Volks AutosEM Tuning
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  1. #1
    s3dave's Avatar
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    Best way to run a new build in??

    As above there seems to be the traditional way and the rag it way, picking my car up tonight from RS Tuning all being well..
    what are the pros and cons off both?....

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  3. #2
    Sandra's Avatar
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    Glad your finally getting the car back Dave. Look forward to hearing how it is. x

  4. #3
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    I'll show you how to do it, just fill up the tank!
    Word!!!

    My A3/Martys Golf would smash that, and this guys £7000 GT9743 supercharged love machine.

  5. #4
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    Ask the garage who built it what they think.

    How i would do it is

    Dont let it idle to long
    Gentle on the throttle and build up the revs and boost slowly over a few hundred miles.
    Dont try to hold a constant rpm
    Drop the oil
    Again gentle with the throttle and build up the revs and boost
    Drop the oil
    then get ready to show it a good bit of throttle and boost, then open it right up.

    1000 miles should be enough to run it in properly. This is just what ive done with either a new car or a newly built engine, other people will have different ways of doing it.

  6. #5
    coatesy's Avatar
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    some people say give it a beating to bed the piston rings in properly but i wouldn't do that because it sounds a bit extreme.

    my mate who is going to be rebuilding my engine, always says couple off hundred miles under 50 mph or 3k revs then service then do the same again but different people say different stuff.

    sorry its not the help you were looking for

  7. #6
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Yeah as stated already. Drive normal but avoid constant speeds. I drove it hard then drove normal, then harder again etc etc. I was just told to avoid a constant rpm, so idle and constant speed on motorways etc.

    And go easy whilst on boost. I'd advise staying away from redline too. I never went over 5500rpm during the first 500 miles after my rebuild
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  8. #7
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    I'll tell you how i did mine!

    N75 Disconnected. 10w40 MINERAL engine oil.

    Start from cold, run around the block a few times until coolant reached 90c, back to house and checked for leaks.

    Then i set off out of town, avoiding idling, constant speeds, constant load as much as possible. Once on the more open roads, i started a series of controlled pulls in third gear, from ~1500rpm to 4000rpm, at 50% throttle, then lifting off and allowing the engine to coast back down (clutch still engaged). Over approx 10 miles i steadily increased this until i was doing 2000-6000rpm at 100% throttle, again lifting and letting the engine coast back down thru the RPM's, and driving for a few minutes steadily but avoiding constant load between pulls.

    After a total of about 30miles i was back home.

    Drained/refilled the oil and fitted new filter.

    Then i drove the car normally, although i still tried to avoid constant load (ie motorway) for the first 500miles or so. When i did have to use the motorway i constantly varied my speed between 60 and 80 so the engine was seeing different loadings all the time.

    I changed the oil again at 100miles, 250miles then 500miles, at which point the N75 went back on and i switched to 5w40 fully synthetic oil.

    That first 25miles is crucial, you need load to get the rings bed in, and the overrun at high RPMs helps scavenge all the debris out the cylinders. Drive it like a granny during this period and the rings wont properly bed in, you'll end up with poor sealing, and a limp engine.

    It worked for me, 5000miles later its still running and is very strong.

    What i found odd was you could actually feel the engine getting stronger with each pull. First time i gave it some it felt totally flat, then as the miles wound on it got stronger and puller harder and harder with each pass.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
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  9. #8
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  10. #9
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Yeh, thats more or less what i based my procedure above on!

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
    TD5 Land Rover Defender build


  11. #10
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    I'll tell you how i did mine!

    N75 Disconnected. 10w40 MINERAL engine oil.

    Start from cold, run around the block a few times until coolant reached 90c, back to house and checked for leaks.

    Then i set off out of town, avoiding idling, constant speeds, constant load as much as possible. Once on the more open roads, i started a series of controlled pulls in third gear, from ~1500rpm to 4000rpm, at 50% throttle, then lifting off and allowing the engine to coast back down (clutch still engaged). Over approx 10 miles i steadily increased this until i was doing 2000-6000rpm at 100% throttle, again lifting and letting the engine coast back down thru the RPM's, and driving for a few minutes steadily but avoiding constant load between pulls.

    After a total of about 30miles i was back home.

    Drained/refilled the oil and fitted new filter.

    Then i drove the car normally, although i still tried to avoid constant load (ie motorway) for the first 500miles or so. When i did have to use the motorway i constantly varied my speed between 60 and 80 so the engine was seeing different loadings all the time.

    I changed the oil again at 100miles, 250miles then 500miles, at which point the N75 went back on and i switched to 5w40 fully synthetic oil.

    That first 25miles is crucial, you need load to get the rings bed in, and the overrun at high RPMs helps scavenge all the debris out the cylinders. Drive it like a granny during this period and the rings wont properly bed in, you'll end up with poor sealing, and a limp engine.

    It worked for me, 5000miles later its still running and is very strong.

    What i found odd was you could actually feel the engine getting stronger with each pull. First time i gave it some it felt totally flat, then as the miles wound on it got stronger and puller harder and harder with each pass.
    Pretty much how I did mine, except I didn't unplug N75.

    I'm sure however you decide to run in it it'll be fine, you come across like your switched on and no your stuff.

    I think the two main things are, oil changes and avoiding constant rpm.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  12. #11
    s3dave's Avatar
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    Yeah read that article thanks, the run down seems just as important as the acceleration, so plenty of load and keep away from constant speed/ load... cheers guys..

  13. #12
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    Plenty of schools of thoughts here but every part is different.

    Personally, i'd take it easy on the first 70-100 miles.

    Then have fun.

    Glad you are back in the hot seat!

    Ming Blue S3, Stage 3 Hybrid Turbo, Custom Map, Bosch 480 injectors, Custom TIP, Forge FMIC, 3" Downpipe, 200 Cell Sport CAT, Full Stainless, XS Power Mani, 6 Paddle Clutch, Red silicone hoses, LCR Brembo's, Forge 007p, KW Suspension Kit, Green filter, THS Mounts, 11mm & 16mm spacers, H&R Anti-roll bars, RS6 18" alloys, Michelin PS3's, Red Dog Bone Mount, Neuspeed quickshift, Boost Gauge, Aero wipers, LCR splitter, Forge Tie-bars, LED bulbs, Armrest, Custom TT pedals.

  14. #13
    s3dave's Avatar
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    well got it back an hour ago, god it feels good to get in it again, (4 bleeding weeks) we have decided to leave the standard injectors in while i run it in, it is running very lean on boost so im going to disconnect the n75 as the turbo wants to spool up for fun, just on a mild run the frankenturbo manni was glowing so i will have to be careful....the sound with the 80mm b5tip and large port head is amazing, loudest ive heard from an hybrid...

  15. #14
    superkarl's Avatar
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    excellent dave.
    looking forward to see the end results. a shame running in is such a long process

  16. #15
    Prawn's Avatar
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    dont give it any manners Dave, if in doubt, flat out!

    Seriously though, the link above is what you want to do.

    Gone are the days of '500 easy miles then build it up until 1000 miles' Those methods are in the past.

    Do you think everyone that builds a race engine sticks it in a road legal car and does 1000 miles? no.

    Unplug N75, then thrash it.

    Cheap oil at the start, then regular changes
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

 

 

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