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Thread: Brazil S3 thread progress

  1. #1
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    Brazil S3 thread progress

    Hi fellows, I decide to start one thread showing the progress of my s3. (I had showed it here in past but now I will take more serious the up grades and the post follow up)

    So it is a 2001/2002 AMK silver s3, it has only 70000 km on it. My goal is to use it on track day but also keep it comfort to use on weekends without wife complaining! Hahah

    So far the mods are:
    Forge intake hose
    ebc yellow stuff pads
    madnex 3" stainless steel catback
    advan neova tires

    Next thing coming:
    Liquid gauges
    Remap

    Here are some pics:


















    I hope to reach 260 hp after remap, what are your thoughts? Easy to get it?

    Thanks
    Last edited by voorhees; 22nd July 2012 at 07:30.

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  3. #2
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    nice tidy car.
    what does the exhaust sound like? looks good.

    if the car is healthy then 260 might be possible, depends who tunes it and how far they go. any filter upgrades?
    get a jetex on there for the remap. a badger5 Intake pipe would massively increase your chances of 260hp.

    i imagine its very hot where you are alot of the time.
    heat kills power over here with a generic remap so it will be worse for you. consider a FMIC, expecially if you want to use it on track

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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    nice tidy car.
    what does the exhaust sound like? looks good.

    if the car is healthy then 260 might be possible, depends who tunes it and how far they go. any filter upgrades?
    get a jetex on there for the remap. a badger5 Intake pipe would massively increase your chances of 260hp.

    i imagine its very hot where you are alot of the time.
    heat kills power over here with a generic remap so it will be worse for you. consider a FMIC, expecially if you want to use it on track

    Thanks! Have a video of the exhaust, but it was not good quality I set the go pro wrong:



    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3uXQozxuA9U


    About the badger I thought this forge inlet pipe would solve, this is what I have:

    Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

    My car never runed hoter than 90c, but I see your concern I will think about the FIC!


    Thanks!
    Pedrosousa likes this.

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    Looks well,like the twin of mine it looks a really clean car,is that an alcantara steering wheel? nice!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shane-Ireland View Post
    Looks well,like the twin of mine it looks a really clean car,is that an alcantara steering wheel? nice!
    Thanks! the steering wheel is alcantara, I order the alcantara from e-bay and had a guy in Brazil replacing the leather. It feels 100% better, looks great! Plus it is very functional at track day wearing race gloves!

    thank you

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    Quote Originally Posted by rmpreto View Post
    Thanks! the steering wheel is alcantara, I order the alcantara from e-bay and had a guy in Brazil replacing the leather. It feels 100% better, looks great! Plus it is very functional at track day wearing race gloves!

    thank you
    It looks really great,any close up pics of the steering wheel?

  8. #7
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    Here a close from steering wheel:


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    Oh yeah that's done it - now i must go clean up lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shane-Ireland View Post
    Oh yeah that's done it - now i must go clean up lol

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    Steering wheel looks brilliant.

    As Karl said, a FMIC would be a good idea. When you said you've not run hotter then 90 I assume you mean the coolant temp on the dash board? This will get over 100 on the road and track but the actual gauge doesn't move.

    When you get a liquid gauge fitted you'll be able to see what you're inlet temps are. These will get very hot on track with standard side mount intercoolers.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    Steering wheel looks brilliant.

    As Karl said, a FMIC would be a good idea. When you said you've not run hotter then 90 I assume you mean the coolant temp on the dash board? This will get over 100 on the road and track but the actual gauge doesn't move.

    When you get a liquid gauge fitted you'll be able to see what you're inlet temps are. These will get very hot on track with standard side mount intercoolers.
    Westy, first I have to say that your thread is awesome and very useful.

    I see your point about the FMIC, makes sense. thank you

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    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dKQ39MWPwNI


    While the next upgrade and progress are not done, please watch my video from last track day, I think it is a decent performance for an OEM car.

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    Magnex Catback

    Hi , one of the changes I made to my car was to instal one plug and play catback system, I got a Magnex piece (I see that most of people here for for miltek). To be honest I like the exhaust, easy to instal sound good, video is above, and price was good!


    Here are more detail pictures:







    Is that less efficient than miltek one?

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    New parts!

    Hi fellows just arrived new parts looking forward to install them
    Liquid gauge



    Hella super ton horn



    I bought a set of volk rays and to install it I will use lug nuts and spacer



    To give an idea of the wheels here is a picture





    One question my intention is to pay the wheel in mat withe, shoul I do it or keep it gold?

    Cheers!

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    not gold its no a Subaru.. its an Audi so keep it nice and classy :P

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevv View Post
    not gold its no a Subaru.. its an Audi so keep it nice and classy :P
    Ok i agree!

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    After fit my liquid gauge, i thinki have a problem!

    I just fit my liquid gauge, and it is as good as all review say, really worth it!


    But after check few number I think I have a problem, they are:
    Turbo boost 1.4 bar or 20psi
    Engineer power 225bhp (mine is an AMK)
    Intake temperature 68C

    So I think everyone was right, the FMIC is necessary, but what is scaried me is the boost with such amount of boos I. Should have more bhp?

    thoughts?????

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    My AMK is stage 1, 235bhp and peak boost is 19psi.

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    When mine was revo stage 1 it was only producing 235bhp at 19psi. My problem was my old tired turbo. Yours might not be as severe, it could be just a boost leak somewhere.
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  21. #20
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    the liquids bhp is calculated from the airflow. i bet if you log airflow in vcds it will equate to 235hp.
    so its possible your maf is a tad under reading, worth a clean and/or new one. or use someone elses off another 1.8t.

    thats my theory anyway.

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    So I believe, that the expected would be 235 hp, wich is nice! Can you guys tell me the Torque peak? (I forget my real number but it was either 33nm or 35 nm)

    In other to investigate were is my 10 bph missing I will check for any leak as Westy suggested, and install a new MAF. I think it is a good stating point! Thank you all!

  23. #22
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    VAG errors

    Hi all!

    I did remind that liquid gauge can read VAG errors, so today I did check it out, here is what I found:

    17526
    17704
    17608
    17522

    So what are your thoughts? I never had any contact with VAG faults before, is it bad?

    Thank you

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    From Ross-Tech: Home

    17526/P1118/004376 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2: Open Circuit

    Possible Symptoms

    • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) faulty
    Possible Causes

    • Wiring/Connectors from/to Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating faulty
    • Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating Circuit faulty
    Possible Solutions

    • Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating
    • Check Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating Circuit


    17704/P1296/004758 - Error in Mapped Cooling System

    Possible Symptoms

    • Cold start issues
    Possible Causes

    • Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) faulty
    • Coolant Thermostat faulty
    Possible Solutions

    • Check Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)
    • Check Coolant Thermostat
    Special Notes

    • Check the stored Freeze Frame data with this fault code. Freeze Frame information will be found in the fault code description (if the module supports it) or in Generic OBD-II if the vehicle complies with those regulations.
      • Freeze Frame data stored at -40*C is generally an indication of a faulty ECT or wiring.
      • Freeze Frame data stored at +140*C is generally an indication of a faulty ECT or wiring.
      • Freeze Frame data stored with in the 68*C ~ 80*C range is an indication that the vehicle was close to, but not within, the cooling systems normal operation range. The Thermostat itself or Cooling system components may be at fault.


    17608/P1200/004608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction

    Possible Symptoms

    • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
    • Power Loss
    Possible Causes

    • Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) faulty
    • Diverter Valve faulty
    Possible Solutions

    • Check / Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    • Check / Replace Diverter Valve


    17522/P1114 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High

    Possible Symptoms

    • MIL On
    Possible Causes

    • Faulty O2 Sensor
    • Wiring Harness Issue for O2 Sensor
    Possible Solutions

    • Inspect O2 Sensor and Wiring Harness. See Repair Manual.

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    Doesn't look too major, but they do require attention IMO.

    Change your lambda sensors, Change N249 valve, Upgrade DV to Forge 007p or 008, Change G62, Change Thermostat.

    Re-run error code checking and let us know!

  26. #25
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    ha, change this change that. i admire your free will to throw away money.

    check your lambda sensor wiring, may be a split.
    have you done the n249 bypass? if not, do it. if you have, leave it electronically connected still.
    is your car getting to 90degrees? does it ever read wrong?

  27. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nogmeister View Post
    From Ross-Tech: Home

    17526/P1118/004376 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2: Open Circuit

    Possible Symptoms


    • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) faulty
    Possible Causes


    • Wiring/Connectors from/to Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating faulty
    • Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating Circuit faulty
    Possible Solutions


    • Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating
    • Check Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heating Circuit

    17704/P1296/004758 - Error in Mapped Cooling System

    Possible Symptoms


    • Cold start issues
    Possible Causes


    • Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) faulty
    • Coolant Thermostat faulty
    Possible Solutions


    • Check Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)
    • Check Coolant Thermostat
    Special Notes


    • Check the stored Freeze Frame data with this fault code. Freeze Frame information will be found in the fault code description (if the module supports it) or in Generic OBD-II if the vehicle complies with those regulations.
      • Freeze Frame data stored at -40*C is generally an indication of a faulty ECT or wiring.
      • Freeze Frame data stored at +140*C is generally an indication of a faulty ECT or wiring.
      • Freeze Frame data stored with in the 68*C ~ 80*C range is an indication that the vehicle was close to, but not within, the cooling systems normal operation range. The Thermostat itself or Cooling system components may be at fault.

    17608/P1200/004608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction

    Possible Symptoms


    • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
    • Power Loss
    Possible Causes


    • Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) faulty
    • Diverter Valve faulty
    Possible Solutions


    • Check / Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    • Check / Replace Diverter Valve

    17522/P1114 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High

    Possible Symptoms


    • MIL On
    Possible Causes


    • Faulty O2 Sensor
    • Wiring Harness Issue for O2 Sensor
    Possible Solutions


    • Inspect O2 Sensor and Wiring Harness. See Repair Manual.
    Thanks a lot that was. Very complete reply!

  28. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    ha, change this change that. i admire your free will to throw away money.

    check your lambda sensor wiring, may be a split.
    have you done the n249 bypass? if not, do it. if you have, leave it electronically connected still.
    is your car getting to 90degrees? does it ever read wrong?

    At lambada I will check the wire if still neccassary I will change it (what is the part number?)
    I will do the bypass, is there any "how to" here?
    car never ran over 90 expected once that the fuse burn and Cooling fan didnt worked!

    Thanks a lot!

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    Really nice car. I moved to Brazil and then moved back to the UK recently. I couldn't believe the prices of cars over there, it's mental.

    For anyone that doesn't know, an S3 like that would cost you around £20,000 GBP in Brazil.

    Where in Brazil are you?

  30. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Escy View Post
    Really nice car. I moved to Brazil and then moved back to the UK recently. I couldn't believe the prices of cars over there, it's mental.

    For anyone that doesn't know, an S3 like that would cost you around £20,000 GBP in Brazil.

    Where in Brazil are you?
    cheers. ESCY

    You are absolute right, the car here cost a lot more than in London, or Europe!

    I am from Sao Paulo! Have you been here?

  31. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nogmeister View Post
    Doesn't look too major, but they do require attention IMO.

    Change your lambda sensors, Change N249 valve, Upgrade DV to Forge 007p or 008, Change G62, Change Thermostat.

    Re-run error code checking and let us know!
    You don't need to change the N249 for the "17608/P1200/004608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction" fault... this is a symptom of an N249 bypass or DV fault... the fault code is thrown because the ECU has tried to dump boost using the N249/DV (which is what its there for) but hasn't seen the drop in boost its expecting so throws this fault suggesting there is a fault in the mechanism that allows the ECU to dump boost when it wants to...

    If you have done an N249 bypass then it suggests you have problems elsewhere and this is symptomatic of that... If you have not done an N249 bypass then I would look at your DV... if the N249 was faulty I would expect to see open circuit/short circuit type fault codes specific to the N249

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  32. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    You don't need to change the N249 for the "17608/P1200/004608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction" fault... this is a symptom of an N249 bypass or DV fault... the fault code is thrown because the ECU has tried to dump boost using the N249/DV (which is what its there for) but hasn't seen the drop in boost its expecting so throws this fault suggesting there is a fault in the mechanism that allows the ECU to dump boost when it wants to...

    If you have done an N249 bypass then it suggests you have problems elsewhere and this is symptomatic of that... If you have not done an N249 bypass then I would look at your DV... if the N249 was faulty I would expect to see open circuit/short circuit type fault codes specific to the N249

    <tuffty/>
    thanks Tuffy and all!

    i am getting a little confused now! to be honest i think i don't know enough about what we are talking about, so i would like to request more explanation (sorry guys!)

    First i would like to tell you what are my goals for the car regarding this bunch of tubes under to engine cover (i hate them and one of the is leaking air! may be that is the fault reason):

    1st- i want by pass the N249
    2nd- i want do a catch oil can also.

    here are my questions:

    what is DV? should i include this "DV" change to my list above? (i really prefer to have things upgrade, so even if it is expensive i may do it, if you guys agree that is a good change)
    Should i just go ahead get my list done and run the vag com again and see if the errors are gone?

    thank you all, i feel like i own the forum a lot!

  33. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmpreto View Post
    thanks Tuffy and all!

    i am getting a little confused now! to be honest i think i don't know enough about what we are talking about, so i would like to request more explanation (sorry guys!)

    First i would like to tell you what are my goals for the car regarding this bunch of tubes under to engine cover (i hate them and one of the is leaking air! may be that is the fault reason):

    1st- i want by pass the N249
    2nd- i want do a catch oil can also.

    here are my questions:

    what is DV? should i include this "DV" change to my list above? (i really prefer to have things upgrade, so even if it is expensive i may do it, if you guys agree that is a good change)
    Should i just go ahead get my list done and run the vag com again and see if the errors are gone?

    thank you all, i feel like i own the forum a lot!
    do you know what and where the n249 is?
    it is a small valve, combined with a small vaccum box and various pipes, on top of the engine, covers 1 or 2 of the coil packs which is a pain. the valve, as tuffty says, connects the dv to the inlet manifold.

    the DV, diverter valve or dump valve, is what emtptys the boost system back into the intake.

    with the fault codes you have, either of the two could be faulty.

    this may help with the bypass of the n249 valve:
    N249 Bypass on a 2001 AMK car ( with a BAM engine if it makes any odds)

    as for the DV, most people will advise upgrading it to a forge 007p valve:
    Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication
    for reliability.

    id do the bypass first, make sure the n249 is still connected electronically. and if you still have a fault that would indicate the DV is broke, which is likely with such an old part. id also upgrade the DV to the one listed, but if yours works, its not urgent, or essential until you start tuning.

  34. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    do you know what and where the n249 is?
    it is a small valve, combined with a small vaccum box and various pipes, on top of the engine, covers 1 or 2 of the coil packs which is a pain. the valve, as tuffty says, connects the dv to the inlet manifold.

    the DV, diverter valve or dump valve, is what emtptys the boost system back into the intake.

    with the fault codes you have, either of the two could be faulty.

    this may help with the bypass of the n249 valve:
    N249 Bypass on a 2001 AMK car ( with a BAM engine if it makes any odds)

    as for the DV, most people will advise upgrading it to a forge 007p valve:
    Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication
    for reliability.

    id do the bypass first, make sure the n249 is still connected electronically. and if you still have a fault that would indicate the DV is broke, which is likely with such an old part. id also upgrade the DV to the one listed, but if yours works, its not urgent, or essential until you start tuning.

    thanks! i was following the bypass post made by tuffty, i think i will do it!

    since i ma going to USA in couple weeks, i think i will take advantage of forge have a dealer there and order all forge stuff and replace my pressure hoses and also get a new DV. i hope it all fix my issues!

    thanks a lot guys

  35. #34
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    Good luck with it pal

  36. #35
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    Part Number

    Hi all! again I am taking your time to request help!

    can you please tell me the part number for:

    S3 MAF
    S3 lambda sensors
    Coolant temperature sensor (G62)
    Coolant thermostat

    thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rmpreto View Post
    cheers. ESCY

    You are absolute right, the car here cost a lot more than in London, or Europe!

    I am from Sao Paulo! Have you been here?
    Only to the airport. I lived in Joao Pessoa. There weren't any S3's up there. It'd always see them in SP and Rio when looking on Mercardo Livre.

    Even A3's are a bit of a rare sight up North.

    The car situation was so bad in Brazil, it was one of the reasons I couldn't settle.

  38. #37
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    you are right our cost of life and car are crazy!

    thanks you

 

 

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