hi all. ive got a aug 1.8t a3 i want more power and boost (im currently boosting 4-6 psi). ive seen this on ebay Remap Chip Tuning for 1.8T Audi A3, VW Golf GTI with engine code AGU 200ps | eBay . is this a good idea it would only be temp as im looking to add things such as fmic etc usaul mods. my friends a jap car fan and a mechanic he said something called DET may happen if i stick this on and i can say good bye to my engine but not ever working or having any intrest in german cars it could be diffrent. what do you guys think? thanks
good or bad idea?
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phil miller
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avoid like the CLAP mate, no history to this seller, you could very well **** your car with it, get it mapped by a recommended company
Thanks mate I will. I know there's proberly already a post on here. But who's got a remapped agu engine and what ones good. I know it's down to personal preference but I'd like to know what people think?
phil miller
Registered User
im gonna get mine done at R tech, ive had both my mk5 golf TDIs remapped, one at viezu in bromsgrove (very good imho) and the other done bu Chris at CC tuning in Burton, who also done a spot on job
I had My S3 mapped by Celtic tuning when I first got it and hey presto bang went the engine. Mapped way way beyond the turbo capability so the morale of this story is go to a recommended company if not be prepare to dig deep in your pockets to fix your engine.
If I where you I would go and see Bill@Badger5 the drive is worth it.
If I where you I would go and see Bill@Badger5 the drive is worth it.
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I think its unfair to blame a tuning company Dan,the cars are quite old now and generally a remap will only highlight issues going on with the car,the basic stuff like changing the dv and maybe the hoses should be done before mapping.
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I sure did All I got was a new turbo but they can even do that right cross Threaded a manifold bolt didn't do the water pipe up so I leaked all over the gearbox and didn't do the propshaft bolts very well had a new clutch 2 months later and one of the bolts was missing.
To be fair, that blokes probably getting his chips from the same people that did all the early Custom Code/whoever else chip work. Live mapping is where it's at, and there's only one person in the country I'd have map my car. Niki 
ECU Remapping, Performance Engine Tuning, R-tech
Just for reference you have either an AUM, or an AGU. Not an AUG.
ECU Remapping, Performance Engine Tuning, R-techJust for reference you have either an AUM, or an AGU. Not an AUG.
Have to agree with Jardo, seems weird saying that, but I wouldn't give my car to anyone but R-tech
Thanks guys. I have changed the hoses for silicon ones mainly just the small pipes on the Bosch DV and a vacuum hose which I never realised had a massive hole in, the difference now that's fixed is amazing she really picks up. I'm also ordering a new dv on Monday.
007p ya'?
Have you checked the hoses under the inlet manifold, on the right hand side? They ALWAYS split and fall off.
I have an AGU and had it remapped at r-tech yesterday, I have 3" downpipe and decat, forge 007p DV, jetex cone filter, silicone tip, silicone turbo outlet pipe, changed the two pipes under the manifold to silicone as mine were split, but rtech have given me a really nice car back with 187bhp and 225.2 ft, great bunch of guys
Was thinking about 007p. Did you guys buy direct from forge or eBay?. Also does anyone know if the agu engines have just forged crank or do they have forged pistons as well I've seen a few posts about on other websites all claming something different?. As for the hoses I have one fell off once I repaired this I noticed the other biggish vacuum hose had a massive split in Audi wanted £50 for the hose my mate had some white silicon hose he used on his skyline that was the correct diameter so repaired for free
where are you based? There's a few company about, rtech being will known for our engines. There are based in Leceister. Is that close by?
I agree with Jardo about checking the pipes under the inlet manni as I had a split there too, plus with the age of our cars now the rubber has gone soft and started to mould.
i am located in hampshire so they may be a way away however they sound like they are worth the trip. are there silicon hose kits for the agu engine?
phil miller
Registered User
yeah you can get silicone hose kits for the AGU or you can buy the hoses seperate if that suits you better, on my mk5 golf i had the hoses made by roose motorsport, take a look on ebay dude
All my friends and I travel up from Plymouth; four hours each way.
As I said though, wouldn't let anybody else touch my mapping
Get the 007p off ebay, shouldn't pay more than £70. You might want to save a bit of cash and understand how it works and buy a used one and a rebuild kit.
As I said though, wouldn't let anybody else touch my mapping
Get the 007p off ebay, shouldn't pay more than £70. You might want to save a bit of cash and understand how it works and buy a used one and a rebuild kit.
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If your only getting 5psi then its currently broken. Fix the fault before trying to get more power!
Im only getting 4 sometimes 6 psi and as far as I can tell there's no more leaks the difference on the way it pulls now I've fixed the broken hoses is amazing so maybe it is the dv I'm also getting flutter. Something I've read is a sign of broken dv
5-6PSI is totally normal for a stock car, no need to look any further into that IMO. 7-8PSI would be high but reasonable and 8-10PSI would be over boosting (probably suggest a boost leak if a stock car was producing those figures.)
If you've fixed boost leaks and it is running better than I'd say that's alright.
If you've fixed boost leaks and it is running better than I'd say that's alright.
So that's normal then 4-6 psi. Also does any one know about what's forged in the agu engine as standard?
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4/5psi is actautor pressure.
Most 150hp 1.8T's run around 8 and most 180's run 10-12.
Could be an iffy boost guage i guess, check with vagcom logs.
Most 150hp 1.8T's run around 8 and most 180's run 10-12.
Could be an iffy boost guage i guess, check with vagcom logs.
Excuse me for sounding rather dumb but vag com logs how would I go about that is it something I can do my self or a garage I've been on google and so far only seen how to read it.
Thankyou very much sir you are a legend this has made me happy I'm presuming that i will still need to forge the piston rods etc?.
Depends on the spec you want to go for; there is no safe/not safe limit for engines. However with an AGU you are internally at a benefit from an AUM due to the large port head allowing better flow and the larger gudgeon pins on the little ends. For a K03 fitment turbo you will not need to do any internal modifications; for me a K03s can offer more than enough for an A3.
In my opinion (which is not shared by everybody, but who cares because I'm right) a good stage 2 A3 is as good as it gets. A safe and reliable 240bhp in a fairly decent FWD chassis.
The basic list of modifications would go:
S3 312mm brake upgrade (piece of ****, new carriers and new discs. Job done)
Forge 007p DV.
Jetex filter (off Bill at Badger 5).
Powerflex dogbone lower engine mount.
Stage 1 map = 190bhp and a fairly decent power curve.
K03s turbo.
3" downpipe and decat.
Silicone turbo intake pipe.
Front mount intercooler.
Eibach rear anti roll bar kit.
N249 bypass and PCV delete.
Yellow DV spring.
G60 flywheel and VR6 clutch upgrade.
Half decent rear section of the exhaust/backbox.
Half decent set of coilovers, personally I suggest Weitec.
Stage 2 map and 230bhp. If you can be ***** to throw a Forge wastegate actuator on there you can expect a bit more power across the range.
There are a couple of other tricks you can go, such as a VR6 MAF, WMI and large injectors to get the power up a little. But that's not exactly mainstream tuning and most people go for a hybrid turbo before they get to this stage. It IS possible to get 250bhp out of a K03s; but for the same cost you could get 270bhp out of a hybrid.
There is much more than the engine to stage tuning, IMO a stage 2 car is as much about the suspension and chassis upgrades as it is the go faster bit. So just remember everything has to be balanced and work together.
That should be all you need to be honest. Just make sure the car is properly serviced and up to scratch mechanically.
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i went to celtic bodge tunning tried canceling the map 10 mins before i got there.. then spent 6 hours there after they blew up the fuel pump relay and put the maff on the wrong way round then car was there for a week doing nothing and still put a new maff in and still the worng way round..
I got there and within ten mins chekced the maff and changed it the right way car was fine then refused to map it
one word for them are complete ################################ rk enginering alot better down are way
Depends on the spec you want to go for; there is no safe/not safe limit for engines. However with an AGU you are internally at a benefit from an AUM due to the large port head allowing better flow and the larger gudgeon pins on the little ends. For a K03 fitment turbo you will not need to do any internal modifications; for me a K03s can offer more than enough for an A3.
In my opinion (which is not shared by everybody, but who cares because I'm right) a good stage 2 A3 is as good as it gets. A safe and reliable 240bhp in a fairly decent FWD chassis.
The basic list of modifications would go:
S3 312mm brake upgrade (piece of ****, new carriers and new discs. Job done)
Forge 007p DV.
Jetex filter (off Bill at Badger 5).
Powerflex dogbone lower engine mount.
Stage 1 map = 190bhp and a fairly decent power curve.
K03s turbo.
3" downpipe and decat.
Silicone turbo intake pipe.
Front mount intercooler.
Eibach rear anti roll bar kit.
N249 bypass and PCV delete.
Yellow DV spring.
G60 flywheel and VR6 clutch upgrade.
Half decent rear section of the exhaust/backbox.
Half decent set of coilovers, personally I suggest Weitec.
Stage 2 map and 230bhp. If you can be ***** to throw a Forge wastegate actuator on there you can expect a bit more power across the range.
There are a couple of other tricks you can go, such as a VR6 MAF, WMI and large injectors to get the power up a little. But that's not exactly mainstream tuning and most people go for a hybrid turbo before they get to this stage. It IS possible to get 250bhp out of a K03s; but for the same cost you could get 270bhp out of a hybrid.
There is much more than the engine to stage tuning, IMO a stage 2 car is as much about the suspension and chassis upgrades as it is the go faster bit. So just remember everything has to be balanced and work together.
That should be all you need to be honest. Just make sure the car is properly serviced and up to scratch mechanically.
thanks dude that's awesome. I completely agree no point being able to go fast if you can't stop then not be able to turn everything has to be balanced. Thank you for the advice, im going to follow this advice I hope to make it a beast and I will admit I'd like as much bhp as it can safely handle.
