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Thread: Haldex problem

  1. #1
    2000 a4 1.8tqs-yellow

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    Haldex problem

    Its not working on my car at the moment so i scanned it today and it said something about a mechanical fualt and something about intermittent. I cleared the code so i cant remember exactly what it said so ill drive it again and see if it comes back. Hopefully its not telling me its goosed.

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  3. #2
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    What was the actual fault code?

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    s3schofield's Avatar
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    bit vague what did the code relate to engine or transmission
    Audi S3 8L 2001 imola yellow autobahn tip, heatshield, metal mesh cone filter, apr r1 DV, REVO stage1, SPS box, Weitec coilovers, forge short shift kit, bosch aero wipers, 20mm rear spacers Wanted 3"Dp Decat rear arms pm me

    my progress thread http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-f...ss-thread.html

  5. #4
    2000 a4 1.8tqs-yellow

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    I just scanned the haldex. Can't remember the code as I cleared it. Went for a drive and the code hasn't come back. It said something about an intermittent mechanical fault. It may have said something about clutch but I can't remember. I should have put what it said on here before I cleared it.

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    cecilthesausage's Avatar
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    True Dat True Dat....

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    BENJAMIN's Avatar
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    Common code before the clutch gives up and locks on! Change the haldex oil and filter ASAP! The code relates to the haldex clutch plates sticking together and not releasing, normally due to a lack of or dirty oil!

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    2000 a4 1.8tqs-yellow

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    That's the first thing I'm going to do to see if it helps. It doesn't engage at all just now anyway. Hopefully changing the oil and filter will fix it. Prob get oil and a filter next week. I'll keep checking to see if the code comes back too.

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BENJAMIN View Post
    Common code before the clutch gives up and locks on! Change the haldex oil and filter ASAP! The code relates to the haldex clutch plates sticking together and not releasing, normally due to a lack of or dirty oil!
    Useful info

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Hopefully new oil will free it all up. When the haldex clutches seize it locks the car in permanent 4wd, it feels like driving a land rover with the diff locks on. ( impossible to turn at low speed, you'll stall it before being able to move when on full lock) let us know how you get on!

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    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    sorry to bring up an old thread, but its better than starting a new one and it shows im using the search button . currently having a bloody trauma with my car. burning oil, so was advised to change oil and filter then drive it about and see if it clears, which it hasnt. anyway whilst doing all this driving ive noticed the car feels really heavy at low speeds like someone is trying to pull my car, and whilst turning at low speeds the esp light flashes (sometimes). oil and filter was changed at 102k, im now at abou 108k. so surely it cant be crap oil making the clutch stick? can it? so what else could cause this? also noticed mpg has dropped a bit, weather thats because the car is 'dragging' if thats the right word. i dont no. car is booked in monday for new valve stem seals, head gasket and waterpump. is it worth an oil change on haldex? cant really afford it because of all the other work. but needs must!
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  12. #11
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    would this cause it? surely a broken earth would either make it not work at all?

    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  13. #12
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    If the oil hasn't been changed that you know of then its worth doing regardless... oil is every 20k and filter every 40k on the haldex but on mapped cars that get driven with a degree of 'spirit' I would personally halve that and go 10k/20k accordingly

    Dragging rear diff is a sticking plate issue... some have suggested an oil change seems to fix it but as the haldex is a dry clutch system I am not so convinced...

    Check this out...
    The Audi TT Forum :: View topic - Rear Diff Haldex Dissection After Diff Was Destroyed

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  14. #13
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Check the stickies mate... been discussed loads of times... I even mentioned it in my build thread recently as I had my earth strap break..

    <tuffty/>

    Quote Originally Posted by S3featesV9 View Post
    would this cause it? surely a broken earth would either make it not work at all?

    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    well i had the car taken into audi and they replaced the haldex oil and filter at 102k. a 6k miles ago. before then it wasnt done since 75k that im aware of. so soon as i realised this i had it done. think ill get the garage to drop the oil and change it monday. and replace the earth. just hoping that the pump hasnt started to fail and not depressurising system and causing he clutch plates to stick like that tt owner. really would top it all off. what problems should i get from that snapped earth then?

    on the plus side, once everything is sorted. the car should be sweet as ive had everything fail and be replaced in the last 2 years!
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  16. #15
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    yeah i read the stickies bud, bill was saying that the system wasnt working thoug? id imagine thats due to the corroded pin he found.

    im prettty sure my haldex works, dont get front wheels spin anyway. just a dragging feel at low speeds and flickering esp light sometimes
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  17. #16
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Snapped earth will give comms issues to the haldex controller and may give intermittent operation from the haldex... that said, mine had broken and I never had any issue with mine... I would have noticed

    The haldex clutch default position is disconnected so lack of pump pressure won't in itself cause an issue but if the plates can't fully engage due to lack of pressure from a faulty pump and/or lack of oil changes then it would be the same as slipping the clutch alot and cause excessive wear which in turn could be why the plates stick...

    Its imperative the haldex is regularly serviced which seems to be an issue on these cars now as they change hands more regularly and start getting serviced outside of the dealer network...

    While yours has been done recently it may have developed the fault previously before your time and sadly you have picked up the result of this...

    Like I said, mapped cars should be looking at doing this more regularly imo....

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  18. #17
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    well im going to have it changed i think, would do it myself bu cant get to audi as that would mean driving my car 15 miles, which with my current oil burning smoke issue, isnt a good idea. any idea if ECP stock it?
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  19. #18
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Dunno... I got mine from TPS or GSF in the past....

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  20. #19
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    just spoke to audi to order up a new earth strap. the part isnt listed or available apprently, they said it must of been put on as aftermarket. then went on to say its a wet clutch system? are they actually complete idiots?
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  21. #20
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    No, they are correct.

  22. #21
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    really?

    tuffty mention its a dry clutch system (Dragging rear diff is a sticking plate issue... some have suggested an oil change seems to fix it but as the haldex is a dry clutch system I am not so convinced...
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  23. #22
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3featesV9 View Post
    just spoke to audi to order up a new earth strap. the part isnt listed or available apprently, they said it must of been put on as aftermarket. then went on to say its a wet clutch system? are they actually complete idiots?
    Its a std part iirc... I just bought a short pre-made earth strap from Halfrauds for a fiver...

    Pretty sure the haldex is a dry system on 8L's... it may have changed for later cars and the DSG box uses a wet clutch...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  24. #23
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    just used awdwiki and that states gen1 haldex 1998-onwards as wet

    Haldex | awd, 4x4, 4wd, 4motion, quattro, xDrive, SH-AWD, Haldex, Torsen, wiki - How it works

    good info on there!
    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  25. #24
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Good work... I stand corrected

    Makes sense considering the amount of crap that can end up in the filter...

    <tuffty/>
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    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  26. #25
    S3featesV9's Avatar
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    just spoke to someone that has said the earthing is vital to stop the control unit getting odd values. so being snapped could either make it not work at all, or make it sit in a 50/50. which will work oil alot harder which will in turn lower the life of it and cause plate issues. so sounds like (if they are correct) the earthing issue has caused it to overwork. hopefully new earth and oil will cur. ill post soon as its done. and hopefully valve stem seal replacements solve oil issue too. cheers for all your help AGAIN tuffty. next time ill jus pm you for help haha

    MODS - Custom Code phase 1, 007p DV, various powerflex bushes, EBC grooved and drilled - red stuff pads, N249 deletion. Badger5 V2 80mm TIP. Scorpion backbox + custom centre section, LCR front splitter, Jetex Fr-08001, R32 rear ARB, Forged IE rifle drilled rods, 20mm rear & 15mm front spacers.

    TO DO - Coilovers, adjustable tie arms, DP/mani/decat, FMIC and new remap


  27. #26
    2000 a4 1.8tqs-yellow

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    I just acanned it for codes just now so i coild start looking into this properly and now im not getting any code but still no haldex. The joys.

  28. #27
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    Hi Guys,
    Sorry to jump in on this but Ive had the same problem for a few weeks now with the rear wheels feeling very tight and dragging on full lock etc. Well ive changed the Oil and still the same story so im going to (as recommended by my mechanic) change the haldex clutch unit.
    My question is does anyone know anywhere to buy this for a good price online as Ive not been able to find it anywhere.
    My mechanic quoted about 250euro or so for the part.
    Any advice would be great, cheers guys

  29. #28
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Parts for kit like this is traditionally dealer/TPS only...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  30. #29
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    Ah right, I was thinking it might be was just hoping there was a cheaper way to replace it.
    Cheers Mate

 

 

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