Well its thats time of year and its started............

Dani_B19

Audi-sports own special child.
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First real day of cold, bad weather and the s3 decided to play up like a t***, typical.

Went to start car this morning, primed it up and went to fire and car wouldnt start, was wanting to but just wouldnt, could hear ans feel it but wouldnt budge, turned it off then back on and it started.

Parked up at work, came back tonight to have it do virtualy the same thing but it eventualy fired without having to turn in on and off.

Cant even scan it as the laptops at the birds until i go through on wednesday :(.

So whats the thoughts on it? Batterys only 12 to 18 months old so cant see it been that but goig to get it tested at the weekend!
 
Try turning the ignition on, but not turning it over until the fuel pump has primed, count to 3 basically then crank it. Mine is like this every morning, it's the fuel pump being lazy.
 
MIne was like this about 2 years ago...
Mine was the battery ( or seemed to sort it out )
later that year the fuel pump started to show signs of a problem... when logging the injectors they nearly max'd out so this gave signs the pump was failing.
i changed that as the power was well down, the car has fired every time since then,
 
i had this problem the other day :( but even when i drove off it shuddered and shaked, had the spark plugs change but still no difference, thinking it could be the battery but everything else seems fine, will try leaving the ignition on for the fuel as suggested
 
Well the petrol light had literally just come on, isnt failing fuel pump i dont think, my mates fuel pump started togo ghen competely went in tescos car park the other week, his though would not prime at all when it was dieing, youd have to bang the fuel tank and cycle the ignition several times.

Yup did that beanoir, i do this every single time i start my car, i always allow 20 seconds or so before i fire it to allow the pump to prime.
 
I must admit I have a habit of waiting 2 or 3 secs with the ignition on before cranking it over.I think it comes from years of owning a Golf GTi MK2 where you listened to the fuel pump priming before turning it over.
 
Dan, they dont all die in the same way,
You need to log whats happening with the injectors. mine were staying open to try and make up for the falling preasure...
I would try the battery first
 
Good point paul.
Can the injectors be logged with vcds-lite?
Ill be p***ed if ita y battery, surely they should last longer than 18 months? Its a big heavy duty bosch silver one.
 
That can depend if the car has something draining it... ive had to have mine changed under warrenty.
Im not sure on this one... but could fuel preasure regulator be going too?
Im not sure about vag com lite pal. mines a a full version .
 
i think bosch come with a 4 year warranty! I would also like to know how to log injectors
 
I asked Bill ( badger5 ) he told me which to log and why,
Im sure somebody on here could tell you better than me
 
Hopefully itll be under warranty if it is that. What could potentialy be draining the battery? Ill tey and do some logging wednesday.
 
Got a sound system without a properly installed remote turn on?
 
Light in the boot staying on?
Glovebox light ?
 
Have the battery tested properly,
Log what the injectors are doing,
Failing that have the fuel preasure checked.
 
Ok new problem.

Cars been starting fine for last 2 days not a problem but its developed a new one lol.

Once the engines warmed up, when coming to a standstill the revs will drop to 600rpm as if the car wants to cut out but doesnt, it juat revs back upto 900rpm and idles normal!

Any ideas? Had a new clutch switch at start of year but could of gone!
 
Ok new problem.

Cars been starting fine for last 2 days not a problem but its developed a new one lol.

Once the engines warmed up, when coming to a standstill the revs will drop to 600rpm as if the car wants to cut out but doesnt, it juat revs back upto 900rpm and idles normal!

Any ideas? Had a new clutch switch at start of year but could of gone!

Check the MAF, last yr i had the same problem where it would eventually cut and. The engine would rock a little more aggressively too. Clean the MAF sensor might be worth a try
 
You had vag com plugged in yet?
Run it a day with MAF unplugged. see if same problem is there
 
Got vag com from the birds so ill run it tomorrow. Going to unplug the maf tomorrow morning and drive to work and see how it drives.
 
Ok so a bit p***ed off.

Been out and vag com'd the car, not a single blooody fault code, so i popped the bonnet to have a look.

All visual vac and boost hoses are ok, all under the inlet manifold are fine as ive changed every single hose on the car to silicone.

Now the only thing i can see that might cause a problem is the plastic water housing that goes in to the block. I changed one of the smaller coolant lines to it for some silicone but the silicone is a mm too big and it looks to be weaping, ive got a smaller bore to fit so that should sort that but the large hoses joining onto it at either side are leaking, could this be causig be problems?
I know when my temp sender went it caused the car to over rev on gear changes so wondering if the coolant leak could be causing my revs to drop problem!

Thoughts.
 
Ok so a bit p***ed off.

Been out and vag com'd the car, not a single blooody fault code, so i popped the bonnet to have a look.

All visual vac and boost hoses are ok, all under the inlet manifold are fine as ive changed every single hose on the car to silicone.

Now the only thing i can see that might cause a problem is the plastic water housing that goes in to the block. I changed one of the smaller coolant lines to it for some silicone but the silicone is a mm too big and it looks to be weaping, ive got a smaller bore to fit so that should sort that but the large hoses joining onto it at either side are leaking, could this be causig be problems?
I know when my temp sender went it caused the car to over rev on gear changes so wondering if the coolant leak could be causing my revs to drop problem!

Thoughts.
 
Right little update.

Tightened all visible boost and vac line clips, this seemed to make a slight difference for a few miles then it was back to normal.

Next i warmed the car up and drove without the MAF connected, this again made no difference.

No fault codes on vag com either and boost gauge seems to be reading about righ on idle, 18-20 inhg or whatever it is.

Any ideas as its doing my tits in.
 
Ok new problem.

Cars been starting fine for last 2 days not a problem but its developed a new one lol.

Once the engines warmed up, when coming to a standstill the revs will drop to 600rpm as if the car wants to cut out but doesnt, it juat revs back upto 900rpm and idles normal!

Any ideas? Had a new clutch switch at start of year but could of gone!

Mine did the same thing last year with no obvious fault. Changed the MAF, all has been good since.
 
Problem is the maf's not even 12 month old, in fact i think its just over 6 months old so if it is that, its a joke.
 
Mafs can be problematic even when new.... do you remeber all the greif Prawn was having ???? i think he had 3 brand new ones that all gave different results
 
Yea I think prawn got some from GSF? Loads of faulty ones. I got mine from Audi, you can px the old one so not too bad. There is video on YouTube of how to test the MAF which is pretty good. But like I say, I had the exact same symptoms, and MAF did the trick.
 
Ill try and find my receipt out and get it exchanged, see from their.
 
Update time.

After doing some research i came across a thread on sc.net with people suffering similiar issues to me. One suggestion was that it could be the n75, thought worth a try.

So i disconnected the n75 valve and drove the car for a whole trip.

The car drove alot more smoother and the revs didnt drop to 400-600 rpm, although they did blip a little.
If it is the n75 which it looks like it is, itll explain why my boost sometimes spikes to 14/15 psi when booting it and other times itll max at 11 pis!

Thoughts?
 

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