Top end tapping/rattle

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fishers3

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Hi guys

8 weeks ago I got in my S3 after a long drive (the morning after) and the attached video is what I was greeted with, which was lovely! YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

It's been at a VAG specialist for 6-7 weeks now and following has been changed:
  • Oil pump
  • Cam belt and tensioner
  • 4 hydraulic lifters which seemed to be a bit loose
It's still the same! I'm getting really desperate now and want my car back so just wondered if anyone had any ideas as to what it could be? I'm releuctant to take it to Audi for obvious reasons and don't want to drive it to another garage for risk of further damage.

The oil spray bar is working and oil seems to be getting through fine so we're really stumped.

Any comments appreciated.

Many thanks.

Chris.
 
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we need a password for the video.

Could it be the cam chain tensioner?
 
couldnt see the video

possibility of little end bearings?......any shiny bits in the oil?
 
It could be the injectors, my top end is quite tappy but I can tell it's the injectors and not the lifters.
 
Yes the oil pick up was check and cleaned when the oil pumP was change , cant see it being the timming chain tensioner , not cuming from that side of the engine , just rang the stealers to see how much they wud charge to spend a hour on it , they wanted 126 for the first hour and 105 after
 
update: well then, i decided to take the engine apart myself to save paying any more labour , took me 3 hours to get the head off yesterday couldn't see anything with head, took the sump off this morning and removed the piston closest to the gearbox and found there was a 15 degree bend in the con rod .... oh dear , how the engine was running still with no miss-fire etc etc , so glad ive found the problem , order new part tomorrow, then put back together Saturday .,,.,.,.,.,., booooyaaaaa
 
At least you have found the problem, are you using upgraded parts or standard?
 
Just one with a good second hand source , I've notice a dent on the bottom of the piston where it has hit the crank , guna need new piston too and a set of piston rings ,
 
Bit of an update for your interest, con rod bent from water being sucked in on a very wet motorway journey. Pretty much there now but having a bit of a problem putting the camshafts back in to be timed properly. I've done a quick search but can't find anything. Does anyone know if there's a certain way this should be done in case i'm missing a trick? Ta
 
fishers3 said:
Bit of an update for your interest, con rod bent from water being sucked in on a very wet motorway journey. Pretty much there now but having a bit of a problem putting the camshafts back in to be timed properly. I've done a quick search but can't find anything. Does anyone know if there's a certain way this should be done in case i'm missing a trick? Ta
Click to expand...


i could email you some elsawin pages as a pdf if that helps......if you pm me your address / engine code etc
 
Hope this doesn't clog the internet up for everybody!!!:


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thanks for that great help , put it back together this morning and cant turn the engine by hand , wouldn't move at all , guna go out and rechecked my timing
 
been trying to put the vernier pulley back on with the belt still attach and not slacken to get away with ******* around with the tensioner , sum how ive managed to round off the notch on the vernier pulley , anyone got one lying around ? or where can i get one ? Can I use any 1.8t pulley
 
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im going to take the cams back out and start again , so if i set the crank pulley to tdc , then re fit the camshafts with the tdc timing mark on the chain side spot on , will this work because im not 100% sure that any of my timing marks are correct ....any help is appreciated
 
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Have you used the original shell from the bent rod or new ones? Credit for having a go but be careful it does not end in disaster, if the engine wont turn over there is something badly wrong...
 
Nope use all new big end bearings , I think it's to do with my timing , once the cams are out again is it possible to set the crank On tdc mark , then put the cams back in with mark spot on Up top , is this possible ???
 
Take the cams and spark plugs out, and see if the bottom end will turn over freely.

If it doesnt, you've done something wrong when fitting the rod/piston/bearing.

When i fitted my cams, i pushed the engine about 30degrees past TDC. That way, the valves wont collide with anything as the pistons are part way down the bore. Once the cams are in and set to TDC, you can carefully wind the bottom end back to TDC and fit the belt.
 
That's we're ive gone wrong , just dOne it like I'd do a cambelt set both top and bottom to tdc , but were I've taking the cams that changes everything
 
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