nuts 2 and 7 on xs manifold

[jezzy]

Hi
any ideas on how to tighten nuts 2 and 7 on xs manifold?
its a nightmare, i have already cut 2 spanner heads in half with no luck.
the one under the turbo nut 7, i cant even get the nut on.

any info greatly appreciated

 

[badger5]

2 & 7?

 

[<tuffty/>]

The difficult ones (guessing 2 and 7 in this case) which one at least from memory is the one on the runner for cyl 4 you normally start off before tightening up the other so you can actually get a nut on... sadly you will have to back all the nuts off, pull the mani away from teh head a bit and then get the nut started...

If you are using a new OEM mani gasket then all will be fine... if using the POS supplied by relentless then take the whole mani off, buy an OEM gasket and write 1000 lines saying 'what a pillock I am for using that POS gasket made of cheese!'

They are fun to fit aren't they ;P

<tuffty/>

 

[jezzy]

top runner with eight studs on the manifold, space is limited to say the least.
studs 2 and 7 cut down to allow fitment, but the manifold will not allow stud 2 to even accept a nut (turbo end)

 

[jezzy]

i bought oem gaskets for the manni, turbo and down pipe,
Thanks for the info, no lines today ;-)

 

[s3gazz]

take it the head is on pal im fitting mine to the AGU head this weekend with the turbo too to see how it goes

 

[Prawn]

top runner with eight studs on the manifold, space is limited to say the least.
studs 2 and 7 cut down to allow fitment, but the manifold will not allow stud 2 to even accept a nut (turbo end)

It's tricky but it will go. I had to fit mine with a thinner washer to be able to get it on at all.

Back all the others right off, or even remove them, and just concentrate on getting the 2nd and 7th nuts on first. with the manifold pulled away from the head you should be able to get the nut in then slowly drop the mani onto the head bit by bit as you turn the nut.

Sounds difficult, IS difficult, but it will go in the end. just don't give up

Once you've got those two done the rest is easy.

Small tip for when you come to fit the turbo stud that's hidden under the manifold, try removing the top downpipe stud from the turbo housing before fitting the turbo. I found this makes it much easier to get a spanner in to tighten the nut, then just wind the downpipe stud back into the turbo using the two nut method once you have the turbo secured

 

[s3dave]

Thin walled nuts help for 2 x 7

 

[jezzy]

thanks i really appreciate all the info.
id be dead in the water without it

 

[jezzy]

Hi
im now onto putting the downpipe on (thank god)
i didnt drop the subframe, i just cut it out with my new toy (angle grinder)
So do i need to drop the subframe to get the 3 inch pipe in or if i jack it up high enough will the downpipe just go in ?
any info appreciated

 

[<tuffty/>]

All the 3" DP's I have ever done generally fit without the subframe being dropped but you will need to undo the prop shaft and move it to one side... undo three bolts viewable from the tunnel looking towards the back of the engine...

...then undo the dogbone (2 x bolts on gearbox will be enough) so you can rock the engine forward.. there is a spigot the prop doughnut sits onto so push engine out the way and move prop to the passenger side...

This should give you the room to wrestle the DP in...

<tuffty/>

 

[jezzy]

thank you tuffy