What to get in order for my hybrid setup

[s3gazz]

Just wondering what to get in order for my propper Cr hybrid set up list of things I have got

Xs downpipe de cat
3 intercoolers
007p yellow spring
jetex filter
3" tip

At the moment my car is running at 260 bhp with a custom map.
The other thing is it is surging on full boost 22 psi .

Now I'm after the correct parts in the ryt order I should go
I.e

rods
Milltek cat back
largeport head
wmi
one big front mount intercooler
xs or jbs manifold

Need to get things in the right order that's all guys and if any of them will help my surge out abit then then that's a big yes

I'm buying my genusis 550cc injectors at the end of month so that's out of the way.

Cheers Gaz

 

[superkarl]

You don't need a catback, that's purely for sound/looks.
Obv you need rods and all the bits to go with that like gaskets, bearings.
Id then go for a manifold.
Then intercooler.
And finally custom map.

Can't help with surging tho sorry

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Rods are a must
Millteck cat back helps
WMI helps
I think one big intercooler would be a better setup depending on what intercooler you get
Manifold not really that necessary
Bigger injectors are a much 440cc/550cc best have a word with badger5

 

[<tuffty/>]

First run less boost... that will stop your surging...

Next, in order.... all of it.... (maybe the milltek can come last)

Mate, told you this loads of times... really surprised the thing hasn't gone pop yet running that boost with std injectors tbh

Anyway... LP head and a map that brings the boost in gradually to circumvent surge... the hybrids still seem to surge on large ports but Bill has recently done Barks S3 and sorted the surge in mapping...

Seems Welly's car is the exception rather than the rule with hybrids.... lol...

Rods = peace of mind and as you should go large port too then do it all together...

Buy the biggest FMIC you can really... the toyosport one Welly used just seems to work but if you want fogs to be retained then go for the AH Fabs V2 (not as expensive as you may think... ring AH Fabs and ask for Lars...)

Exhaust manifold... tough one.... XS Power is cheap, should hopefully be more consistent fitting wise but still no longevity information as yet... JBS... good quality, more expensive but... from what I have seen its looks restrictive at the collector and the one I saw did crak although hopefully that was just due to a pre-production issue...

WMI will help keep EGT's down and allow you to dial in more timing to get over the 300bhp mark

Mapping... you need to get the map sorted for the right size injectors and to control surge...

Milltek... if budget is tight, do the above first before doing this...

22psi with a hybrid on std injectors...

;P

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

Ye carl rods are getting done soon as I get the manifold so can do them together less messing about the intercooler I'm getting is same as westys and think s3dave might fabricate 60mm 90 deg bends on to it

 

[s3gazz]

First run less boost... that will stop your surging...

Next, in order.... all of it.... (maybe the milltek can come last)

Mate, told you this loads of times... really surprised the thing hasn't gone pop yet running that boost with std injectors tbh

Anyway... LP head and a map that brings the boost in gradually to circumvent surge... the hybrids still seem to surge on large ports but Bill has recently done Barks S3 and sorted the surge in mapping...

Seems Welly's car is the exception rather than the rule with hybrids.... lol..

Rods = peace of mind and as you should go large port too then do it all together...

Buy the biggest FMIC you can really... the toyosport one Welly used just seems to work but if you want fogs to be retained then go for the AH Fabs V2 (not as expensive as you may think... ring AH Fabs and ask for Lars..

Exhaust manifold... tough one.... XS Power is cheap, should hopefully be more consistent fitting wise but still no longevity information as yet... JBS... good quality, more expensive but... from what I have seen its looks restrictive at the collector and the one I saw did crak although hopefully that was just due to a pre-production issue...
WMI will help keep EGT's down and allow you to dial in more timing to get over the 300bhp mark

Mapping... you need to get the map sorted for the right size injectors and to control surge...

Milltek... if budget is tight, do the above first before doing this...

22psi with a hybrid on std injectors...

;P

<tuffty/>

cheers tuffty well first going to get boost sorted.

I'll get all the parts then and ring ah tomoz I'll do it all at ones rather than in bits think I'll go for the xs manifold when it's out what large port souls I get or don't it matter agu , aeb

 

[<tuffty/>]

cheers tuffty well first going to get boost sorted.

I'll get all the parts then and ring ah tomoz I'll do it all at ones rather than in bits think I'll go for the xs manifold when it's out what large port souls I get or don't it matter agu , aeb

AGU or AEB... only thing to watch out for is early AEB's had a different tensioner and a raised mount on the head which needs to be machined off...

Looks like this but should be flat...

...like this...

Not a prob if its there but just be aware..

Also, get the exhaust guides replaced...

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

AGU or AEB... only thing to watch out for is early AEB's had a different tensioner and a raised mount on the head which needs to be machined off...

Looks like this but should be flat...

...like this...

Not a prob if its there but just be aware..

Also, get the exhaust guides replaced...

<tuffty/>

cheers how much do these go for pal and best place to get the guides from

 

[<tuffty/>]

Price varies... I paid £100 for one on ebay... get the guides done at your favourite local engine refurb place... cost me £90 for the guides, valve lapping and machining the lump off the tensioner mount..

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

Cheers I'll look about for one then hopfully all will happen around Christmas ha

 

[s3gazz]

Will a a3 1.8 t sport agu head fit my s3

 

[Dani_B19]

Yup.

 

[Paradox1]

how reliable are these hybrid turbos,I'm at the stage where I only need to get the turbo rebuilt,injectors fuel pump and a map.but don't want to go through all ryt hassle for it to last 10 minutes

 

[s3dave]

how reliable are these hybrid turbos,I'm at the stage where I only need to get the turbo rebuilt,injectors fuel pump and a map.but don't want to go through all ryt hassle for it to last 10 minutes

There is no reason they wont last as long as original if they have been rebuilt correctly..and the correct installation procedure has been followed...(pre oiled etc)

 

[badger5]

how reliable are these hybrid turbos,I'm at the stage where I only need to get the turbo rebuilt,injectors fuel pump and a map.but don't want to go through all ryt hassle for it to last 10 minutes

They will last well if treated properly..
they are made from BW parts, with uprated thrust washers over std ones..

Do not think its bolt on replacement without other work tho... Big Mystake!

 

[Paradox1]

ok I see thanks guys. if i fit the turbo,can I drive the car with the n75 dusconnected on my way to get it mapped?.

 

[badger5]

yep.. just dont rag it rotten
is your car wideband ecu or narrowband?

 

[Paradox1]

ok I get you.not sure what ecu it is bill but my car is a mk4 golf 18t AUM. 52 plate.I know this ua for a k04 but u guess the same applies to a k03 hybrid

 

[s3gazz]

Well I'm going to order the rods and aanything else I need when I get paid in two week so far worked it about to rufly £550 including head gasket , rods and bearings, head bolts ,

is there owt else wile I'm at it water pump was changed a year ago so don't no weather to change that I'll be putting all bits aside till I get largeport head and xs manifold then I'll be doing a built feed of the hole thing hopfully as for now n75 unpluged and running like this till sorted mapping will be done by Rs tunning in Leeds so properly lol as for wmi don't have a clue how to install or pit where so see about this latter

 

[s3dave]

Following on from this, i will probably give s3gazz a hand putting his new rods in,
A couple of Qs...
Do the cylinder bores need deglazing?
Will they need new piston rings and a regap of the rings?
Are standard bearings ok or go for heavy duty?
Would you recommend a new cambelt tensioner?

 

[Paradox1]

if you haven't done the tensioner before you go for the conversion

 

[badger5]

Following on from this, i will probably give s3gazz a hand putting his new rods in,
A couple of Qs...
Do the cylinder bores need deglazing?
Will they need new piston rings and a regap of the rings?
Are standard bearings ok or go for heavy duty?
Would you recommend a new cambelt tensioner?

If bores look ok.. I leave them.. if they show some light scores I deglaze them.. and if new rings, then you will need to gap them
oe bearings are fine but I use calico myself
new hyd tensioner probably a good idea if not done before

Q: Are you two guys related?

 

[s3gazz]

Thanks for the help guys and cheers dave for the questions would not of asked them lol don't like to feel like I'm doin peoples head in just want it done and no the engine won't go booooom

Unpluge n75 till done or lower boost to about 18 psi ish

 

[<tuffty/>]

Thanks for the help guys and cheers dave for the questions would not of asked them lol don't like to feel like I'm doin peoples head in just want it done and no the engine won't go booooom

Unpluge n75 till done or lower boost to about 18 psi ish

If you don't want boom then just unplug... tbh it will most likely boost creep anyway based on other hybrids I have seen...

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

If you don't want boom then just unplug... tbh it will most likely boost creep anyway based on other hybrids I have seen...

<tuffty/>

ok I'll do that cheers What will happen on boost creep tuffty and will it be safe

 

[<tuffty/>]

ok I'll do that cheers What will happen on boost creep tuffty and will it be safe

Boost typically starts to increase over what should be actuator pressure...

On actuator pressure you should only ever see whatever the actuator is set too... so a 0.8bar actuator will only give 0.8bar of boost... if you have creep then it will increase with the rpm... no idea where it will end up, really depends but have see over 20psi before...

Just keep an eye on it and if it creeps above your actuators rated pressure then change gear

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

I'll keep an eye out then pal I need to see what n75 valve a have on it as well hope it's a h if that's the one amk s use

 

[s3gazz]

Well checked my n75 valve today and it's an f valve so is that ok on an amk or should it be different

 

[<tuffty/>]

AMK use F as std...

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

I'll stick with that then is this ryt too tuffty n75 unpluged and running at 4 psi with foot down

 

[<tuffty/>]

oooooooo..... 4psi on actuator? thats not gonna cut it when its mapped... normally around 12psi for the actuator of a hybrid...

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

What's that mean then pal forge actuater or turbo **** lol

 

[<tuffty/>]

Means the actuator is too soft mate... either not enough preload and/or too small a spring... so you have a Forge actuator on your hybrid??

Hybrids need a stronger actuator than a std turbo for better boost control...

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

Soz pal mean I need forge actuater or can I try tern it up as iv not touched it since got it for cr a it came I thought it should be about 8 psi but twelve on hybrid that's loo

 

[s3gazz]

Does anyone no if I put preload on few turns and it's ok and goes up to about 10 12 psi will that mean if it's running 22 psi now it will shot up to 30 psi or just hold boost better cheers for any help

 

[<tuffty/>]

mate, considering the current state of your setup I would just leave it and wait for the tuner to sort out... if you mess about with it now you could do more harm than good...

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

So that's a don't turn it up then if it's going to harm it I'll leave but if not why not other people don't have a prob with it the actuater might not be set anyway

Apart from not have rods and injectors yet what so bad about the set up

 

[<tuffty/>]

So that's a don't turn it up then if it's going to harm it I'll leave but if not why not other people don't have a prob with it the actuater might not be set anyway

Apart from not have rods and injectors yet what so bad about the set up

Just adjusting the preload on something unknown is not the right way to do it... do you know what the actuator is rated at? adjusting the preload on an actuator rated at only 5psi is wrong if you are only getting 5psi... first things first you need an actuator rated at 0.8bar/12psi... then you test the crack pressure on the turbo adjusting the preload to ensure its opening correctly at the pressure intended... this can be done whilst the turbo is on the car but you will need to remove the charge pipe etc to get easy access to ensure the actuator rod nuts are tightened properly when done...

My advice is to leave it be until you are in a position to get it all sorted at the same time...

If you have to ask what is so bad with your current setup then you should be leaving it well alone... you cannot just fit a hybrid turbo, use a stage 1/2 map and expect it to work... the ME7.5 ECU with wideband is a pretty clever bit of kit and will make its best efforts to keep up with the increased airflow from the hybvrid... but it WILL max out the injectors and you WILL end up running the engine lean at high RPM under a lot of boost... please remember that airflow and boost are not the same... my GT30 on actuator pressure flows more than most remapped cars running 18/20psi...

Take it or leave it mate but my advice is to leave it as it is running as little boost pressure as possible until you have the injectors in and its been mapped... if its a CR hybrid I also assume it hasn't had the wastegate ported so its likely to boost creep anyway..

<tuffty/>

 

[s3gazz]

Cheers tuffty well I'll ring Cr tomoz find out what psi the actuater is rated at
if they say 0.8 bar then might give it a turn to see if it is the actuater that not set and then put it back a turn

The injectors I will be getting in the next two week I don't go past 4 1/2 rpm anyway and now n75 unpluged drive slow as a fart 3000 rpm

 

[s3gazz]

Had a word with Cr turbos today and they have told me my hybrid is running a standered actuater and cost 45 to uprate it to the 0.8 bar 12 psi actuater and he said I can turn the preload up two turns if I want with out it doing anything wrong

Think I'll be needing the uprated one then cheers tuffty what will the uprated one change or help