W3STY's Progress Thread

What colour S3 Avus for the Track?

  • Porsche Guards Red

    Votes: 43 57.3%
  • Kawasaki Green

    Votes: 32 42.7%

  • Total voters
    75
Sounds plausible... if the pump is working harder to force the check valve open it will draw more current... fitting the smaller nozzle will increase this load too as its got to force the solution through a smaller hole... all about total flow lol...

<tuffty/>

Yeah Bill and I thought that was the only thing that would have changed by fitting the smaller nozzle. I'll investigate the nozzle tomorrow or Thursday and also try going back to the medium one to see if that is working ok.
 
Was the larger nozzle flooding the engine then? was it a 50 -50 mix? interesting as i have not fitted mine yet, what about an email to aem to see if they have had issues....
Get them rods fitted fred!..:)
 
Was the larger nozzle flooding the engine then? was it a 50 -50 mix? interesting as i have not fitted mine yet, what about an email to aem to see if they have had issues....
Get them rods fitted fred!..:)

The larger nozzle did appear to be possibly flooding the system even though the smallest nozzle is supposed to only be up to 200bhp!

The mix was just short of 50/50 as the stuff Bill gave me was 50/50 but I already had just over a litre of pure water in the tank. The meth was doing it's job before the fault cropped up.

I've done a bit of research and most peope who encountered this problem had dodgy wiring but one had a sticky check valve. It seems strange that we only saw this problem after swapping nozzles so I'll take a look at that first.
 
Good effort guys, i rekon you would get close to 300 BHP just by fitting the mani and poting WG.
How come Bill moved the timing with unisetting and not in the revo tune?
Got funny behaviour going on my car, still get timing pull and i asked my mate to turn timing down, car works allright for a week and then i see more timing pull, currently running 1/9 timing and sill getting CF 7/8.
 
I think that moving timing with unisetting moves all the map, but I haven't tested doing it and then open the file in the HEX editor. For me it's better to change the timing in the timing maps. So you can reduce or give more timing if you depending on the RPM taht timing pull appears.
 
I think that moving timing with unisetting moves all the map, but I haven't tested doing it and then open the file in the HEX editor.

Yes it does, same as fuelling and anything else in unisettings for that matter.

If you add 10% fuel for example, it adds that 10% for the whole map.
 
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I think that moving timing with unisetting moves all the map, but I haven't tested doing it and then open the file in the HEX editor. For me it's better to change the timing in the timing maps. So you can reduce or give more timing if you depending on the RPM taht timing pull appears.

It does... lifting the timing across the map is not a bad thing if done sensibly but its nice way to add a few degrees if you need to... you can of course still take it away...

<tuffty/>
 
How come Bill moved the timing with unisetting and not in the revo tune?

We wanted to sort out the map as it was without the WMI so that's why Bill adjusted the revo timing up to 5 as the Toyo FMIC was cooling the charge air so well.

We then used uni settings to do the timing just for the WMI side of things.
 
Good effort guys, i rekon you would get close to 300 BHP just by fitting the mani and poting WG.
How come Bill moved the timing with unisetting and not in the revo tune?
Got funny behaviour going on my car, still get timing pull and i asked my mate to turn timing down, car works allright for a week and then i see more timing pull, currently running 1/9 timing and sill getting CF 7/8.

Revo timing settings are adjustable between the maps min and max settings... point of WMI is to give you the ability to add more... as you can't add to the map directly you lift the overall timing above the map spec... remember Revo stage 1/2 are generic maps and only Revo offer the ability to adjust settings on generic maps... custom maps such as the ones Bill does for big turbo conversions and hybrids can be adjusted at map level of course but its typically safer to map without WMI then add timing in via unisettings to make use of the WMI setup... easier for the end user to manage...

If the Revo map has a max of 15 deg BTDC on boost then you could add another 2 or 3 deg in unisettings if there is no timing pull...

Its not something that should be tried without logging and ideally a dyno... you can seriously break an engine if you are not careful...

<tuffty/>
 
Damn WMI kit. Think it's syphoning too! Checked the fluid level in the tank when I parked up at work and it had gone down when I went to drive home. Just about to get the bumper off and investigate.
 
How come Bill moved the timing with unisetting and not in the revo tune?

because I had upped the timing with no wmi running from 4 to 5 as it was happier to take it now with its better fmic setup, and adding timing with unisettings allows Neil to adjust it himself, where he cannot adjust his revo himself (his sps does'nt connect to his ecu). It was to allow him some diy adjustments.. base map is for no wmi..
 
Damn WMI kit. Think it's syphoning too! Checked the fluid level in the tank when I parked up at work and it had gone down when I went to drive home. Just about to get the bumper off and investigate.

check with stacey.. thinks his was doing this.. not sure if he found the cause/fix?
 
I had a friend who ran WMI on a pretty pimped skyline, remember he had to fit an anti syphon solenoid to stop it being sucked out the tank... I'm fairly sure it was the only way to get past it for him
 
Just spoke to Stacey and he hasn't had a chance to look at tue issue yet. He's thinking of using a different check valve.

I've just emptied about 1/4 of a litre out my intercooler :(

A more resistive check valve could theoretically do it though
 
I had a friend who ran WMI on a pretty pimped skyline, remember he had to fit an anti syphon solenoid to stop it being sucked out the tank... I'm fairly sure it was the only way to get past it for him

I've just registered to the AEM support forum. I'll see what I can fin out.

The check valve that is part of the nozzle holder is supposed to be adequate.
 
Isnt there a danger of hydro locking with that much water potentially in the system?

I'm wondering if WMI is worth the hassle....
 
Isnt there a danger of hydro locking with that much water potentially in the system?

I'm wondering if WMI is worth the hassle....

Yeah Its not good for the engine. I stayed off boost as much as I could on the way home as I had suspected it was sitting in the boost hoses.

I'm sure once it's working correctly it'll be fine. I'd recommend checking the fluid level in the tank every time you park up though!
 
This is putting me off too now,
I dont want to add things to the car that are more hassle.
 
When they work they work well... not had any issues with any of the kits I have been involved in fitting... could be just a rogue check valve...

<tuffty/>
 
When they work they work well... not had any issues with any of the kits I have been involved in fitting... could be just a rogue check valve...

<tuffty/>

Stacey has the same issue and bought the kit from the same place so there might have been a bad batch of check valves.

I'm going to contact the guy tomorrow and ask him if he'll replace the valve.
 
i have fitted several aem kits and they have'nt syphoned

hope aem can confirm whats going on.

some makes of kit use solenoid for flow control, more for use in vacuum port fitment, but would isolate flow, in addition to check valves
 
Westy do you think they are genuine kits? i know the boxes looked fine and everything but you never know ....and will i be able to check a check valve with air?
They arnt exactly cheap for what they do so you would hope for quality parts....
 
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Grrr this thread takes the biscuit, it's so massive I can't find FMIC details :p

On tapa talk its now on page 80! And he still hasn't made 300 bhp :p
 
xenon sent me this via ebay this morning..
Dear billbadger5,

Greetings,

Thank you for your patience.
Regarding your inquiry,although it is unlikely, it is possible that one part in the kit may be defective.
We are surprised that many kits have a manufacturing defect, and we are ready to arrange a replacement of these parts.
We appologise for the inconvenience.

With regards,
Pavel

no reply from AEM yet
 
xenon sent me this via ebay this morning..


no reply from AEM yet

Thanks Bill.

I've only had 1 suggestion from the AEM forum and that is to leave the nozzle unscrewed over a bucket and see if it syphons over night.

The thin is it didn't syphon the night before I cane to yours or the night after yours, only did it when I parked up at work??? I was parked on a slight hill at work with the front of the car pointing down the slope so it may be the valve :think:
 
After having it happen to me twice I tried staging it for a day of to at a time
I started with the pump elec disconnected, controller vacuum source disconnected, controller arm switch off, and nozzle hanging out of the charge pipework

I then added one more variable at a time starting with the nozzle back in the charge pipe, then pump elec connected, and then the controller armed, I drove round like this for a few days without the level dropping

It all went horribly wrong after I connected the vac source, in which I flushed the water out via test button and filled with WM

I was playing around with a few bits on the car for an hour or so with the ignition on but not the engine running and when I started it, it stalled immediately to find half the tank had drained

I cleared that out of the cooler and pipes and disconnected the motor and turned off the arming switchline for the controller to then find when I went to leave work a couple of hours later it had drained another litre or so

At first I wondered whether it was the pumps self check function (where the pump constantly hums) that could be causing it but after it only started leaking after the nozzle had fluid pass through it and continued on leaking after the motor was isolated it has definately gotta be the check valve??

Sorry if I've rabbited on a bit
 

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