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Thread: Fitted Relentless Manifold

  1. #41
    RIP S3dave

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    TPS yes, copper plated, OE
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  3. #42
    boost-addict's Avatar
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    yer the copper platted ones, as for shorter studs, just look up m8 x (length) and your find the ones you want.

  4. #43
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    or just cut 5-6mm off the OE studs!
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    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  5. #44
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    Well after a couple hundred miles put up on the manifold the bloody thing has cracked somewhere on one of the welds even though I had all of them strengthened. I can't believe it. So I am gonna have to take it all apart again. I suppose you get what you pay for. I am soo pissed off at the moment. Over the last couple of weeks the car also started to develop a rattle from one of the heatshields which has been gradually getting worse and everything I try does nothing to resolve the issue. Nothing but trouble since fitting this manifold.
    Are the V3 manifold welds any better than the V2 or do they have to be strengthened also.
    B5 v1 Tip, B5 Exhaust Manifold, Beach Buggy Hybrid, Pipewerx D.P and cat bypass, Miltek resonated cat back, AH Fabs v2 Intercooler, S2000 Filter, 83mm 9.5:1 CP Pistons, Brute Rods, Bosch 550cc Injectors, Oil Catch can, N249 delete, B5 Phenolic Gasket, Devils Own Water Meth Kit, Forge baffled sump.
    H&R Springs, Koni FSD Shocks, s3dave's rear tie bars, R32 ARB's, LCR Brembo's, 18" ttrs alloys, replaced all suspension bushes, 15/20mm spacers front/rear, Vibratechnics Engine Mounts.

  6. #45
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    Cracked where? do you know yet?

    I have seen a V3 up close and personal and they appear to have improved the welds (actually using filler rod rather than fusion weld) and added braces in areas known to have issues... as to if it will last longer who knows...

    As for fitment and other issues related to consistancy etc then this is as yet unkonwn... certianly doesn't look any more difficult to fit than previous incarnations

    <tuffty/>
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  7. #46
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    Not sure exactly where it is cracked, but it is. I can hear it blowing, smell it and can feel it on my hand, but as you know it heats up pretty quickly so you can't keep your hand in there for too long. It seems to be near the collector area. When I get the time to remove the manifold I will let you know
    B5 v1 Tip, B5 Exhaust Manifold, Beach Buggy Hybrid, Pipewerx D.P and cat bypass, Miltek resonated cat back, AH Fabs v2 Intercooler, S2000 Filter, 83mm 9.5:1 CP Pistons, Brute Rods, Bosch 550cc Injectors, Oil Catch can, N249 delete, B5 Phenolic Gasket, Devils Own Water Meth Kit, Forge baffled sump.
    H&R Springs, Koni FSD Shocks, s3dave's rear tie bars, R32 ARB's, LCR Brembo's, 18" ttrs alloys, replaced all suspension bushes, 15/20mm spacers front/rear, Vibratechnics Engine Mounts.

  8. #47
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    shame as a good manifold. well if its ko3 fitment drop me a lione if you go for the v3 ill have the v2 from you, sure theres something i can do with it,

  9. #48
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    Are you sure it is not the manni to turbo gasket, these have an habit of working loose... who welded it?

  10. #49
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    I'd expect it to be a gasket rather than a crack after just a few hundred miles too, my welded V2 has done a few thousand miles now, and a few trackdays and a Ring trip, and when i removed it on Saturday I gave it a thorough inspection all over and it shows no signs of cracking at all
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    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  11. #50
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    If you used the supplied gaskets rather than OEM ones then I would expect them to have disintegrated by now... they are absolute crap..

    OE gaskets should be used on any of this tbh...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  12. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by IrishDave View Post
    Not sure exactly where it is cracked, but it is. I can hear it blowing, smell it and can feel it on my hand, but as you know it heats up pretty quickly so you can't keep your hand in there for too long. It seems to be near the collector area. When I get the time to remove the manifold I will let you know
    What gaskets did you use when you fitted it?

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  13. #52
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    OE gaskets all round. Will hopefully get going on it in the next few days.
    B5 v1 Tip, B5 Exhaust Manifold, Beach Buggy Hybrid, Pipewerx D.P and cat bypass, Miltek resonated cat back, AH Fabs v2 Intercooler, S2000 Filter, 83mm 9.5:1 CP Pistons, Brute Rods, Bosch 550cc Injectors, Oil Catch can, N249 delete, B5 Phenolic Gasket, Devils Own Water Meth Kit, Forge baffled sump.
    H&R Springs, Koni FSD Shocks, s3dave's rear tie bars, R32 ARB's, LCR Brembo's, 18" ttrs alloys, replaced all suspension bushes, 15/20mm spacers front/rear, Vibratechnics Engine Mounts.

  14. #53
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    Ok finally got some ramp time the last few days. This time it was off with the head instead of trying to take the manifold off with it in place. So the culprit was the awkward bolt turbo to mani has disappeared. So as first thought the mani is not cracked, which was great news.
    So going to be putting it back together over the next day or so. Just a quick question. I am going to be using M10 studs to replace the usual bolts that hold the flanges together. Can I use just ordinary M10 nordlock nuts or will these melt under the intense heat. Also read in another post think it was Prawn that suggested using locktite to fix the studs in place. Will this hold?
    Any further tips/ideas would be much appreciated.
    B5 v1 Tip, B5 Exhaust Manifold, Beach Buggy Hybrid, Pipewerx D.P and cat bypass, Miltek resonated cat back, AH Fabs v2 Intercooler, S2000 Filter, 83mm 9.5:1 CP Pistons, Brute Rods, Bosch 550cc Injectors, Oil Catch can, N249 delete, B5 Phenolic Gasket, Devils Own Water Meth Kit, Forge baffled sump.
    H&R Springs, Koni FSD Shocks, s3dave's rear tie bars, R32 ARB's, LCR Brembo's, 18" ttrs alloys, replaced all suspension bushes, 15/20mm spacers front/rear, Vibratechnics Engine Mounts.

  15. #54
    RIP S3dave

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    nords dont melt in this use
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  16. #55
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    I've been running nordlock washers and stainless m10 nuts on mine all year and it seems fine

    any reason I shouldnt be using stainless nuts?
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  17. #56
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    i used the turbo to downpipe nuts and studs in the turbo. new ones of course and they not worked loose(but ive only done 200 miles or so)
    couldnt get nords, i live in a village and got a dumb look when i asked.
    i used copper nuts on the manifold to head (the look like a nut and washers together) and theyve been great too.
    my neighbour who works on buses said they wont melt or move, only time will tell though

  18. #57
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    oh yes i have the xs v2 mani too

  19. #58
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    think more to the point using nuts/bolts made from metals from non-rusting propities is what you need over any thing else. you may not even need to remove the fixings but for what there worth you may as well do it to save your self and future owners an easier life

  20. #59
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    I thought nordlocks were something different altogether until I googled them lol.
    B5 v1 Tip, B5 Exhaust Manifold, Beach Buggy Hybrid, Pipewerx D.P and cat bypass, Miltek resonated cat back, AH Fabs v2 Intercooler, S2000 Filter, 83mm 9.5:1 CP Pistons, Brute Rods, Bosch 550cc Injectors, Oil Catch can, N249 delete, B5 Phenolic Gasket, Devils Own Water Meth Kit, Forge baffled sump.
    H&R Springs, Koni FSD Shocks, s3dave's rear tie bars, R32 ARB's, LCR Brembo's, 18" ttrs alloys, replaced all suspension bushes, 15/20mm spacers front/rear, Vibratechnics Engine Mounts.

 

 
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