Stereo help does not turn off with key!

JA50N

Registered User
Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
85
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Sheffield
Probably a simple solution so thought I would ask the question I will probably at a later date fit the rsne but for now I would like to put my stereo in the problem I have is it is a 2001 car with the canbus (only has the 1 live wire) and when you put in an aftermarket stereo it needs to be switched off at the unit which is annoying hence putting the original back in.

However thinking about this I put a stereo in my brothers merc which did the same but you could get a lead to remedy this so it worked as oiginal and switched off

Is there a lead for the s3to switch it off or can i put a wire in to somewhere? I have the lead for the amp though I think when you put another stereo in you do need to bypass this as it is not great
 
Wire in ur own ignition source. Ur stereo is running off the battery wire hence it being on permanently. If u tap into the cig lighter feed and run that up to red cable on the stereo loom then u shud be ok.
 
Hi
this is what I was thinking but with it having the can bus system did not want it to through up error codes but if it is fine doing it this way will be great as I am pretty sure I have speed pulse in din loom so everything else will be easy .

While searching i have seen a connect 2 can bus interface but seems a lot of work for an ignition wire? and nowhere i can find stocks them so would be a call in the week, athough parrot fitting guide suggests the cig lighter for ignition on can bus systems so I think this may be best option just wanted confirmation that it would be ok before I caused errors! and as most things would rather have it done :icon_thumright:

cheers
 
I Have the seats out ready to run all my wiring through but am having problems finding the switched live I have the fuse box out but if I am honest there is a huge bundle of wires and really don't want to start probing them all as it is very tight in there is there anyone who has done this (surely you don't all switch the stereo on & off!) and can tell me which wire to find at the back knowing which colour would be a great help as then I can probe it to check and then solder into this with an inline fuse please help as I have searched for hours today and all I can find out is to tap into the fusebox please excuse me as I am not computer literate and am proud of the fact I have leant how to post a thread and read pages of the forum but I am not the best on computers even a wiring diagram link would be good if no one wish's to point me to the correct wire sorry to say this but everyone seems to tell you to search and that is great when you can do this but am really struggling with the internet and trying hard to search but am bring pages of non relevent things up which is taking hours to go through
hoping for some luck now and would like to thank everyone who takes the time to read it and hopefully replies with an answer
 
There should supposedly be a switched live on the ISO connector - have you got a multimeter to check if this is the case?

If you want to run a cable from the fusebox look at the list of fuses on the cover and find the S-Cont fuse. According to the thread I linked it is fuse 30.
 
Yes I have found the fuse however upon taking the fuse box out there is a large tight bundle of wires at the back so was hoping to take a feed from here as does not seem posable to get to back of fuse itself
On the iso connecter it has a permanent live but no switched not even a wire as it runs throught the canbus
 
Yes I have found the fuse however upon taking the fuse box out there is a large tight bundle of wires at the back so was hoping to take a feed from here as does not seem posable to get to back of fuse itself
On the iso connecter it has a permanent live but no switched not even a wire as it runs throught the canbus
It is possible to get to the rear of the fuse. I think you just need to pop the black cover off the rear, it's simple.

Or if you don't want to do that, get a piggyback fuse and run the cable from that instead.
 
All you have to do is swap the yellow and red wires around. Theyll already have connectors on them.

Theyll be behind the headunit itself
 
Hi Aaron
I had never heard or seen a piggy back fuse just found what you mean easy with that cheers,
I did remove the fuse box and back cover but there was not a great deal of room with all the wires tightly packed and going into the loom tape which I did not really fancy undoing as they never go back the same but a piggy back fuse will do the trick and be easily reversable thankyou will get it started tomorrow , have decided to put my system in as I am swapping interior so with all the seats out I can thread all the wiring through the car and wire in for an AndyMac sub box as I do it as I may as well bypass the amp to the rear speakers as well presume these wires are near the sub hopefully will find the speed sensor on the lead to stereo save going to the speedo but will find out in the next couple of days no doubt.


Unfortunatley with the canbus system there is no switched live so there is no point swapping the red and yellow wires over as where the red would normally go there is no wire :-( hence why i needed to find the switched!
 
Last edited:
You just need to trace the wire back from the s-kont fuse then use a piggyback, there is just enough space, or cut the wire and solder it for a proper job.
The rear speaker feeds are indeed on the connector going to the sub
A3subloompinouts.jpg


The speed sensor is on the CANBUS IIRC so you would need to use a CANBUS emulator to get it. I wouldn't bother, you really don't need it.