EMC Light on and power down where to start

JA50N

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Hi
i guess these cars are set to try us.
i thought I lost some power a couple of weeks ago and that there was more noise as turbo spooled up and more off a dump when you eased of but put it down to getting used to the car. However the EMC (emission control light) came on I had it scanned not vag com but snap on machine which bought up error 17544 fuel trim bank1 (add) Lean p1136 The code was switched off but light came back on two days later they are thinking lambda but I still err towards boost but would that put the light on!
I have had a quick look around inlet manifold but can't see any splits bit of oil only slight on bottom of dump/diverted valve does not pipe looks fine.
I have been to statler to book it in but can't get it looked at till 9th July and as I use car everyday don't want to cause any problems with it.
I will buy a vag com but at the moment funds don't allow :-(
if anyone has any ideas to point me in I would love to fix it as just to have an hours look and scan is going to cost me £55 plus vat which if I am honest I don't have as no doubt it will then be ££££ to fix

Any help I would be grateful for I amin Rotherham

Cheers
 
It will be a vacuum leak of some description even if you haven't spotted it yet... smoke test would show it up...

Typical pipes are PCV (under the manifold) and SAI ones... check for oily areas as oil should be in the engine and not on the outside (I say this a lot now :))...

Process of elimination, use a torch to make stuff as visible as poss as its easy to miss small splits... you will need to move the pipes about as most are not obvious and in the case of rotten pipes typically happen where oil collects so underneath sections of the pipe that you can't easily see...

<tuffty/>
 
Cheers Tuffty
Puts my mind at rest, you really do seem to help out a lot on here and I am grateful.
i will give it another look later But have managed to get a smoke test booked for Wednesday along with a vagcom scan
i do like the oil should be inside quote;-) very true!
hoping it is a pipe leaking and it's not to expensive to fix fingers crossed
 
Just a quick update managed to take it to Jp autotech at Aughton seem a nice set of lads down there.
they scanned it and gave it a smoke test (even left it on while I went to look) and it is like a colander under the inlet manifold (Tufty spot on cheers) hoping to get a price later for replacing the pipes which are split even the valve Is hanging off one pipe!
So at least I know where the lack of power is coming from and no doubt it has been drinking fuel!
Sods law as well the EMC light went off yesterday just as I booked it in but glad I still took it after finding the above.
Will update when I get it back and hoping it performs as it did ;-)
 
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Got my car back Saturday morning from JP Autotechnics and must admit they have been great ordered parts everything fitted and working fine the guys down there are really helpful and I would certainly recommend them if you are in the Sheffield area;-)

The S3 is back to how it was pulls well with no hesitation cheers again for the advice Tufty very happy with it again
 
Back to square one light on again and found two pipes with splits a t piece and another above this replaced these however one of the pipes which goes to the T has broken down at the end.
It is difficult to get at with inlet manifold in place so I would just like to know how easy it to remove the inlnet manifold to do a better job with this (looks straightforward) but any advice welcomed that way I can check all pipes as I am a little disappointed to find I have a leak from a pipe already which I would have replaced had I done the original work as looking at the pipe it has been like it for some time
 
Inlet is easy enough to remove... what engine code is your S3?

<tuffty/>
 
Hi Tufty
its a 2001/2 think AMK not BAM
Presuming I should fit a new gasket if removed even though it was changed when they did the work.
 
Yeah... its likely to be welded on there a bit and they tend to fall apart once pulled off... they are only a few quid though so not bank breaking...

Most of what you need to do should be obvious... remove the plastic trim in front of the inlet mani but be prepared to drill out the screws as they have a habit of sticking in and are easy to round off as they are made from cheese... unplug the EGT sensor wiring and undo the 2 x 5mm cap screws holding the metal plate on... there is a clip (or should be unless its broken off already) on the left hand side (looking in the bay) holding a water pipe on... remove that... carefully tease the metal plate off the dip stick tube but... chances are it will break as they all do so buy a new one as they are only a couple of quid....

Once that all out the way then you should have more than enough room to do the pipes underneath however if you feel you need to take the inlet right off then its pretty straight forward and obvious what needs unplugging/removing etc... EGT sensor box is held on by 2 x 5mm cap screws and the one over the alternator needs a shorter 5mm key if doing in situe but I tend to lift the mani off the head to give me room for a normal key...

There is also a support bracket held on with a 6mm (I think) cap screw under the mani throttle body side... don't forget to unplug the throttle body too...

Looks like this underneath..
20100927_IMAG0340.jpg


..and sorta like this when off.. (mines a little different of course)
IMAG0697.jpg


<tuffty/>
 
i cant count how many times you have shown this image Tuffty... even to me :p
 
Superb thankyou Tuffty

I have done as per your instructions and now I have removed all the pipes myself I am very disappointed in the work which was done.
first time in years I have let a garage do work and although seemed great initially it was not to be!

I will have replaced three pipes and a valve including the crankcase pipe all three where completely gone and looked like they have been for a while and had I originally done the work myself i would have replaced these as a matter of cause as if they where not leaking then ( to give benefit of doubt) they would have shown the signs of being due to however also looking at the manifold they removed to do the work it certainly does not show any signs of recent removal looking around it at the dirt and the bolts to but rant over lesson learnt (if you want it done correctly do it yourself) parts ordered from Tps and now just waiting to put it back together.
I do think though after this I will have to get a boost gauge or a liquid one just got to make my mind up which ;-)
again thanks to Tufty and the forum for making it simple
 
I really cannot believe the luck I am having recently changed the pipes all back together however now I am getting a huge power loss at just over 3000 rpm and sometimes a backfire sounds and feels like a huge leak and I get wha sound like a large air dump from the dump valve I am going to try and get it in to be scanned and smoke tested this afternoon but can't believe from a little loss of power from a leaking pipe I now have this and still have engine light on hoping it is something simple now as I have had the pipes from under the manifold on and off more times in the last week than I can mention but on a lighter note I am getting quicker at removing them!

Is there anything I could have disturbed which is causing this lack of power as it is much worse tan it was with a pole of pipes leaking
 
Sorted it was the pipe from the fpr to mani rotton pipe and broke off guess I disturbed it but at least a new pipe on there now and car running sweet again. :)
 
Yep slowly getting replaced ;-)

Cant believe it 20 mile or so under its belt and light back on still feels fine but thinking maf now will get there in the end !
 

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