Right Rear speaker not working.

[991daniel]

Today i was trying to fit a new head unit, but noticed the Right rear spearker not working, it sounded like it was getting feedback from somwhere, i tried other cables from the head unit from other speakers to see if it worked but just the same feedback.
I then re connected the symphany head unit back and put the sound just on that speaker and it sounds very faint and no base compare to the left
any ideas? would this be the bose amp?

Dan

 

[Nathanh393]

I'm not sure what kind of signal the Bose amp for the rear speakers needs from a head unit. It could be speaker level or line level (like a phono/RCA input would usually be). If you connected a speaker output to the Bose amp when it needs line level. There would be to much signal and it could have blown one channel on the amp.

If you can get to the Bose amp, swap the left and right speaker cables and you'll know if it's the amp or the speaker that's not working.

 

[991daniel]

I'm not sure what kind of signal the Bose amp for the rear speakers needs from a head unit. It could be speaker level or line level (like a phono/RCA input would usually be). If you connected a speaker output to the Bose amp when it needs line level. There would be to much signal and it could have blown one channel on the amp.

If you can get to the Bose amp, swap the left and right speaker cables and you'll know if it's the amp or the speaker that's not working.

I had a go at getting to the amp but will give it another soon, seems like a lot of work to get to it tho witch is a pain...
Would worse case scenario be a new amp then?

 

[Nathanh393]

I had a go at getting to the amp but will give it another soon, seems like a lot of work to get to it tho witch is a pain...
Would worse case scenario be a new amp then?

Guess that's worst case. I don't know where it is. Good luck.

 

[AndyMac]

The amp is in the drivers side cubbyhole in the boot. You need to remove the boot lip trim in order to remove the boot side panel to get to it.
You need to feed the Bose amp with a line out signal (pre-out RCA), not the high level speaker output from an aftermarket HU.
To do this you need a wiring adapter, PC9-404. If you are already using one then chances are the Bose amp is at fault as they are prone to dry solder joints on the main PCB.

 

[NHN]

If you can get to the Bose amp, swap the left and right speaker cables and you'll know if it's the amp or the speaker that's not working.

Yeah I'd agree with this, I'd do the same in the 1st instance.

 

[A3 T]

The amp is in the drivers side cubbyhole in the boot. You need to remove the boot lip trim in order to remove the boot side panel to get to it.
You need to feed the Bose amp with a line out signal (pre-out RCA), not the high level speaker output from an aftermarket HU.
To do this you need a wiring adapter, PC9-404. If you are already using one then chances are the Bose amp is at fault as they are prone to dry solder joints on the main PCB.

A bit off topic but do you think there would be a market for a lead that would give you some rca’s where they are missing on the factory stereo?



This is one i made before i heat shrunk it:

 

[991daniel]

The amp is in the drivers side cubbyhole in the boot. You need to remove the boot lip trim in order to remove the boot side panel to get to it.
You need to feed the Bose amp with a line out signal (pre-out RCA), not the high level speaker output from an aftermarket HU.
To do this you need a wiring adapter, PC9-404. If you are already using one then chances are the Bose amp is at fault as they are prone to dry solder joints on the main PCB.

Having real issuser getting access to the amp, must be doing soming wrong! once i get to this how am i able to test it to see if its the amp witrh the problams? is it as simple as swapping the wires..

I have seen you make the sub clousure and speaker housings, worth the change over? ill deffiniatly be intrested in this in the future, for now just wanner get my HU back in so i can have the ipod back.
the lead i originaly brought was the Autoleads PC9-408, is the correct one or is the one suggest better?

Cheers