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Thread: S3 Oil Pump Change (with pics)

  1. #1
    danger S3's Avatar
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    S3 Oil Pump Change (with pics)

    ok, so a while back i did a guide for removing/refitting the sump and also cleaning the pickup. this can be found S3 Sump Removal and Refit (with pics)

    so to change the oil pump i did whats in the sump removal part of the thread then started to set about the oil pump.

    to start with i removed the pickup which contained these parts (not the bolt btw). there was a bit of silicone gasket, ill put that down to using a bit too much sealant last time i refitted the sump. and the bits of plastic i think are from the broken end of the breather hoses bit that goes into the front of the engine very glad to get them out of there

    all of the screws are 5mm allen key heads and i used a 160mm long 5mm allen key on a 3/8" socket. just like this one Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay Laser part number: 2870. They are also hex heads so a 10mm socket on the oil pump bolts as if they are a little tight they can round using a 5mm allen key (thanks for the suggestion of the 10mm socket <tuffty/>)



    Then i removed the baffle which is held on by one screw (screw also helps hold the pump on) there are 3 screws holding the pump on.



    once the baffles off u get a good look up into the engine



    and also you can see the underside of the engine and the old oil pump without pickup



    there are another 2 screws and once they are undone you can get into removing it, below you can see there is a spring loaded tensioner. i removed it by having the oil pump hanging down and holding the tensioner back and slipping it off the sprocket. ElsaWin says you should remove the sprocket to get it off but i thought this was easier.

    if you do choose to take the sprocket off the torque for re attaching it is 22Nm.



    here are a couple of pics of the old oil pump next to the new one, quite a difference in colour





    now for fitting the new oil pump, i noticed that the old oil pump had left one of its plastic dowels in the block so i removed that and used the 2 that came already in the new pump.

    I also took some new oil and put it through the new oil pump and make sure it had been run through and spinned lots to get it all lubed then filled it and fitted it

    installing is just a reverse of the removal really. wee bit fiddly to get it back on the chain but it wasn't too bad.



    here is a pic of the new oil pump in but not torqued up yet. also the baffle isn't on yet, it needs to be on before the baffle screws tightened obviously

    the torque settings to put the oil pump onto the block is 16Nm



    the last pic here is of the oil pump fully fitted and torqued up with the new pickup attached.



    after that i just cleaned up the mating surfaces with some alcohol and re attached the sump in the previous guide S3 Sump Removal and Refit (with pics)


    to recap the torque settings:

    Chain sprocket to oil pump shaft - 22Nm
    Oil pump to cylinder block - 16Nm

    tools needed:

    Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay - Laser part number: 2870

    That's all folk, if there is anything I've forgotten (there probably will be) please feel free to jump in

    oh and the last point, got for a drive
    Last edited by danger S3; 27th July 2012 at 17:41. Reason: added <tuffty/> 10mm socket suggestion
    JUS3IN likes this.

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  3. #2
    superkarl's Avatar
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    excellent guide! well done mate.

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    great help mate as ill be doining mine soon
    350bhp & 316ftlb BBT new k16 7+7 blade hybrid turbo, Welly cooler, jetex filter, relentless ported v3 manifold 3" downpipe & de-cat, liquid gauge, r32 rear arb, AGU ported and polished Head, 550cc injectors, kw v2 Coilovers, s3dave tie bars & heat sheild, milltek cat back, I.E forged rods, brembos, inline fuel pump, v3 badger 5 tip, devils own WMI kit, AGU pistons, rear grooved discs & brembo pads, ds2500 pads & EBC ultimax disc, stack boost gauge

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    I would use a 10mm socket on the oil pump bolts personally as if they are a little tight they can round using a 5mm allen key..

    I normally remove the sprocket but I do use an impact gun to wind it off then torque it back on with a torque wrench..

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    v5 tt's Avatar
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    Excellent write up

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    Always like your write-ups, they're so easy to follow.....Don't suppose you fancy doing one for removal/refit of the head do you????!!!!
    Badger 5 tuned 340 bhp / 350 lbft sleeper

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    danger S3's Avatar
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    Cheers guys, glad you like it.

    Tuffty i edited my post to add in your 10mm socket suggestion

    slowcoach3 i hope i never have todo a guide for the head but if i do i will sort it. just like i hope i never have to do anything with my turbo. but I'm ready to man up if i have to

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    well as iv started my build i was at this stage of removing the oil pump and undid it all as said above but could not get the chain off so might have to take the tensioner off or the oil pump cog itself
    350bhp & 316ftlb BBT new k16 7+7 blade hybrid turbo, Welly cooler, jetex filter, relentless ported v3 manifold 3" downpipe & de-cat, liquid gauge, r32 rear arb, AGU ported and polished Head, 550cc injectors, kw v2 Coilovers, s3dave tie bars & heat sheild, milltek cat back, I.E forged rods, brembos, inline fuel pump, v3 badger 5 tip, devils own WMI kit, AGU pistons, rear grooved discs & brembo pads, ds2500 pads & EBC ultimax disc, stack boost gauge

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s3gazz View Post
    well as iv started my build i was at this stage of removing the oil pump and undid it all as said above but could not get the chain off so might have to take the tensioner off or the oil pump cog itself
    Remove the cog mate... I normally use an impact gun to remove it but as long as you can lock or prevent the crank from turning while you so it then it will come undone

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Thanks mate ye I noticed that as I turned the crank to get piston 1 an 4 top dead flush then went to undo it moved so need to some how stop it from moving too fidly taking chain off ha
    350bhp & 316ftlb BBT new k16 7+7 blade hybrid turbo, Welly cooler, jetex filter, relentless ported v3 manifold 3" downpipe & de-cat, liquid gauge, r32 rear arb, AGU ported and polished Head, 550cc injectors, kw v2 Coilovers, s3dave tie bars & heat sheild, milltek cat back, I.E forged rods, brembos, inline fuel pump, v3 badger 5 tip, devils own WMI kit, AGU pistons, rear grooved discs & brembo pads, ds2500 pads & EBC ultimax disc, stack boost gauge

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    Nice write up.

    Why did you change the oil pump? Had it failed or were you doing preventative maintenance?

    Is it the sort of thing everyone should think about changing (on high mileage engines) or only if they have a problem?

    Liam

    S3 AMK 2002. Only 203 BHP left in my poor little engine, currently searching for the 7 missing horses.
    Mods: Powerflex bushes at the front and rear, 710P DV, ambient light module, Badger5 V3 TIP, S2000 Filter.

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    if you ever have the sump off for any reason, i see that as a perfect excuse to fit a new one. preventative maintenence

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    danger S3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vfr800 View Post
    Nice write up.

    Why did you change the oil pump? Had it failed or were you doing preventative maintenance?

    Is it the sort of thing everyone should think about changing (on high mileage engines) or only if they have a problem?

    Liam
    Thanks.

    i changed it as a preventative measure, basically my thinking was if the oil pickups been partially blocked for dunno how many miles then the oil pump wouldn't have had the same lubrication it would like so it might be getting worn.

    so i changed it. looking at the old one that came out it actually seemed in reasonable nick but you know its just a piece of mind thing really. I'm still glad i did it.

    Ali

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    I finally changed my pickup and oil pump yesterday. It was a heck of a messy job, loads of oil kept dripping out of the engine onto me.

    My pickup pipe was hardly blocked at all. Oh well, i know its all good now and should all be good for another 100k+.

    To change the pump I pushed the tensioner back, it was easy enough.

    I'm hoping I put the sealant on well enough that it stays all sealed.

    Thanks again for the write up. Super helpful.

    Liam

    S3 AMK 2002. Only 203 BHP left in my poor little engine, currently searching for the 7 missing horses.
    Mods: Powerflex bushes at the front and rear, 710P DV, ambient light module, Badger5 V3 TIP, S2000 Filter.

  16. #15
    The Doctor's Avatar
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    Well done Liam, good to have that peace of mind though. My pick-up was also pretty clean when I dropped my sump last year, but I'm still glad I checked it.

  17. #16
    JUS3IN's Avatar
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    great write up mate, those 2 sump bolts in the gearbox are a right sod! my pickup was full of crud no wonder i had a rattly top end, bits off instant gasket and nearly all the holes blocked!
    1999 apy s3, n249 delete, sai and n112 delete. bbs lm reps, s2000 filter, relentless v3 manifold, relentless downpipe and sports cat, scorpion cat back system, badger 5 v3 tip, bam rocker cover, push in coilpacks, toyosports fmic, amd remapped to 280.3 bhp and 263.9 lb/ft.

 

 

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