Chris NottEM Tuning

View Poll Results: What colour S3 Avus for the Track?

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  • Porsche Guards Red

    34 53.97%
  • Kawasaki Green

    29 46.03%
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  1. #2601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    Scott, I showed interest when they were 8J and fitted over brembos, they're now worthless to me :P

    I've got 7.5J rims coming out of my ears, I need some 8J or larger to fit my massive slicks / yoko wtcc wets!
    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    I'm now keeping my eyes peeled for either some 8Js or some 7.5J wheels that don't require spacers. If I can find some second hand cheap 5-10mm spacers I might keep these wheels.
    I'lll keep my eyes out.
    Got till AITP for me to bring any thing up to you.

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  3. #2602
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottB5 View Post
    I'lll keep my eyes out.
    Got till AITP for me to bring any thing up to you.
    Haha cheers mate.
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  4. #2603
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    not if I find it first you filthy devonian!
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  5. #2604
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    not if I find it first you filthy devonian!
    You should sell me a set of your track wheels you whore
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  6. #2605
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    not if I find it first you filthy devonian!
    Who?

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    But it's only wafer thin spacer



    Stop worrying
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  8. #2607
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    stop being a vagina, the weight a 5mm alloy spacer will add is no more than my left testicle.
    dare i say this but, dont halfords sell little cheap spacers like that?

    everyones after 17 x 8 wheels now!
    and prawn, you can stop whoring for once and let us have some!

  9. #2608
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    How much one wheel and/or wheel + tyre weigths? 1mm of (aluminium) spacer weights about 40 grams so You can calculate with that..

  10. #2609
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    It not just about the weight of everything. A spacer is changining the position o the wheel and effects the feel of the steering.
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  11. #2610
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    Plus add in a set of longer bolts even for a 5mm slip on spacer..My front wheel fell off (thankfully only doing like 15mph) with running normal length bolts and 5mm slip ons due to only catching about 3 threads on each bolt. Never again!

    Cactus green 8L S3 - B5 TIP + Jetex, Revised 007p, R32 rear ARB, AP Coilovers, Compbrake rear arms, Full Powerflexed dogbone.

  12. #2611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason.s View Post
    Plus add in a set of longer bolts even for a 5mm slip on spacer..My front wheel fell off (thankfully only doing like 15mph) with running normal length bolts and 5mm slip ons due to only catching about 3 threads on each bolt. Never again!
    Oh and you've just reminded me. These wheels are multi drilled so they don't use normal wheel bolts! They are thin head bolts that require a spline tool to do them up. Trying to get these bolts made up to be the right length for spacers too just isn't going to happen. I think I'll get these wheels on eBay the hunt continues.
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  13. #2612
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    Oh and you've just reminded me. These wheels are multi drilled so they don't use normal wheel bolts! They are thin head bolts that require a spline tool to do them up. Trying to get these bolts made up to be the right length for spacers too just isn't going to happen. I think I'll get these wheels on eBay the hunt continues.
    What a ****ter mate.

    I'll keep looking.
    Give them a good clean and some paint on the curbing, try and get more than you paid?

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  14. #2613
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    It not just about the weight of everything. A spacer is changining the position o the wheel and effects the feel of the steering.
    Anyway, what is the weight of the set? Just curious..

  15. #2614
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottB5 View Post
    What a ****ter mate.

    I'll keep looking.
    Give them a good clean and some paint on the curbing, try and get more than you paid?
    Should be able to double my money without any work to them to be honest. I'll get the tyres removed, clean them and bang them on eBay.

    Quote Originally Posted by BuuBBa View Post
    Anyway, what is the weight of the set? Just curious..
    Depends on thickness of spacers but around 5kgs for a set of 4.
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  16. #2615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post

    Depends on thickness of spacers but around 5kgs for a set of 4.
    Sorry, ment the wheel + tyre or just wheel weights..

  17. #2616
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuuBBa View Post
    Sorry, ment the wheel + tyre or just wheel weights..
    The standard 17" Audi S3 Ronal wheels are 12kgs each without a tyre. A tyre can then add an additional 10kgs per tyre depending on how much tread is left on it.

    The wheels I am looking for are OZ Superleggera (7.2kgs), OZ Ultraleggera (7.7kgs), or Team Dynamic Pro Race (8.9kgs). These wheels are all under 10kgs each without a tyre so there will be a significant weight saving which does make a difference to acceleration, braking, and handling.
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  18. #2617
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    Yep, I know.. Stock S3 17" + 245/45 Pirelli summer tyre was 24 kg, my winter wheels (Kosei 7.5x17") + 225/45 winter tyre 21.5kg and current summer setup, 8x18" Ultraleggera + 225/40 Hankook 18.3 kg. Really made difference for handling! Also the tyres can have almost 2kg difference between manufacturers and models in same size.
    Joeyburton17 likes this.

  19. #2618
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    It not just about the weight of everything. A spacer is changining the position o the wheel and effects the feel of the steering.
    Are they the right ET to start with though? I'm on ET20 8.5's on the front and it's pretty damn good. Better than 8" ET35 or whatever the S8 reps are.

    Spacers are only a problem really if:
    a) They're not properly installed (not enough thread (bolts too short) or not torqued correctly) or;
    b) They're ****e cheap ones that don't stayed centered (and so result in vibrations)
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  20. #2619
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    Out of interest does anyone know what ET I can run with 8J wheels? Will ET38 clear 4 pot callipers and the suspension?
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  21. #2620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam_ View Post
    Are they the right ET to start with though? I'm on ET20 8.5's on the front and it's pretty damn good. Better than 8" ET35 or whatever the S8 reps are.

    Spacers are only a problem really if:
    a) They're not properly installed (not enough thread (bolts too short) or not torqued correctly) or;
    b) They're ****e cheap ones that don't stayed centered (and so result in vibrations)
    The wheels I have were advertised incorrectly as 8J ET35. If they were 8J then they would clear my callipers. Because they are 7.5J I am buggered unless I use spacers. Due to the wheels being multi drilled they use thin head wheel bolts which require an internal spline to do them up. This will mean getting special bolts made up for any spacers I get so it's a big waste of time and money really.

    I'm not looking at other options and I will sell these wheels.
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  22. #2621
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    It's not the ET, more the spoke design, when it comes to brake clearance. As I've found out recently. Not sure on the clearance suspension wise but 8.5" + 225 at ET20 is near enough flush with the wing...
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  23. #2622
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    The wheels I have were advertised incorrectly as 8J ET35. If they were 8J then they would clear my callipers. Because they are 7.5J I am buggered unless I use spacers. Due to the wheels being multi drilled they use thin head wheel bolts which require an internal spline to do them up. This will mean getting special bolts made up for any spacers I get so it's a big waste of time and money really.

    I'm not looking at other options and I will sell these wheels.
    Ah good call. The OZs and Team Dynamics rims are pretty nice. I'd go those on mine if I bought again. A set of 10" BBS CH rears just came up for sale here mine you heh
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  24. #2623
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    Out of interest does anyone know what ET I can run with 8J wheels? Will ET38 clear 4 pot callipers and the suspension?
    NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.

    If you're looking at what I think you are, the TD 'off the shelf' wheels, then forget it.

    Call Rimstock direct. tell them you want PR1.2's for trackday / motorsport use, and they will make you a set, to what ever width, offset, pcd, and centre bore you want.

    The off the shelf rims are all in crap sizes, and use spigot rings. Call rimstock direct and get exactly what you want.

    Considering most people run RSTT's with a 15mm rear and a 10mm front spacer, I'd be looking at getting some 17x8's in ET20 or 25 on the S3
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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  25. #2624
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.

    If you're looking at what I think you are, the TD 'off the shelf' wheels, then forget it.

    Call Rimstock direct. tell them you want PR1.2's for trackday / motorsport use, and they will make you a set, to what ever width, offset, pcd, and centre bore you want.

    The off the shelf rims are all in crap sizes, and use spigot rings. Call rimstock direct and get exactly what you want.

    Considering most people run RSTT's with a 15mm rear and a 10mm front spacer, I'd be looking at getting some 17x8's in ET20 or 25 on the S3
    Well that defeats the point of trying to get some "cheap" track wheels. I dont want to be spending £600 for the rims when I only get on track now and again. I might be better off just popping my yokos onto a set of standard S3 wheels again.
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  26. #2625
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    £100 each + the VAT from Rimstock mate so not THAT bad, but I do see where you're coming from.

    if it's second hand wheels you're looking for, forget PR1.2's entirely, off the shelf sizes are 17x7 et38 only in 17's, which would be ****e beyond beliefe on your car.

    havn't you still got your S3 wheels?
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  27. #2626
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    £100 each + the VAT from Rimstock mate so not THAT bad, but I do see where you're coming from.

    if it's second hand wheels you're looking for, forget PR1.2's entirely, off the shelf sizes are 17x7 et38 only in 17's, which would be ****e beyond beliefe on your car.

    havn't you still got your S3 wheels?
    What if I found some 17x8 pro race 1s ET38?

    I sold my S3s a while back. I will keep my eyes open for some lighter wheels that will fit straight onto my car.
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  28. #2627
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    Nothing wrong with a spigot ring really though, if you plan to sell the wheels on later to be used on a car with a larger center bore then it's helpful. They're not really a negative. Really all they do is distribute load if a wheel were to come loose at some stage. Instead of failing sooner, you get a vibration and get a warning and with conical wheel bolts/nuts its less of an issue.

    That said, 57.1mm (S3/A3) is seemingly the largest centre bore size for a 5x100 bolt pattern so you should be fine if you want to sell them on later.
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  29. #2628
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    in a track use sitation, I'd say no spigot ring is always preferable to having one, whether it SHOULD make a difference or not, I just think it's better without.
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  30. #2629
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    Fair enough. I know a couple of guys that compete using them but I guess it's personal preference.
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  31. #2630
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    I think I'm going to forget wheels again for the short term. I think Prawn has the best idea. I can contact Rimstock and they can make me any size and offset combination I want of the Team Dynamic Pro Race wheels for around £100 a wheel. They even do them in green out the box so I wouldn't need to refurb them.



    In the mean time I think I need to get my engine work finished. I'm currently getting prices for Genesis/Bosch 550cc injectors and adapters then I'll be looking for a mapper.
    Last edited by Westy; 3rd July 2012 at 08:20.
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  32. #2631
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    Good lord! They're not shy!

    You might have more luck finding 630cc - there's always loads floating about on VWVortex.
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  33. #2632
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam_ View Post
    Good lord! They're not shy!

    You might have more luck finding 630cc - there's always loads floating about on VWVortex.
    630s will be a little too big for my little K04 plus I think they are harder to map in for idle and low load.
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  34. #2633
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    630s will be a little too big for my little K04 plus I think they are harder to map in for idle and low load.
    630 dekas are fine low load and idle wise (you would defo need a custom map though as your revo can't be tweaked for them) but 550's @3bar would be nicer... the spray pattern on the Bosch 550's seems to be nice and have a bit better atomisation than the 630's... my 630's run sweet as now I have tuned them in right and have done loads of bosch 550cc maps so loads of data available to get them running nice

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  35. #2634
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    Don't want scope for extra later then?

    That's certainly true of the older low impedence Bosch injectors but more modern designed injectors can often be mapped to idle as well, if not better than stock. I have a mate in the UK that runs 1000cc on his evo fq and the idle was better than my stock S3 The problem is it takes longer to map those conditions of course so it's often missed. I had my old N/A engine mapped a few times until light throttle and idle was spot on. Flat out is the easy part
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  36. #2635
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    630 dekas are fine low load and idle wise (you would defo need a custom map though as your revo can't be tweaked for them) but 550's @3bar would be nicer... the spray pattern on the Bosch 550's seems to be nice and have a bit better atomisation than the 630's... my 630's run sweet as now I have tuned them in right and have done loads of bosch 550cc maps so loads of data available to get them running nice

    <tuffty/>
    I was under the impression that i'd require a custom map no matter what injectors I changed to? Surely my Revo Stage 2 map doesn't offer enough flexibility?
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  37. #2636
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam_ View Post
    Don't want scope for extra later then?
    That was the original plan but after seeing what my car is capable of at the moment unmapped, I'll be happy on the K04. Realistically I don't think I'll be able to afford a big turbo any time soon after buying a house and needing to decorate and grow up

    My K04 is currently scaring most hybrids and 1 BT comes to mind too If I get my way and end up stripping the interior to save some weight then this car will be very capable indeed.
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  38. #2637
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    then when you DO bang a hybrid on there it'll be a proper monster! hahaha.

    Get 550's dude, capable of running your ko4 nicely now, and a hybrid later on down the line.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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  39. #2638
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    Ah man, I'm going to have to grow up at some stage too and buy a house (not here!).

    Yeah I must say that's an awesome time for a K04. I'm not sure how the guy here got a 13.7 on an otherwise stock stage 1 k04 + dv! He's super human.

    I'm only going GT2871 because he's gone Precision 6262 (massive), otherwise I'd stick with the K04 too for a while I'm sure before a GT30 or something. It's quick enough for me most of the time!
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  40. #2639
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam_ View Post
    Ah man, I'm going to have to grow up at some stage too and buy a house (not here!).
    Any spare cash I once had to put on the car is now going on paint and wallpaper for the house

    If, like Tuffty said, I can get my stage 2 map to accommodate 550cc injectors then I could have this finished quite soon.
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  41. #2640
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    Isn't Welly running monster injectors scaled to work on his ko4 hybrid map still using uni settings?
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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    But I know nothing so ignore me.

 

 

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