gear (impossible sometimes) pump the peddle and it gets better (not great, but driveable). Drive for next 5 miles is notchy gear change & pedal hard to floor. When cars warmed up changes are back to normal. Is it clutch fluid pressure? should I bleed? Could there be seal damage on slave cylinder? I think the push rod was a little bent too Cheers in advance

  34. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe27 View Post
    OK! I'm about 8 years late again for this thread, hoping someone'll answer. Had same prob, housing bracket shattered pedal to floor and bits of plastic on the floor - got it welded and replaced the pedal myself. Spring was put in a vice & cable tied, inserted into position & released. Only prob now is: On start up its really, really hard to get into gear (impossible sometimes) pump the peddle and it gets better (not great, but driveable). Drive for next 5 miles is notchy gear change & pedal hard to floor. When cars warmed up changes are back to normal. Is it clutch fluid pressure? should I bleed? Could there be seal damage on slave cylinder? I think the push rod was a little bent too Cheers in advance
    Forgot to say: brake reservoir level is OK But I did notice that the white plastic housing didn't 'sit' completely into the metal housing (weld spatter couldn't be filed flat inside the metal housing).

 

 
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