I have a Concert radio / cassette head unit with a CD Multichanger in the boot with sub.Full Bose set up.Front right speaker is often heavily distorted but not always and the mid right speaker does not work at all.Also no sound at all from the sub.Any advice where to start and I am missing out on some good sounds and don't really wanna waste money on stuff that may not even need replacing.Any advice greatly appreciated.
A3 Bose Concert Stereo
- Thread starter rusko007
- Start date
AndyMac
Retired from service
The Bose system does seem to suffer over time. The amp for the cabin speakers can suffer from dry joints, providing distortion or no sound, usually worse when the amp is cold. The speakers themselves often just give up. The sub has it's own separate amp inside the sub enclosure. This can also be unreliable.
firstly I would check the sub is actually connected. A lot of the subs in 8L's would have been messed around with, unplugged in leiu of an aftermarket install and may not have been plugged back in when the original system was put back in.
If the connection seems OK, check that the connector is receiving 12v perm live and 12v switched live when the HU is on:
If the lives are OK then chances are the amp or the speakers are at fault. Remove the front of the sub and check the impedance of the speakers, should be 1.5-2ohms. Also push the speaker cone inwards and check it is a smooth movement, not crunchy. If the speakers are OK then it must be the amp.
You can buy a replacement Bose sub and amp on ebay for around £80.
You can then use the speakers in the faulty sub to swap for the dodgy ones in the front door cards as they are the same unit.
The cabin amp can be repaired by reflowing the main solder joints, or a replacement found on ebay for around £40.
firstly I would check the sub is actually connected. A lot of the subs in 8L's would have been messed around with, unplugged in leiu of an aftermarket install and may not have been plugged back in when the original system was put back in.
If the connection seems OK, check that the connector is receiving 12v perm live and 12v switched live when the HU is on:
If the lives are OK then chances are the amp or the speakers are at fault. Remove the front of the sub and check the impedance of the speakers, should be 1.5-2ohms. Also push the speaker cone inwards and check it is a smooth movement, not crunchy. If the speakers are OK then it must be the amp.
You can buy a replacement Bose sub and amp on ebay for around £80.
You can then use the speakers in the faulty sub to swap for the dodgy ones in the front door cards as they are the same unit.
The cabin amp can be repaired by reflowing the main solder joints, or a replacement found on ebay for around £40.
AndyMac.Many thanks for the comprehensive advice.Haven't had chance to act yet on the subject but will do ASAP.
AndyMac - I joined up to this today, and I think I may have found the right thread to join! My S3 Bose system has distorted sound for about 15 min from cold startup and then the speaker sounds 'clear' and all is grand again. Very weird experience! Would you suggest I follow the above advice as well? Thanks so much - Michael
AndyMac
Retired from service
If it's temp related then chances are it's dry solder joints on the amps PCB. If you are handy with a soldering iron then reheat the main joints and suck out the old solder, and reflow with new.
one more thing pleaseeeeeeeeeee 
my bose setup aint distortred its just the bass which is a problem, it tends to jump from no bass to full bass on its own accord all the while driving could it be a loose wire
cheers darren
my bose setup aint distortred its just the bass which is a problem, it tends to jump from no bass to full bass on its own accord all the while driving could it be a loose wire cheers darren
AndyMac
Retired from service
Are you sure it's not the usual volume issue? HU design flaw which causes it to have a mind of its own. Either that or the subwoofer is intermittant. You need to feel the subwoofer when the bass cuts out and check it is indeed cutting out. Unlikely to be a loose wire as the connector is pretty solid, maybe just needs unplugging and plugging back in, but it's tricky to get to through the cubbyhole.
lloydsta101
Registered User
Andy, I may need a little help too... I have various problems with my Concert radio.
1) Firstly, I ALWAYS have to turn it off by the button when out of the car. After taking my key out of the ignition, it turns off as normal as it should. Although after a certain amount of time (after I've locked and left the car but sometimes even when I'm still in it) it comes back alive again and starts blaring the music out. There is no particular time scale to when it will come back on and sometimes doesn't happen at all. Annoying when you're eating your tea and a neighbor comes round to say your music is playing away to itself.
2) Secondly, it seems to be 'popping' more and more frequently. I describe it as popping, but basically it quickly restarts itself and the speakers pop. Mostly after first being turned on (can happen up to a maximum of 5 times in a row) but also happens after periods of time.
3) Lastly, the memory doesn't seem to work. Again, there are various patterns in which it will happen but if I try to create a new preset, it seems to wanna jump back to the old one constantly making it impossible to tune a different station in. Also, it hardly ever remembers where it was left. For example, if I'm listening to a radio station and decide to change to a CD... it will work fine, but then after being turned off and back on again it will have reverted back to the radio station (this also happen when the 'popping' occurs).
1) Firstly, I ALWAYS have to turn it off by the button when out of the car. After taking my key out of the ignition, it turns off as normal as it should. Although after a certain amount of time (after I've locked and left the car but sometimes even when I'm still in it) it comes back alive again and starts blaring the music out. There is no particular time scale to when it will come back on and sometimes doesn't happen at all. Annoying when you're eating your tea and a neighbor comes round to say your music is playing away to itself.
2) Secondly, it seems to be 'popping' more and more frequently. I describe it as popping, but basically it quickly restarts itself and the speakers pop. Mostly after first being turned on (can happen up to a maximum of 5 times in a row) but also happens after periods of time.
3) Lastly, the memory doesn't seem to work. Again, there are various patterns in which it will happen but if I try to create a new preset, it seems to wanna jump back to the old one constantly making it impossible to tune a different station in. Also, it hardly ever remembers where it was left. For example, if I'm listening to a radio station and decide to change to a CD... it will work fine, but then after being turned off and back on again it will have reverted back to the radio station (this also happen when the 'popping' occurs).
i had alook at my sub today.........had the music on and if i push my sub towards the wheel arch the bass kicks in, but as soon as i let go it goes off again lol is there a connector at the back of that that im pushing against or something or is in something internally.
AndyMac
Retired from service
Lloyd - you definately have a newer HU in a pre-facelift car. The HU was probably swapped out due to the known volume issue and they used one from a 2000+ A3. Either that or they had an aftermarket HU in there and swapped it back whe they came to sell it on. The newer ones are CANBUS controlled which is why it is not behaving itself. The wiring may also have been butchered to try and make it work. You need to pull the HU and post a pic of the wiring if it looks messed up.
Dplovin - there is only one connector on the Bose sub, it's black and is on the front where the speakers are, but right at the back so difficult to get your hands on it. You can see it here on the left
You need to wiggle just the wiring and see if this is the cause.
Dplovin - there is only one connector on the Bose sub, it's black and is on the front where the speakers are, but right at the back so difficult to get your hands on it. You can see it here on the left
You need to wiggle just the wiring and see if this is the cause.
lloydsta101
Registered User
Thanks for the reply Andy. To be honest, your suggestion that the HU is the newer model seems to be the more likely answer... is there any way I can tell this for definite (as the previous owner seems to think it is the original). Also, is there a fix for this or does it mean I need a new 'old' replacement.
I've just remembered that I actually posted about this same problem nearly 2 years ago when I first got the car. It sort of cleared up for a while which is why I never really pursued it, but then it came back with a vengeance. I posted a pic of the wiring etc. back then and you actually responded to say that it looked completely untouched. See the following thread (pic has died though)...
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/82225-problems-audi-concert-radio.html
I've just remembered that I actually posted about this same problem nearly 2 years ago when I first got the car. It sort of cleared up for a while which is why I never really pursued it, but then it came back with a vengeance. I posted a pic of the wiring etc. back then and you actually responded to say that it looked completely untouched. See the following thread (pic has died though)...
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/82225-problems-audi-concert-radio.html
AndyMac
Retired from service
There is no way round it, but if it is just a CANBUS HU in a non CANBUS car then it shouldn't be behaving the way you describe. The only issue should be that you have to turn it on/off manually and it will turn itself off after an hour as essentially it will never receive an ignition on when you start the car. You shouldn't lose memory settings as it has a permanent live as standard.
lloydsta101
Registered User
Ah right, so in short... it's b*ggered. It can't be the CANBUS version then as it doesn't have to be turned on/off manually and doesn't turn itself off after an hour (I know this as I've done 2-3 hours trips in the car before and it hasn't turned off). The only reason I turn it off manually is because it will often come to life again on it's own without any key in the ignition.
Thanks for trying to help Andy, but looks like I'm going to have to get Audi on the case if I want it fixed for good.
Thanks for trying to help Andy, but looks like I'm going to have to get Audi on the case if I want it fixed for good.
AndyMac
Retired from service
You are joking! Do NOT take it to Audi, they will just replace everything until the problem goes away (as usual) they know nothing about stereos. Bear in mind they will charge you £400+ just to swap the HU.
Just get another Concert off ebay and give that a go, and repost the pic of the wiring just in case that is the issue. Or better still buy a decent HU (aftermarket)
Just get another Concert off ebay and give that a go, and repost the pic of the wiring just in case that is the issue. Or better still buy a decent HU (aftermarket)
Hi AndyMac,
I have a Bose chorus system and wanted to upgrade/change the system to accept hands free, blue tooth, usb.
There are thee normal issues with N/S/F door speaker crackling, I have re-soldered the amp main connections as well, volume control jumps from zero to max when adjusting and sound quality has deteriorated over time.
I have a Sony updated unit and purchased a loom conversion kit and tried this out but sounded even worse as it conflicted with the amp.
Any suggestions on the cheapest solution, i.e. change everything or some of the items?
Thanks Mike.
I have a Bose chorus system and wanted to upgrade/change the system to accept hands free, blue tooth, usb.
There are thee normal issues with N/S/F door speaker crackling, I have re-soldered the amp main connections as well, volume control jumps from zero to max when adjusting and sound quality has deteriorated over time.
I have a Sony updated unit and purchased a loom conversion kit and tried this out but sounded even worse as it conflicted with the amp.
Any suggestions on the cheapest solution, i.e. change everything or some of the items?
Thanks Mike.
