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  1. #1
    A3 T's Avatar
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    Exclamation Couple of Sub Questions.

    What's the best way to run the power cable to the boot?

    Usually i just tuck it under the side skirts but on this car it seems impossible....lol

    My other question is,

    How good are the alternators on these cars?

    Are they strong enough to handle a sub.



    Thanks guys
    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

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  3. #2
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    On the A4 i took it in thru the ECU box, then along under the kick plates on the inside of the sills. If you remove the kickplates and lift the carpet at the edge theres probably a wiring channel down there anyway.

    Alternator depends on equipment spec, the one in the A4 is 90A, wether that will be enough depends on your install though.

    I have a sub, plus a discrete amp for the door speakers running off mine, with the smallest battery in the world, and it handles it just fine. But then mines not THAT powerful an install and it spends most of its life at "normal" listening levels rather than "trying to blow my windscreen out" listening levels.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
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  4. #3
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    There is a grommet inside the scuttle on the passenger side by the pollen filter that you can run a cable down then along the sill under the carpet... have a look on my build thread from here...
    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-f...ml#post1017963

    You will need to go over a few pages as there are several posts inbetween my posts on doing the job...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  5. #4
    A3 T's Avatar
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    Thanks guys

    I don't think ill have a problem getting the wire from the engine bay to the car as I've been doing a load of reading about fitting a boost gauge and that the place they say to run the pipe for it.....lol



    Are the plastic side skirts easy to get off because i gave them a good pull and they didn't budge


    Oh..... and my ones a 5 door so ill need to do it four times
    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

  6. #5
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    They are held in with silly metal spring clips... I used a 'trim tool' to lever them out carefully...yanking tends to break the trim...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  7. #6
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    All the info you need is here:
    http://freepdfhosting.com/37841f9301.pdf
    "How to tear apart the ties that bind, perhaps fcuk off might be too kind"
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  8. #7
    A3 T's Avatar
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    Thanks mate

    So its just poke the wire through the hole in the bulk head and and use a screwdriver on the “door seal trim”
    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

  9. #8
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    You have to drill a hole in the rubber grommet, then poke a wire coathanger through, attach the cable to the coathanger with electrical tape, use a bit of fairy liquid on the join then pull it back through.
    With the trim, it is all interlinked, so with the glovebox removed, remove the side footwell trim first, then just prise up the door sill trim with your fingers. No special tools required.
    "How to tear apart the ties that bind, perhaps fcuk off might be too kind"
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  10. #9
    audi-tk's Avatar
    2nd Gear

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    I've got a 15" type r sub powered by 800rms legacy amp and it blows lol. Alternator ain't packed in just yet. A updated battery from halfords would be good to have. Had it on my 1000rms set up. Lasted quite a while
    CAR IS GONNA BE LOOKING SWEEEET :D

  11. #10
    A3 T's Avatar
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    Thanks guys


    Ill let you know how i get on.
    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

  12. #11
    Neutral

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    I ran mine via the bulkead hole, much the same as the coathanger way. I'd suggest threading a much thinner wire first, then use that as a lead to drag the power cables. No extra drilling is needed (as far as I'm aware) and I have 2 power cables.

    Once down, runs along the door carpet etc inside, then up behind the rear quarter panel.

    My lights dim when the base get's hot, but it's never affected the car. I am consdiering a farad for it.
    A3 1.6i 8L, 1998, 18"

  13. #12
    A3 T's Avatar
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    My setup consists of 2 x 12 rockford fosgate subs in a custom built box, a Kicker amp and a power cap.


    The only thing that looks to be a pain in the a*s is having to take all the glove box out just to be able to run the wire down the side skirts


    @ TheButtonz

    I had this setup (minus the cap) in one of my cars a while back and when the bass kicked in the headlights almost went out, i fitted the power cap and the problem went away.


    You'll probably see loads of sites saying they don't work but in my case it was brilliant.
    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

  14. #13
    A3 T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheButtonz View Post
    I ran mine via the bulkead hole, much the same as the coathanger way. I'd suggest threading a much thinner wire first, then use that as a lead to drag the power cables. No extra drilling is needed (as far as I'm aware) and I have 2 power cables.

    Is this where you run yours mate ?

    Audi A3 T sport (8l) AUM 2001..... Stage 1 Remap , Bailey DV30 , HID Headlights , LED Sidelights/Footwells , Catch Can , N249 Bypass , Tinted Windows .....

 

 

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