n75 picture, confirm

Buzzer

Buzzer

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Got my badger 5 tip fitted last week, and i feel the car is slower than before.All the clipps seem nice and tight and i have all new vacuum hoses and a new N75. Can you have a look at the picture to make sure the N75 has been connected the right way around.
I had somebody check for an faults, and all seem perfect.
 
looks wrong to me. but thats without running to my car to check. if my photographic memory serves me right the outlet on the n75 pointing away should go into the tip.
do you have a boost gauge?
 
what N75 is that? standard valve or a J valve? I ask this because it's brown..... I'm sure the J valve I had once was brown

The J valve fits in differently to the standard valve, so that could be part of the problem.....
 
Firstly if that is an 'J' valve then advice would be to change it for an 'F'...

Fitment wise as Prawn has suggested, 'J' valves are a different orientation to the std 'F' valve...

Any N75 however is fitted thus.... boost in the bottom, long outlet goes in the TIP and remaining short outlet to the actuator...

<tuffty/>
 
It's a J valve. It was only replaced 6 weeks ago.
 
<tuffty/> said:
You've had issues with boost before haven't you? boost cutting off all of a sudden?

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Ye, got that sorted ,all new vac hoses and the n75 replaced
Seem to have ok performance, but have doubts about the fitting of the TIP,
Not confident about the mechanic
 
I would change the N75 to an 'F' variant... J's are spikey and normally throw the engine into limp mode...

The biggest fail people have fitting B5 TIPs is not putting enough sealant around the alloy billet where it fixes to the turbo... if no sealant or very little sealant is used you will have probs...

<tuffty/>
 
Ok,just changed the n75 the other way around and the car seems to boost better. Think problem is solved.
The other method iv used , 3rd gear pull along side my friend in his mk5 golf. We were neck and neck before , last week with the tip and n75 other way around, he had a slight advantage(not expected)
Will do another run tonight (not very scientific) but a great judge of performance.
Thanks for all the replies , and will check if sealant was used at the adaptor Tuffty, good advise!
 
Before you start messing around with the N75 plumbing, you REALLY need to know what's what.

That means, exactly which tail of the N75 does what, and which pipes are going where in regards to the actuator / charge pipe feed.

There is one orientation of the valve, which appears to make the car run better, by infact removing ALL boost control and letting the turbo run 100% flat out the whole time. This isn't cool. it'll feel fast as ****, right until it blows up.

Check it over as per Tuftys description, and make sure you're 100% happy with it.
 
Both outlets on the n75 seem the same length. The boost seems a bit better, but not like when it was spiking.
The way I have it now, would make sense if a J valve is to be fitted the other way around from the standard one, ref S3daves post. Defo don't want a blow up, hense the posts and pic and a cry for help, and thanks for all the replies and advise. Don't know what way to put it know?
 
Buzzer said:
Both outlets on the n75 seem the same length. The boost seems a bit better, but not like when it was spiking.
The way I have it now, would make sense if a J valve is to be fitted the other way around from the standard one, ref S3daves post. Defo don't want a blow up, hense the posts and pic and a cry for help, and thanks for all the replies and advise. Don't know what way to put it know?
Click to expand...

The right fitment for a 'J' valve is to put it back in the box you got it from and fit the 'F' valve...

<tuffty/>
 
Not to me...wastegate going into tip? what engine code is it, like tufty says most engine codes do not like this valve, APY code dont seem to mind them as it is a dummer ECU
 
Last edited:
Its a BAM
S3DAVE, i'm liking the thumbs up. I think i have closure, like when the divorse papers come through the door.
 
Allegedly good on APY Engine..... No good on mine lol..... Limp mode on numerous occasions back to F Valve.... True Dat True Dat....
 
<tuffty/> said:
I would change the N75 to an 'F' variant... J's are spikey and normally throw the engine into limp mode...

The biggest fail people have fitting B5 TIPs is not putting enough sealant around the alloy billet where it fixes to the turbo... if no sealant or very little sealant is used you will have probs...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

What problems would arise if not enough sealant was used out of intrest?
 
Sealant, that my next port of call.
Good blast in the car earlier and it seems a lot better now.
 
superkarl said:
air that the turbo is sucking in escaping. it wont be getting what the maf is telling the engine its getting.
Click to expand...

Right that makes sense, how much sealant is enough though? When I put my b5 tip on I put some around the inner rim of the alloy, but worried I didn't put enough!!
 
Rang the mechanic and he confirmed he put a good smear all the way around,enough to stop any escaping air. Result
 
i was about to start a thread with a very similar question - but im gonna be a cheeky ****** and jump in here (unless i get told off :()

ive recently had my car mapped, on the dyno run it would boost really well upto 5500rpm ish then just dump all boost and drop out, i was advised fit forge 007p (which i have done), ive recently changed the maf anyway and i was wondering if the n75 valve is my problem?

through 1st and 2nd it pulls great then if you hold third till 5300rpm then it drops all the boost out and feels like you've hit a limiter - does this sound about right to be a knackered n75?

by the way its a 97 1.8T with AGU engine...

Thanks guys
 
audi upgrades
dont be mean to my little turbo...... its not the size that matters you know! :sorry:
 
s3dave said:
Its probably the ko3 that has run out of puff....:)
Click to expand...

It shouldn't sound like it hits a limiter at 5500 rpm though!

Mine goes way past that!....although I am aware that my turbo has the power of your average hair dryer!
 
eddieantifreeze said:
i was about to start a thread with a very similar question - but im gonna be a cheeky ****** and jump in here (unless i get told off :()

ive recently had my car mapped, on the dyno run it would boost really well upto 5500rpm ish then just dump all boost and drop out, i was advised fit forge 007p (which i have done), ive recently changed the maf anyway and i was wondering if the n75 valve is my problem?

through 1st and 2nd it pulls great then if you hold third till 5300rpm then it drops all the boost out and feels like you've hit a limiter - does this sound about right to be a knackered n75?

by the way its a 97 1.8T with AGU engine...

Thanks guys
Click to expand...

Could be a tired turbo, could be N75 (doubt it though) could be limp mode... without proper diagnostics at this stage its difficult to say... first port of call is VCDS and fault codes

<tuffty/>
 
thanks guys - besides feeling all small and unmanly ill have a look when i can, possibly phone r-tech and see what they say.....
 
sorry to hijack the thread haha, got a agu k03 turbo stage one revo, is there a uprated n75 valve for them? Some one told me they put a uprated one on that held the boost longer and it went alot better..
 
a3 1.8t said:
sorry to hijack the thread haha, got a agu k03 turbo stage one revo, is there a uprated n75 valve for them? Some one told me they put a uprated one on that held the boost longer and it went alot better..
Click to expand...

Nope... if you have a remap then thats about it other than getting a K03s

<tuffty/>
 
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