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  1. #1
    A3 T's Avatar
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    Coil Pack Wires?*

    I know you can get a replacement wiring harness from awesome that replaces the the wires all the way up to the ecu, but has anyone tried just replacing the the parts of the wire that's on top of the engine with some quality wire?
    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

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  3. #2
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    tbh the plugs are usually buggered too so its almost worth just getting the Audi loom as its easier for most even if you splice it in...

    If you feel more up to the task there is nothing to stop anyone doing it but I would be using a silicon sheathed wire (like RC cars, airsoft guns or similar) if I were doing it and you would have to source the plugs and terminals from a dealer...

    Did consider it but for the price of the new loom it wasn't really worth doing..

    Go for it though and write it up with lots of pics

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  4. #3
    A3 T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    tbh the plugs are usually buggered too so its almost worth just getting the Audi loom as its easier for most even if you splice it in...

    If you feel more up to the task there is nothing to stop anyone doing it but I would be using a silicon sheathed wire (like RC cars, airsoft guns or similar) if I were doing it and you would have to source the plugs and terminals from a dealer...

    Did consider it but for the price of the new loom it wasn't really worth doing..

    Go for it though and write it up with lots of pics

    <tuffty/>


    Thanks for the reply mate

    What i was thinking of doing is to just cut out the sections that have cracked and then solder and heat shrink some new wire in.

    The wire going into the coil packs looks ok so i could just cut the wire as close to the coil packs as possible and join the wire there.


    I was also thinking of using some silicone hose as a sort of conduit to pass the new wires through.


    I don't suppose you know what AWG the standard wire is do you?
    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

  5. #4
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Personally I think that will end up being worse... patching wires in with soldering just adds more point of failure and alters the resistance of the wires... if the joint becomes dry from the heat etc this could lead to further problems...

    Its not something I would do in this case tbh...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by A3 T View Post
    Thanks for the reply mate

    What i was thinking of doing is to just cut out the sections that have cracked and then solder and heat shrink some new wire in.

    The wire going into the coil packs looks ok so i could just cut the wire as close to the coil packs as possible and join the wire there.


    I was also thinking of using some silicone hose as a sort of conduit to pass the new wires through.


    I don't suppose you know what AWG the standard wire is do you?
    dont waste your time imho
    repair loom from VAG is £25-£27 and has new connectors, new wire, easy to splice into the old loom...
    cutting in and splcing in sections is a lot of effort and wont be as good. likehood is the more you unloom the more cracks you will find..

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  7. #6
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    Gotta agree with Badger and Tuffty on this one. I work at a company where we build electric and hybrid cars, and soldered joints in engine bays just leads to problems. The change in internal impedance of the wire and difference in this value between the wires in the loom (due to differing quality solder joints) can cause problems. I'd just buy the repair kit

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    cheaper than what i thought it would be god im getting one then as mine is cracked all near the plugs so i siliconed it up for now and put new tape on.
    350bhp & 316ftlb BBT new k16 7+7 blade hybrid turbo, Welly cooler, jetex filter, relentless ported v3 manifold 3" downpipe & de-cat, liquid gauge, r32 rear arb, AGU ported and polished Head, 550cc injectors, kw v2 Coilovers, s3dave tie bars & heat sheild, milltek cat back, I.E forged rods, brembos, inline fuel pump, v3 badger 5 tip, devils own WMI kit, AGU pistons, rear grooved discs & brembo pads, ds2500 pads & EBC ultimax disc, stack boost gauge

  9. #8
    A3 T's Avatar
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    Thanks for al the replies

    Its not that I'm trying to save money as the looms are cheap enough, i just thought i could use better quality wire and i wouldn't need to run it all the way back the the ecu...etc.

    I didn't think about dry solder joints from the heat. maybe i could use crimp terminals?

    How is the loom bought from awesome joined up if soldering is a no go?
    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

  10. #9
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    I replaced with the loom from awesome, easy enough job, took about 2 hours, and havent had any problems after 15000miles. there is a really good diy online somewhere, cant remember where, but basically all the wires are numbered and coloured and the plugs on the loom are numbered. so all you have to do is re pin the plugs, the hardest part is getting the old pins out of the plugs. you can get special tools for de-pinning but i used 2 safety pins and a bit of force. you cant really go wrong.

    i would also really recommend using 2.0T coil packs as a good upgrade, the red ones from awesome are good think they are the "E" revision and they are cheaper. you can run bigger gaps with no misfires, and get a more complete combustion = More power. don't bother with hold downs or 2.0t conversion things on the AUM valve cover they sit a bit higher but seal ok and don't pop out.
    A3 8L 1.8t re-homed my first car :'(
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  11. #10
    Tobe's Avatar
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    + my old wiring was cracked all the way upto the ecu on a 10 year old car, so its best to replace the whole thing.
    A3 8L 1.8t re-homed my first car :'(
    A6 C5 2.7t re-homed
    A4 B6 S-Line 1.8T

  12. #11
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A3 T View Post
    Thanks for al the replies

    Its not that I'm trying to save money as the looms are cheap enough, i just thought i could use better quality wire and i wouldn't need to run it all the way back the the ecu...etc.

    I didn't think about dry solder joints from the heat. maybe i could use crimp terminals?

    How is the loom bought from awesome joined up if soldering is a no go?
    tbh it depends on how good your soldering is... you need a fairly manly soldering iron to do the thicker power cables... if you twist together then solder they should be ok... I soldered mine and while that may seem contradictory to the advice I gave earlier I did solder them further round the side of the engine where heat from the turbo would not be an issue...

    The solution you had in mind would have added too many soldered joins too close to a very strong heat source and this would not be the best way to do it...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

 

 

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