2001 (y reg) a3 1.8t red oil light with 3 accompanying beeps!

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Hi guys, I've searched the forum and read all of the posts surrounding this issue and ive had some 'oh s***' moments and some releaved sighs with some threads.. First I will explain the problem... My car was serviced last month so oil is full and clean. The red oil can followed by 3 beeps first came on after heavy cornering which s*** me up abit I must say, so I pulled over and restarted my engine, it stayed off for 2 mins then came back intermittently when over 2k rpm. The engine does not sound any different after the final 15 mile crawl home... When I parked up, the light disappeared, I revved it up a few times to about 3.5k rpm and it still didn't come back on... I then took it out for 5 mins at which point after the first 2 mins it came back on all the way till I got back home. I've made the hard choice to put it in the garage and leave it until I know what I'm looking for! Can you guys give me any cheap starting points to look at before pulling the big guns, but just incase it comes to it... I've read that it's unlikely to be a faulty pump but it could be, if this is the case does this engine need to be lifted to replace? Or can it be fixed without removing the engine? If anyone has had this done or roughly knows , and could give me a maximum spend for this situation/fix then I can be prepared for the worst! Thankyou so much for reading this thread, any help would be much appreciated! Sorry for the long winded explanation!
 
It sounds like an oil pressure fault which if it has been driven for any length of time whilst having low pressure could cause catastrophic failure :-(

First thing I'd check is fault codes and the oil pump pick up pipe in the sump as these are prone to blocking

Hopefully it's not caused any damage and best of luck 


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.791751,0.646581
 
I had the exact same problem with my mkiv golf 1.8t and I did nothing for a few days while trying to get it in to the garage to get it looked at as it was a very intermittent fault and in the end the oil pump failed before it got to the garage to get checked (only 3days went by from fault to failing pump). I sold the car to my brother inlaw and it cost him £2k to put right. So I would say get it checked out as soon as.
 
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Thanks for the replies, I only drove it about 17 miles or so after the light came on, 15 miles of which I thought the light was just oil level so I didn't figure it would do any damage until I got home. Would this fault just have happened as soon as the light came on or could it have been getting worse and doing damage before the light came on? Ive driven the car about 2000 miles in the last 3 weeks and its seemed to run sweet as anything... only thing I noticed was the clutch was a little stiffer than normal, which I was going to sort first thing in January...
Shame this thing has just happened to be honest, but lucky at the same time! I was going to get it chipped mid January and id just ordered new disks and pads... If this had happened after spending money on chipping it, I would have been thoroughly p****d off xD
 
Had tis problem on and off over a space of about two weeks last year. Me knowing ****** all! I just thought. It was a fault in the dis or something. Until it sounded like a tractor as I pull away from a set of lights. Turned out to be a the pickup. Totally clogged up. Luckily it went on me when it did or it may have been very expensive. I'd get it looked at ASAP mate before you ****** your engine.
 
Everybody loves a good old bit of doom and gloom!

What sort of mileage and service schedules have these cars been on?
 
I bought the car 3 months ago on 108.5k its now neerly ticking over to 112k. The car has had every service on time and was last serviced just over 4 weeks ago... I don't like doom and gloom personally but I'd rather be prepared for the worst on this case!
 
How likely is it to be something as simple as cleaning the sump and pick-up pipe? I could do that myself,but if it turned out to be something else is have equated money on fresh oil..
 
metromaster said:
How likely is it to be something as simple as cleaning the sump and pick-up pipe? I could do that myself,but if it turned out to be something else is have equated money on fresh oil..
Click to expand...

Its worth while if you can do it yourself as blocked pickup is very common.
 
audi upgrades
I'd say more than likely after a search on here. And for what it cost well worth a try mate. When I Shan a torch down mine I could only see about two beams of light shining through the gauze. The new one was like turning the big fkn light on ;). Had mine done at the local approved as I was under the impression it was done for. Cost Me £128 labour, parts, oil and engine flush. I was expecting to replace the engine so win win.

Jardo mine was on 97k at the time and had been on long life service before I got it. Obviously a major factor.
 
The long life servicing is the killer I think! I do my cars every 8K or 12 months, 10w40 Quantum, new magnetic sump plug and the cheapest filter I can find. My car is just turning 200k and is perfect, the thing to take from threads like these are that regardless of what you use the timings of the service are key.

Bad luck with yours, personally I would do the pickup asap and if that doesn't cure it then get it into a specialist for a proper investigation.
 
Well, ive got a Haynes Manual, some ramps, and some tools. as well as my friends dad (if i need him) whos an engineer at Cummins train engines so he might come in handy... so all I need is oil, some of the right silicone sealant, carb cleaner an old toothbrush (ill borrow the misses's and put it back after xD)
 
metromaster said:
How likely is it to be something as simple as cleaning the sump and pick-up pipe? I could do that myself,but if it turned out to be something else is have equated money on fresh oil..
Click to expand...

Sorry for random spelling, auto correct on my phone does my nut in xD
 
For what it cost dude get on to tps or someone and get a new pick up pipe in. Think they are around £25ish. Flush it out then whack the new oil and plug in. I was told to change the oil again after 2k. Car been sweet ever since.
 
Can you use TPS for none trade? there's one in Coventry which is only 25mins away from me but I wasn't sure if I could use them to pick up some parts! If I can I might as well pick up some other bits and pieces whilst I'm there...
 
metromaster said:
Can you use TPS for none trade? there's one in Coventry which is only 25mins away from me but I wasn't sure if I could use them to pick up some parts! If I can I might as well pick up some other bits and pieces whilst I'm there...
Click to expand...

Yep tps is open to the public :)
 
whilst the sump is down, wire brush all the burned on crap out of the sump too, ie get it back to bare metal.

sadly the top end is highly likely to be heavily contaminated too so is unlikely to ever be truely quiet

as for INTERMITENT, its not intermitent. if your pick up is blocked your running in low pressure, if the warning has come up, youre on the cusp of no pressure thereafter until you sort the pick up
 
Thankyou for all of your replies! I have been reading up on different oil to be used in this engine, the database in the garage said 10w40 but I've read elsewhere never to use semi synthetic in this engine? What do you guys use? I kinda trusted this garage as it's been recommended by a few people, but I'm worried they have ******** my engine... Should flush it through with some cheap fully synthetic and some engine flush before putting some decent fully synthetic in? What engine flush should i use?
 
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Quantum Platinum 10w40, it's available from Audi/VW or GSF and is cheap and good.
 
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Is there no way to check the condition of your pick up pipe yourself, mines just ticked over 105k, although been on regular 10k/12 months service, I'd like to make sure it's virtually clear of any build up.
 
Could be just the switch

I had the same problem even with the oil pump changed i was still getting it but I've changed the look and sensor and all is well now
 
JoeD said:
Is there no way to check the condition of your pick up pipe yourself, mines just ticked over 105k, although been on regular 10k/12 months service, I'd like to make sure it's virtually clear of any build up.
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It's more to do with the metal gauze that's on the end of the pick up.
It has small holes that "can" become blocked.
IMO if in doubt replace it.

Pat
 
Aye, well i've got the ramps and some gasket silicone... Its weird how... the previous two services its had fully synthetic oil, the last one it had 10w40 and this happens.. should I stick with fully synthetic? Ive read that you can use 5w40 fully synthetic, does this sound okay for this engine?
 
JoeD said:
Is there no way to check the condition of your pick up pipe yourself, mines just ticked over 105k, although been on regular 10k/12 months service, I'd like to make sure it's virtually clear of any build up.
Click to expand...

Aye, drop the sump and take the pick-up pipe out and have a look... if in doubt read this thread http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/102890-s3-sump-removal-refit-pics.html if not, the Haynes manual has it all in. *edit* its going to be a dirty job, on my mums garage floor... xD oh well
 
StaceyS3 said:
The pick up pipe IIRC only costs £9 but the poxy o ring is £2.50 ish for a bit of rubber lol
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Shame theres no where open untill after new year... poor excuse for specialist car parts dealers to have a holiday imo xD
 
Right, spent most of the day on my back with my sump playing hard to get, finally got it off, it was the worst sight, but after a good 3 hours of cleaning and two trips to TPS later, a new oil-pickup has been fitted and sump back on, an engine flush and £50 later, my a3 lives and runs smoother than ever!
I would like to thank everyone who has given me pointers to help me!
 
Good work that man! This is what we like to hear, more people picking up the spanners and working on their own cars.

:)
 
I
16Klappe said:
Good work that man! This is what we like to hear, more people picking up the spanners and working on their own cars.

:)
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This has given me so much pleasure, think ill have it up on the ramps more often, got new disks and pads coming soon so ill do that myself. I think ill leave the cv boot to a garage, but what do you think to replacing the anti-roll bar links? Is it an easy job?
 
Shon a torch down and couldn't see any light at the end of the tunnel so I do belive so yes xD I've got some pics of the sump but I'm on my phone at the moment so ill post them when I am. I still have the pick up so ill get some pics when I get back home.
One thing though, if your going to do this, do it yourself, a garage will not scrub the sump and do a good job! I saved a lot of money doing it myself, garage was going to charge £110 for diagnostic and then labour and parts on top... Got oil and pick up for £36 from tps and just used a scouring pad to do the inside of the sump! Don't use anything abrasive around the face of the sump that joins with the engine.
 
metromaster said:
I

This has given me so much pleasure, think ill have it up on the ramps more often, got new disks and pads coming soon so ill do that myself. I think ill leave the cv boot to a garage, but what do you think to replacing the anti-roll bar links? Is it an easy job?
Click to expand...

If you mean drop links, then yeah it is super easy. Less than a 10 min job :)

The way I see it is if you know your limits, only take off what you can put back on you won't ever go wrong. And if it doesn't work you can pack it all up and get a garage to do it. Then you can go down the pub and tell your mates how you fixed it lol

I'm going round to Prawns today to do new top mounts and track rod ends, fit a new exhaust hanger and change my turbo bolts. I do all my own stunts :gun2:
 
Sounds awesome, talking of turbos I reckon I've got a boost leak but no idea how to find it. The tubo spools then drops then spools again a few times through the Rev ranges, the fix I did yesterday acctualy stopped this happening then it came back after 20mins of driving? Any ideas?
 
Is the car mapped or standard? Manual boost controller fitted? Any "upgraded" N75 valves?
 
5W40 quantum platinum would be better than 10w40 but also VAG say that 5w30 can be used in all VAG engines over the year 2000. Pick up is £9.88 inc vat, seal is £3.79 inc vat.
 
He's already done it dude, and personally 5w30 would only go in my car over my dead body! Oil pressure fail!
 
My car is completely standard at the moment, I was waiting till after the new year to start work on it properly, I got recommended 5w40 for the winter so that's what I've stuffed in it at the moment. I'm going to swap it out in 1k because it was pretty gunky in there so ill try and get it all out. Can you get 10w40 fully synthetic?

And thanks to danger s3 for the great guidelines helping me sort this!
 
If you have got boost fluctuations then get it fault code checked on VAGCOM, my money is on either a worn DV or a boost leak. First port of call would be the hoses under the inlet manifold :)
 
There are no error codes atall, everything checks out, had an obd2 plugged in for the 100 mile drive home last night and all the figures add up! I've heard if you spray carb cleaner on the pipes whilst its turned on indicates any leaks, as you get a rev spike when/if it gets sucked into the engine, this sound safe to you?
 
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