Loss of power 4th & 5th gear around 1800rpm - Limp mode??

ruffrida

ruffrida

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Hi Ya'll,

I have a 1.9tdi Sport on a 2000 plate that is really getting annoying.

The car was stood for around 2 month and once started and on the road (going up a hill) it seemed to back off like the turbo had gone. I discovered this was (before you all say it) the vains sticking in my turbo, or at least that's what i thought it was!!

New turbo on, new MAF, still wont rev over 2000rpm in 4th or 5th gear, well to be honest if you got to that it would of already gone into what seems like limp mode.

I have also blanked off the EGR, this seems to have improved it slightly but not totally, it will still limp mode!!

Please can any one help, and yes i know i would be best getting it scanned on vac-com but last time i tried that it kept coming up saying the lead was not connected to the car when it was.

Could all this be due to an old 109relay??

please help
 
Well after some research on a few other forums i went home last night and found that the intake manifold gasket was loose and also there was a hole in the induction pipe.

Unfortunately this has not fixed anything, quick as **** until its under load (4th gear 1800revs)
 
i understand that you are having trouble with vagcom / vcds but i would suggest that you get it scanned even at a local garage to find out where you need to be looking,

other wise you could end up shedding out loads of pennies replacing non faulty parts
 
Yeh i have a guy not from me (danio) who is a whizz on the old vag-com, but last time he tried it kept throughing back up, need speak to him again really as he has more than one system
 
Lol just re read the op. double check the vanes as I've fitted a recon unit that the vanes seized after 5miles.
 
Hi Ben,
Turbo seems to be working fine as it flies round town and made sure the turbo was full of oil before refitting
 
Have you manually tried moving the actuator with the engine off and cold?
 
actuator moves fine. Was also tested when turbo was done. Been out in it today and when it limp moded I stopped popped the bonnet and noticed the actuator was closed. As soon as you turn it off and on again actuator re opens. Random !
 
vac soleniod valve for the variable vanes?

come accross faulty ones before leaking the vacuum back and giving similar symtoms to sticking vanes.
 
Fitted a new Air pump solenoid last night, still limp moding.

Got a new N75 coming so hopefully that shoudl sort it.

Any one got any further ideas on this?
 
Getting really annoyed now !!

ALl new vacuum pipes fitted!
New Turbo
New MAF
NEw intake pipes
New Rocker Breather & Pipes
EGR Blanked off and vac control solenoid removed
New Vac Solenoid
New air filter
New brake servo pipes

STILL FECKING LIMP MODING !!!!
 
You haven't got the connectors for the manifold shut off solenoid and n75 on the wrong way round? I've seen that before.
 
BENJAMIN said:
You haven't got the connectors for the manifold shut off solenoid and n75 on the wrong way round? I've seen that before.
Click to expand...

Hi Ben,
Dont think so bud, i had a drawing off here of the vacuum system so all is on right, i hope might try that just in case
 
RIGHT !!

Still got this fcking limp mode problem and getting seriously stressed to the point that it is putting me off Audi's for life.

Yesterday i was slightly stressed at work and on the way back to the office decided to really stick the boot in, this was in third, which resulted in alot of grey smoke and limp mode kicked in at around 3k revs.

I also noticed that once about about 2500 the needle on the rev counter stutters its way up (like the old 205gti's used to), not sure if this is related.

Please please please help
 
audi upgrades
maybe some capital letters will help here:

WHAT DOES VAGCOM SAY IS WRONG WITH THE CAR?

If its going into limp mode, then the ECU has CHOSEN to do that, and will have logged a fault code which contains the reason why its done so. Finding out what that fault code says is your first step towards actually diagnosing the problem.

Or you could just keep throwing parts at it randomly. Good fun doing that, isnt it?
 
Couldnt scan on Vag - Com as my mates lead had broken, hopefully will get on it this weekend.

Will the ecu still record it even though it re-sets after you re start the car?

And no it is no fun chucking parts at it, let me tell ya, luckily i aint daft and nothing has come from the stealers so not to much expense on the old pocket
 
Seriously mate. how much money have you spent ?? get your car to a vag specialist. the only reason to do it your self is to save money whic you obviously have not achieved pal. like has been said above, stop replacing random parts before you have spent so much money you could have got a decent used car that runs 100%.

Jamie
 
Hi Jamie,

Not as much money as some people would spend lets put it that way, thank f**k for those 2 years at mechanic college all them moons ago let me tell ya!!

There is noway in a million years it would ever make it to a stealers. I am waiting for my mates new lead to come for his vag-com, then should be all good, but reading most posts on here it is a very common problem, which a lot people DONT FIX.

And if wanted a decent used car that runs 100% i would wake up in me cornflakes not be driving a fecking Audi everyday that limpmodes!!
 
i would wake up in me cornflakes not be driving a fecking Audi everyday that limpmodes!!


lol at this! well all you can do is wait then :) And by vag specialist i didnt mean stealers i meant indy specialist. but ill keep my fingers crossed for you that your mate can find the problem. I guess you could be doing your thermostat while you wait :icon_thumright: unless its done of course.

good luck, jamie
 
Well the point is the engine is covered with sensors of varying types, all of which feed back to the ECU. The ECU then makes decisions on how to run the engine.

If a sensor fails, or provides unexpected values, the ECU switches to a safety program, minimal boost and safe fuelling, in an attempt to limit any possible engine damage, and hopefully alert the driver that theres something wrong.

What that means is a) any one of the tens of sensors around the engine could fail and cause the same symptoms b) the ECU knows which sensor it wasnt happy with, and logs the reason in its memory.

Without querying that memory, and looking at the fault code, how exactly do you intend to work out why the ECU isnt happy?

Its not a simple mechanical issue, you've ruled that out by checking all the hoses, pipework, actuator etc etc, which means its pretty likely to be an electronic/software issue.

A vagcom lead is invaluable for these cars, and when you can buy a lead on ebay for a tenner its a complete no brainer to have one in the drawer so you can do your own fault finding.

Had you diagnosed the problem properly, instead of just throwing part after part at it, you could probably have even paid for a full genuine VCDS setup, and a computer to run it on with the money you'd saved from not changing half the engine for no reason.

And yet you post here, week after week, expecting someone on the other end of a computer to magically work out whats wrong with your car, when your making no effort to actually help yourself.
 
audi upgrades
Please see fault codes below;

17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation
Possible Symptoms


  • Reduced power output
  • Limp mode
Possible Causes


  • Boost Pressure too High
  • Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking
  • Charger Pressure Control defective
    • VNT (variable nozzle turbo): nozzles stuck
  • Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) defective
Possible Solutions


  • Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
  • Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
  • Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control Possible Causes
    • Check / Clean mechanism for variable nozzles
    • 17664 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit (G62): Open / Short to B+

      Possible Symptoms
    • Difficulties with starting a cold engine.
      • Diesel: an indication is extreme long time burning time of the glow indication light.
    • Starting the engine when engine is warmish or warm, idle rpm immediately is 1200 - 3000 rpm.
    • RPM at idle is irregular.
    • With all engine temperatures seldom idle rpm will vary between 900 - 1000 rpm.
    • With engine warm (90 °C) the engine temperature suddenly drops (70 °C) and slowly comes back to 90 °C.
    • Bad acceleration during warming up.
  • Wiring and/or connections faulty
  • Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) faulty - Ordered a new one should be here tomorrow


  • 17978/P1570/005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer

    Possible Symptoms
  • Engine starting but stalling immediately
Possible Causes


  • Key(s) not matched
  • Instrument Cluster not matched
  • Engine Control Unit (ECU) not matched
  • Engine Control Unit (ECU) Power Supply faulty
Possible Solutions


  • Check for Fault Codes in Immobilizer itself (part of Instrument Cluster in many cars, but separate Immobilizer Control Module in some)
  • Check Immobilizer Measuring Values (usually in Instrument Cluster OR Immobilizer Control Module)
  • Match Key(s)/Instrument Cluster/Engine Control Unit (ECU)
  • Check Engine Control Unit (ECU) Power Supply (Relay)
Special Notes


  • In case of Engine Starting Issues please make sure that you are really experience an Immobilizer related Problem! Even if the Immobilizer engages, the Engine will still start fine but cut out after 2-3 Seconds. If you are NOT experiencing this behavior (e.g. Engine doesn't start at all) your Problem is very likely NOT Immobilizer related.
  • May be stored in Combination with 01176 - Key: Signal too Low in Immobilizer Control Module.
  • If no other immobilizer related fault codes are stored and the immobilizer related meas. blocks are fine except Engine Start not allowed, in rare occasions it helps to try cold-booting the car. Remove both battery cables from the battery. Short the battery cables together (away from the battery) for about 15 seconds. Reconnect the battery. (Example)
  • Low battery voltage (including a faulty battery) may cause Immobilizer system malfunctions and testing should be done only with a known good battery installed.
Possible Solutions


  • Check wiring and connections
  • Check / Replace Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)
Special Notes


  • In MY 1995-2002 (?) in Europe at VW-cars the G2/G62 had the bad reputation of breaking down often. The default G2/G62 is black and all replacements are green.
17849 - N18 - This does not show up on Ross-Tech??
 
Last edited:
Hi Adam

It might be worth removing all the redundant vacuum hoses from your tdi to eliminate leaks.
you don't have EGR now so both the other solrnoids are pointless.

leave all the valves plugged in electrically.

I even dumped the Vac resevior ball.
N75 Picture

Ve_Tdi_Vac.jpg

Just 3 pipes now

Just fit the non return valve onto the Brake Vac pump nipple
Here is a diagram of how mine is connected and i get much less boost creep/overboost and no limp mode

Regards
Rick
 
Yes yes & Yes.

This was going to be my next question, was it worth getting rid of everything else, the N18 has already been removed, but left plugged in

Cheers Rick ya a good un

Defo sounds like a plan for later
 
Too true bud to true.

Damian should be sending me the live data soon aswel so that will be good to look at.

Coolant sensor was registering -25 on live data, so that is defo knackered

Cheers

Adam
 
Hi Bud,

Yeh, i had a look on the numpty site last night (Tdi Club Forum) and the was a guyon there said he had tried loads of things like me, but then he changed the coolant sensor and hay presto it fixed his limp mode.

Will let you know

Cheers
 
That is what i meant about numptys, they seem to take an age to explain things, but have had some good stuff from their in the past. A lot more diesels out there so more to go wrong. It also seems they dont have alot of different diesels to pick from so most of the German cars they have Audi's, VW's, Skoda's all seem to be running the same engine. Same here but just on a large scale.
 
Cobra88 said:
Hi Adam

It might be worth removing all the redundant vacuum hoses from your tdi to eliminate leaks.
you don't have EGR now so both the other solrnoids are pointless.

leave all the valves plugged in electrically.

I even dumped the Vac resevior ball.
N75 Picture

Ve_Tdi_Vac.jpg

Just 3 pipes now

Just fit the non return valve onto the Brake Vac pump nipple
Here is a diagram of how mine is connected and i get much less boost creep/overboost and no limp mode

Regards
Rick
Click to expand...


Did this last night, has made quite a bit of difference, stilllimp modes but a very quiet hiss can be heard, cant quite lay me ear on it yet.

Hopefully me coolant sensor will come tonight aswel, so see how that goes.

Cheers again Rick ya a good un
 
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