My S3 Thread

Yeah indeed :) They don't come up often and figure they won't wear much. I told myself to stay away but couldn't resist. Nearly got a FX725 dual plate clutch and flywheel setup too until the guy told me it was 02j 5 speed. Useless!
 
TSR Manifold + Downpipe plus oil and water lines on order.

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Unrelated to cars but I've been in Thailand for the last two weeks with the family doing the Thai wedding.

Our transport

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Some nice sights

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Haha I wouldn't say that. I've been putting away a bit of cash for it for a while. Stacey is the one who must be loaded!

I'd always had the TSR manifold in mind and then when the downpipe appeared on there as a "kit", it was a no brainer for me. Getting that sort of thing fabricated here will be not only costly but even finding someone to do it would be a nightmare. Seb, the local dude who's helping me with the engine build, got a downpipe made for his GT28 kit and the guy could only squeeze in a 2.5" downpipe which didn't fill me with confidence.

Next parts on the list:
- Tial MVS 44mm
- Fuel line (AN6 + AN8)
- Fuel regulator - probably Fuelab or Aeromotive
- Battery relocation parts and smaller battery
- Clutch and flywheel setup - still unsure whether to go for a Tuffty setup or SMF
- Crank pulley dowel kit
- Girdle kit from IE
- Main & head ARP studs
- 90 degree coolant adapters
- Heat shielding & firesleeves
- S4 or RS4 MAF
- plus more no doubt

So still a fair bit to get
 
Awesome pics, what camera/lens out of interest?
ohh the metal stuffs not bad too...;)

Cheers. They're taken with a 550D using a Canon 10-22mm and a Canon 70-200mm F4L. Both are really good but the 70-200mm is awesome and good value. I'm still learning but it's quite enjoyable and free after the initial purchases. The problem is wanting more lenses :)
 
Cheers. They're taken with a 550D using a Canon 10-22mm and a Canon 70-200mm F4L. Both are really good but the 70-200mm is awesome and good value. I'm still learning but it's quite enjoyable and free after the initial purchases. The problem is wanting more lenses :)
yeah ive got a 600D and still learning, them lenses are sooo expensive..
 
yeah ive got a 600D and still learning, them lenses are sooo expensive..

Yeah they can be expensive but it's where the quality comes from really. I got all mine used since they don't really wear as such. I really like the 70-200mm. It'd be awesome for track photography. Hopefully I'll get out to a race at the local track sooner or later...
 

Are you looking for the 90mm maf housing?
I don't think the one in your link is a 90mm. I can't see a 4.2 and 2.0 using the same size maf. I generally don't trust ads that say the item is for various engine models and they seem to be BMW Volvo lexus and merc dealers and they think the 4.2 is FI !

have a look at this info - http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/172611-fyi-maf-sensor-housing.html
 
That's the same guy I buy my OEM parts from. Good prices.

Now that's a fair bit of money to pay for a maf housing, when all you going to use is the housing and replace the sensor with your S3 sensor. Have a look on vortex for the B7 S4 maf, might be a part out or even a single unit for sale.

VWVortex.com - FS: MAF housing + sensor - almost new ***
 
Oh, so you can't use the whole thing? Just the housing? That's a bit of a downer. I'll see if I can find a used one then since my MAF is relatively new.
 
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Hey Sam_ nice to see your thread is progressing slowly.. when is that Agu block of your finishing at seb? atleast your s3 seems in better spirits then mine
 
I'm getting there. I've told him to hold off for now while I get a few more bits together for it - a girdle, arp main and head studs plus a few other bits. They'll be the next purchases I think.
 
I'm getting there. I've told him to hold off for now while I get a few more bits together for it - a girdle, arp main and head studs plus a few other bits. They'll be the next purchases I think.

NICE! i see your going all out hehe... are you going for titanium vales springs and retainer kit for the head ? on the other hand mine has lost its engine due to a bolt left by Audi during a cam belt replacement so im haggling with audi australia cause of that
 
It's using the Ferrea kit from IE (intake, exhaust, springs, retainers etc). The exhaust valves are super alloy and retainers are titanium. Seems to do the trick for many.

I'm keen to just build the engine once and do it right first time. We'll see.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck. That's a right downer. Hopefully Audi cover the cost of the repair.
 
It's using the Ferrea kit from IE (intake, exhaust, springs, retainers etc). The exhaust valves are super alloy and retainers are titanium. Seems to do the trick for many.

I'm keen to just build the engine once and do it right first time. We'll see.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck. That's a right downer. Hopefully Audi cover the cost of the repair.

ah its fine car is at Seb atm doing a BT build. yours will be a proper weapon you aiming to rev it pas the 9.5k rpm range ? hence the girdle kit
 
It's not really an rpm only thing from what I gather, power and torque levels play a part which I'm sure can also be influenced by rpm but it's to do with the block twisting under load. David Blais (owner of IE) reckoned it would be worth doing when we spoke previously and he doesn't seem like the type to push his products really. My initial power level probably doesn't require one but I am just building for later too. Thinking about it now I might just build it without and add it later as a part 2 build I guess.
 
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Fluidampr arrived. Worth fitting it this weekend? I've heard they make a good difference even on a lightly tuned engine.

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Should be fine Sam... remember to get it balanced with the crank though if you go down that route...

<tuffty/>
 
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******.

Was driving to work this morning, pulled up at some lights, heard a hissing noise and thought it was another car. Turned out one of the fittings on the after run pump was about to go. Drove about 10m down the road (giving it mild stick). Got to some lights again and..... steam. Pulled into a petrol station and it'd completely come off! water ****** out everywhere.

Off to get a used after run pump tonight as a stop gap until the new engine goes in when I'll fit a new one.
 
Ah cheers mate. No worries though. Going to grab a used one off Seb for the short term and I'll source a new one later.

Well annoying though, very little warning and it just went! That damn chocolate quality plastic they use on all the coolant fittings. I wonder which connection is next :(

The guy that towed the car was a proper Aussie legend. His son is building a real old Toyota drift car, sounds like he's doing a proper job of it though rather than the classic japanese crap you see driving about Sydney. Putting some good work into it. He said the RTA and Police set up testing bays on the nothern beaches every now and then and do all sorts of tests on random cars. I'd get screwed !
 
Unlucky dude... I had this with the top hose joiners when I changed the hoses to the Forge ones... guess the change form a the spring clips to the JCS was enough to make the plastic give up and it split dumping coolant all over my clean engine bay... which as you can imagine was most upsetting :)

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The housing on the side of the head is known to split too... I would get a new one for the sake of the £12 or so (plus Aus Tax)

<tuffty/>
 
Already done the one on the side of the head. That was a much slower and almost barely visible leak rather than a complete failure like this one did :(

I might well grab a set of those forge hoses (is the kit out yet?) and some new fittings. I'd go to AN but the cost soon racks up at the larger sizes. Plus it's an **** to cut etc.
 
Fixed. However I think the pump I borrowed isn't any good. I couldn't hear it working at any point after a bit of driving and a few stops. I'll be ordering another...
 
I bought one from an A4 thinking it was the same. Turned out the inlet and outlet were opposite to the s3 pump.
So mine sits upside down now :)
 
Already done the one on the side of the head. That was a much slower and almost barely visible leak rather than a complete failure like this one did :(

I might well grab a set of those forge hoses (is the kit out yet?) and some new fittings. I'd go to AN but the cost soon racks up at the larger sizes. Plus it's an **** to cut etc.

Silicone Coolant hoses for 1.8T Audi S3 Leon Cupra R

<tuffty/>
 
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Yeah I've seen all the billet fittings and flanges but the cost gets crazy. Not really worth it at my level. Maybe later?

Bought a new pump from a Dodge SRT4, which seemed identical, new for $50. I thought it was leaking again this morning but hopefully it's just left over water from yesterday. There didn't seem to be any leaks or steam on the way in so fingers crossed.

Rego day today, there goes $1,000... :(
 
It's like the equivalent of road tax back there but way more expensive. Basically every year you have to pay:

- "Pink slip" (~$35) which is like an MOT but way more basic. It consists of something along the lines of drive for a minute, check the brakes work, turn the lights on and see if they work. In my opinion it should include things like headlight alignment since I see sooo many cars with full beam-esque blinding alignment. No emissions, no rust checks etc. It's assumed you keep the car safe yourself.
- CTP "Green slip" (~$770) which is your compulsory third party insurance. This is a good idea as you can't register your car without it so in theory everyone should have insurance.
- Registration fee (~$330) basically a road tax

Then of course there's the yearly fully comp insurance (not required by law as you have CTP). Mine is a whopping $2,000 because I live near the city and I've declared the parts I've done with an agreed value.

Suffice to say, owning a car in Australia is costly. Depending on where you live it can be cheaper though.
 
It's like the equivalent of road tax back there but way more expensive. Basically every year you have to pay:

- "Pink slip" (~$35) which is like an MOT but way more basic. It consists of something along the lines of drive for a minute, check the brakes work, turn the lights on and see if they work. In my opinion it should include things like headlight alignment since I see sooo many cars with full beam-esque blinding alignment. No emissions, no rust checks etc. It's assumed you keep the car safe yourself.
- CTP "Green slip" (~$770) which is your compulsory third party insurance. This is a good idea as you can't register your car without it so in theory everyone should have insurance.
- Registration fee (~$330) basically a road tax

Then of course there's the yearly fully comp insurance (not required by law as you have CTP). Mine is a whopping $2,000 because I live near the city and I've declared the parts I've done with an agreed value.

Suffice to say, owning a car in Australia is costly. Depending on where you live it can be cheaper though.

CTP is Third Person not Party. Its pays for personally injuries only. Doesnt cover property! Every should still have another type of insurance for third party property!

Thats much more expensive than QLD though! My rego (including CTP) is $660 for 12 months, and my comprehensive insurance on agreed value is $800/year. My agreed value is probably a lower value than your though.
 
Ah right well there you go. Still a rip off. I would bet there's no one in the UK paying ~1300 quid at the age of 29 for fully comp insurance. It's insane. If you add in the CTP it's even worse. Hopefully my next renewal would drop a fair bit due to being 30.
 

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