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Thread: t-sport remap

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    t-sport remap

    hi there i have a 98 t-sport and ive just recently got a k03s turbo off a 2001 seat leon for it im already running a uprated smic a piper x panel filter a 3" decat pipe and 2.5" staright through stainless system with twin 3" tails and a adjustable bov the engine is the agu model im just wondering where is best value for money to have my car remapped and is the any other bits i would be better off fitting prior to a remap to get better bhp figures im looking to get about the magic 230 bhp figure from it which i beleive is pretty much max for the k03s turbo any advice would be great folks

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    sounds like you have covered most bases to me mate,uprated KO3s will see 230bhp with the other mods you have described.

    the AGU can run fine with either a recirc valve or dump valve however the recirc valve is the one to go for and it does make a cool sound too.

    what SMIC are you running?? is it the turborevs one?

    the panel filter is a good mod but if it was me i would go for a cone or at least smooth the airbox and a large cold air feed.

    remap wise i think i would take the car to R-Tech as they do a few of these kind or remaps and i here they work is top notch

    ECU Remapping, Performance Engine Tuning, R-tech

    other than that i would probably put an FMIC on prior to the map if funds allow it if not then its somthing for a later date but another remap may be nessasary to gain the most from it as you may loose a couple of PSI's

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    i am thinking of getting the k03s turbo as i am currently running at 190bhp if it gets up to 230bhp will the gearbox be okay? As i have heard the diffs can be soft on them.

    regards tom

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    hi there danny yes i have the turbo revs smic and i am gonna mod the front bumper to allow more air to hit the intercooler i was considering a piper x induction kit aswell but wasnt to sure on how well it would run as i heard the better option is the panel filter im quite new to the vag scene so im doing alot of research on the net prior to purchasing my parts im a qualified mechanic and recently gone into the bodywork side of things so youd think id have a good idea on stuff but until i got my a3 i would of thought modding it would be as simple as my old scooby and it aint due to the sensor positions and lack of parts about due to them being more solid and hardly getting broken however it is far more fun to drive and surprises the best of people as to how nippy they are so to me 230 bhp considering its weight and the fact its fwd must be a whole heap of fun. however as a3 1.8t said above im unsure as to how the gearbox will hold out so can you shed any light on that for us as would you recommend fitting quafe diffs my car has had a engine overhaul but unsure how good the box is

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    just a quick one with the smic i would change that for a fmic you can have two smic but the car will still heat soak compaired to a fmic thus giving you less power than the car can actually achieve. i dont think you will be needing quafe diffs unless you going on track like prawn has in his A3. clutch may need changing with a stage 2 custom map. smf and g60 clutch will be good combination for fwd a3.

    R-tech is best place for Remap's imo and im sure the box will be fine with 230bhp in there its more the torque figures you gotta watch spikey torque or poor mapping kills these cars so a good mapper ie R-tech or Revo are your friend.







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    As avove^^^^ its the torque that will killl things more than the power, cluch will go if it is still the origonal so a G60 flywheels and VR6 cluch is the best option.

    there are a few guides on here about fitting a front mount intercooler (FMIC) and the ebay £200.00 one seems to work fine for most people and it is the one i would go for.

    diffs are brill, my hate has one in his Leon cupra R and you can tell as it pulls you round the bends, i would consider one for over 240bhp, so really if you go big turbo but i suppose you could cope without one they are big money.

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    well again many thanks i know whats the next few things on the shopping list a fmic and a new clutch setup i appreciate all the help i can get and what better a place to ask than other owners that have done the mods before i aint relly bothered about the price of doing stuff i got a astra that i show with lots spent on it but it was done right and looks right that is what im after with my audi once ive done the tunning im gonna go down the engine bay styling route but rather than doing lots in 1 go im trying to make the engine run as i want it firstly tehn gonna continue down the styling route

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    Quote Originally Posted by chesh1980 View Post
    well again many thanks i know whats the next few things on the shopping list a fmic and a new clutch setup i appreciate all the help i can get and what better a place to ask than other owners that have done the mods before i aint relly bothered about the price of doing stuff i got a astra that i show with lots spent on it but it was done right and looks right that is what im after with my audi once ive done the tunning im gonna go down the engine bay styling route but rather than doing lots in 1 go im trying to make the engine run as i want it firstly tehn gonna continue down the styling route
    No worries pal

    sounds like a good plan to me, that what i want to do, focus on the engine first then make it look good after.

    good look with it and get a build thread up and

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    the LSD is stupidly expensive, but well worth while.

    If I'm honest, I wouldn't bother on a road car, my daily has more power than the track car, and I cope fine in the dry without the diff. Sure, it doesn't pull you in like an LSD does, but how often are you driving like that on the road anyway?

    above ko3S levels I'd say an LSD is much more worthwhile.

    On a track car at just about any power output, it's pretty much essential!
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyh View Post
    As avove^^^^ its the torque that will killl things more than the power, cluch will go if it is still the origonal so a G60 flywheels and VR6 cluch is the best option.
    thats the set up i ment lol cheers danny







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    Quote Originally Posted by Syvo View Post
    thats the set up i ment lol cheers danny
    ye thought so mate lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    the LSD is stupidly expensive, but well worth while.

    If I'm honest, I wouldn't bother on a road car, my daily has more power than the track car, and I cope fine in the dry without the diff. Sure, it doesn't pull you in like an LSD does, but how often are you driving like that on the road anyway?

    above ko3S levels I'd say an LSD is much more worthwhile.

    On a track car at just about any power output, it's pretty much essential!
    right so a standard diff should be okay? how much torque can they take? i think with a stage one revo map mine will be running at about 190nm? when you say they arnt really needed on road cars is that because they wont "break" sorry for all the questions just trying to get my head around it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by a3 1.8t View Post
    right so a standard diff should be okay? how much torque can they take? i think with a stage one revo map mine will be running at about 190nm? when you say they arnt really needed on road cars is that because they wont "break" sorry for all the questions just trying to get my head around it!
    You will not have a problem with your gearbox unless you go down the top mount/hybrid route and run big power (IE 300bhp+). The boxes are pretty strong, you will get more problems with CV joints from constant wheel spin than you will diff problems IMO.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

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    brilliant so i am safe to do 230bhp? i always change my gear box oil ever 10k anyway with the proper vw/audi g/box oil. You have put my mind at ease haha thanks , i had just heard a few horror storys about the diffs going and the damage they caused!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by a3 1.8t View Post
    brilliant so i am safe to do 230bhp? i always change my gear box oil ever 10k anyway with the proper vw/audi g/box oil. You have put my mind at ease haha thanks , i had just heard a few horror storys about the diffs going and the damage they caused!!
    You will be perfectly safe at 230bhp, just watch the CV joints if you spin up out of corners
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

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    im glad to see the are decent sites out there that will give you assistance with the information you require i have spent ages over the last 6 months since getting my a3 on the net researching what to do and what not to do and as a3 1.8t said you get alot of different feedback on different jobs so have to choose wisely what you do and dont do im eventually going to get yellow sfs hoses to cope with the temps better aswell as add some colour to the engine bay and i would replace the intercooler joints with yellow itemsaswell so as to keep in with my detailing the 1 problem i found with a fmic is that 1 pipe runs over the top of the engine on the kits ive seen and im not really keen on the look of that id rather keep it as stealth as possible would it still run as well if i was to run the piping back to join the original pipework like ive seen a post on this site or will the extra distance in the flow cause any lag problems its just i like a tidy engine bay and hate anything that looks out of place hence i went for the turbo revs smic in the first place im gonna go for the fmic for definate now but just like to know options the are for running the pipework

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    Quote Originally Posted by chesh1980 View Post
    im glad to see the are decent sites out there that will give you assistance with the information you require i have spent ages over the last 6 months since getting my a3 on the net researching what to do and what not to do and as a3 1.8t said you get alot of different feedback on different jobs so have to choose wisely what you do and dont do im eventually going to get yellow sfs hoses to cope with the temps better aswell as add some colour to the engine bay and i would replace the intercooler joints with yellow itemsaswell so as to keep in with my detailing the 1 problem i found with a fmic is that 1 pipe runs over the top of the engine on the kits ive seen and im not really keen on the look of that id rather keep it as stealth as possible would it still run as well if i was to run the piping back to join the original pipework like ive seen a post on this site or will the extra distance in the flow cause any lag problems its just i like a tidy engine bay and hate anything that looks out of place hence i went for the turbo revs smic in the first place im gonna go for the fmic for definate now but just like to know options the are for running the pipework
    as far as I understand it you will lose a couple of PSI when fitting a FMIC as the pipe work and the core are larger than normal, you will still lose a couple going over the engine or connecting back up to the old pipe work, I think the advantage of going over the top is that you bypass the pancake pipe.

    It is always advisable when you have fitted an FMIC to go and get your map tweaked so that you can get the extra use of it and regain your lost PSI

  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by chesh1980 View Post
    im glad to see the are decent sites out there that will give you assistance with the information you require i have spent ages over the last 6 months since getting my a3 on the net researching what to do and what not to do and as a3 1.8t said you get alot of different feedback on different jobs so have to choose wisely what you do and dont do im eventually going to get yellow sfs hoses to cope with the temps better aswell as add some colour to the engine bay and i would replace the intercooler joints with yellow itemsaswell so as to keep in with my detailing the 1 problem i found with a fmic is that 1 pipe runs over the top of the engine on the kits ive seen and im not really keen on the look of that id rather keep it as stealth as possible would it still run as well if i was to run the piping back to join the original pipework like ive seen a post on this site or will the extra distance in the flow cause any lag problems its just i like a tidy engine bay and hate anything that looks out of place hence i went for the turbo revs smic in the first place im gonna go for the fmic for definate now but just like to know options the are for running the pipework
    Have a look at "Tufty's" thread on minor S3 modifications, I think you'll find he has what you are looking for

    Scrap that, read this page and the two back -

    My minor modding thread
    Last edited by 16Klappe; 1st September 2011 at 15:23.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

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    im glad to see the are decent sites out there that will give you assistance with the information you require i have spent ages over the last 6 months since getting my a3 on the net researching what to do and what not to do and as a3 1.8t said you get alot of different feedback on different jobs so have to choose wisely what you do and dont do im eventually going to get yellow sfs hoses to cope with the temps better aswell as add some colour to the engine bay and i would replace the intercooler joints with yellow itemsaswell so as to keep in with my detailing the 1 problem i found with a fmic is that 1 pipe runs over the top of the engine on the kits ive seen and im not really keen on the look of that id rather keep it as stealth as possible would it still run as well if i was to run the piping back to join the original pipework like ive seen a post on this site or will the extra distance in the flow cause any lag problems its just i like a tidy engine bay and hate anything that looks out of place hence i went for the turbo revs smic in the first place im gonna go for the fmic for definate now but just like to know options the are for running the pipework

 

 

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