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  1. #1
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Sharing my good news!

    Well finally after 3 long weeks I have my car back.

    It was burning oil at idle and at low revs. So it seemed like the valve stem seals had gone. So car got booked in and I told them about it they agreed valve stem seals. So they carried out the work but found they wernt too bad, I bit the bullet and said piston rings then. After an engine rebuild pretty much it still burnt oil!!!!

    So this is my school boy error! Start with the easiest and cheapest option first, TURBO!

    Got a brand new one, along with new waterpump, cambelt, headset, pickup pipe, valve stem seals, piston rings. £1,722.39.

    Bargain!! Lol. Only charged me 10 hours labour too.

    Car is pulling better than ever, obviously! And runs like a dream. Just have to keep it below 4k for 500 miles then they are doing oil and filter change free of charge. Then it'll be all good to drive normal.

    I did look at the turbo when I picked car up, surprisingly it didn't have any cracks, just extreme play on the shaft inside and the exhaust side looked like it had been sat in the sump for a year!

    Anyway happy times that it's back home. Need to get my map looked at as I'm sure it's the culprit!

    Only slight issue now is the rough idle, doesn't fluctuate much. Just now and then it'll vibrate the car. So expect spark plugs/gapping. Which ones are best/advised for a 2002 bam. At the moment it has bosche super 4s fitted.

    I forgot just how much I LOVE my Audi! Those 500 miles won't take long out every night just admiring its quality!!
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


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  3. #2
    liquids3's Avatar
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    Im happy for you!,won't be long running it in!,good advice though!,car's are money pit's,thats why i won't ever sale mine (don't think),can't wait for my tuRbo to arrive!,so depressed driving the work van : (

    Audi S3- 1.8T Quattro
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  4. #3
    Customboy's Avatar
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    Well done mate we have all had these days but always a great feeling to have things going right for ya! Enjoy and watch those 500 miles fly by!!
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    THE BLUE BEAST, TAKEN FROM ME, GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
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  5. #4
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Personally i wouldnt bother about 500miles below 4k.

    The engine needs load to bed the rings in, if you granny it you'll end up with crappy ring seal and a poorly performing engine. The engines more or less run in after about 25miles. After 25miles of normal driving the engine will have rotated about half a million times...

    When i rebuilt my motor, i disconnected the N75, warmed it up fully (by driving it), and once hot gave it lots of throttle from low rpms, started taking it upto 4k ish then lifting and letting it coast back down on overrun, then slowly built up the max RPM's and throttle over about 10-15miles of driving. The 5 miles after that were interspersed with full throttle from 1500rpm to 6000rpm and overrun right back down to 1500, as well as some gentle driving to keep the temps down. It then did an oil change which was FULL of glittery particles which was slightly worrying, but apparently normal, hence the suggestion that the first change should be at 25miles!

    After that, i did around 400miles with the N75 disconnected but otherwise driving the car normally except for never running it at a constant load. IE back roads good, motorway at 70mph bad. The times i did use the motorway, i continually varied my speed, so the engine was seeing different amounts of load. Changed the oil at 200 and then 500miles at which point i reconnected the N75 and it was on full boost again.

    All of that was on Wilkos finest 15w40 mineral engine oil. After 1000miles i switched back to fully synth.

    Read this:
    Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
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  6. #5
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Good read. Well tbh it is so hard to keep below the 4k mark. Soon as turbo kicks in I'm changing gear!

    Got a nice drive to silverstone Saturday for my rally day. So that should put a good few miles on. And then my bday Sunday, and have loads of presents for the car! New 6000k bulbs and led sidelights. And a good clean as its been sat in a workshop for 3 weeks nearly.

    Thinking about sending old turbo off for repair then sell it, or do something with it. Just sat in bedroom. Ideas?
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  7. #6
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Forgot to add they did a 60 mile
    Drive in it earlier and dropped the oil.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  8. #7
    Prawn's Avatar
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    Another vote for the hard break in method here. Don't it on two engines so far and it's been a wonderful success.

    The idea being that higher cylinder pressures force the rings into the bores harder and wear in better. Low load messing about doesn't create high cylinder pressures so doesn't encourage the rings to wear in as well
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  9. #8
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Roger that. Will give it a 'nice' drive to the mrs house later! Just replaced the battery too, as that was the original.

    So any ideas on spark plug options and turbo?
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  10. #9
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    For plugs BKR6E's do the job just fine.

    As for the turbo, it really depends on the damage. Might be worth sending it to someone for an inspection and see what it actually needs.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
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  11. #10
    camscockle20vT's Avatar
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    Hi dude, sorry to see you jumped the gun on the problem, i never tell a mechanic what i think it may be, they just see £££ signs lol

    Had a mate spend over a grand due to what turned out to be a dodgy tyre.

    Up side is youv now got a spot on engine that will see some good kickins

    How long you looking to keep the car for?

  12. #11
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    Glad you got it sorted mate shame it cost you an arm and leg but at least you know you've got a fresh engine beneath you ready to hopefully churn out many more miles and last many years
    Power & Torque 335bhp 285ftlb
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  13. #12
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camscockle20vT View Post
    Hi dude, sorry to see you jumped the gun on the problem, i never tell a mechanic what i think it may be, they just see £££ signs lol

    Had a mate spend over a grand due to what turned out to be a dodgy tyre.

    Up side is youv now got a spot on engine that will see some good kickins

    How long you looking to keep the car for?
    Not looking to sell it tbh. I'd does everything I want a car to do. Plus more. If I need a bigger car due to kids then the misses can sell her mini. She wants a countryman soon anyway.

    The S3 will always be with me. It ows me, and is worth too much to sell.

    Yeah I jumped the gun, but I'm glad I did tbh. As it feels so solid I'm every gear and rev range. Loving it sooo much!
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  14. #13
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    For plugs BKR6E's do the job just fine.

    As for the turbo, it really depends on the damage. Might be worth sending it to someone for an inspection and see what it actually needs.
    What the difference between 6E's and the 7E's? Yeah think I'll send it
    Off to CR turbos. See what they think.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  15. #14
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Bad news. On way to work engine oil pressure light came on. And engine sounded like a bag of nails. Likely I was right next to the garage so pottered
    In and have left them a note and key.

    Ideas?
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3featesV9 View Post
    Bad news. On way to work engine oil pressure light came on. And engine sounded like a bag of nails. Likely I was right next to the garage so pottered
    In and have left them a note and key.

    Ideas?
    Could be anything but does not sound good? Lack of oil pressure? Knocking bottom end?. Feel for you mate and hope I'm
    Wrong!!

  17. #16
    Chugger

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    Oil pump failing or pickup blocked?
    57 A3 2.0 TDI Sportback (140)

  18. #17
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Only thing I can think of is all the filings and crap from rebuild has blocked the pickup.

    Was deffo a knocking noise too
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  19. #18
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    I cant imagine they'd have left the pickup choked up if they've just rebuilt the whole engine... You also said they did a test drive and dropped the oil, so any swarf/filings etc should have made their way out at that point.

    Simplest cause would be an oil leak, but then that should have brought the oil level warning on first.

    Given they've just had the whole engine in bits though, i'd suggest its defo on them to fix it!

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
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  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    I cant imagine they'd have left the pickup choked up if they've just rebuilt the whole engine... You also said they did a test drive and dropped the oil, so any swarf/filings etc should have made their way out at that point.

    Simplest cause would be an oil leak, but then that should have brought the oil level warning on first.

    Given they've just had the whole engine in bits though, i'd suggest its defo on them to fix it!
    100% agree there!!

  21. #20
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Just called the garage, car is on the ramp already and being looked at. Not sure what problem is yet. They highlighted that the pick up was cleaned during the rebuild. So shouldn't be that, but it's what they are looking at first. If all
    Is good they are going to test the oil pump. If that's ok then I'll need to pick up a courtesy car as it could be anything. It's not burning oil so atleast it's not a ring )
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  22. #21
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    I thought I was having bad luck with my S3! I hope it turns out to be minor and that the garage sort it asap.

    Hopefully you are back enjoying your motoring soon.

  23. #22
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    Fingers crossed the garage will pick up the bill. Could be costly :-/

  24. #23
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    I no, bad luck is really hitting me right now. Update when I here back from the garage.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  25. #24
    Pushing the limits..

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    best of lucky mate

  26. #25
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Big end bearing gone!!

    Parts ordered and will be in Monday. Any particular reason why this would of happened that i can argue it was their fault?

    Didn't say weather I'm being charged for it or not. I just really hope not. Actually can't afford it! ((
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  27. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3featesV9 View Post
    Big end bearing gone!!

    Parts ordered and will be in Monday. Any particular reason why this would of happened that i can argue it was their fault?

    Didn't say weather I'm being charged for it or not. I just really hope not. Actually can't afford it! ((
    Did they replace the main bearings/conrod bearings when they fitted the new piston rings, if not then I dare say you've just been very unlucky, just hope the crank is not scored etc.. Fingers crossed damage is minimal matey!!!!

  28. #27
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    Nah big end wernt replaced during the rebuild. Dale (person doing my car) recons some crap has got into the oil pump. Like a filing maybe.

    Just walking there now to discuss it and pick up one of their loan cars.

    Looks like its another week without my motor.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  29. #28
    s3 Hoggy's Avatar
    Whats going on???

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    Jesus mate this is horrendous! I'm in no way saying that your problem is their fault but in all honesty I had a little bit of work done there before and didn't like their attitude, I had a thermostat fitted by them was told it was a genuine part turned out it was a cheap pattern part and it failed after 5,000 of driving! Had to replace it myself last weekend!
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  30. #29
    beachbuggy's Avatar
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    I can't believe there is anything they can claim is your responsibility for the failure. If the big end bearings are gone then the crank is going to need to be re ground or replaced, and not to change the big end bearings in the first place is crazy!

    Sorry to say but if oils fouled the big ends then id be more concerned about the turbo.

  31. #30
    superkarl's Avatar
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    Does anyone know that its entirely possible that filings could damage big ends after a rebuild?? Is it common?
    I imagine with new rings being bed in and block being honed then there would be a good amount of material in the oil, even after an oil change.

    Or is this purely bad luck?

    I feel for you tho, id be devestated

  32. #31
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    He has inspected the oil and there are no filings. It's only cylinder 2 aswell. All others are fine. So the reason remains a mystery. All bearings are being replaced Monday. He is then doing 50 mile drive and then dropping the oil. Inspecting. And re driving it Tuesday before I collect in the afternoon.

    Crank has been taken off for inspection by some specialst. But he said their first thoughts are its ok. Luckily.

    If not then it'll be minimal and just be repaired, whatever it is they do to it I don't no.

    Whatever the cost is, it's free. So I'm not actually too worried. Apart from why it happened in the first place. And why so quick.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  33. #32
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Any filings would have to have got thru the oil filter, which could only really happen if the filter was choked up and opened its bypass valve.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Saloon, Black-ish
    1997 S4 - PPC £999 Challenge Track Car Build
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  34. #33
    s3dave's Avatar
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    The bearings will have been removed when he did the rings, so i would suspect that 1 has spun, you should have got the rods done while all out...
    Seems to be a worrying trend going on here after stripdowns....
    Good luck with it mate...

  35. #34
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    I've seen something like once before when a big end bearing cap was put on the wrong way round. The tongues where opposite rather than the same side. This would cause excessive wear and eventual failure of the bearing. Of course i have no idea if this is what caused yours to fail but I can only assume if there wasn't any filings and it was on 1 rod then it's likely to be a fitting error, not torqued enough, over torqued or fitting the wrong way. What ever the cause good on them to fix it and do it for free you can't fault them there.

  36. #35
    s3dave's Avatar
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    ^^Agreed^^

  37. #36
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    I wish I could of afforded to do rads as it was a perfect time. I just new the bill would max out credit card so couldn't afford too.

    When/if I go big power I will save to have rods done then anyway. First off is getting the car running sweet again ad then get the map looked at. Or tweaked if needed. And then go from there.

    I also think it was down to human error for this bearing problem, weather fitted wrong or not. And I'm sure the garage wouldn't admit it. But they are doing it for free so I guess they feel the same. I'm just really looking forward to having a sweet engine again. And just enjoying the car.

    Think it'll be a good few months before i do anything else to the car.
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


 

 

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