car keeps going into limp mode please help.

[Steveo_A3_1.8t]

hello all,
first of all i will try and cover all info required for you guys to give me some feedback.

my car is a 02 1.8t AUM re-mapped by total vag
forge 007p
n249 bypass
and catch can is fitted.

right first here are some VAGCOM codes.

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 HJ
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002
Software Coding: 11500
Work Shop Code: WSC 78644
Additional Info: WAUZZZ8L021015835 AUZ7Z0A1987682
2 Faults Found:
16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
P0441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17535 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Rich
P1127 - 35-00 - -

after reading up on fuel trim on the ross-tech site, i found that the MB32 readings are of some use. so here u go:


MB32
idle O2adapt 0.6%
run O2adapt -25.0%
(these should not exceed +/- 10% Apparently - being rich and + lean)


the conclusion i have come to is that its either the MAF ( as stated on ross tech site) or a boost leak causing it to run rich at elevated RPM


im quite new to this diagnostic stuff so any help is very welcome


cheers, Steve

 

[StaceyS3]

When doing the n249 delete did you remove the charcoal canister on the drivers side of the bay between the 2 water tanks?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Hummm... sounds like they could be related... EVAP one is generally due to lack of flow through the N80 valve which is typically when you have removed its vacuum source...

Bank 1 trim going rich.... FPR vacuum or blockage of the FPR maybe... not seen idle trim go that rich before tbh...

Essentially you are getting too much fuel on idle for whatever reason and the ECU is trying to remove it... when did you have the car remapped?

<tuffty/>

 

[StaceyS3]

Hummm... sounds like they could be related... <tuffty/>

Was what i was thinking but the thing i was thinking about was maybe not capped off the evap vent into the tip but now i think about it that would make it run lean not rich.......numpty lol

 

[Steveo_A3_1.8t]

i didnt remove the charcoal canister, didnt know what it was till you just told me lol, should i have????

Tufty, the idle mixture is well within the tolerances (according to ross-tech wiki page), its at elevated rpms that its rich. are there any other checks i can do with vagcom to pinpoint the problem?? also what and where is the FPR???

oh the car must have been mapped 4 years ago by total vag, as ive owned it over 3 and i bought it like it.

like i said before im very new to vagcom so im not that clued up on it.

cheers guys

 

[A3 T]

When doing the n249 delete did you remove the charcoal canister on the drivers side of the bay between the 2 water tanks?

I didn't think that was necessary


What does it do?

 

[<tuffty/>]

i didnt remove the charcoal canister, didnt know what it was till you just told me lol, should i have????

Tufty, the idle mixture is well within the tolerances (according to ross-tech wiki page), its at elevated rpms that its rich. are there any other checks i can do with vagcom to pinpoint the problem?? also what and where is the FPR???

oh the car must have been mapped 4 years ago by total vag, as ive owned it over 3 and i bought it like it.

like i said before im very new to vagcom so im not that clued up on it.

cheers guys

Yours is a wideband ECU so it will always try and meet AFR... if its rich at higher RPMs then sounds like the FPR could be blocked...

Fuel system too rich fault code? see inside, it might be this - SEAT Cupra.net - SEAT Forum

Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) is the bit at the end of the fuel rail with a vacuum pipe connected to it... have only seen this on BAM S3's before but as yours is an 02 plate its plausible they have used the same fuel hose for your model too...

Easy to remove but bear in mind it will be under pressure especially if you have not long run the engine... best to do when the engine is cold in case fuel spurts onto something hot and you release the clip holding the FPR in... gently prise the FPR out and clean up any mess in there...

I generally find it easier to use a but of Vaseline on the seals to help it back in and make sure the fuel level in the centre 'bowl' is low else the pressure behind it will fight you pushing the FPR back in...

<tuffty/>

 

[Steveo_A3_1.8t]

Oh I know it's round isn't it. Cheers tufty I shall have a look tomoz and post my findings.

Also how do I check the N80 on the charcoal canister?

Thanks again for your info mate.

 

[Steveo_A3_1.8t]

Yours is a wideband ECU so it will always try and meet AFR... if its rich at higher RPMs then sounds like the FPR could be blocked... <BR><BR><A href="http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=304935" target=_blank>Fuel system too rich fault code? see inside, it might be this - SEAT Cupra.net - SEAT Forum</A><BR><BR>Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) is the bit at the end of the fuel rail with a vacuum pipe connected to it... have only seen this on BAM S3's before but as yours is an 02 plate its plausible they have used the same fuel hose for your model too...<BR><BR>Easy to remove but bear in mind it will be under pressure especially if you have not long run the engine... best to do when the engine is cold in case fuel spurts onto something hot and you release the clip holding the FPR in... gently prise the FPR out and clean up any mess in there...<BR><BR>I generally find it easier to use a but of Vaseline on the seals to help it back in and make sure the fuel level in the centre 'bowl' is low else the pressure behind it will fight you pushing the FPR back in...<BR><BR>&lt;tuffty/&gt;

<BR><BR>


cheers tuffty, the vasaline trick worked a treat!right i just checked my FPR and looks fine to me...






also ran the output test on the N80 purge valve and it made the clicking noises as i belive it should. However in the open controller in vag com after running the scan, i clicked the "readiness" tab and everything was fine apart from Secondary Air Injection which said "failed or incomplete"

I checked the SAI which runs from the valve next to the N249, and runs all the way up and down to the turbo area as far as im aware, and couldnt see any obvious leaks/damaged pipes. (all the pipe work thats infront of the metal nipple that runs along side head is new silicone as changed it when done the 249 delete).

it may be worth mentioning that when i reset the fault codes the car will travel almost exactly the same distance before going into limp mode again. i drive to work no problem, 30mins ish and get about 2/3rds of the way home and it drops into limp on the same bit of road everytime(like within 100yrds!!! spooky)

i hope someone has got some ideas for me as its begining to annoy me now.

thanks again for all your input people Steve

 

[Steveo_A3_1.8t]

Bump

 

[aragorn]

Air leak between maf and cylinders would cause rich fuelling.

This would be where i'd be looking.

 

[Steveo_A3_1.8t]

Air leak between maf and cylinders would cause rich fuelling.

This would be where i'd be looking.

yeah im planning on doing a boost leak check, just made an adapter to go in the TIP using a bean can and a airline cupler lol

 

[Steveo_A3_1.8t]

just incase anyone else is watching this thread for help, ive took some photos whilst doing boost leak test today.

here the bits i made to do test.

adaptor (goes in tip)
fb1ff.jpg at Free Image Hosting
adaptor inside
df702.jpg at Free Image Hosting
Hockey puck PCV valve plug (also in tip)
89f54.gif at Free Image Hosting
adaptor fitted
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/1c2be


with this all fitted and OIL FILLER CAP REMOVED i began to pass air into the tip at 20psi, almost immeidiatly i began to hear air escaping down back of engine, so i removed chargepipe and found this:

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/ac7f4

i am currently trying to find AGU Charge pipe and hose, but for now i just cleaned it up and bent the tabs out slighty that grip the clip.

00bf0.jpg at Free Image Hosting

i then refitted the charge pipe (quite fiddly, but not to bad) and re tested and the system held 20psi with no leaks. ive reset all my fault codes and just keeping my fingers crossed its all sorted. car is smoother and obviously holds boost better now.

i hope this is of some use to people, ive gained so much knowledge and saved just as much money from people taking the time to upload photos etc of their repairs on this forum, and ive never done it, so thought i would!

 

[Steveo_A3_1.8t]

sorry about pics, click links to view