Rough idling at wits end 1000pounds later!!!

[Sevv]

Hello guys, so today i took my car to my mechanic to replace my EGT coolant temp sensor, front and rear O2 sensors fulshed the coolant new fan switch and connector(Neuspeed's 82 or 86 degree one) and thermostat , changed the oil as its was mixed with the damn oil with the dipstick reading double the normal amount , new filter, service the haldex, brand new bosch superplus plugs and a new fuse box and the fuse the on that goes ontop of the battery ( replaced that myself as a fuse melted along with the fuze box) SO! she is still idling rough i have a video ill post shortly , all i know is that there is a split pipe which ill be replacing but im worried its still running rich ive tried everything , mind you it took em 6 hrs 2 mechanics working on my car charging me 660AUD$

Thoughts, advice, will be much appreciated also scaned with the VCDS and NO FAULTS!

 

[<tuffty/>]

Checked fuel trims on block 032? logged block 031 on the road/dyno?

Fix the split pipe first though... as little as it may appear these things have a habit of throwing the curve ball so to speak

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

okay ill be fixing the pipe however wats the fuel trims on block 032 ? and they scanned it as the car was idling not on the road

 

[Sevv]

thats the pipe they said was split... it idles at 1000rpm or a tick above that that falls back to 1000rpm then back to 800rpm sigh

 

[<tuffty/>]

Yeah... that would do it... vac leak on idle and boost leak on erm... boost

It will run rich with a boost leak as it thinks it has a metered volume of air of which some is leaking....

Fix that first then see how it is after...

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

okay ill be fixing the pipe however wats the fuel trims on block 032 ? and they scanned it as the car was idling not on the road

Fuel trims in block 032 are for fuel adaptions... its what the ECU thinks it needs to add or remove fuel wise to compensate for leaks... should be no more than +/- 5-10% typically... first value is short term trim and second value is long term trim...

Fuel Trim Info - Ross-Tech Wiki

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

ah thanks Tuffy always massive help from you i really appreciate it , any way to further show whats happening thats the vid ignore the music as my sister decided to put that station mute if possible

 

[Sevv]

so ive read this link you've sent me quite interesting so i guess the car is still running rich doing to the fuel trim being rich and the ecu telling the injectors to stay open, is it an easy fix i.e. with a VCDS etc.. or any mechanical work to be done, or as i read possiblly the MAF ? although it doesnt show up on the scan.. cause i really cant afford this no more

after more searching i checked this code , however it said the system was running lean :S 17544/P1136/004406 - Ross-Tech Wiki


Kind regards ,

 

[<tuffty/>]

First things first... fix the split pipe issue... this on idle will be a vacuum leak and drawing in more air than the ECU is seeing... this type of leak typically causes the issues you are seeing with your rough idle... a smoke test might be worth doing to identify any other leaks... pipes that are likely to split normally sit under the inlet manifold... these WILL eventually split no matter how well looked after the car is... worth checking under there... PCV ones being the prime candidates...

Once you have done this (cheap and easy fixes tbh that you can do yourself) then I suspect your idle will sort itself out and the running rich issues may well sort themselves out... as with a lot of these types of probs they are normally symptomatic of another problem that most people wouldn't associate with it...

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

okay thank you Tuffy very greatfull many thanks ill get that sorted ASAP, so i can enjoy this baby

 

[<tuffty/>]

so ive read this link you've sent me quite interesting so i guess the car is still running rich doing to the fuel trim being rich and the ecu telling the injectors to stay open, is it an easy fix i.e. with a VCDS etc.. or any mechanical work to be done, or as i read possiblly the MAF ? although it doesnt show up on the scan.. cause i really cant afford this no more

after more searching i checked this code , however it said the system was running lean :S 17544/P1136/004406 - Ross-Tech Wiki


Kind regards ,

That code is short term trim and its adding fuel due to the air leak you have... fix the air leak and that code goes... check block 032 and short term will be at 25%

Its reporting too lean as the ECU has run out of adaption (+/- 25%) and so throws the code...

I would be checking under the inlet mani too... prime candidate is the 'L' shaped pipe going into the air pump valve... all looks like this..

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

well i got my Turbo boost pipes from awesome on friday and got around to changing them yesterday and today mind you the the hose claps were a **** to move so any ways all is changed now along with my clutch and brake switches..... still idling is rough unfortunetly however the car now boosts fine previously the pipe was completely off!!! so couldnt drive it at all ill post pics soon im worried it would be the MAF or i saw a brake boost hose the might need replacement otherwise i tried check 'what i could see and saw no split pipes or the sort...' also found out i had a forge recirculating valve though not sure...

 

[Sevv]

thought id put the steps i took also degreesed the bay what a **** of a job lol......

some pics of the forge recirc valve....

had to alter the pipes around as the forge pipes were thicker than Audi's sodding ones....

been wondering there some sort of electrical piece sitting there ontop of the of coil pack...however not sure though i dont think i have the N249.. sorry a noob trying to fix stuff.....

I couldnt see any pipes split or so though im quite sure this brake boost pipe needs replacing... however again sadly not sure if i checked all pipes as i dont know....

thats everything fitted and done...went for a drive rather enthusiastic one parked it up pipes were still there so job done concerning them two pipes however I STILL HAVE ROUGHLY IDLE OVER 1000rpm sadly any more hints advice etc.. as its sooooo annoying ive checked my oil level lately seems to be steady with no rise at all thankfully .. mechanic told me the EGT was COMPLETELY LOOSE AND NOT HOOKED UNBELIEVABLE....

finally thats everything pieced together... though id show my engine bay

id like to mention to tuffy the pipes you have shown me a diagram too where would they be located on the image sorry for my ignorance but i tried to find them seriously couldnt find them heh...

many thanks again for everyones replies in advance

 

[sportstractor]

Is your dv on the right way? Mine is the other way round

 

[Sevv]

i wouldnt know but the pipes fitting on seem to be correct, would you be able to show me a picture of yours possibly ? any suggestions guys please im quite lost personally as ive replace many parts

 

[<tuffty/>]

...id like to mention to tuffty the pipes you have shown me a diagram too where would they be located on the image sorry for my ignorance but i tried to find them seriously couldnt find them heh...

Underneath the inlet manifold mate...

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

can anyone show me a picture of of their dv pls ?

 

[sportstractor]

Mine could be wrong but I'm sure yours can let by the way it is

 

[Sevv]

ah thank you mate , i guess ill re arrange it in the comming days , gotta check under the inlet manifold for these damn vaccum pipes and hopefully thats it..

 

[sportquattro]

Pipes under the inlet manifold are notorious for splits, mine had a split about 3 mm long and you could hardly see it but it caused all sorts of issues, once replaced problems solved so definately worth going over them in detail looking for the smallest splits.

Nige

 

[s3dave]

A good indicator of seeing if there are splits in pipes you cannot see is if you can feel any greasy film on them, if there is there will be a split/crack in the vicinity

 

[Alex C]

pretty sure your DV is the wrong way around. The electrical piece on top of you coil packs is your N249. It has been bypassed but remains electrically connected as it should be

 

[Sevv]

so i changed the position of the dv , and checked under the manifold to see a pipe disconnected, not sure what pipe it is or why but i got some pics.. fuel regulator or something not sure

which lead me to this pipe though i dont know were its supposed to go.. would it be possible that the mechanic that did my EGT would damaged this pipe...

 

[<tuffty/>]

And I think that you have now found your problem... you kinda need that connected mate... FPR is mega important!!

You will be getting a vac leak and boost leak from that and lean fuelling... hence the code you have got and the rough idling

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

thats awesome but how do i fix it lol, can i replace it with a normal silicon pipe and i really have no idea were it goes.. its amazing how you just know everything half a world away

 

[<tuffty/>]

thats awesome but how do i fix it lol, can i replace it with a normal silicon pipe and i really have no idea were it goes.. its amazing how you just know everything half a world away

LOL... thank you but I wouldn't say I know everything... these are common issue tbh and see them alot on all 1.8t based VAG cars...

Anyhoo... there are to small outlets from the inlet one of which goes to the DV/N249 and the other to the FPR... you can replace the FPR pipe with 3mm I/D silicon... use cable ties (small ones) to clip the pipes to the outlet and FPR...

Underside of the mani looks like this...

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

awesome thanks , u reckon i just put the pipe without taking the mani off ? and was wondering if a 4mm silicone pipe instead of 3mm or would that be detrimental ? i found these...Awesome - Forge 4mm Silicone Vacuum Tubing per metre

 

[Rosso TT]

Hi sevv, bit of topic, where did you get the lower fan swich.And where are you from?

 

[<tuffty/>]

awesome thanks , u reckon i just put the pipe without taking the mani off ? and was wondering if a 4mm silicone pipe instead of 3mm or would that be detrimental ? i found these...Awesome - Forge 4mm Silicone Vacuum Tubing per metre

4mm will be ok... you should be able to do this with the mani on but it will be easier to remove the metal bracket under the mani to give more access... easy enough to do... remove trim panel, unclip EGT wiring plug... 2 x 5mm allen bolts holding it to the manifold... be very careful bending the orange dipstick tube though... if the original it WILL break... so worth getting a new one and just changing as they are (in the UK at least) cheap... 5 quid tops iirc...

<tuffty/>

 

[Sevv]

Hi sevv, bit of topic, where did you get the lower fan swich.And where are you from?

which fan switch mate sorry if you can qoute the image, but mostly i buy them all from awesome gti and im from New South Whales , Australia

 

[Rosso TT]

Sorry, i should've been more specific, on you first post you stated you got a neuspeed fan swich and connector.
I'm from S.E. Vic, if closer i would have given you some help.

 

[Sevv]

ah thanks mate, but try Mike at awesome he's a great a guy im sure will fix you up shipping isnt to bad on light items i can tell you its cheaper then home

 

[s5joe]

I got mine sorted now mine was goo. The same it might be the throttle body itself as the servo can go bad in there. But mine just wanted a reset all sorted.