ok, so a while back i did a guide for removing/refitting the sump and also cleaning the pickup. this can be found S3 Sump Removal and Refit (with pics)
so to change the oil pump i did whats in the sump removal part of the thread then started to set about the oil pump.
to start with i removed the pickup which contained these parts (not the bolt btw). there was a bit of silicone gasket, ill put that down to using a bit too much sealant last time i refitted the sump. and the bits of plastic i think are from the broken end of the breather hoses bit that goes into the front of the engine
very glad to get them out of there
all of the screws are 5mm allen key heads and i used a 160mm long 5mm allen key on a 3/8" socket. just like this one Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay Laser part number: 2870. They are also hex heads so a 10mm socket on the oil pump bolts as if they are a little tight they can round using a 5mm allen key (thanks for the suggestion of the 10mm socket <tuffty/>)
Then i removed the baffle which is held on by one screw (screw also helps hold the pump on) there are 3 screws holding the pump on.
once the baffles off u get a good look up into the engine
and also you can see the underside of the engine and the old oil pump without pickup
there are another 2 screws and once they are undone you can get into removing it, below you can see there is a spring loaded tensioner. i removed it by having the oil pump hanging down and holding the tensioner back and slipping it off the sprocket. ElsaWin says you should remove the sprocket to get it off but i thought this was easier.
if you do choose to take the sprocket off the torque for re attaching it is 22Nm.
here are a couple of pics of the old oil pump next to the new one, quite a difference in colour
now for fitting the new oil pump, i noticed that the old oil pump had left one of its plastic dowels in the block so i removed that and used the 2 that came already in the new pump.
I also took some new oil and put it through the new oil pump and make sure it had been run through and spinned lots to get it all lubed then filled it and fitted it
installing is just a reverse of the removal really. wee bit fiddly to get it back on the chain but it wasn't too bad.
here is a pic of the new oil pump in but not torqued up yet. also the baffle isn't on yet, it needs to be on before the baffle screws tightened obviously :icon_thumright:
the torque settings to put the oil pump onto the block is 16Nm
the last pic here is of the oil pump fully fitted and torqued up with the new pickup attached.
after that i just cleaned up the mating surfaces with some alcohol and re attached the sump in the previous guide S3 Sump Removal and Refit (with pics)
to recap the torque settings:
Chain sprocket to oil pump shaft - 22Nm
Oil pump to cylinder block - 16Nm
tools needed:
Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay - Laser part number: 2870
That's all folk, if there is anything I've forgotten (there probably will be) please feel free to jump in
oh and the last point, got for a drive
so to change the oil pump i did whats in the sump removal part of the thread then started to set about the oil pump.
to start with i removed the pickup which contained these parts (not the bolt btw). there was a bit of silicone gasket, ill put that down to using a bit too much sealant last time i refitted the sump. and the bits of plastic i think are from the broken end of the breather hoses bit that goes into the front of the engine
very glad to get them out of thereall of the screws are 5mm allen key heads and i used a 160mm long 5mm allen key on a 3/8" socket. just like this one Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay Laser part number: 2870. They are also hex heads so a 10mm socket on the oil pump bolts as if they are a little tight they can round using a 5mm allen key (thanks for the suggestion of the 10mm socket <tuffty/>)
Then i removed the baffle which is held on by one screw (screw also helps hold the pump on) there are 3 screws holding the pump on.
once the baffles off u get a good look up into the engine
and also you can see the underside of the engine and the old oil pump without pickup
there are another 2 screws and once they are undone you can get into removing it, below you can see there is a spring loaded tensioner. i removed it by having the oil pump hanging down and holding the tensioner back and slipping it off the sprocket. ElsaWin says you should remove the sprocket to get it off but i thought this was easier.
if you do choose to take the sprocket off the torque for re attaching it is 22Nm.
here are a couple of pics of the old oil pump next to the new one, quite a difference in colour
now for fitting the new oil pump, i noticed that the old oil pump had left one of its plastic dowels in the block so i removed that and used the 2 that came already in the new pump.
I also took some new oil and put it through the new oil pump and make sure it had been run through and spinned lots to get it all lubed then filled it and fitted it
installing is just a reverse of the removal really. wee bit fiddly to get it back on the chain but it wasn't too bad.
here is a pic of the new oil pump in but not torqued up yet. also the baffle isn't on yet, it needs to be on before the baffle screws tightened obviously :icon_thumright:
the torque settings to put the oil pump onto the block is 16Nm
the last pic here is of the oil pump fully fitted and torqued up with the new pickup attached.
after that i just cleaned up the mating surfaces with some alcohol and re attached the sump in the previous guide S3 Sump Removal and Refit (with pics)
to recap the torque settings:
Chain sprocket to oil pump shaft - 22Nm
Oil pump to cylinder block - 16Nm
tools needed:
Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay - Laser part number: 2870
That's all folk, if there is anything I've forgotten (there probably will be) please feel free to jump in
oh and the last point, got for a drive
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