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  1. #1
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    car refusing to start after injector clean

    Any advice given is much appreciated
    As the title states
    Cleaned the injectors(ultrasonic cleaner)
    Left to dry for a couple of hours.
    Put the car back together, took it for a spin bit jerky but then cleared up and was ok(last night)
    today Went to get the car cleaned a few miles away.
    They cleaned the car, when i drove away the car start jerking (sounded like she was running on 3) the orange engine light started flickering.
    Thought just get me home(5 miles).
    nope orange light came on permantley and the epc light came on, the revs going up and down and then she conked out and is refusing to start.
    Any ideas?

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  3. #2
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    Sounds like coilpack issues, but it would start even if one was gone. What car is it?
    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    its either mapped or broken...

  4. #3
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    First port of call would be a scan for fault codes if you can...

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  5. #4
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    Thanks for the replies
    the car is apy 2000 s3
    And yes will get car scanned and report back with codes and hope this months pocket money wont be blown.
    guy who cleaned the car opened my doors and tailgate then cleaned the seals and lower doors with his jet washer.
    Which kinda freaked me out, always been wiped at other car washes.

  6. #5
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    I've cleaned about 6 sets of S3 injectors in my ultra sonic bath now and never had an issue but I guess you could still break a weak injector. Be interesting to see what fault codes you get.
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  7. #6
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    so a little update on this
    scanned car, but it wouldnt communicate with the ecu.
    no comms with the gearbox, or engine management, but got comms with the abs system.
    This was done with a snap on diagnostics system. its has scanned this car before and was ok.
    Took ecu out and it was full of water grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

  8. #7
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    any suggestions or fixs for this?

  9. #8
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    smack the crap out of the noob who cleaned your car

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tubby-ben View Post
    smack the crap out of the noob who cleaned your car
    That... And a sh*tload of WD40 and stick it in the airing cupboard or on a radiator for a while... Should be ok then

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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  11. #10
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    Oh and if you're wondering how to safely take it off... Take the battery negative off and leave it for 20-30 mins or so, then unbolt it, unplug it and do your stuff

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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  12. #11
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    thanks, luckily i have a can of wd40 handy.
    i have taken the back of the ecu and board was damp.
    Should i just spray the whole thing with wd including the board?

  13. #12
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    Yes mate, as long as it's totally dry when you put it back on the car, it will be fine. WD40 is none conductive so It wont short anything out... Plus it drives out moisture, which is what you need it for. All should be ok after that

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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  14. #13
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    How the f**k have they done that to the ecu?
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  15. #14
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    My guess is you payed an extra £5 for an engine bay clean?.. lol

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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  16. #15
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    nope the bonnet never went up.
    as mentioned above (first post) doors shuts with pressure washer?

  17. #16
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    sorry my second post

  18. #17
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    That really should t soak the ecu like that though surely?
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  19. #18
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    its the only place it could have, i will have to check all the seals.
    im just hoping the drying out works.
    otherwise another ecu and remap, more fcuking money i aint got.

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    and the place of the said hand car wash is new addington industrial estate near croydon
    just in case your passing that way and fancy a wash, dont bother

  21. #20
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    I knew the trusty Injectors would be fine with a clean
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  22. #21
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    ok update, dried out and the car wont start.
    when i turn the ignition on the epc light does not light up.
    are there any relays or ecu ones?
    i have checked all the fuses next to the drivers door and the ones on top of the battery.
    otherwise another ecu.
    This is a link to one ive found on the bay, same as mine but my last letter on the ecu is n not k
    Audi A3 S3 8L apy engine ecu breaking spares parts | eBay or if any one knows of one let me know pls.
    same serial as the above but n being last letter not k

  23. #22
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    another update
    went out to check voltage to ecu, turn the key car started, came up with about 100 codes cleared them,
    the car was running rough and the engine light flickered and flickered even more when reved.
    these codes came up 17931 crash signal from air bag ecu inplausable signal p1523.
    0053 supply voltage B+ to low intermittent.
    cleared them.
    Then this one 18017 crash shut down activated p1609
    now car wont start again arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
    any ideas
    ive managed to source another ecu if all fails.
    Thanks in advance for your help

  24. #23
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    Has water got into the sensors or wiring to the front or side impact detectors?

    Shorts caused by water could trigge those faults?
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  25. #24
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    thanks that could be the cause.
    Idiot who cleaned my car opened the doors a used a pressure washer to clean the seals and lower doors.
    door panels off and hair dryer time

  26. #25
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    does anyone know if i can clear this code somehow 18017 crash shut down activated p1609.
    is it a main dealer job?

  27. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jezzy View Post
    does anyone know if i can clear this code somehow 18017 crash shut down activated p1609.
    is it a main dealer job?
    Have you read this?

    18017/P1609/005641 - Ross-Tech Wiki

    If you swap ECU I think you need the ignition barrel and the dash cluster or you'll have a load of immobiliser issues.
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  28. #27
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    yes i have thanks, the ecu will have the immobilser removed, so the car will start.
    i have just noticed the the car symbol with the key in it comes on now for a couple of seconds then goes off, but the epc light is now flickering in tandom with a clicking noise from in the engine?
    when it clicks the epc clicks with it without the noise if you understand what i mean.

  29. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by jezzy View Post
    yes i have thanks, the ecu will have the immobilser removed, so the car will start.
    i have just noticed the the car symbol with the key in it comes on now for a couple of seconds then goes off, but the epc light is now flickering in tandom with a clicking noise from in the engine?
    when it clicks the epc clicks with it without the noise if you understand what i mean.
    The "car with key" light is the imo light to show that the imo has detected a coded key. It's meant to go off after about 5 seconds.
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  30. #29
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    thanks yes the light goes off after about 5 secs, never noticed it before all the issues im having.
    Cant understand the clicking noise though, thought it was coming from the injector rail?
    im supposed to be going camping (get pissed all week) tomorrow.
    just hope the other ecu if i need it works

  31. #30
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    Have a read of this mate:

    It's a non starter

    reesy had the same issues last week and it turned out to be a burnt out fuse board.
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  32. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    Have you read this?

    18017/P1609/005641 - Ross-Tech Wiki

    If you swap ECU I think you need the ignition barrel and the dash cluster or you'll have a load of immobiliser issues.
    Immo defeat or dealer recode will sort it...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  33. #32
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    thanks for the replies. i have read ressys thread, what pain that must have been,
    The fuse board is ok phew.
    ive located the clicking noise to the butterfly in the throttle body.
    When i turn the ignition on the butterfly just keeps opening and shutting making the clicking noise, the epc clicks in tandom with the butterfly?
    ive looked the problem up on google but no joy, anyone else had this issue.
    And when scanned yeterday it had the throttle body adaptation reset.
    yes we did it, wonder if this is the problem?
    Thanks for your help

  34. #33
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    update, came back from a few days away, got vcds lite and plugged in and every code ever appeared, cleared all of them and she fired up and ran fine.
    But the mil light is still flickering, when i rev her the mil light comes on full and when i let off the throttle the mil light goes off, then at idle the mil light starts flickering again.
    the epc light does come intermittently and she idles irratically but only for a second. then she idles normally.
    No fault codes though.
    Could this be the sensors on the pedal?
    Any ideas?
    any help is much appreciated

  35. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jezzy View Post
    update, came back from a few days away, got vcds lite and plugged in and every code ever appeared, cleared all of them and she fired up and ran fine.
    But the mil light is still flickering, when i rev her the mil light comes on full and when i let off the throttle the mil light goes off, then at idle the mil light starts flickering again.
    the epc light does come intermittently and she idles irratically but only for a second. then she idles normally.
    No fault codes though.
    Could this be the sensors on the pedal?
    Any ideas?
    any help is much appreciated

    Probably can't do anything till the weekend but may be take a spin down to mine and try my spare ecu, if the lights stay on then it's a wiring loom issue if the fault buggers off then it's still your ecu. I'm thinking now though, maybe your loom got soaked and shorted?

  36. #35
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    Just an update for anyone who digs up this thread (dont you just hate it when you never know what happens and you have the same issue)
    Well the throttle body fault code was a loose connection on the throttle body,once reconnected tight no more epc light or throttle body fault code (17953-P1545).
    The car drove to BBs faultless but mil light still flickered, new ecu (thanks BB) no more flickering light.
    So Ecu must have some kind of silly short but works fine.

  37. #36
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    where is the ecu located to get wet?
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  38. #37
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    Under the windscreen, they are sealed units but if some John Wayne jet washing valet numpty decides to spray a 1000 gallons of water up there it'll stand no chance.

  39. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ste_Nova View Post
    where is the ecu located to get wet?
    Under the scuttle panel. I had a similar nightmare with my S3. Washed it and the ecu got soaked, I had a hole in the scuttle panel. The clear plastic over the chassis number was cracked. Water poured in and caused the exact same issues as described in this thread.
    Required new ECU And scuttle panel, and coding at Audi
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