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  1. #1
    16Klappe's Avatar
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    How To Clean Your TB And Paint The Inlet Manifold

    Round 2.

    -

    Right, I had so much to do today like tidy the garden, do the washing, tidy the shed, go to the dump, clean out the animals etc etc. So I started with the most important one first, and cleaned my TB out.

    I have done this on an AGU, with a throttle cable. I am unsure if an AUM is the same just without the throttle cable step, but personally I'd give it a go and use this is a rough guide.

    Read this and attempt the work at your own risk, I am not affiliated with or voicing the opinion of ASN. I just got bored and did this myself because I fancied it, this was the first time I'd done something like this on my A3 so it was all new to me and I learnt as I went along.


    For this I am going to refer to the TB as having two sides, square side being the manifold side and round side being the rubber inlet hose side.

    First thing to do is to take a picture of it all so you know how it goes back.

    Then remove the throttle cable from the TB by pulling the butterfly open and unclipping the cable end.

    There is a take off on top of the TB, undo the spring clip with pliers and pull it back.



    Next remove the jubilee clip from the rubber inlet hose and pull the hose clear of the TB. Don't be surpassed if it looks like this in there -



    Just give it a wipe and carry on.

    Next there are 4 allen bolts which hold the TB to the manifold, undo these four (5mm) making sure not to lose them. With these undone the TB will pull clear of the manifold allowing access to the one electrical connector under the inlet on the round side. (it is secured with a spring clip)

    And fingers crossed you will have the TB free in your hands!





    At this point take it inside, or onto a bench and soak it with a good spray of carb/TB cleaner and have a cup of tea. I used Demon Shine because I want to find 101 uses for the stuff.

    Come back to it and give it a good spray out with cleaner and agitate with a tooth brush, making sure to open the butterfly and scrub around the discs that forms the butterfly.

    Give it one last spray out with the TB cleaner and then wipe it through with a DRY cloth.





    Now the refit is the exact reversal of removal, so fingers crossed you can go back through the steps and put it back together. But if you're a man, you'll want to read on.



    That looks a bit pants doesn't it?

    So lets paint the inlet manifold

    Most people just leave it on, use a bit of tape and mask it up and then do it in situ. But I'm much more of a pikey than that, so here goes.

    Remove the plastic trim from under the front of the manifold (this is super easy) as well as the metal bracket which is held on by two 5mm allen bolts and supports the dipstick guide.

    First thing to do is to remove the two remaining plugs at the end of the electrical part of the injector rail, one goes just under the cambelt cover into the head, and the other loops back on itself to a little sensor just behind where the MAF bolts to on the manifold. Both are spring clips and will come off by hand.



    Unclip the remainder of the electrical rail from the injectors (4 plastic spring clips with electrical connectors) and rail and twist it out the way to the right (should sit neatly around the battery box)



    Next up there are two 5mm allen bolts securing the injector rail to the manifold, undo those and then follow the vacuum lines on the far right and unplug them from the inlet manifold. The injector rail should then pop out, injectors and all with a little bit of force. Don't be alarmed if a little fuel leaks out, it SHOULD stop when the lines are cleared. I managed to rest mine on top of the cam cover.



    You will now have this (same pic, mega lolz!)



    Next disconnect all vacuum hose under the inlet, there are two on the far right. The connectors can be seen here -



    There is obviously the large one on the far right hand side which has to be removed as well. Remember to keep all the clips!

    Then there is the 5mm allen bolts and the two 10mm nuts that are securing the inlet to the head, undo all of these and the manifold will be sat on this bracket here -



    Undo the bracket and fingers crossed the manifold will be off!

    Now, you may have got a little bit scared when you saw things like this -



    But don't worry, fingers crossed that will clean up. My injector seats look good as new after 177K, if in doubt though take them to a specialist. At this point if you can I'd suggest searching for the DIY injector cleaning thread aswell, it may be of use to you.

    Now comes the cleaning and painting!

    I removed the little sensor -



    And sprayed the manifold down with Wonder Wheels, I left it for 5 mins, sprayed it again and then threw it in a bath of boiling water. I would NOT advise ANYBODY else do this, because it'll ruin the bath.



    I sprayed the inside of the manifold down with WW as well, and rinsed it out in the shower.





    Mega win!

    After that I gave the injector seats a clean up using a cloth and GT85, not sure if this is the best way to do it or advisable at all. But it seemed right!

    I than let it dry and masked up the injector seats and masked up any inlet or outlets.

    Then I sprayed away with this -



    And it ended up looking quite nice



    Now the refit is the exact reversal of removal, however I would say mount the MAF onto the inlet first because it is a pain to do the bolts up otherwise.



    -

    I'm really happy with the way it looks, will be doing my girlfriends car the same ASAP.





    Last edited by 16Klappe; 3rd October 2011 at 17:20.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

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  3. #2
    dannyh's Avatar
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    Ooo this looks interesting

  4. #3
    Reverse Gear

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    hi

    did you have to re-aline the TB once you took it off?

  5. #4
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    sorry if this is a dumb question but what is the big silver pipe that is running from the front of the bay to the rear by the filter
    The weapon of choice... The a3

  6. #5
    16Klappe's Avatar
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    I didnt have to re align my tb no, I checked it on VAGCOM and it is spot on.

    Thats the pipe for the front mount intercooler.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  7. #6
    Smokey_clark's Avatar
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    lol love it, nice one mate.

  8. #7
    Kaibo's Avatar
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    Is your current engine 177k? Have you needed to have much done to it to keep it running? And finally, what power are you running?

    Cheers Kai

  9. #8
    16Klappe's Avatar
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    Hi Kai, last dyno was 229bhp with a couple of faults. I had a data log of 189GP/S the other day which is 236bhp ish.



    -

    I haven't owned this car for long so I can't comment personally, but I've known the previous owners for the last 4 years really well and it's been super reliable. It drives tighter and nicer than most cars on half its miles thankfully.
    Last edited by 16Klappe; 3rd October 2011 at 22:08.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  10. #9
    Kaibo's Avatar
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    Thats impressive, whats been done to it? Well mines on 178k but if it wasn't on the dash you'd never know, brilliant engines.

  11. #10
    16Klappe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaibo View Post
    Thats impressive, whats been done to it? Well mines on 178k but if it wasn't on the dash you'd never know, brilliant engines.
    Yeah they are properly good. Personally I would say that pre facelift cars are much better built than facelift, I've seen dozens of facelift cars with flaky interiors and shoddy paintwork and missing trim and things.

    It's had a fair bit of work, K03s turbo,THS Performance Exhaust Manifold, Longlife Custom exhaust, Turborevs front mount intercooler kit, Forge 007p, Forge DV relocation kit, Forge Turbo intake pipe, R-Tech Custom stage 2 ,Custom catch tank, VR6 clutch and G60 flywheel upgrade, TT steering rack, THS uprated Engine mounts, Weitec GT Coilovers, H & R front and rear Anti roll bars,S3 312mm front Brakes with drilled and grooved discs, S3 256mm Rear brakes, Goodridge braided lines. Needs a bit of money spending on it at the moment to put it right, but she'll be all good again soon.
    Last edited by 16Klappe; 3rd October 2011 at 22:31.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  12. #11
    Prawn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16Klappe View Post
    H & R front and rear Anti roll bars
    am I going to have to chase you over the entire internet, correcting you on this every single time?

    YOUR ARB'S ARE EIBACH! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  13. #12
    s3dave's Avatar
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    Nice one Jardo, i take it you got the bath and shower clean too before the girlfriend saw it?

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    am I going to have to chase you over the entire internet, correcting you on this every single time?

    YOUR ARB'S ARE EIBACH! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Haha i read it and thought hhm Prawn will be posting up correcting that...scroll down and its the next post :D

    Cactus green 8L S3 - B5 TIP + Jetex, Revised 007p, R32 rear ARB, AP Coilovers, Compbrake rear arms, Full Powerflexed dogbone.

  15. #14
    16Klappe's Avatar
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    Haha, sorry Prawn, evvvvvery time!

    Yeah I cleaned the bathroom first, well kind of...
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  16. #15
    Kaibo's Avatar
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    Yeah they are properly good. Personally I would say that pre facelift cars are much better built than facelift, I've seen dozens of facelift cars with flaky interiors and shoddy paintwork and missing trim and things.
    Weird, I just had to go out and check I did have a pre facelift, you summed mine up quite well

    It's had a fair bit of work, K03s turbo,THS Performance Exhaust Manifold, Longlife Custom exhaust, Turborevs front mount intercooler kit, Forge 007p, Forge DV relocation kit, Forge Turbo intake pipe, R-Tech Custom stage 2 ,Custom catch tank, VR6 clutch and G60 flywheel upgrade, TT steering rack, THS uprated Engine mounts, Weitec GT Coilovers, H & R front and rear Anti roll bars,S3 312mm front Brakes with drilled and grooved discs, S3 256mm Rear brakes, Goodridge braided lines. Needs a bit of money spending on it at the moment to put it right, but she'll be all good again soon.
    Pretty standard then what does the TT steering rack do for the A3?

  17. #16
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    Quicker, reduces the amount of turns lock to lock im pretty sure.

    Cactus green 8L S3 - B5 TIP + Jetex, Revised 007p, R32 rear ARB, AP Coilovers, Compbrake rear arms, Full Powerflexed dogbone.

  18. #17
    DaveA3's Avatar
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    aww i see no pics

    Audi A3 1.8T Sport (AGU) - 2000
    Engine: Carbonio CAI/Jetex JR Hybrid Induction, Forge 007p DV, Forge TIP, Longlife S/S Custom Exhaust system, R-Tech Stage 1 Remap, Creation Motorsport Boost Pipe Kit.
    Exterior and Chassis: 18" Cades Tyrus, Euro Wipers, low on JOM Coilovers, Eibach Front & Rear ARB's, Black Angel Eye Headlights, 6000K HID's, S3 Brakes.
    For Sale PM ME - £2500 Mods Inc

  19. #18
    Prawn's Avatar
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    Standard A3 steering rack is 3.5 turns from lock to lock, the TT/S3 rack is 2.7 turns, and makes a massive difference to steering feel

    Can't really be done on a facelift car though, because the steering angle input sensors confuses things, and triggers the ESP on long sweeping bends, as it sees an unexpected change in wheel speed for a given steering input.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

 

 

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