K04 Conversion On Audi A3 AGU HELP PLEASE !!!

Chester999

Chester999

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Does anybody know if the k03 oil and water feeds will fit the k04 on an audi a3 agu engine or will i have to buy all new ones??
 
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ok cheers mate do you know if any of them will fit i have been told that the oil drain wont fit but do you know if any of the others will fit thanks
 
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The issue is the turbo sits in the different place, meaning the length and position of the connections all change, and because most of the original lines are rigid pipe even if they were long enough you cant really bend them back into shape anyway.
 
yup, having recently done this myself, the k03 lines will not fit at all, oil, water, you need them all.
 
the nature of this topic begs the next question to be asked also I feel.....

Do you have the right MAF and injectors for the ko4?
 
yeah i have a 3" vr6 maf housing on the way which ill put my AGU sensor in (thanks Prawn) and was gonna go for 440cc green top injectors. i have xs power manifold brand new k04-023 turbo a 3" relentless downpipe and decat fmic coldside intake waiting for badger 5 to get some more blue 3" TIP in looking to get about 300bhp do you think this will be poss?
 
Ah, sound news. So often people buy complete setups with an S3 mAF and injectors and want it to work on the AGU, when it just wont!

If you've got a brand new turbo then you have a good chance of making good figures, the AGU has higher compression and a large port head which also helps loads. Niki has seen 300bhp from one car that was in good health, although 290ish is more realistic, but who knows!

Who are you planning on getting to map it? and what FMIC do you have?
 
its just a ebay fmic mate with 2.5 inch pipes says it was capable of 600bhp but who knows with ebay would it be worth upgrading it or not? And not to sure about the mapping yet was thinking about r tech.
 
So long as the pipes are 2.5''. Sounds like it could be the toyosports kit with a reasonably small core?

You'd be very well off keeping the pipes, but replacing the core with the larger toyosports type B known as the Wellycooler, it's easy to cut into your existing pipework, using the core and two 76-63mm reducers.

The smaller core will not be up to the job of cooling a ko4 flat out. Westy can confirm this, as he gained 25lbft going from the small core to the large one!
 
ok will look into getting a new bigger core then thanks for the info prawn. Quick question have you ever had to rotate your housing on your turbo mine doesnt seem to sit right?
 
The ko4 outlet sits differently to the ko3, the ko4 outlet points backwards slightly compared to the ko3, like this:

cacf41a3.jpg


5812b518.jpg


If you clock the housing round to get the outlet facing the wrong way, the actuator bracket won't fit any more!

Best solved by working out what you need to change and getting a new bit of silicon to join up.

Post a pic of your current setup and we can try and work out what's required
 
Cheers for your help prawn got there in the end lol thought i would post a pic of my k04 conversion still not finished but getting there.
 
what text mate?

All you should have is a .jpg link, which you put in
tags and it'll pop up :)
 
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there we go lol quick couple of questions prawn. When i bought my car (Audi a3 1998 1.8t AGU) it had a 195bhp oettinger chip in it on the k03 i have now done the k04 conversion and know that i will need a remap but will i do any damage running it how it is (before the remap) or will it be ok just not running 100%? And went for a little drive after i had done conversion everthing seemed fine the engine was running sweet i drove about 10-15 miles and my brake pedal just went rock soild and hardly works at all any ideas mate?
 
brake pedal going solid will be a servo line failled. Either something come off between the inlet and the servo, or potentially a bigger issue could be a melted hard line behind the turbo.

Have you added any extra heat shielding in the engine bay for the new turbo? You need to add LOTS to the A3 engine bay to keep it safe from fire, there are some important lines running across the bulkhead, and bolting on a ko4 with relentless manifold is sure to cook several of them if unprotected. the standard heat shield isn't enough.

Also, with regards to driving it, what injectors and MAF do you ahve in currently?

The mAF tube in your pic above looks big, and if it's unmapped, that'll be running lean as hell on stock injectors. if you've already put bigger injectors in, then it'll all be to **** and who knows what it's doing!

If you want to drive it at the moment before it's been mapped, what you need to do is sleeve and refit your stock 70mm MAF tube, and refit your stock AGU injectors.

Then unplug the N75 electrical plug leaving the pipes plumbed in. That'll drop boost to actuator pressure, around 6psi, which shuld stop it from blowing up.

With that MAF tube, and the N75 plugged in, if you floor it, it WILL blow up, maybe not instantly, but it won't take long at all to destroy it :(

Who's mapping it? and when?
 
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thanks again prawn your a legend it was the plastic pipe coming off the servo to the inlet had melted will replace with some rubber metal braided hose and more heat shielding where did you get your hest shield from cant find any as good as yours? And i currently have my standard injectors in but have put the bigger maf on so ill swap back for now then till i get it mapped. Was gonna go to r tech for the map but want to get clutch,flywheel and cambelt water pump done etc before.
 
If you havn't already, take a look in my build thread around Mid Jan of this year and I put up detailed pics of all the heat shielding I added. I have the double layer stuff from merlin Motorsport, not cheap, but very effetive. If it's been melting things at the back of the bay already I'd get it done ASAP.

As for your MAF, change back to stock ASAP. If you're new tube is 80mm, you'll be underfuelling by around 38%! scary ****.

As for the clutch and flywheel, what you want is an ABF flywheel, and a VR6 clutch. Use the flywheel bolts from an ABF as well, and the whole lot will drop straight on without any messing around. It's ligther than standard, gives a lighter pedal feel, and will hold over 300lbft.
 
Right got some braided pipe and heat shielding on the way have changed my maf back to standard with sleeve on will be looking out for vr6 clutch and abf flywheel then having cambelt and water pump done then off to r tech for the map. Prawn what did you do about the turbo bracket that sits on the bottom of the turbo and bolts to the engine my new turbo did not come with one and the one off my k03 will not fit??
 
Find one from a ko4 car mate. Just message someone breaking a car on ebay and see if they will sell you the bracket only
 
Chester999 said:
Right got some braided pipe and heat shielding on the way have changed my maf back to standard with sleeve on will be looking out for vr6 clutch and abf flywheel then having cambelt and water pump done then off to r tech for the map. Prawn what did you do about the turbo bracket that sits on the bottom of the turbo and bolts to the engine my new turbo did not come with one and the one off my k03 will not fit??
Click to expand...

What heat shielding did u buy
 
cheers mate my engine bay is getting there but not finished yet lol you want to make sure you shield the brake servo the turbo outlet pipe and all the pipes at the back of the engine ive already melted the brake pipe coming off the brake servo to the inlet manifold so make sure you shield it all good.
 
everything needs a heat shield man! otherwise it'll BURN!!!!

Take a look at my build thread. I put one large heat shield right across the back protecting all the hard lines, and another coming round to the side to protect the servo
 
Alright prawn i have managed to get hold of a VR6 clutch and ABF flywheel off of someone on here called slowcoach3 for an amazing price of £50 including postage cheers mate have not recieved yet but should be here soon only problem is no ABF flywheel bolts do you know where i can get some from ???
 
ok cheers mate does anyone know the part number for ABF flywheel bolts and will be getting 2.5" intercooler pipes with the wellycooler then.
 
When i fitted my solid flywheel i used N 90206103, thats on an A4, but i believe they all use the same bolts for solid flywheels, 19.5mm long.
 
As kev said above, flywheel bolts: vw part no: N90206103 x 6, and clutch pressure plate bolts. vw part no: N10101001 x 6.

2.5'' IC pipes are fine for twice the BHP you'll be pushing, and far easier to fit than 3''. take a look on the FMIC thread page 9 or 10 for my write up and list of parts you'll need.
 
Right got some flywheel bolts and clutch pressure plate bolts on the way cheers lads prawn whats the fmic thread called cant seem to find the right one mate???
 
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