NEW S3 Owner - Few issues.

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MarkyS3

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Hi Guys,

Just bought my first S3 for silly money aswell £1450 lol, tax and mot......runs well apart from issues listed below will try get vagcom on it, anyone local to Bristol able to come round for a drink ;)

Boosts fine dump valve sounds normal but if you boot it through a few gears it starts to hesitate and eventually go on to 3 cylinders, im guessing its a coilpack breaking down, turn off restart its perfect.
Exhaust blowing sounds like from manifold but could be misleading and coming up from flexi.
Coolant leak from the coolant hose that runs up from right side of engine into bulkhead (heater matrix) i would imagine, are they hoses hard to get off from engine bay???

Anyway the simple but bad bits out the way this is the spec:

Let me tell you its SHOWROOM condition......

Factory Xenons
Alpine CD Player
Heated Leather Recaros
e/w
e/m
Usual S3 Refinements
Climate Control
Front Mount Intercooler
Exhaust
Remap - Dont believe it, not quick enough.
Recirc Dump Valve
R32 Brakes
18'' RS4 Alloys
Koni Fully Adjustable Suspension
Uprated Bushes etc
German Plates
Cupra Front Lip
Raised Bonnet
Black Grilles

Pics:
308161_10151019907441920_1887370830_n_zpsda7560b9.jpg

50525a8a801bd_1_zpsceb476e9.jpg

50525a8a84423_1_zps3c8386e8.jpg


Cheers
 
nice and welcome to S3 ownership if its your first one... as with any used car i buy i just go out of my way and do a full service change the coil pack sparkplugs cambelt water pump...and since its been comming up allot id change the oil pump and pipe with an engine/ box oil change.. im sure you'll feel it better
 
audi upgrades
Yes thanks guys, there is a Gates Sticker on Cambelt Cover saying it was changed at 93000 miles and 17-06-2012 and on 95000 now so will leave that.....

Will get it on Vagcom anyone local to Bristol have it?
 
Oh yes, just trying to determine if it is mapped for 98 fuel as i put 95 fuel in maybe thats why its cutting on full boost......will try a tank of v-power next. If its still doing it vagcom it and probs a coilpack.
 
Also it has a manual fan override switch in car, anyone heard of this????
 
from the way its been modded i would be very surprised if it hadnt been mapped already
 
vrbob said:
from the way its been modded i would be very surprised if it hadnt been mapped already
Click to expand...

I agree but do you think fuel could be causing this hesitation then dropping to 3 cylinders???? Fine is you drive it slow just under full throttle.

Gets better NewReg are buying the numberplate off me for £500 so car owes me £950 haha
 
marka3130 said:
I agree but do you think fuel could be causing this hesitation then dropping to 3 cylinders???? Fine is you drive it slow just under full throttle.

Gets better NewReg are buying the numberplate off me for £500 so car owes me £950 haha
Click to expand...

A modded S3 for less than a grand thats a steal mate (have you checked it for finance etc?)

When coilpacks go they usually just die in my experience and it sounds like a tractor. A VCDS scan would help you diagnose any isssues and point oyu in the right direction.
 
vrbob said:
A modded S3 for less than a grand thats a steal mate (have you checked it for finance etc?)

When coilpacks go they usually just die in my experience and it sounds like a tractor. A VCDS scan would help you diagnose any isssues and point oyu in the right direction.
Click to expand...

Yeh thats what i thought, done HPi all clear. Will get it plugged in then, may just be the map is for high octane fuel and im using 95.
 
yup pretty much all S3`s run 98octane fuel plus i find using shell v power i get about 30miles more to a tank than standard fuel so it works out about the same price per mile

Well an HPI clear nicely modded S3 for £950 i think you need to buy a lottery ticket cos with your luck your bound to win :)
 
Ahh right so even standard S3's have had similar issues on crap 95 fuel??? would it cause it to goto 3 cylinders until i switch car on and off??

Im going to upload some engine bay pics as i have a few questions as to why it has a manual override switch for fan also do heater matrix's sit up by bulkhead or down behind dash as i have coolant dripping of the pipe i will upload now, the one that goes upto bulkhead.

What is this??? The silver unit inline on coolant hose?

DSC_0138_zps374f0b74.jpg


Also is this hose hard to get off?? as its so tight upto bulkhead

DSC_0139_zps27000d1f.jpg

DSC_0140_zpse3278973.jpg
 
heater matrix is in the dash and a right b1tch to access.

95 fuel wont make it run on 3 cylinders but these cars are meant for 98 it says so inside the fuel filler if i remember rightly.
 
vrbob said:
heater matrix is in the dash and a right b1tch to access.

95 fuel wont make it run on 3 cylinders but these cars are meant for 98 it says so inside the fuel filler if i remember rightly.
Click to expand...

What im saying is coolant leaking from pipe on right of block under red pipe in pic i uploaded would it be a split pipe or coming from heater matrix and running down pipe?

Yeh its weird 3/4's throttle its fine then on full throttle only sometimes it starts hesitating then sometimes drops onto 3 cylinders, altho it only did the 3 cylinder thing when i had MAF unplugged.
 
thats the coolent temp sensor under the red pipe. you pull a little u shaped palstic clip out and then you can remove the sensor. The have an o ring around them so yours might be work or fitted badly and leaking. wait for the engine to be cold and you can remove the CTS without losing any coolant and check out the o ring etc.
 
No the coolant is dripping off the main hose that runs upto the heater matrix?
 
Think you may need to do a bit more investigation or wait for a more experienced member on here (paging Tuffty!) to help answer your questions
 
Ok you messaging him for me or you mean i should message him? lol
 
audi upgrades
Thanks Dave as i look at it more im still thinking its that pipe BUT there are 3 holes on head just back from coolant sensor and those 3 holes always seem to be wet with coolant unless its blowing back there?? Weird. Im getting worried now, ive driven it 300 miles so if it was a cracked head im sure it would of died by now.
 
marka3130 said:
Also it has a manual fan override switch in car, anyone heard of this????
Click to expand...

No such thing on a std car... looks like thats been added for some reason...

marka3130 said:
What is this??? The silver unit inline on coolant hose?

DSC_0138_zps374f0b74.jpg
Click to expand...

Somebody has plumbed in either a water temp gauge (unlikely) or given the 'manual fan override' switch have plumbed in an after market fan or something possibly to cure an over heating problem of fix a fan controller issue or something... difficult to say without seeing the car...


marka3130 said:
Also is this hose hard to get off?? as its so tight upto bulkhead

DSC_0139_zps27000d1f.jpg

DSC_0140_zpse3278973.jpg
Click to expand...

Which hose are you referring too?? the red hose looks like its the return to the expansion tank... that will be connected to an outlet on top of a plastic joiner...

I can see why it was cheap... somebody has been playing with this one... and your dump valve is the wrong way round :)

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks for info Tuffty, its the hose under red one that runs upto heater matrix.
Also what do i need to do with DV? could this be why there is hesitation on full throttle?
 
Turned DV round cant hear it at all really but seems a tad more alive.
 
Fitting the DV the wrong way around means the larger surface area of the piston gets exposed to boost and the boost holds it open longer (lag) and can also push it open enough to give a small boost leak...

People 'think' they sound louder when fitted the wrong way but in actual fact it just hurts performance...

The connectors on the heater matrix use a bayonet connection and use an o-ring to seal... if its been played with then it could be leaking...

<tuffty/>
 
marka3130 said:
Hi Guys,

Just bought my first S3 for silly money aswell £1450 lol, tax and mot......runs well apart from issues listed below will try get vagcom on it, anyone local to Bristol able to come round for a drink ;)
Click to expand...

My advice would be to call Bill up at Badger 5 and get it booked in for a look over and see what the issues are mate.
 
Thanks guys, how much do you think badger would charge to have a look at problems?
 
how the hell is that plate worth 500 notes? I cant see anything special about it? Might have to see if they'll buy mine off me....
 
<tuffty/> said:
Fitting the DV the wrong way around means the larger surface area of the piston gets exposed to boost and the boost holds it open longer (lag) and can also push it open enough to give a small boost leak...

People 'think' they sound louder when fitted the wrong way but in actual fact it just hurts performance...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

when i got my car back from R-tech my dv was the wrong was round and i asked niki about it and he said its sound, it works like that now opening on vacuum, i have a cold side relocation kit. with it the correct way niki said i caused a pressure drop. i always did think it caused problems. i just listened to niki though as he knows what hes on about lol could you confirm this?
 
humm... dunno... maybe Niki's experiences with the setups he sees varies from the ones I have seen but valves like the 007p are tunable and you can shim them up as well as use differnt springs... maybe he set it up like that but they are designed to be run so boost is in the chamber of the valve rather than pushing against the piston... its simple physics and any I have seen have performed better the correct way than **** about face...

Not gonna say he is wrong in context of your setup but for me there would need to be a compelling reason to fit it the wrong way and in my (limited) experience I haven't come across one as yet...

I use a Forge supersize valve and up until recently ran the stiffest spring they do (white)... I have recently changed to a red spring and 2 x shims... response is better and I am not getting the occasionally compressor stall I had before...

<tuffty/>
 
humm... dunno... maybe Niki's experiences with the setups he sees varies from the ones I have seen but valves like the 007p are tunable and you can shim them up as well as use differnt springs... maybe he set it up like that but they are designed to be run so boost is in the chamber of the valve rather than pushing against the piston... its simple physics and any I have seen have performed better the correct way than **** about face...

Not gonna say he is wrong in context of your setup but for me there would need to be a compelling reason to fit it the wrong way and in my (limited) experience I haven't come across one as yet...

I use a Forge supersize valve and up until recently ran the stiffest spring they do (white)... I have recently changed to a red spring and 2 x shims... response is better and I am not getting the occasionally compressor stall I had before...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Im running a stiffer spring than before, niki said its down to it causing a pressure drop when on boost or some other technical thing that you would understand because your super human.

on gear change it is pretty loud and it does sound like its dumping twice but I get no flutter (compressor stall?) He did say trust me its all good so its got to be I guess.
 
Car is in m garage now as manifold is blowing very bad so much so it seems turbo isn't even boosting now. Wont cost me too much as he sponsors my rallying so doing it for a good price.
 
Dont mind spending some money on it as i got it very cheap.
 
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