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  1. #1
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    SAI/N249/EVAP Delete and PCV Simplified. Pro's and Con's?

    I've already done the N249 delete using the proper guide.

    How ever I want to remove the SAI (N112), EVAP and Simplify the PCV with an oil catch tank. Is it worth it?

    Reason for wanting to do this is I'm having running problems with my car and I've changed near as damn it every sensor, check all pipes, timing etc you name it I've done it.

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  3. #2
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    then id say its probably worth doing. i havent done it myself tbh. but enough ppl have for me to think its worth while. and at some point i will. some vent to atmosphere and some vent into the TIP. all depends if you dont mind the odd smell of oil if you vent to atmos. or run the hose to rear end! but thats alot of pipe!
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


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    beachbuggy's Avatar
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    Less pipe work = less chance of boost leaks.

    Worth doing but make sure the sensors are left connected otherwise you get DTC errors. These can be removed in the map, but it can cause other issues in doing so.

    Well worth removing though.

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    Could I not use resistors?

    thanks

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig1.8t View Post
    Could I not use resistors?

    thanks
    I wouldn't... every car I have seen with resistors has 'issues' that seems to go away once a proper solenoid is plugged back in...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB.
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    Seems a fair point tuffty, could I have them written out with a stage 2 remap? Or is it far more advisable to leave them plugged in?

    Could failure of these components in question cause me to get unmetered air, even though there are no split pipes?

    Cheers

  8. #7
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig1.8t View Post
    Seems a fair point tuffty, could I have them written out with a stage 2 remap? Or is it far more advisable to leave them plugged in?

    Could failure of these components in question cause me to get unmetered air, even though there are no split pipes?

    Cheers
    ECU needs to know they are there... had instances where fuel trims weren't adjusting properly due to them not being plugged in etc..

    Personally wouldn't have them coded out... the maps and ECU's are designed to run with the basic set of 'hardware' and while you can suppress readiness and fault codes I can't see what the advantage of 'coding' them out is without knowing exactly what the ramifications of doing it are... while most tuners can say they can do it I doubt there are many if any that can say for sure what effect it would have long term on the running of the engine... If the engine develops a misfire or something or a fault that shouldn't be there you could be chasing the damn thing for ages only for it to be some random map in the ECU needs to see one of the valves under certain conditions and as it can't it the ECU just goes 'meh'....

    If you want to tidy the engine bay then just extend the wires and hide the valves somewhere out the way... thats all I did with my N249 valve

    Unmetered air is either an air leak past the MAF or a buggered MAF over/under reading... over/under reading MAF won't always show a fault but would make the AFR rich or lean depending...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB.
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post

    If you want to tidy the engine bay then just extend the wires and hide the valves somewhere out the way... thats all I did with my N249 valve

    Unmetered air is either an air leak past the MAF or a buggered MAF over/under reading... over/under reading MAF won't always show a fault but would make the AFR rich or lean depending...

    <tuffty/>
    think I will just do what you mentioned with extending wires.

    As of the air leak, what I actually mean is could it be getting unmetred air from an internal leak? Its had 2 brand new MAF's so very reluctant to try a 3rd and they are genuine too.

  10. #9
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig1.8t View Post
    think I will just do what you mentioned with extending wires.

    As of the air leak, what I actually mean is could it be getting unmetred air from an internal leak? Its had 2 brand new MAF's so very reluctant to try a 3rd and they are genuine too.
    I doubt its the MAF then... have you had a smoke test yet? they are very revealing...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB.
    My build thread...


  11. #10
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    Yep, came up with 1 pipe, bought new genuine fitted it, re did the smoke test, nothing what so ever. ive even gone over them all by eye and feel, everything is fine. EVAP and PCV run to the TIP this is what makes me think of internal leak?

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    I used a resister on my SAI, has been fine for some time now but i wouldn't recommend it on any of the other sensors
    Stroked 2067cc (2.1) S3. AEB Ported & Gas flowed head, Piper cams, Valve + Spring kit, Big intercooler, IE rods, JE Pistons, CP rings, Milltek, GTX3076r Turbo, External Gated, 870cc injectors, Twin pumps, Wide Band conversion, ALD Custom inlet with R32 T/B, MkV TSI Coilpacks conversion, Fluidampr pulley, 4kg Billet steel flywheel, 4 paddle clutch, Coilovers, R32 rear ARB, Blue Haldex, 350mm 6 pots fronts & 330mm rears. Going for 550bhp, 600bhp with new injectors and more boost

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew@A.L.D View Post
    I used a resister on my SAI, has been fine for some time now but i wouldn't recommend it on any of the other sensors
    You mean the actual pump using a 330ohms resistor?

  14. #13
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    I removed my SAI and had no fault codes...still dont to this day,even bought the resistor to wire in....

    James

    Now Silver Audi S3....fun in the snow (when it comes ! )
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    and many many cars and bikes in the past!!

  15. #14
    StaceyS3's Avatar
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    I've got a resistor hardwired in in place of the n249 and have got one plugged in in place of the charcoal canister
    I made one up with 2 narrow male spade connectors and always tried it for a few weeks before hardwiring it in and just haven't got round to the charcoal canister yet
    Not had any adverse effects of this but do get the occasional evap fault which as far as I know is normal?
    BAM S3, MTM K26 With External Gate, Hayward & Scott Custom Downpipe & Decat, Custom 3" TIP & Jetex, Lots of Silicon & Alloy Piping, Supersize DV, Southbend Clutch & Single Mass Flywheel, WMI, Porsche 6 Pots, 300mm Rears, AH Fabs V2 FMIC and to much more to list
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  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig1.8t View Post
    You mean the actual pump using a 330ohms resistor?
    Sorry i mean the pump as been removed and a resister put in place without any problems

    Also done a N249 but the valve is still connected and hidden out of the way
    Stroked 2067cc (2.1) S3. AEB Ported & Gas flowed head, Piper cams, Valve + Spring kit, Big intercooler, IE rods, JE Pistons, CP rings, Milltek, GTX3076r Turbo, External Gated, 870cc injectors, Twin pumps, Wide Band conversion, ALD Custom inlet with R32 T/B, MkV TSI Coilpacks conversion, Fluidampr pulley, 4kg Billet steel flywheel, 4 paddle clutch, Coilovers, R32 rear ARB, Blue Haldex, 350mm 6 pots fronts & 330mm rears. Going for 550bhp, 600bhp with new injectors and more boost

  17. #16
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    You lot left the n112 valve plugged in or run a resistor?

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    I left mine N112 plugged in but hidden out of the way
    Stroked 2067cc (2.1) S3. AEB Ported & Gas flowed head, Piper cams, Valve + Spring kit, Big intercooler, IE rods, JE Pistons, CP rings, Milltek, GTX3076r Turbo, External Gated, 870cc injectors, Twin pumps, Wide Band conversion, ALD Custom inlet with R32 T/B, MkV TSI Coilpacks conversion, Fluidampr pulley, 4kg Billet steel flywheel, 4 paddle clutch, Coilovers, R32 rear ARB, Blue Haldex, 350mm 6 pots fronts & 330mm rears. Going for 550bhp, 600bhp with new injectors and more boost

  19. #18
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Is the n112 the valve welly unplugged and ended up causing him some fuelling issues?

  20. #19
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    Hmm, I'm gonna definitely do this on the weekend I think

  21. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    Is the n112 the valve welly unplugged and ended up causing him some fuelling issues?
    Yes... that and the N249 iirc... wouldn't pass emissions on the MOT...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB.
    My build thread...


  22. #21
    StaceyS3's Avatar
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    Bam doesn't have n112 iirc
    BAM S3, MTM K26 With External Gate, Hayward & Scott Custom Downpipe & Decat, Custom 3" TIP & Jetex, Lots of Silicon & Alloy Piping, Supersize DV, Southbend Clutch & Single Mass Flywheel, WMI, Porsche 6 Pots, 300mm Rears, AH Fabs V2 FMIC and to much more to list
    Power & Torque 335bhp 285ftlb
    My Build Thread
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  23. #22
    Welly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    had instances where fuel trims weren't adjusting properly due to them not being plugged in etc..
    In my case, not adjusting at all.

    The main culprit for this for reference is the N112, N249 being unplugged didn't affect fuelling in any way. N112 disconnection turned adaptive fuelling off completely.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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