New faults - Please help

[New2Audi]

Hello,

I have two faults currently, which I need help with.

1: The Yellow Oil Sensor light, which appears intermittently. Oil level has been checked, and ok. The sensor off the sump has been taken off to see if it could be faulty sensor. The light came on again, so eliminating this issue.

2: In this past week, my rev counter has gone upto a '4' when in neutral, but, also when driving the car is like being driven itself, due to some fault.

Hesistating taking it to Audi garage, as diagnostics are a con!

Thanks for your help.

 

[Sandip]

Hi bud, what car is it?

Fault 1 could be the sensor or an oil pressure issue due to a blocked pick up or tired oil pump

 

[New2Audi]

A3, 1.6 Sport, 99 V reg, Petrol, Manual.

 

[DenCar]

Try an engine flush and oil change, if its a blocked oil pick might just unblock it, and you could also get the oil pressure checked.

DC

 

[New2Audi]

Oil change n engine flush was done at service last month....

 

[S3KO4]

look at the connector three pins tend to bend just straighten them up and you should be done, rev sounds like throtle issue, carbon deposite might need to be cleaned off followed by reset

 

[New2Audi]

Connector three pins?

 

[S3KO4]

On the sump you have the oil sensor, the connector has three pins inside it, which tend to bend during instalation and removals. straighten them up or replace it if that it not possible.

 

[New2Audi]

The sensor light came on before the actual sensor was taken off to check if it was a faulty sensor, which it wasn't. As, when the sensor was taken off, the sensor light still came on.

 

[Sandip]

Faults from todays scan

00537 Oxygen Sensor Regulation
19-10 Lower Limit-Intermittent
00522 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor(G62)
27-10 Implausible Signal-Intermittent
00668 Supply Voltage Terminal 30
36-00 Open Circuit

00522 - Ross-Tech Wiki

00537 - Ross-Tech Wiki

00668 - Ross-Tech Wiki

I think these faults are the possible cause for your intermittent dodgy idle issue and temp gauge fluctuations. The oil light seems to me as though it could be a blocked pick up.

 

[Alex C]

The sensor light came on before the actual sensor was taken off to check if it was a faulty sensor, which it wasn't. As, when the sensor was taken off, the sensor light still came on.

...how did you check that the sensor wasn't at fault? The oil light came on when you disconnected the oil sensor? wouldn't that be expected? No oil sensor is just as bad as a broken one...

 

[New2Audi]

Yes the oil sensor on the sump was disconnected to eliminate that specific fauly. so when the ignition was turned on again, the light still came on. I would've expected the oil sensor light not to appear if it was the sensor faulty on the sump.

Furthermore, I have had the car connected to VAS PC, the following codes appeared:

0522
0537
0668
01177
00562
01039

Temp sensor was replaced btw.

Thanks.

 

[New2Audi]

the throttle had been adjusted with software from an approved garage.. Oil sensor light is now off after replacing the oil sensor itself.

 

[New2Audi]

Bum! Fault code 00537 still there. Question: Which Lambda does this point to? Before or After Catalytic Convertor?

Thanks.

 

[aragorn]

If you unplug the oil sensor you will get a yellow warning with "SENSOR" at the bottom.

Sensor needs to be connected.

 

[New2Audi]

Its not the oil sensor fault.

 

[scotty_24]

Hello,

I have two faults currently, which I need help with.

1: The Yellow Oil Sensor light, which appears intermittently. Oil level has been checked, and ok. The sensor off the sump has been taken off to see if it could be faulty sensor. The light came on again, so eliminating this issue.

2: In this past week, my rev counter has gone upto a '4' when in neutral, but, also when driving the car is like being driven itself, due to some fault.

Hesistating taking it to Audi garage, as diagnostics are a con!

Thanks for your help.

How is diagnostics a con? The technician needs time to work and diagnose a fault. He isn't a wizard and can't just snap his fingers to fix it!
I agree sometimes dealer prices can be outrageously expensive, but at the end of the day any garage would have to be allowed time to diagnose your fault.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Don't take it to a dealer... its not a con as such but tbh they just follow a bunch of checks and replace everything suspect hence the cost... take it to a specialist that deals with these cars (of this age) all the time..

Had a guy come in that had been to 2 SEAT dealers to diagnose a noise with his LCR and was told different things by both including needing a new turbo...

We stuck a smoke test on it and diagnosed it as a split TIP (OEM rubber one) within 10seconds of firing the kit up...

I had an Audi tech show me his S3 that had was having 'an issue' with and spotted the signs of a split 'V' pipe on the inlet mani from oil spray on the charge pipe... he said all engines are oily aren't they?

<tuffty/>

 

[New2Audi]

Well, dealer in this case, was referred to Audi dealer and the prices they charge for diagnostics! I'm sure you agree, as in my initial post, they are a con!!!

What with plugging the machine to the ECU and getting readings off, print and pay £70+

 

[New2Audi]

Any idea guys on the lambda probe though; which one would the fault code 00537 refer to, before or after catalytic? tnx