Track car issues - help required

S3 TAM

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Morning All,

As some of you know me and bigcheese have been working on a track car this past year.
It’s a Seat Ibiza Cupra. It’s finally back together but having a couple of issue’s at the min and need some assistance.

On a test drive it was boosting fine, all of a sudden boost drops off. Running on actuator 5 PSI.
Thought not a problem N75 died, limped home replaced N75 with new one still no joy. Scanned with VC. Fault code N75 related. So we checked the wiring and found a small split in the plastic coating near the N75 connecter.:sob:

1. Would this be enough to cause issues?

The split is too close to the connecter to repair so I will need to source a new connecter.
I noticed the EVAP canister connecter is the same so I’m thinking to cut the connector from there are replace with a resistor.

What do you guys think? Is this gonna be ok or should we get a connecter from somewhere else.

On to the next issue BRAKES…..

We replaced discs and pad’s all round, removed all the callipers and changed brake lines.
We have to replace one of the HARD brake lines from the ABS unit as we f***d it up when trying to remove the old lines.

We bled the system flushed about 2Ltr of fluid through but the pedal is real soft /spongy.

Do we have to bleed the abs unit? If so how do I do it with vag com? Whats the process?


Cheers in advance....
 
Alright mate hows it going ;)

The n75 wiring could be at fault if it's managing to short to ground or across the two cores? Also a possibility could be you've got a broken core somewhere?
Pending what ecu you've got could be MAF related as Jay was having on off boost issues which turned out to be his MAF failing?

With the brakes I had a simular issue when had the rear Calipers off and managed to drain most of the fluid in the system, I did have to use a pressure bleeder as well as pumping the pedal (slowly) as managed to get air in there, it took me 3-4 attempts at bleeding it over a couple of months (as well as a garage for my own sanity) after it had been done it would be alright and gradually get worse which always seemed after the abs cutting in, knowing what I know now would have used vagcom to bleed the abs pump but at the time didn't know to much and hadn't discovered this forum :)
 
pressure bleed until it works.. it can take a few goes.

boost/n75 can be cycled from vagcom... ty that and listen for clicking. its under engine and output tests
 
I had the same boost issues Tam, N75 intermittent fault code. All looked well.

On stripping the wiring back, it had cracked and parted, yet under normal conditions the ends touched and contact was made and we had boost. Under full throttle the vibration / engine movement was just enough to pull the wires and lose touch. No boost.

Have you bled the master cylinder as well for the brakes?

By big cheese, do you mean Westy?
 
oh right, ACTUAL big cheese!

You know, I just thought you were the big cheese around those parts westicles....
 
Again cheers for the input guys.

Might seem silly to some but where is the bleed nipple for the master cylinder. Ive had a look around and cant see it on there. When it came to topping up the fluid there was none in there.
 
Again cheers for the input guys.

Might seem silly to some but where is the bleed nipple for the master cylinder. Ive had a look around and cant see it on there. When it came to topping up the fluid there was none in there.
its in there somewhere tam, 2 nipples, they are fairly tucked away and an **** to get to.
ooo, hang on, its an ibiza, hmmmm.
 
Ok

Ecu is now clear of faults.

Still running on actuator......

Rewired N75 seems to be working via vagcom.

Did lots of logging. Noticed 12 degrees on all 4 as soon as u touched the pedal. Knock sensor was loose. There was a code for that. Now clear.

At a bit of a loss as there are no codes now to diagnose the issue. seems to be running better but still only 4-5 psi.

Forgot to bring the logs to work!

Anyone got any ideas. Could the turbo be shagged?

Its running ko3s stage 1, intercooler, 008p, full turbo back milltek, ie rods and so on....

Bhp 156
Ftlb 163

Stats via block 115 last night.


Edit MAF seems ok as well.
 
Tam, do you get a code by running the car with the N75 unplugged? It definitely sounds like the N75 is completely dead now. I cant think of any other reason why it would only run on actuator when is was able to boost more before you fiddled with the N75 :think:
 
Rewired it last night. Seems to work when u do output tests. We have 2 brand new N75's. but the fault codes have gone now.

Its strange it feels like the remap has disappear because the car seems to run fine. Just lack of boost.

I thought that the ecu was fried but it seems to work ok when using vagcom.
 
Heres a few pics


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348645317131583

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348645402956451

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348645427267932
 
You've definitely got the N75 pipework the right way round? If you unplug the N75 and start the car you should get a VCDS code about it. Be nice to see if this is still actually registering.

Just trying to throw some ideas out there.
 
Rewired it last night. Seems to work when u do output tests. We have 2 brand new N75's. but the fault codes have gone now.

Its strange it feels like the remap has disappear because the car seems to run fine. Just lack of boost.

I thought that the ecu was fried but it seems to work ok when using vagcom.

what map is on the car?
 
The car was bought with a remapped ecu.

looking through the receipts this place did it The Phirm they do revo maps but it does not specify what remap was done!!! just stage 1.
 
Success

We have boost.

We did the following...

  • removed boost hoses and refitted
  • removed and cleaned MAF
  • swap the connector from the evap canister to the N75 valve. i.e. rewired both.
  • removed and reseated ecu connectors
  • unplugged and re-plugged any connector visible from lambda to AIT sensor.
not sure what cured it...

Don't think it has a Revo map on it as changing settings didn't change boost/performance.

Did notice it is pulling lots of timing check out the logs/graphs

115121020.jpg



BHP.jpg



psi.jpg
 
Good work bud. Late night mechanics FTW.

That is some mad timing pull! Also the "actual" boost is doing strange things! Up and down like a tarts draws! Think Pete needs to get it remapped.
 
I know the actual boost is mental.

not really sure what to do about the timing pull as unable to change anything because its not a Revo map.

has anyone got any ideas.

could I change the degrees in unisettings or is that not advisable?
 
You could scale down the boost in unisettings. Remember I had to do that to my car once the new K04 was fitted? Should hopefully bring the timing down a bit. Other alternative is to run on actuator pressure till its remapped.
 
Someone is selling a revo mapped ECU from another seat ibiza cupra.

if bigcheesey gets it will it be a straight swap. i.e. don't have to worry about immobilizer?

or will it have to be recoded if so is it poss with vag com
 
Someone is selling a revo mapped ECU from another seat ibiza cupra.

if bigcheesey gets it will it be a straight swap. i.e. don't have to worry about immobilizer?

or will it have to be recoded if so is it poss with vag com

If it's wired up the same way as Audi's, which I presume it is, then it's not a straight forward swop, the immobiliser would be a stumbling block.
 
yep your both right just been reading about it.

basically it's cheaper to go and get a new map i.e. revo/bill

with out the correct gear and knowledge £££££££
 
Someone is selling a revo mapped ECU from another seat ibiza cupra.

if bigcheesey gets it will it be a straight swap. i.e. don't have to worry about immobilizer?

or will it have to be recoded if so is it poss with vag com

ibiza just needs to be coded to clocks in vagcom
simple 2min job
 

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