Tuffty, I'm stuck at getting the sodding armrest out at the moment so I can release the rest of the centre console.
Porsche Guards Red
I seem to remember trying to remove it when fitting my stereo gear and gave up as it was an arse... maybe I just blanked it from memory being too traumatic an event or somat as I can't remember for the life of me if I actually did take it out..
That was such a pain to remove for me! The arm rest bit can be detached from the pivot... Then I was able to get the central console out before I undone all those bolts as per you diagram taking the bottom bracket out.
holy poop thats a big job! hope it goes ok dude!
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Remove it and the bracket as one. While leaving it in the console bit. The arm rest thing is on a taper that must be pressed in with a gazzilion lb press, i have never seperated one yet. IIRC there is an allen screw holing the foot and rest bit together too.
I did the same as you but since I was stripping my arm rest down I had to seperate the two.
I used a hyde hammer and big hit, couple of hits later it seperated. Not something I would want to do in the car.
Its made out of ally (not the girl) and i'd be to scared it snapping at the bolts.
Westy, get a small spanner and Jay up there. He has tiny girl hands and might be able to get in there to undo them.
Girl hands and man strength. GRRRRR
Seeing pictures of interiors stripped out like that makes me want to cry! The mind boggles how on earth do you keep all the parts safe in logical order so you can put them back again....
Take a billion close up pictures along the way as a reminder? <if it's not to late?!>
Managed to get the dash apart and the heater unit and matrix out. New matrix in and started to bolt it all up only to find that the hose connector onto the matrix didn't fit the ECP matrix properly and cool and was leaking, so it had to come out again! I am off to Audi today to buy a genuine matrix and give ECP back their piece of crap.
Anyway here's some more pics:
Good job fella, respect for attempting this yourself!
'01 AMK, completely standard except for the Ambient Lighting Pack.
The Haynes manual is so vague and doesn't really cover cars with aircon. I found 2 hidden screws that had to be releaded to get the heater unit out.
The amount of work i've done on this car now I could write an S3 specific guide!
You just love it don't ya mate... Been away for a while... Havent you got your late night side kick with you anymore ? No show without Punch... lol
I can't believe how much you've stripped her down Neil - that's insane!
Glad to see VAG haven't made it any easier from when I had to do my 1997 A4... :D
Good work fella...
Arrived back from Lanzarote today at 12:30am and didn't get to bed till 3am. Up at 6:30 then a 2 hour train journey home from my girlfriends. Started to put the car back together at 10:40 after receiving my 3rd heater matrix (a genuine one this time). BAM, it fitted first time with no problems.
Then came the hard bit! Trying to remember how to reassemble a whole dashboard after a weeks holiday is not easy. Managed to get everything back together and running by 9pm with only 6 bolts that I couldn't find a home for, not bad I thought.
Anyway fired up the car and let it warm up, cold air blowing out the vents! I left the car running for an hour with the header tank open and even after some pretty bad bubbles it was still blowing cold! I can only imagine that there is still a lot of air in the system.
I'm hoping a proper run on the road tomorrow will sort it out.
Here is the difference in the genuine and non genuine heater matrix hose ends:
Not a lot in it, but the little bits of plastic on the sides makes all the difference.
Whats the angle like on the matrix pipes?
Could you have filled it up before you connect the pipes to save any air in the system?
I don't think its the bits on the side that causes issues, they appear to be locating lugs. It looks like it would be the very end of the pipes.
I think its theses guys. Look at the thickness different.
Glad to hear it fitted alright and it was collected fine
Cactus green 8L S3 - B5 TIP + Jetex, Revised 007p, R32 rear ARB, AP Coilovers, Compbrake rear arms, Full Powerflexed dogbone.
Idle doesn't tend to cure the big air locks mate to be fair, it needs to be run at some revs to get the water pump working at optimum.
"Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
"Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
Dont drive it like you stole it. If theres a big enough airlock in the cylinder head you could easily break things doing that.
Low load, but with a decent amount of revs on is much more sensible. You want the pump spinning quickly, but with minimum heat generated.
Try a few laps of your local streets, keep the revs up around 3k (ie 2nd or 3rd gear). Keep the headertank cap ON, or you'll boil the water off and create more problems.
Just scanned my car and I'm getting the following error relating to the HVAC system:
00601 - Potentiometer On Positioning Motor for Central Flap (G112)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
Cant find this code on wiki.ross-tech.com ,any ideas???
Found the following adaption for VCDS so will try in a bit:
1) Connect the VAG-COM, go to the control modules, and auto hvac-module.
2) Advanced functions, basic settings.
3) Group number 1. (Press "up" once)
4) As the numbers change, the position of the flaps change.
4) Wait till all those are 0.0.
Just been out on a 20+ mile trip and a lot of the air seems to be out the system now. I have pressure when I open the header tank which is nice to see but still only have cold air. I think this is down to the flap issue VCDS recorded.
While I was out I also filled up the tank and rest the MPG clock. The type of driving I was doing would normally see 30+ mpg but I wasn't seeing anything over 25mpg! Not sure if this is thermostat related as the temp guage is at 90 and the fans kick in at 100! This may be from the ECU having the battery disconnected for over a week??!