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  1. #1
    marrick92's Avatar
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    In depth guide for fitting brake discs and pads. (Picture heavy)

    After searching long and hard for a guide for fitting new discs, all that i really found was a few hints and tips...

    So here it is, my in depth, picture heavy, guide for fitting front brake discs on an A3 8L.

    First off, get your tools together;
    • WD40
    • Grease/lube (i used copper grease)
    • 7mm allen key socket
    • 11/16 socket (or 17mm)
    • Ratchet
    • Ratchet extention
    • Hammer
    • Metal bar
    • Flat head screwdriver
    • Cross head screwdriver
    • Jack
    • 2xAxle stands
    • G-Clamp/Vice/massive bicepts/piston rewind tool
    • Wire brush
    • Sharp knife / paint scraper
    • Threadlock if you have it to hand

    Once you have your tools together, make sure you have a garage or a nice bright english summers day and get cracking!

    Jack up your Audi and get them sexy rims off, if you cant do this then please go no further! stay safe.. put it in gear, get your wheels chocked and get a axle stand under there.
    Lock your wheels so the caliper is facing out, this will give you as much access to the calipers as possible. Firstly we need to spray your WD40 all over the bolts we will be removing, by the time you get to removing them hopefully the WD40 would of soaked in - 4 bolts in total, 2 with rubber covers, 2 big bolts that are probably rusted. (this pic shows 2 from the top, the other 2 are on the bottom of the caliper)



    Then we need to take the calipers off, remove the rubber covers from the back of these bolts if you havent already and get them unscrewed using your 7mm allen key socket with ratchet extention. (i managed to snap my ratchet trying to undo the bigger bolts on the other side so i had to improvise)



    Remove the clip on the front, pry one end off first using your flat head then the other.


    Now grab your caliper and give it a good wiggle and yank, it might be a bit tight but keep at it and maybe get a mallet involved


    Put it on your spare axle stand so its not hanging by its hose, pull the old pads off the disc and the caliper


    According to Metromaster you dont have to do this next step, apparently you can just slide the disc out without removing the caliper carrier but if you cant wedge it out, carry on with this next step:


    Now the hard bit, taking out the old seized bolts. I dont have access to a flamethrower or a windy gun so i had to take the brute strength route. You need to remove the bracket that holds the caliper, to do this there is 2 big bolts on the back of it that need to be taken out. Wire brush them down to try break the seal of rust between the bolt and the holder, also use a sharp knife of paint scraper to help. (bolts circled)


    Spray loads more WD40 on them and get your 11/16 socket on the bolts, make sure the socket is properly hammered on so you arnt goint to round the bolts... Then what i did next was spectacular if i do say so myself... get a long bar (i used a leg from a gazeebo) and put it on the end of your ratchet, give it a nice hard tug clockwise (as if you were tightening it) hopefully that will break the seal of rust.. then pull your bar anticlockwise to loosen the bolt and hopefully it should come straight out. You could try using a hammer on your ratchet if you like instead but i think leverage works better.



    With both of the bolts removed the bracket should just come off nicely. Remove the 1 cross head screw holding your disc in place and your disc should fall off too.
    The next step is to unscrew the brake resevoir cap to allow any excess brake fluid to escape when you are clamping the pistons (tissue is to stop fluid going everywhere)..



    Now because you are fitting new pads you will have to push the piston back into the caliper so they fit properly. You can get proper tools for doing this but i didnt have one to hand, the easiest tool that is usually around the garage somewhere is a G-clamp but again i couldnt find it so i had to improvise..


    Clamp the piston in all the way and you will be left with this


    Clean up the surface that the new disc will be sitting against on the hub, (Fingermouse's tip)
    Then put your new disc on just as you took it off, put the little cross head in place, screw in the brake caliper carrier, make sure its nice and tight (metromaster advises using threadlock on these bolts). Now its time to lube up! get some grease in the places where the new pads will be moving (circled).. and slot in the pad on the outside of the disc


    Grease up the other pad in the same place and click it into the piston. You now need to put the caliper back on, slot it in place and screw in the 2 x 7mm bolts. Make sure you lube these bolts! as your pads wear the caliper moves along these bolts, dont grease the threads, just the sides




    Put the rubber caps back on the bolts, Put the spring on the front of the caliper back in place, check all the bolts are tight and everything is solid and your pretty much done!


    Do the same on the other side, remember to screw your resevoir cap back on.
    When you have your wheels back on and the jacks + axle stands out turn your car on and give your brake peddle a few pumps before you set off for a test drive

    Please make sure you dont get any WD40/Grease or anything similar on your new discs or face of the pads!



    I'm sorry if its a bit long or has too many pictures but i thought for someone who hasnt had any experience fitting discs / pads it would be of some use. Remember i am no professional, i am only going on points of information here and there that i have found, along with a bit of initiative of course and i wont be held responsible if anything goes wrong whilst you are doing YOUR car, you use these instructions at your own risk.

    If there is anything i've missed or done wrong, let me know and i'll change it
    Last edited by marrick92; 4th March 2012 at 14:08.

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  3. #2
    Jimgrim77's Avatar
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    Impressive guide. Many thanks

    Ming Blue S3, Stage 3 Hybrid Turbo, Custom Map, Bosch 480 injectors, Custom TIP, Forge FMIC, 3" Downpipe, 200 Cell Sport CAT, Full Stainless, XS Power Mani, 6 Paddle Clutch, Red silicone hoses, LCR Brembo's, Forge 007p, KW Suspension Kit, Green filter, THS Mounts, 11mm & 16mm spacers, H&R Anti-roll bars, RS6 18" alloys, Michelin PS3's, Red Dog Bone Mount, Neuspeed quickshift, Boost Gauge, Aero wipers, LCR splitter, Forge Tie-bars, LED bulbs, Armrest, Custom TT pedals.

  4. #3
    jay1601's Avatar
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    just a tip pour water onto split brake fluid it will neutralize it and spot it corroding
    Audi A3 8L 1.8T breaking.
    front bumper, impact bar, slam panel, full engine and loom sold.
    everything else for sale.

  5. #4
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    What's the 11/16 socket for?
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  6. #5
    marrick92's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3featesV9 View Post
    What's the 11/16 socket for?
    Geting the caliper carrier off, the 2 big bolts at the back

  7. #6
    Metro's Avatar
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    You can take the disk off with the carriers still on!

    Audi A3 1.8t AUM
    Forge 007p, Pipercross Panel Filter, Eibach Prokit 35mm drop, EBC Green Stuff Pads
    Groved Disks, HEL Braided Brake Lines with Dot 5.1 fluid.
    Creation Motorsport Silicone TIP,
    N75 hoses, DV Hose & 10mm Rear Wheel Spacers
    Powerflex Rear Beam Bushes & Diesel Dog Bone Bush
    8k HID Kit, 8k LED Side Lights, 8k Number Plate LED




  8. #7
    marrick92's Avatar
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    I tried for bloody ages! I couldnt get it wedged out, me and my mate both decided that it was impossible so took the carriers out..

  9. #8
    fingermouse's Avatar
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    Need to add to make sure the mating surface is clean before refitting the new disc, and dirt here will cause issues
    red to red black to black blue to bits

  10. #9
    Metro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marrick92 View Post
    I tried for bloody ages! I couldnt get it wedged out, me and my mate both decided that it was impossible so took the carriers out..
    Well you didn't try hard enough xD!

    Audi A3 1.8t AUM
    Forge 007p, Pipercross Panel Filter, Eibach Prokit 35mm drop, EBC Green Stuff Pads
    Groved Disks, HEL Braided Brake Lines with Dot 5.1 fluid.
    Creation Motorsport Silicone TIP,
    N75 hoses, DV Hose & 10mm Rear Wheel Spacers
    Powerflex Rear Beam Bushes & Diesel Dog Bone Bush
    8k HID Kit, 8k LED Side Lights, 8k Number Plate LED




  11. #10
    Metro's Avatar
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    Did you put thread lock on the bolts holding the carrier to the hub?

    Audi A3 1.8t AUM
    Forge 007p, Pipercross Panel Filter, Eibach Prokit 35mm drop, EBC Green Stuff Pads
    Groved Disks, HEL Braided Brake Lines with Dot 5.1 fluid.
    Creation Motorsport Silicone TIP,
    N75 hoses, DV Hose & 10mm Rear Wheel Spacers
    Powerflex Rear Beam Bushes & Diesel Dog Bone Bush
    8k HID Kit, 8k LED Side Lights, 8k Number Plate LED




  12. #11
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Thought the carrier bolts were 17mm? Or 18 can't remember.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  13. #12
    Metro's Avatar
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    They are 17, the one socket I didn't have xD bought one from halfrauds then didn't even use it!

    Audi A3 1.8t AUM
    Forge 007p, Pipercross Panel Filter, Eibach Prokit 35mm drop, EBC Green Stuff Pads
    Groved Disks, HEL Braided Brake Lines with Dot 5.1 fluid.
    Creation Motorsport Silicone TIP,
    N75 hoses, DV Hose & 10mm Rear Wheel Spacers
    Powerflex Rear Beam Bushes & Diesel Dog Bone Bush
    8k HID Kit, 8k LED Side Lights, 8k Number Plate LED




  14. #13
    marrick92's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3featesV9 View Post
    Thought the carrier bolts were 17mm? Or 18 can't remember.
    Its something like that, mine was a 11/16 so what ever that relates to

    @Fingermouse, i'll add it in for you <3

    @metromaster, I promise i tried my hardest to wedge the disc out but i didnt want to snap the disc in half (with me being the hulk). Sorry i didnt use threadlock because i didnt have any but i'll add that in for you my love.

    ++ cheers to all for the extra bits of advice, the guide will be updated with any extra information i recieve
    Last edited by marrick92; 4th March 2012 at 14:07.

  15. #14
    Metro's Avatar
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    Haha, cheers xD good write up none the less. It's great having this information on the forum for people who havnt done it before and don't want to chuck lots at a garage to do it!

    In regards the thread lock, I'd check the bolts are tight over the next few hundred miles just incase. When you have the car up on stands next I'd seriously recommend putting some on, only on the bolts holding the carrier to the hub though, not on the sliders.

    Audi A3 1.8t AUM
    Forge 007p, Pipercross Panel Filter, Eibach Prokit 35mm drop, EBC Green Stuff Pads
    Groved Disks, HEL Braided Brake Lines with Dot 5.1 fluid.
    Creation Motorsport Silicone TIP,
    N75 hoses, DV Hose & 10mm Rear Wheel Spacers
    Powerflex Rear Beam Bushes & Diesel Dog Bone Bush
    8k HID Kit, 8k LED Side Lights, 8k Number Plate LED




  16. #15
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    Did my fronts yesterday and rears today (had to buy the rear rewid piston tool) and didn't have any issues. Just loosened tr carrier didn't completely remove it.

  17. #16
    marrick92's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metromaster View Post
    Haha, cheers xD good write up none the less. It's great having this information on the forum for people who havnt done it before and don't want to chuck lots at a garage to do it!

    In regards the thread lock, I'd check the bolts are tight over the next few hundred miles just incase. When you have the car up on stands next I'd seriously recommend putting some on, only on the bolts holding the carrier to the hub though, not on the sliders.
    Cheers for the advice mate, ill get on it when its next off the floor With a new turbo and thermostat in the post, along with the rear brakes needing doing, it shouldn be long!

 

 

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