GT2871R Build

Lee172

Lee172

GT3071
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After a long think (and by coincidence a friend stripping his car:yes:) i have decided to down the GT28 route. Also i have managed to get hold of some other goodies..

DSC_0397.jpg


On the left 18" RS4 Reps with Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres (2 of which are new)
On the right some 19" e92 coupe wheels that i bought a few weeks ago, again for the tyres. (probably selling on..)

DSC_0399.jpg

Liquid Gauge (need to change the surroundings from mk4 golf to a3/s3??)
Forge 007p with spring kit
Genesis 550cc injectors

DSC_0396.jpg

GT2871R
3" Intake Pipe
ATP Manifold (opinions on this please, not sure if ill be keeping it??)
3" Downpipe (for flanges only)
Ross Machine Racing intake manifold (was thinking of anodising/polishing)
R32 Throttle body

Hopefully my car should be going to Bills next week to get started!
 
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Nice one! Is that a rmr built manifold or a DIY one? Whats the runner length on it?

What car is it all goin in?

Ive converted a liquid gauge from mk4 to A3/S3 vent pod. Piece of pee to do!
 
MUSH said:
Nice one! Is that a rmr built manifold or a DIY one? Whats the runner length on it?

What car is it all goin in?

Ive converted a liquid gauge from mk4 to A3/S3 vent pod. Piece of pee to do!
Click to expand...

Its the rmr one in the link below..

20v 1.8t VW Intake Manifold - Ross Machine Racing

It came with braided fuel lines/fpr adapter and one of them pollythonic (???) spacers/adapters. The actually manifold its self is the large port version but the spacer/adapter changes it to small port (if that makes any sense)

Its all going on my s3 along with rods and some other bits and bobs that i will be getting from Bill.

Can you tell me where would i get the liquid gauge facia bit from?
 
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woooah on the next week bit dude..
this is not possible lee - give me a call

can you take closer pictures of that manifold
 
lee172 said:
Its the rmr one in the link below..

20v 1.8t VW Intake Manifold - Ross Machine Racing

It came with braided fuel lines/fpr adapter and one of them pollythonic (???) spacers/adapters. The actually manifold its self is the large port version but the spacer/adapter changes it to small port (if that makes any sense)

Its all going on my s3 along with rods and some other bits and bobs that i will be getting from Bill.

Can you tell me where would i get the liquid gauge facia bit from?
Click to expand...

Reason i ask the runner length mate is ive got an RMR diy manifold and havnt decided how long to have them yet.

You get the S3 liquid vent from racediagnostics, speak to Jim, he'l sort you out! You then just need to hotglue your liquid into it.
 
MUSH said:
Reason i ask the runner length mate is ive got an RMR diy manifold and havnt decided how long to have them yet.

You get the S3 liquid vent from racediagnostics, speak to Jim, he'l sort you out! You then just need to hotglue your liquid into it.
Click to expand...

Ok, ill have a look at the manifold tomorrow and let you know. Is there any other measurements your after?
 
Nah buddy, just thinking of how long is the ideal length so it would be nice to find out how long rmr made them originally
 
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I like what I see lee. is the cam tenssioner sorted yet?
 
No i havent done that yet, im still not 100% that it is that to be honest, it sounds more like the lifters, but at £21 each from tps, 20 of them will hurt my pocket! I am looking at buying a complete head. Do you know if an AEB head is large port ?
 
Would an agu/aeb head bolt straight on or would i have to swap over cams/chain tensioner for all the vvt stuff?
 
Ok, buying an aeb head later today, is there anything i should look out for?
 
check the head where the tensioner pulley will bolt on. It should be flat, some have a raised portion on AEB heads.. which will make the pulley offset wrong. machine it off jobs a goodun
 
lee172 said:
No i havent done that yet, im still not 100% that it is that to be honest, it sounds more like the lifters, but at £21 each from tps, 20 of them will hurt my pocket! I am looking at buying a complete head. Do you know if an AEB head is large port ?
Click to expand...

Not many left on here but they may have more...
AUDI 20v & 30v ENGINES INLET HYDRAULIC LIFTER | eBay UK

Get the exhaust valve guides done on any head you buy...

<tuffty/>
 
GT30AudiS3 said:
Not many left on here but they may have more...
AUDI 20v & 30v ENGINES INLET HYDRAULIC LIFTER | eBay UK

Get the exhaust valve guides done on any head you buy...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Thanks for that alot cheaper than i was quoted..

I have bought an AEB head and new cam chain tensioner today so i felt i was well on my way with all the parts.

However, bead blasted the ATP exhaust manifold to find there is a crack in it. :banghead: So.. new manifold. Has anyone got any advice on what manifold i should go for? The gt28 is t25 flange i believe, i am not looking to spend over £500 so i think stainless is out of the question. I have been told good things about the 'semi-equal length' backdraft manifold??
 
Little update..

Pic of AEB head..

DSC_0407.jpg


2 piece ATP manifold (which will be for sale after the crack has been welded) compared to Backdraft semi equal length manifold which i got today..

DSC_0409.jpg


DSC_0408.jpg
 
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Andrew ill pm you.

Little Update.

I took the AEB head that i bought off ebay to be checked at my local rebore shop, turns out it needs quite a bit of work which is a PITA, all the valves were leaking, one of the camshaft lobes need some cleaning up and there is some welding to be done on the face aswell as needing a skim. So basically they are rebuilding it. I did think it was an a good opportunity to get some better valves/springs but my budget wont allow for it.

I wanted to get a few more things before the car goes off to Bill. But before i buy them i just wanted some clarification on whether or not im buying the right bits..

Heat wrap
DEI Exhaust Thermal Heat Wrap 2" x 15' Black 010121 on eBay (end time 26-Jun-11 09:15:50 BST)

Water/Methanol
AEM WATER METHANOL INJECTION KIT 1 GALLON 3.8L 30-3000 on eBay (end time 29-Jun-11 13:40:44 BST)

Fuel Pump
DA-31 RACING FUEL PUMP SIMILAR SPEC AS BOSCH 044 NEW on eBay (end time 09-Jul-11 11:49:45 BST)
 
I have received the AEB head back from the rebore shop, here are some before and after pics..

DSC_0406.jpg


aebheadface.jpg


aebtopview.jpg


DSC_0416.jpg


The head has practically been rebuilt, there is also a new cam chain tensioner and i have swapped over the camshaft sensor today so the head is now ready to be put on the car. I have decided to have a go at a few things myself while i have a bit of time off work :unsure:.

So, today i started stripping as much as i can. I will be using an R32 throttle body which only has 2 pipes coming from it that are for coolant, there isn't a pipe for the vacuum thats on the standard TB, this vacuum leads to the box below and also goes to the TIP.
DSC_0420.jpg

Is there any way to delete this whole system ??

So after a few hours of taking off most of the stuff surrounding the head, i got to the head bolts (typically being an audi, i need some "specialised" tools) so i went off to try and buy the bit i needed.. TPS didnt sell it but while i was there i bought;

Head gasket and lots of other gaskets (exhaust manifold, intake manifold etc etc.)
Timing belt kit
Head Bolts
service stuff (spark plugs, oil, oil filter)

I have also received some bits off the bay like the fuel pump and heat wrap. Im just waiting for a neighbour to bring me back some tools so i can carry on.
 
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good progress dude, It'll be interesting to see the outcome!
 
Ok, got the head off now but am a little confused, the gt28 has 4 lines where as the ko4 has 5;

turbonumbers.jpg


Number 1 goes to the electric water pump, 2 goes to the sump, 3 goes to the back of the block, 4 goes above the oil filter and 5 i think is the EGT but what do i do when fitting the garrett? block one off??
 
the k04 also has 4 lines, number 5 must be the vacuum line to the actuator
 
Regarding the TB vacuum pipe, just plum it into the inlet manifold, simples, that or remove the charcoal system like welly did.
 
Oh dear... the K04 oil and water lines won't fit a garret... I assume you have the lines? Assuming the turbo is clocked correctly, top one is the oil feed... this needs a reducer as K04 oil feeds are high pressure and GTXXr series are roller bearing so need a trickle... (you have a reducer right?) the oil drain is at the bottom as normal... the 2 side outlets are for water cooling... the one facing the head typically connects to the block while the one facing the bulkhead goes off round to the front (by front I mean cam belt) top connect up there...

Assuming the 'kit' you have has all these and are the right (ish) length then should all be good... use new banjo sealing washers though as they will leak and you don't wanna be taking it all apart again to fix leaks..

As the turbo nor the manifold has a boss for the EGT probe, you will need to get one made and welded into the downpipe... you MUST fit the EGT probe otherwise the ECU will have a hissy and the fuelling will never be right...

<tuffty/>
 
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I have all of the lines and the reducer, they just look different to the standard ones. I think i have sussed it out now thanks tuffty. I can get the EGT welded at work, can i just weld a nut into the downpipe for it? Is there a particular distance from the turbo this has to be?

Dani, is removing the charcoal system a case of leaving it electronically connected and basically moving the pipework going to the TIP and TB under the car so ther fumes can escape?

Just got off the phone to Bill, have ordered rods, shells and a jetex so hopefully that will be here fri/sat and i can carry on..
 
As close to the hotside as yo can get it really... mine is closer than the lambda probe...
20100913_IMAG0253.jpg


...you can see the EGT boss far left just round and forward of the lambda boss...

I can't remember the thread size off hand but no, a nut won't do the job... its a fine thread too... Bill got a boss made up for me as it has to have a bit for it to screw up to... when you look at where it comes out of the K04 you will see what I mean...

Bill should have the drawing still for the boss I had made up but not sure of the cost... I think he may have had some others made up...

<tuffty/>
 
Gots some parts in the post from Bill on friday (thanks Bill). My room is now getting taken over by parts.. I had some spare time on thursday so i took some bits and bobs down to work where i polished the manifold, zink plated all the nuts/bolts and bead blasted the rocker cover.

DSC_0427.jpg


I didnt have much time over the weekend to do anything but i did get some time last night, so i managed to get the pistons out to give them a clean and change the rods which are all back in now.

DSC_0428.jpg


New oil pump and pickup are back on now aswell as the sump so everything bottom end related should be good now.

DSC_0432.jpg


Hopefully ill have a bit of time later to do a few bits..
 
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did you see anything which would have been that noise you were on about?

make 100% sure any bead material is flushed out of the rocker cover..... Any remaining media and it will hone your engine to oblivion :(
 
Well.. The shells that come out of the standard rods all had very slight wear which i was a little concerned about. The gearbox side of the engine (No.4 piston) seemed worse than the middle or other side, i could actually feel with my nail the marks to No.4 shells.They were also a slightly different colour to the others (light brown). There is no marks to the actual crank that i can see. All of the rod shells were worse than the Crank bearing/big ends which also had very very slight wear. Whats your opinion on this? The diesel noise i was getting was from the other side of the engine so im not sure if this is connected or not.
 
The pins went in snug.

The two shells to the right below are from no.4 rod..

DSC_0434.jpg


Also on closer inspection the back of the shells and the rod itself looks black unlike any of the others. If you look carefully at the pic below, the shell furthest to the right also has a lip on the left side of it which i didnt notice before :unsure:

DSC_0436.jpg
 
Yes i did think that. But im now wondering whether it IS or WAS a problem and what could of been the cause of it?
 
Yes crank looked ok, spun freely. Do you think this was the problem?

Im trying to work out why this has happened.. how does the oil circulate in these engines?

Does it go from oil pump up around the head then back through crank? OR does it go from oil pump through the crank before going to the head?
 
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