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Thread: BAM bang!

  1. #1
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    Question BAM bang!

    Evening all.....was driving home the other night, changed gear on boost and bang! topped off a bad monday, the engine cut out straight away and wouldn't start again. After being towed home, had a friend plug in vagcom the following day, can't remember the fault code he gave me (sorry) but it said rpm sensor implausible signal. after have a good route around in the engine bay i discovered the tip wasn't fitted to the turbo. Am i right in saying that the rpm sensor is the G28 sensor? i've been told this would flag up as a fault if the engne won't start regardless if the sensor is faulty. I have a new sensor which i bought before i found the disconnected pipe and haven't touched the car sinse. Would engine start with the tip disconnected by the turbo??? I was planning on changing the sensor tomorrow but have a feeling i don't need to. Any advice would be great :0)
    Last edited by S321BAM; 2nd March 2012 at 20:26.

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  3. #2
    S3 Paul's Avatar
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    I would refit the pipe... then to fire it up ( unless it sounded horrible when it stopped?) the bang maywell have been the pipe blowing off under load.
    Ive had all manor of codes come up when i blew a boost hose off.
    I ended up unplugging the MAF sensor so the car would run and i could limp home
    Noggy Blue 2001 S3

    I ask questions because i change my mind so much. If i ask questions you have already covered... just leave it be?

  4. #3
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    fingers crossed thats the plan tomorrow, no horrible noises, no running problems, did think it hasn't been performing as well as it used to but thought i was just used to the power.

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    S3 Paul's Avatar
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    Well secure the hose and check others are all secure .
    then try a short test drive,
    Fingers crossed it will be just that,
    Clear any fault codes and see how it goes
    Noggy Blue 2001 S3

    I ask questions because i change my mind so much. If i ask questions you have already covered... just leave it be?

  6. #5
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    The TIP isn't under boost pressure so it won't have blown off, and yes a car WILL run without the TIP connected. Not very well because the MAF essentially won't be in the airstream.

    G28 will cause the engine to not start at all due to it not knowing the engine is turning to initiate the spark and fuel injection

  7. #6
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    cheers guys, i'll try starting it with everything put back together before shaving the skin off my knuckles changing the sensor

  8. #7
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    Well that didn't go to plan! engine won't turn over now, can't even turn the crank manually it solid!!! cam belt is still intact....modern engines generally don't slip teeth do they???

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    I've not heard of a modern engine slipping teeth no.

    Hope you get it sorted though buddy. You have any ideas what it could be?
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  10. #9
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    Quite baffled by it, car has been running like a dream and this happen with no warning!!! gives the other half more ammo to get a car more suited the family lol. It was cranking the other day, hopefully something stupid! Got a mate travelling up from cornwall as we speak to have a gander and hopefully shed some light on the situation.

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    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    No faults when scanned? Fingers crossed for you anyway, keep thread updated.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  12. #11
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    think theres more going on here than a pipe and a sensor. will the engine turn either way?

    did it sound "normal" when it would crankover the other day?

  13. #12
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    16705 rpm sensor implausible signal.....been told this will flare up if the car doesn't start regarless if it has a faulty sensor

  14. #13
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    engine won't budge either way, sounded normal, but turned over like it had a flat battery

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    Should the engine turn over via the crank? Surely there is too much mechanic friction going on to do it manually? And air pressure in the cylinder? Or did you have spark plugs removed when trying to turn it over via the crank?

    Sorry, I've never had to do it so I'm interested incase it happens to me at some point. So just firing questions at you
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  16. #15
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    It should turn over manually with them in, but without it should be able to turn over with ease, i never took the plugs out, at the time had enough and walked away lol. Will give it ago without shortly

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    If the engine wont turn then it sounds like u have a conrod gone. oil light would have come on if it was oil related and wud have seized shortly afterwards. Have a look at plugs when u take em out for physical damage. No sensor on ur engine will stop it from turning. Dead battery or dud starter, yes. If u cant turn engine with socket and ratchet, you will have to take sump off and investigate.
    Audi S3 Mk1 Golf 1.9T Mk4 Polo 1.9D

  18. #17
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    Quick update......something is definately bent inside the the engine, more than likely a rod :0( will keep you all updated when the engine opened up, hopefully not too much much damage as im getting married this year lol

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    first job id do is to bob the cam cover off and the top timing belt cover off. my instinct says one of the cams is seized in the head and the timing belt has stripped its teeth and one of the pistons is wedged on a bent valve. elther that or your even more unlucky!

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    Quote Originally Posted by S321BAM View Post
    16705 rpm sensor implausible signal.....been told this will flare up if the car doesn't start regarless if it has a faulty sensor
    no thats not correct on this car.
    you shouldnt see this fault code at all, reguardless of wether it runs or not, unless the the cam/crank assignment is wrong. ie one isnt correct to the other. the basic timing is out thats why it wont run.

  21. #20
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    The latest..........removed the sump to find the small end oil sprayer in the bottom of it along with a bent con rod on number 4 cylinder so the engine is now out and will see what i can salvage from it. forged con rods are on the top of the list, what is the advantage of having riffle drilled con rods??? hopefully the crank isn't twisted! is there anything worth doing to the engine whilst its in bits??? this all depends on my budget but while its out will be the best time to do it.

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    Rifle drilled Have better lubrication. Some ppl experience wear/rattles on non rifle drilled. Standard rods are drilled too. Bill stocks both.

    Umm maybe get the crank looked at, when my rod went the crank needed regrinding.

    New oil pump, pick up pipe. Whilst its all off.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  23. #22
    superkarl's Avatar
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    Check westys thread out for what you could do, hes gone all out on his, replacing practically everything, you don't have to go that far, provided things are 'ok' given the situation, but theres some good discussions in there regarding engine rebuilding

  24. #23
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    I had,

    Piston rings
    Valve stem seals
    Forged IE rods
    New oversize shells with crank regrounding
    Water pump
    Cambelt
    Oil pump
    Pickup pipe
    Head set and gaskets
    New turbo
    Oil feed pipes
    Breather hoses

    Just to give you some ideas
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  25. #24
    Alex C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S321BAM View Post
    The latest..........removed the sump to find the small end oil sprayer in the bottom of it along with a bent con rod on number 4 cylinder so the engine is now out and will see what i can salvage from it. forged con rods are on the top of the list, what is the advantage of having riffle drilled con rods??? hopefully the crank isn't twisted! is there anything worth doing to the engine whilst its in bits??? this all depends on my budget but while its out will be the best time to do it.
    was your engine modified in any way? remap?
    Alex S3 AMK
    Bilstein B8s, H&R Springs, Neuspeed ARBs, Genuine 18" BBS LMs & LCR Brembos

  26. #25
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    Alex, yes it is modified.......Revo stage 1, ah fab fmic, jetex cone filter, forge tip amd forge 007p.

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    damn mate so sorry to hear that , that would be my worst nightmare , but i would get some integrated engineering rifle drilled con rods oil pump and the pipe...

  28. #27
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    dam! stage 1 bent rod!
    Alex S3 AMK
    Bilstein B8s, H&R Springs, Neuspeed ARBs, Genuine 18" BBS LMs & LCR Brembos

  29. #28
    Westy's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear about this. Just goes to show that even the stage 1 cars aren't necessarily safe from rod failure.

    Hope you get it sorted.
    8P A3 TDI - 220bhp - 335lbft
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  30. #29
    s3dave's Avatar
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    rifled rods are not biblical imo, ive got forged rods un-rifled and have no issues, they work or dont...right? if new bearings are used you are fine..

  31. #30
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    The stock rods are drilled to lubricate the small end bushing.

    Without the drillings, the small ends rely on splash lubrication only.

    I think its more of an issue in a car thats driven daily, as its likely to spend more time at low RPM's where the splash lubrication is sub-par. On a car thats driven hard the RPM's are typically kept nice and high and theres plenty of oil flying around to keep the pins lubricated.

    The way i see it is Audi fitted it to the engine as standard, so why would you choose to "upgrade" to poorer lubrication?

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  32. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by S321BAM View Post
    The latest..........removed the sump to find the small end oil sprayer in the bottom of it along with a bent con rod on number 4 cylinder so the engine is now out and will see what i can salvage from it. forged con rods are on the top of the list, what is the advantage of having riffle drilled con rods??? hopefully the crank isn't twisted! is there anything worth doing to the engine whilst its in bits??? this all depends on my budget but while its out will be the best time to do it.
    got any pictures of the magnitude of bend?
    how dented is the piston skirt where it knocked off the squirter?

    An ibiza which came in with a tick tick noise on its IHI turbo (std motor) - running 2 bar boost!!! quel surprise!






    The piston went again ( as in was used again).. was fine once the edges were smoothed out.
    foged rods were fitted needless to say afterwards and the boost turned down to a more sensible level
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  33. #32
    S321BAM's Avatar
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    riffle drilled rods it is then, Bill how much do you sell them for??? No pictures yet other than a low res looking up from the crank and not worth posting. Engine is out now and will be hopefully taking a closer look tomorrow at the extent of the damage.

  34. #33
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    I got some from bill few weeks back, £399+vat. So around £470ish
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  35. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    The stock rods are drilled to lubricate the small end bushing.

    Without the drillings, the small ends rely on splash lubrication only.

    I think its more of an issue in a car thats driven daily, as its likely to spend more time at low RPM's where the splash lubrication is sub-par. On a car thats driven hard the RPM's are typically kept nice and high and theres plenty of oil flying around to keep the pins lubricated.

    The way i see it is Audi fitted it to the engine as standard, so why would you choose to "upgrade" to poorer lubrication?
    Total agree. When/if mine eventually go, I'll go rifle drilled.
    Handling mods++. HTA3582 stroker soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

  36. #35
    45_CB's Avatar
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    Not good !

    Hate to say it mate... but it's going to cost you another S3 worth of money unless you know the right people...

    Plymouth is an S3 killer city

  37. #36
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    Hopefully not the amount i paid for it! but i do know most of the right people to help me on my way

  38. #37
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    Finally have the S3 back on the road BIG thanks to Tom @ trelawney garage and Andy @ bridge end garage and of coarse bager bill for suppyling the new rods. still don't really know why it happened......only thing i can think of is the turbo was sounding loud when on boost and possibly over boosting??? piston looked normal when it came out and don't think any water got into the cylinder. All is forgotten now and can't wait till the engine is run in!

  39. #38
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    Nice one buddy

  40. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45_CB View Post
    Not good !

    Plymouth is an S3 killer city
    Bugger!
    1999 Audi S3 Superchips remap, Forge 007p, Phatnoise, Black Diamond Discs & DS2500 pads, N249 Deleted, Badger 5 TIP, Poly dogbone bush, Bilstein B8's and Eibach Springs.

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