****** Bose!! S3 8l

[S3 rpm]

Hi all,
Got a slight problem.i have a year 2000 s3 8l,decided to change the head unit to my pioneer Deh p6950ib
I used the harness/lead ct***au01 or something,from caraudiodirect,the one with box to stop the popping sound
however I've got all fit and working eventually but when I either turn the power off at the head unit or take the key out of the ignition it still makes a loud popping sound,I bought that lead to stop all that,anybody else got the same issue or solved it??
Am I doing something wrong?
Any help would be appreciated as its doing my head in!

My car has the full Bose system
Thanks in advance

Rich

 

[BtownA3]

Rich,

I had the same problem and found the only way to stop it was by Using Ground Loop Isolators... 2 of those bad boys and the problem was solved..... I got mine from maplins think they were a tenner each

 

[S3 rpm]

Rich,

I had the same problem and found the only way to stop it was by Using Ground Loop Isolators... 2 of those bad boys and the problem was solved..... I got mine from maplins think they were a tenner each

Thanks for the reply mate,which wires would I plumb them into? And why 2,is 1 not enough?

Thanks again

 

[Benjiman46]

Mine does it too... I'm not too bothered though, it's not all that loud tbh... If you hadn't used the car audio direct one, it would be much worse! Believe me!

Ben

 

[BtownA3]

I used one for the front one for the rear! - You should have 2 sets of Phono jacks the Ground loop isolators go between the Head Unit and the feed from the Adapter.... that probably isnt explained very well... i will try and get some pictures of my set up

 

[S3 rpm]

I know all about it,I bought the auto leads one first,was shocking so went for this one but not happy with the pop when I turn it off.
To be honest the Bose subs don't seem to be able to handle the headunit,and it doesn't sound that great anyways

If I can't sort it I'm ripping it all out and starting again probably end up getting the andymac sub,everybody on here seems happy with it.

Thanks guys

 

[S3 rpm]

Yes that wood be good to see a picture,I may be mistaken but I'm not using the phono leads(black and red) as I have the caraudiodirect lead and not the autoleads one, everything is working correctly all speakers and subs,

Am I doing something wrong then?

 

[BtownA3]

Im using the Autoleads PC9-410 which has the Phono leads on...
Autoleads PC9-410 - Audi A3, A4, A6, A8, Allroad Wiring Harness Adaptor

This coupled with the ground loop isolators works perfectly with my JVC Head Unit.... The top man is AndyMac who should see this and comment soon... I will try and get some pictures for you tomorrow of my set up

 

[AndyMac]

No you can't use the GLI's when using the speaker input adapter.
Just to be clear - there are 2 types of adapter
1. RCA input - just a straight wiring adapter takes the RCA's from your new HU and feeds them directly to the Audi harness which feeds the Bose amp. This can cause popping when changing CD track, turning the volume to zero etc.
2. Speaker input - this is a substadard solution as it uses a cheap hi-lo converter which takes the high level (already amplified) speaker output from your new HU, and converts it back down to pre-amp lo level signal which then feeds the Bose amp, which reamplifies again. So this will introduce hiss, distortion and interference but is supposed to get rid of the popping.
Interesting that people still get it when switching on/off. I would try a different brand, or go back to the RCA input adapter and use the 2 GLI's as Btown suggests which is a much better option qualitywise.

 

[S3 rpm]

No you can't use the GLI's when using the speaker input adapter.
Just to be clear - there are 2 types of adapter
1. RCA input - just a straight wiring adapter takes the RCA's from your new HU and feeds them directly to the Audi harness which feeds the Bose amp. This can cause popping when changing CD track, turning the volume to zero etc.
2. Speaker input - this is a substadard solution as it uses a cheap hi-lo converter which takes the high level (already amplified) speaker output from your new HU, and converts it back down to pre-amp lo level signal which then feeds the Bose amp, which reamplifies again. So this will introduce hiss, distortion and interference but is supposed to get rid of the popping.
Interesting that people still get it when switching on/off. I would try a different brand, or go back to the RCA input adapter and use the 2 GLI's as Btown suggests which is a much better option qualitywise.

Cheers for clearing that up andymac,I do have the other autoleads RCA setup so il give it a go with a couple of ground loop insulators,been reading that some people on here still get popping even with the gli's,you don't think it's down to the make of head unit do you?
If it still fails how do I go about wiring one of your subs in,is it a straight replacement or will I need to add a amp to power the sub?if I need to add a amp could I not just replace the one in the cubby hole or would I need to change the wiring to the added amp? In other words is the wiring that's already there suitable ?

Thanks for the help again

 

[knoxie]

you cant use the standard amp my friend i also have this problem, done a thread the otherday, i went to an audi 'approved' audio place and they rekon that they can get a lead that stops it, still waiting for the guy to get back to me...

i rekon il be waiting a lifetime tbh :-/

also if andy reads this again, if you replace the speakers do you beed to run a whole new wiring for them or can they be adapted in?

thanks knoxie

 

[sportstractor]

You need to run new wiring really, I took new cables to the rear speakers, and connected onto existing wiring in the footwells which are simple enough to trace. Bang an Andy mac sub in, some decent front component speakers and some rear coaxial and you will have a system that sounds 10x better with no popping or hissing

 

[S3 rpm]

Cheers for the help guys,managed to get it working properly tonight using the pc9-410 RCA leads and ground loop insulators
but it still doesn't sound how I'd like,really dont think the bose subs are up to much! I can see me getting the andymac sub and starting again from scratch..

While I'm here does anybody know what size speakers I'd need to fit in the doors and rear panels if I do decide to upgrade them?

Thanks
rich

 

[AndyMac]

On the Bose setup all the speakers are 4" units. Going aftermarket you need 5.25" front components with 1" tweeters and 6.5" coaxials for the rears. You need fitting adapters for front & rear. Depth is limited in the front to approx 55-60mm.

 

[a3rob]

I had exactly the same issue. Tried all the leads and had no joy or very little noise from the bean tin sub and crap rear speakers. Soooooo i now run fronts only with a decent sub in the rear. Sounds cool if you like reggae, like me haha

 

[knoxie]

i have an update on this mirracle lead.....

its £48 :-o

forgot to get a part number OH

but the guy rekons that its about twice the size of a fag packet plus wires, as there is limited room behind the head unit i thought it would e too much hassle to get it to fit...

 

[VK]

Im using the Autoleads PC9-410 which has the Phono leads on...
Autoleads PC9-410 - Audi A3, A4, A6, A8, Allroad Wiring Harness Adaptor

This coupled with the ground loop isolators works perfectly with my JVC Head Unit.... The top man is AndyMac who should see this and comment soon... I will try and get some pictures for you tomorrow of my set up

Well Done!

I've got a similar issue with popping when source is changed and when amp turned on and off and muted.
How did you fit the Ground loop isolators because I don't know where to fit them. My HU harness has the phono leads dangling(!) but nothing from the car to plug into them as the speaker/ amp connectors are all in the ISO plugs. There's also no red ISO coming from the car either.

I thought I might fit the GLIs to the speakers at the amp but to be honest I'm quite confused now and don't really want to start cutting wires etc especially unless I'm sure.

Any help greatly appreciated!

 

[S3 rpm]

Hi mate,from what I remember if your using the auto leads pc9-410 lead with the black and red RCA's, the ground loop isolators will go between the pc9-410 lead and your head unit.

You won't need to cut any wires mate.

Again if I remember correctly there isn't a red iso connector coming from the car that works the speakers,it will be one of the other ones,there's only one of them that actually fits it,try them all you can't go wrong.

Maybe somebody else could comment to make sure.

 

[Flubster]

Hi,

I had the pc9-410 using GLI's connected to a fully bose system, and the sound was appalling. GLI's although they stop the popping, they also play with the sound shape meaning everything is flat. I even bought adjustable GLI's to allow me to tweak the exact amount of filtering and I still couldn't make the system sound as I wanted. I also tried the CT51-AU01 (To normal speaker iso) and this didn't stop the popping either.

So yesterday I ended up ripping the whole system out, and running conventional speaker cables to the new speakers and wiring in the correct standard ISO. 1000% improvement. I do seem to have some small interference from the speakers when the HU is off, but I think that's related to the alpine (parrot) carkit attached to the stereo, must be near some power cables or something behind the glovebox!

Dave

 

[S3 rpm]

Hi

Ive tried both them leads as you have,ended up using the pc9-410 with Gli's but yea it does sound dump,I think il be ripping it all out and buying all new decent stuff and maybe a andymac sub,that should sort it.