Lorryz S3 8l

lorryz

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Hey Guys,

I'm pretty new to the forum, but I tend to spend many hours reading builds and searching for ideas. So I figured id start a 'build' or progress thread.
Hopefully this thread will help someone new like myself. But I'm mainly doing it, to stop myself from posting this stuff on my facebook and boring everyone I know.
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To start out, I bought a 2003 Dolphin Grey S3 8l with barely 100kms on the clock. It was mint and 100% stock.

Its my first VAG (and Euro) car and coming from a modded Subaru. I wasn't sure if I wanted to mod it or not, since it was very clean, refined and 'Stock'. Plus, parts are about 3x more expensive.

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About 3 weeks later I came home with these. A complete Brembo kit including pads and near new rotors.
It was an absolute steal and I couldn't resist.

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The paint needed a bit of attention and against better judgement, I went for Boy-racer Red over Stealth Black.
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After I bolted them to the car, I was very impressed.
Huge improvement in feel and at the end of the day, they looked amazing.
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Next, I decided to address a boost leek/ ruff idle/ hesitation issue I had.

I replaced the stock plastic DV with a Forge 008p DV.
First things first, Its a great product. I would recommend to anyone and it sorted the boost leek.
Even if you don't have a faulty DV, its worth upgrading. Just saying.

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However, I still had a few hesitation.
I didn't pay much attention to them as I didn't have the time to fiddle with the car.

Eventually cylinder 1 died about 30k's from home when I was on my way to uni.
After a quick Google search at the side of the road. I narrowed it down to 3 things. MAF, Coil pack or some sort of catastrophic failure
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.

After unplugging MAF and finding no change, I moved onto the Coils. I noticed that cylinder 2 had been changed recently.
I unplugged cylinder 1 and found not change in the ruff running /shaking off the car.
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I limped the car home, got the coils changed over the weekend. Sorted.

No more ruff idle or hesitations.
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Next I turned my attention to the Dogbone Mount.
I went for a Yellow Powerflex Poly Bush for the Audi a3/S3 8L 4wd, Golf mk4 awd, TT etc

It's one of the easiest mods I've done to a car, and it had such a positive effect.
Plus its only like $30 on ebay, no excuse really not to do it.

When I took the dogbone apart, the OEM rubber fell apart in my hand. It was very over due for a change.
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A lot of people buy the Red Poly bush for the Diesels a3, because its a softer bush and they believe it results in less vibration.
However, if you use the correct torque settings (like I did), you shouldn't have any real issues with vibration.

What did it do?: It made the gear changes more positive and tighter. Again for very little money, its a good mod.
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Next Mod, I changed my old 6 speed Gear knob over to the newer S3 8p Knob.

Visually I think it looks great, I kept my stock gator on as this required no modification, but you could fit the newer one in 5 minutes.

Physically, the gear knob is slightly shorter and fatter. Really good to grip onto.

Really, the only bad thing about this mod is the cost. Its expensive for a gear knob.

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Next mod to come is a Stack Boost Gauge and pillar mount.

Ive bought just about everything needed for the install, including a spare pillar trim piece to hack up.

The only thing i haven't decided on is weather to wrap it in OEM headliner to match the pillar trim. Or to paint it Piano gloss black, to match the center console and door handle inserts.

I'm also considering a the mk4 twin column pod, as I think they look good.

Anyway, here it is so far.

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The most recent mod is my new Milltek non resonated Catback, with the special Tips.

I do have to thank Sam, for doing all the legwork in finding the best deal (In Aus) and posting the information in his thread.
If your interested, you should speak to Dave @ ATPG (He's based in NZ). It was a good deal IMO.


My first impression of the exhaust, "Very quiet".
For some reason I expected the same noise I got from my 5" fart cannon off my Subaru. I had to stop and check that they didn't fit a resonated one by mistake. :think:


The Milltek has stated to grow on me, yes its quiet, but you can definitely hear it when you put your foot down. More importantly, its changed the sound for the exhaust to a nice deep note.

Overall, money well spent. :laugh:


It needs a good clean and the weather hasn't been kind. But these pic's should do for now.
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And just some more pictures, till I buy something else.

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Great thread mate car looks fantastic! Don't change it keep it! Love the gear knob pic looked massive from the angle picture was taken lol
 
Looking good mate. I'll have to organise a Sydney meet up once I've got my latest bits on and this weather gets a bit nicer :/
 
Great thread mate car looks fantastic! Don't change it keep it! Love the gear knob pic looked massive from the angle picture was taken lol
Cheers, Yeah I cheated a bit with a fisheye lense.

Looking good! Gone for a remap yet?
Not yet, I want to sort out a fmic and tip (maybe dump/hiflow cat) before i get it mapped. I only want to do it once.:laugh:

Looking good mate. I'll have to organise a Sydney meet up once I've got my latest bits on and this weather gets a bit nicer :/

Thanks Sam, sounds good to me.
 
Pretty impressive work. Good, interesting thread with lots of information and pics, very well done. :) x
 
What route are you going with the FMIC? If I was doing mine again, I'd just go down the Wagner route I think. A fit and forget kit...

You can get it for about $1k landed.
 
I looked at getting a custom made up, but I dont think its worth the headache.

The forge one looks pretty good, but shipping costs will probably kill it.

Yeah I was thinking Wagner the way to go too, just because of the legal issues involved in modding the front bar.
Plus it looks like a quality kit.
 
I think you'd have to be doing something pretty daft to get caught and I think to be fair they aren't looking for subtly modified Audi's. It's the badly/unsafe modded Silvias/Skylines/WRXs they tend to target I think? Loads of mods are meant to be engineered and aren't. It's worse than TUV here.
 
Yeah, I guess I'm a bit paranoid. I used to get RBT'd every second weekend. ( worked nights and had a popular rbt zone between work and home).

Plus my car did look and sound like and easy target.
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Yeah true - To be fair, you can hardly see my intercooler and it just looks like a power steering rad or the rad itself. I was worried too. I think the exhaust is the biggest giveaway now. The brakes might too when they are on but at least they are black!
 
Haha, yeah ive considered returning my brakes back to black again. But i dont think i can be bothered now.
Maybe when i have nothing better to do.
 
as long as S3 owner dont start doing daft **** in and around syndey i think S3 should be the ultimate sleeper car.. and yes i would advise you painting them block as i did :D.. nice car its great look

@Sam yes we should organize a meet but let me get my FMIC and Coilies fitted first :p
 
Looks great, surely there's some one in oz who can replicate the Welly cooler or ah fabs v2 intercooler.

milltek wise, get a 3 inch downpipe and Decat and you'll be smiling :)
 
Just a quick update.

Had a package arrive yesterday while I was at work, I got round to opening it this morning.

Its my new Badger 5 v2 TIP, as you can see, its a full 80mm from end to end, with no restriction on the turbo end.

I'm sure most of you are very familiar with it, and probably know more about it than me, so I wont bother explaining its benefits here.:laugh:

I took a few photos of the alloy billet adaptor and grub screw, as I was a bit confused before buying, about how many there were and if the grub screw was included in the kit (not sure why I thought they wouldn't be, but for some reason I did :ermm:).

So to confirm, you get everything you need to fit, save for the silicon and tools needed.

I also picked up some high temp Ultra Copper Silicon this morning, so hopefully I can get it fitted this afternoon.

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Looks like the v2 billet adapter has some extra length to clamp the silicon hose to. Should be easier to fit than the V1 then :) That was a bit of a pig to get the bottom hose on...
 
So I got round to fitting the TIP today.
I was pretty terrified about the audi-clips after tackling the shifter clip (that was a good 20minute event). But once you figure out how to do it, they are dead easy.

Overall, it was a pretty smooth install.

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Its amazing how much the b5 dwarfs the oem tip
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No shaft play and it spins freely. I'm pretty happy with my turbo. :laugh:
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All fitted, after butchering the end of the tip. I will clean it up later.
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Unfortunately, there was some bad news.
1. There is quite a lot of oil/gunk coming from this half moon spot on the engine.
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2. More annoyingly, when I was rearranging the pipes on top of the engine to fit the cover. One of the plastic tubes cracked. :banghead:

Im not really sure what its for or what its called. It has "PWO >PEBA< 03-34-02" written on it. I don't know if this is a part number or not ( it doesn't look like a vin No. to me. ). If you have any information on this or advice. I would appreciate it.


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I went between the Rubber 'Y' on the middle left and the rubber hose on pointing up on the right.
(bad pic, I know)
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Alright I just figured it out (Im slowly learning haha).

So the plastic hose I broke is part of the N249 valve crap. I could replace it, or for less money (probably), I could do the N249 bypass and get rid of all that junk.

Hopefully my local auto shop has some black vacuum hose in stock and I can get this mess sorted
 
you'll be happier with it gone mate... its better.. i did it on mine
 
I have completed The N249 bypass and everything is back in working order.

I used Welly's DIY in the stickys to complete this mod.

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/general-technical-how/84402-n249-bypass-how-2000-s3-but-same-many.html

But it really is as simple as connecting the Diverter valve to the manifold via a 4mm internal diameter vacuum hose. Removing all the excess hosing and leaving the N249 valve plugged in (not connected to any hoses ) to keep the ecu happy.

The Pros and Cons to this mod:

Pros: It sharpens up DV response and eliminates the possibility of the ECU dumping boost mid rev.

Cons: Limits the ways that the ECU has to control overboost (although the N75 & MAP sensor will keep the ECU in the know and in control). Also, it removes one of the ways that the Traction Control uses to limit power.


Below you can see the N249 in the middle, plugged in with the hoses disconnected. And I have just run the new vacuum up the left and around the top of the N249 towards the DV.
I could easily clean it up more and relocate the N249. But its all hidden by the engine cover, so I didn't see the point in worrying about it.
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All looking OEM.
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Everything I have done thus far, has been about performance before cost.

I felt it was very important to continue this philosophy when it came to choosing my short shifter. As it is one of the major focus points of any performance car.

So in the end, I opted for the DieselGeek Sigma 6 Speed Short Shift Kit.

It is probably one of the most expensive shifters on the market, but it is something I would recommend.
Although, I cant say its better than any other shifter, as I have no experience any other after market shifter kit.

I can compare it to the OEM shifter, and so far the difference has been like night and day.

It feels a lot tighter and the throws (in all directions) are pretty close to perfect (IMO :laugh: ).
It has gotten a bit stiffer (but it feels right) and the changes feel more snickety, which I like a lot.

My car is a daily driver, so I was a bit worried that a fully solid shifter ( No rubber or plastics on this kit) would be a bit uncomfortable.
However, I haven't noticed any change in road noise, and having solid mounts has made the shifting very precise (a win/win).

So overall, it cant be beat ( just a bit expensive).


I love the attention to detail on this shifter.
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The OEM shifter, with Rubber and plastic bushings.
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A battery terminal puller is a must. Made it so easy.
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All the old bits removed, looking a bit grubby.
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Install complete and looking good.
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I run the same one and am an advocate for it. The fact it replaces the ends too is awesome. Along with shortening all directions.

It gets better over time, it wears in a little.
 
This is going to be a bit of a boring update for some. Got loads of new parts incoming from the US and UK. So hopefully the next one will be a little more glamorous.

My car has been leaking a little bit of oil from the half moon gaskets and cam cover gasket for while now. (approx 1L every few months). So while I had the cover off, I decided to give it a new lick of paint and relocate the N249 valve off the top of the engine.

Note: The VVT/CCT (half moon) gasket + cam cover gasket are quite easy to swap out. Loads of tutorials on the net on how to do it.
However, it took me a lot longer than I thought it would. A lot of things had to be moved, in order to gain access.

Give yourself plenty of time!

Tutorial I used: How-to: 1.8T Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket replacement

How my engine bay looked.
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The insides of my BAM.
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Before Paint.
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After 6 coats of VHT cam cover paint. Then some time in the oven to set.
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Cover back on, N249 valve relocated and full access to the coil packs.
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And here is a good reason not to over tighten the CC studs.
Lucky for me, its not leaking. But it is something I will have to address in the future...
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Oh nice one, you got it done :) I found it a bit of a fiddly job! I also found that one of my bolts (rear left) didn't want to tighten down so was either already ******** or happened during removal. Seems to be leak free though.
 
Oh nice one, you got it done :) I found it a bit of a fiddly job! I also found that one of my bolts (rear left) didn't want to tighten down so was either already ******** or happened during removal. Seems to be leak free though.

Yeah, it's not fun haha.
I just have to check/replace my PCV system, then I can start hunting power :p
 
This weekend I upgraded the lights from stock.
I went for 6000k Morimoto D2S bulbs, as they get pretty good reviews and are about 1/3 of the price of the genuine Philips HID bulbs.

Only photo I could find of the stock lights.
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Morimoto bulbs, Led side lights and Led Fog lights. All a prefect 6000k match.
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I also purchased some new rims.
18" Oz Racing Canyons, I haven't seen these fitted to an S3 yet. So hopefully it will be a bit unique.
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This weekend I upgraded the lights from stock.
I went for 6000k Morimoto D2S bulbs, as they get pretty good reviews and are about 1/3 of the price of the genuine Philips HID bulbs.

that looks REALLY good mate.. where did you pick em up from ? as i was quoted i think 120pounds and thats from the UK!!!!! my jaw dropped
 
that looks REALLY good mate.. where did you pick em up from ? as i was quoted i think 120pounds and thats from the UK!!!!! my jaw dropped

Whoah, I didn't pay 120pounds.
I got them from The retrofit source in the US. I think they have a ebay listing as well.

These are the ebay links, for anyone thats interested:

The retrofit source (TRS) HID's
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d�r

The Side lights (perfect match)
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d�r

H7 6000k LED Fog lights (perfect match)
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d�r
 
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I need to do this and along with all the other led bulbs to freshen the car a little...
 
same here i gotta do all the lights... btw Lorryz im assuming they come in packs of two or are sold individually ?
 
Lorry z I'm really admiring ure thread, top Mann!
I'd like 2 see pic with new rimz wen u get them on :D
 
Looks good some nice mods

Lorry z I'm really admiring ure thread, top Mann!
I'd like 2 see pic with new rimz wen u get them on :D

Cheers guys, The wheels will be on soon, I just need to sort out some adaptors.

same here i gotta do all the lights... btw Lorryz im assuming they come in packs of two or are sold individually ?

Yep, all the bulbs came in pairs Sevv.
 

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