Badger5EM Tuning
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  1. #1
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    Stutter and Stall

    We recently bought an Audi A3 1.6 (2001) and its started to show a few small problems, that I hope someone might be able to shed some light on...

    So first thing to notice is there is a whine coming from the cambelt (it has been changed recently but no reciept).. Its in o the garage tommorrow to be redone, and also the water pump, tensioner etc...

    Based on the fact that the tensioner / belt (not sure which) is whining I had a look online, and people were suggesting that the tensioner COULD make the engine cut out as it would be slightly out of time...

    We can't ALWAYS make it stall on tap, but if you put the clutch down it might stall! Equally, the revs sit at 7.5k - 8.5K and hunt.. So I reackon when it stalls it just hunts a bit too low... Could this all be tensioner related?

    Vagcom shows no faults....

    I hope I have listed everything....

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  3. #2
    Speedy Steve's Avatar
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    wow your revs sit at 8500 rpm?
    Ive been Badger 5'd

    Can we break the magic 300?????? In a word Yes 314 BHP 249 lbft at Badger 5

    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    steves is way quicker than any stock turbo'd s3 i have driven
    I only date skinny Women! They keep my power to weight higher...

  4. #3
    Alex C's Avatar
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    yeah, i think he meant .85K or 850 rpm
    Alex S3 AMK
    Bilstein B8s, H&R Springs, Neuspeed ARBs, Genuine 18" BBS LMs & LCR Brembos

  5. #4
    Sandip's Avatar
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    Check all the hoses around the throttle, first thing i would check would be the breather hose from the rocker cover to air inlet.

    The whine may be a seperate issue....
    3.2 V6 with Custom Code VVT Attack Software


  6. #5
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    LOL, yeah I mean 8.5k I will check the breather hoses! I cleaned the throttle body, made no difference...

  7. #6
    Alex C's Avatar
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    Alex S3 AMK
    Bilstein B8s, H&R Springs, Neuspeed ARBs, Genuine 18" BBS LMs & LCR Brembos

  8. #7
    Syvo's Avatar
    IF IN DOUBT GO FLAT OUT

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cookstein View Post
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    hehe at least you know what he ment







  9. #8
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    ha! don't know anything about 1.6's but on the 1.8T a dirty throttle body can cause very rough idle. may be worth a clean. made mine go from 750rpm to 1100rpm and then ecu sorted itself out. but my point is a dirty TB is not so great.

    when was it last services?
    Genuine Audi Pink A3 1.8T, stage 1 remap. Genuine Audi bodykit and Reiger front bumper, 18's, JOM coillies down 50mmish, dewipered, debadged, 007P, K&N, Janspeed exhaust, Bose and a few other bits and bobs!


    WANTED: rubber mat which sits under ashtray in cubby hole
    drivers side wing mirror glass,
    bonnet in Devon area
    front brake discs for A3 1.8T

  10. #9
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    actually, thinking about it i think its the turbo which makes the tb dirty, so just ignore me.
    Genuine Audi Pink A3 1.8T, stage 1 remap. Genuine Audi bodykit and Reiger front bumper, 18's, JOM coillies down 50mmish, dewipered, debadged, 007P, K&N, Janspeed exhaust, Bose and a few other bits and bobs!


    WANTED: rubber mat which sits under ashtray in cubby hole
    drivers side wing mirror glass,
    bonnet in Devon area
    front brake discs for A3 1.8T

  11. #10
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    The throttle body has been cleaned and didn't make a difference

  12. #11
    Sandip's Avatar
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    Unplug the MAF and go for a little drive, if it's any better your MAF is dead lol
    3.2 V6 with Custom Code VVT Attack Software


  13. #12
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    I'll give that a go later...

    If its not any better, I assume its worth changing the spark plugs? Is there a way to see if a coil has gone? I have Vag-com and on the measuring blocks I went to the misfire recognition on each cylinder part and cylinder 3 / 4 had 1 in sometimes, where=as the other 2 cylinders stayed on 0..

    Does anyone know what that means? It might be correct.. But I would have though a misfire count should ALWAYS be on 0

    http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/010-019.html

  14. #13
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    NA engines are still subject to dodgy MAF's... this can cause these kind of issues as well as vacuum leaks... may not have a turbo but still has a MAF and crappy pipes

    Someone at work had a similar stalling issue on his NA 1.8 20v A4... replaced the MAF and was fixed..

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  15. #14
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    I unplugged the MAF, and it was exactly the same, so I THINK the MAF is gone, is there anything else I can do to check.. Its pricey to change, so don't want to buy one and it not to work

    Cheers
    Toby

  16. #15
    Alex C's Avatar
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    i thought that indicated that the MAF was fine...?
    Alex S3 AMK
    Bilstein B8s, H&R Springs, Neuspeed ARBs, Genuine 18" BBS LMs & LCR Brembos

  17. #16
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cookstein View Post
    i thought that indicated that the MAF was fine...?
    Unplugging the MAF should give a noticable difference to the way the engine runs if the MAF was ok as the ECU runs on its failover maps... on turbo engines this is more noticable than on NA engines of course but in theory if the MAF was fine then the engine should run better but feel less powerful...

    Its not an exact science of course and logging the airflow should give an indication too... problem is MAF sensors do go and if yours hasn't been changed to your knowledge its plausible this is the issue...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  18. #17
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    I did do some loggining on Vag-Com I'll put this on later...
    Last edited by t700bes; 4th July 2011 at 14:24.

  19. #18
    Alex C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT30AudiS3 View Post
    Unplugging the MAF should give a noticable difference to the way the engine runs if the MAF was ok as the ECU runs on its failover maps... on turbo engines this is more noticable than on NA engines of course but in theory if the MAF was fine then the engine should run better but feel less powerful...

    Its not an exact science of course and logging the airflow should give an indication too... problem is MAF sensors do go and if yours hasn't been changed to your knowledge its plausible this is the issue...

    <tuffty/>
    thanks.
    I was thinking that if the MAF was dodgy the car would run dodgy and that if you then unplugged the dodgy MAF it would revert to its 'failover' map and would subsequently run better, i.e. not exactly the same?

    So as he says it feels exactly the same... does that mean its not the MAF or is? or if the MAF is dodgy does the map revert to the 'failover' map aswell?
    Alex S3 AMK
    Bilstein B8s, H&R Springs, Neuspeed ARBs, Genuine 18" BBS LMs & LCR Brembos

  20. #19
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    Below is my log from Vag-com. I think I got the measuring blocks we need, but if you need more please let me know..

    http://tobylockyer.com/download/LOG-01-016-002-015.xls

    The things that caught my attention were:

    Cylinder 4 Misfire

    The Mass air flow is reading something, you can see at row 254 when I'm at full throttle the readings do go up, I'm just not sure what they are meant to be...

    Hopefully so one can help.

  21. #20
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    Can anyone make use of this? Could really do with a hand here

  22. #21
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    Right so here is the list of things that have been changed, and the problem continues:

    Spark plugs
    Leads
    Coilpack
    MAF

    Checked for air leaks, and can't hear any...

    Whats next on the list

  23. #22
    Sandip's Avatar
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    Coilpack? 1.6's don't have coilpacks lol

    How is your coolant temp reading on the cluster? I'm thinking it could be the temp sender
    3.2 V6 with Custom Code VVT Attack Software


  24. #23
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    It does have a coilpack! Its behind the secondary air pump.

    Turns out its the CO2 sensor that is causing these problems, when its unplugged its fine!

    Problem is getting to it. I'm trying to remove the plastic inlet manifold and have all the front off, but can't seem to get it to come off the back, maybe there is a bolt / screw underneath the manifold that I need to get to from underneath!

 

 

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