Scraping noise after upright removal; driveshaft, bearing and hub replacement

Squirrelofdoom

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Hi guys,

So, as some of you know I've been struggling with replacing my N/S front driveshaft, bearing and hub after I found my hub had taken a bash and was buckled. So, replaced everything, pressed in brand new bearing and hub and reassembled everything tonight. Took the car for a short test drive and noticed a very loud scraping noise from the corner I have been working on. It sounds most like the sound of the disc rubbing against the pads constantly and quite heavily. Tomorrow morning (because I can't be ***** to do it now) I will do some more investigative work, but I wanted to gather some opinions before I start to give myself a headstart.

So, where do you boys think I should be looking / most likely causes for this during the reassembly? Things I may have not put on quite right etc.

2 things I'm thinking.

1) Because of the runout on the hub previously, the pads have worn all skewed and are therefor now hitting the disc on one of the high points. This I can test by switching the pads to the other side of the car? Any other thoughts?

2) When fixing on the hub nut (get someone to press brake, torque to 190nm while still in the air, drop and turn another 90 degrees) when I was torquing up to 190nm in the air with someone pressing the brake, the brake would slip before I hit 190nm - suggesting maybe the pads are now not squeezing the disc evenly due to the previous runout? I had to put the car in gear to get to the required torque. Also when I dropped the car I could only physically get maybe another 45degrees of turn on the nut because my tools simply weren't big enough, am I gonna suffer for this later?

Any thoughts are appreciated guys. Like I said, just wanna get a head start before I crack on tomorrow morning.

On the bright side, the new components have fixed the previous problems :)...just introduced this new one lol

Thanks guys,
Aran
 
Could be something as simple as the brake shield touching the disk?

I usually do the whole tightening sequence with the car on the ground for the hub nut, easier to stop it moving that way. If your going to do it with the car in the air, your probably better starting the engine, so you actually get full servo assistance.
 
Hi aragorn. Yeah, someone else mentioned it might be the shield too, i'm gonna look tomorrow and fingers crossed it's something simple!!! Also, I did the torquing up to 190nm in the air, then dropped it for the last 90degree turn, it's what it told me in ELSAWIN so that's what I did lol :)