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    Main block

    Hi all, are all bottom ends the same? mines supposed to be AMK? how can i find out? is there any no's stamped on them??
    Cheers all
    Lee

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  3. #2
    Welly's Avatar
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    I believe there is a part number stamped on the 06A block, somewhere around the oil filter housing.
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    AMK refers to the head not the block

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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    AMK refers to the head not the block
    The 210 and 225 blocks are slightly different than the 150/180 1.8T blocks though, that's worth noting.

    What do you want to know for out of interest?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welly View Post
    The 210 and 225 blocks are slightly different than the 150/180 1.8T blocks though, that's worth noting.

    What do you want to know for out of interest?
    I bought an S3 for the Mrs, got it at a good price because it was in limp mode!!! came up with knocksensor... so as its not a massive job to do ibought it! (yes i did HPI ect), lovely colour,wheels and high spec.
    after doing the sensors (both) cleared faultcodes ect took it down the road and was straight into limp mode! after cleaning cr*p of from on the cylinder head noticed the code APT, seems its from a passat 1.8 20v non turbo! so now need to find out if the bottom is from the same or just head was changed??
    if just head then i need one!!! 2001 Y reg AMK i believe. still got KO4 on it too! also i didnt think it would run but it runs nice just no boost!! but it makes sense about knock sensors as APT heads are small port and higher comprssion, so that would cause detonation in the combustion chambers and trigger the knock sensor code!!!
    If im wrong please tell me..... got to get it running right!
    Not happy and previous owner not responding... it used to belong to S3CHRIS on here from scotland, PM 'ed him but no reply.
    Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiiduA View Post
    I bought an S3 for the Mrs, got it at a good price because it was in limp mode!!! came up with knocksensor... so as its not a massive job to do ibought it! (yes i did HPI ect), lovely colour,wheels and high spec.
    after doing the sensors (both) cleared faultcodes ect took it down the road and was straight into limp mode! after cleaning cr*p of from on the cylinder head noticed the code APT, seems its from a passat 1.8 20v non turbo! so now need to find out if the bottom is from the same or just head was changed??
    if just head then i need one!!! 2001 Y reg AMK i believe. still got KO4 on it too! also i didnt think it would run but it runs nice just no boost!! but it makes sense about knock sensors as APT heads are small port and higher comprssion, so that would cause detonation in the combustion chambers and trigger the knock sensor code!!!
    If im wrong please tell me..... got to get it running right!
    Not happy and previous owner not responding... it used to belong to S3CHRIS on here from scotland, PM 'ed him but no reply.
    Lee
    OK, the APT head is from an N/A engine as you said, however as far as I'm aware, all the heads across the 1.8 20V range, turbos and NAs are the same. The N/As have a slightly different camshaft setup, but I can't see that causing limp mode.

    The bottom end simply won't be from the Passat as they are inline mounted 058 blocks, and won't fit into the transverse chassis. They also have an external water pump.

    I would imagine that the block is the original 06A block - it's just had that head slapped onto it.

    The head won't affect the compression ratio IIRC, it's all in the stroke. AMK heads are small port anyway, so that is irrelevant.

    I would start by checking the knock sensor wiring - quite a common problem. Have you done any logging of block 020 using VCDS to see what correction factors there are? I would certainly start with that.
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    oh em gee

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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    oh em gee
    ?? lol
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  10. #9
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    putting an N/A head on, thought that would feck it up with different combustion chamber, but then your sayin its the same so, no oh em gee lol oops

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    Quote Originally Posted by Welly View Post
    OK, the APT head is from an N/A engine as you said, however as far as I'm aware, all the heads across the 1.8 20V range, turbos and NAs are the same. The N/As have a slightly different camshaft setup, but I can't see that causing limp mode.

    The bottom end simply won't be from the Passat as they are inline mounted 058 blocks, and won't fit into the transverse chassis. They also have an external water pump.

    I would imagine that the block is the original 06A block - it's just had that head slapped onto it.

    The head won't affect the compression ratio IIRC, it's all in the stroke. AMK heads are small port anyway, so that is irrelevant.

    I would start by checking the knock sensor wiring - quite a common problem. Have you done any logging of block 020 using VCDS to see what correction factors there are? I would certainly start with that.
    Thanks welly, Anyone in the Midlands that could sort wiring? and what cams would i need? or would it be better to have uprated cams for more power? i do plan to map it!!!
    You lost me when it came to 020 codes ect with VCDS??? really need it sorting as Mrs going mad.
    all info is great!
    Oh, i found a site on net that stated the BAM,AMK,and the other S3 head had bigger ports!!!!??

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    Oh, and how much are cams??

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiiduA View Post
    Oh, i found a site on net that stated the BAM,AMK,and the other S3 head had bigger ports!!!!??
    Don't believe everything you read....

    Bigger ports than what? The rest of the 1.8T engines?

    If so that whoever posted that is talking out of their choccy starfish.
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  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiiduA View Post
    Oh, and how much are cams??
    MK4 Golf 1.8 T AGU Cams **VW Golf SPARES** on eBay (end time 12-Apr-11 19:59:15 BST)
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    I don't think you'd notice any performance difference with the APT head and they'd be little or no noticeable performance either. However the bam is a vvt and I think the apt is non vvt, so does it have the camtensioner swapped over? AMK's are prone head cracking and I can only imagine this occured and the head was swapped. Have he searched s3chris's old posts to see if or what problems he had in the past?

    Also for limp mode it's likely to be an overboost issue, faulty knocksensors are unlikely to put the car into limpmode just increase fuel consumption and run the engine rich. You need to get the n75, actuator and boost related items checked first. Has it been remapped?

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    Welly, your a legend!!!! will these golf ones be ok? are all turbo engines the same cams?? and would any decent auto electricians be able to sort wiring out??

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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    I don't think you'd notice any performance difference with the APT head and they'd be little or no noticeable performance either. However the bam is a vvt and I think the apt is non vvt, so does it have the camtensioner swapped over? AMK's are prone head cracking and I can only imagine this occured and the head was swapped. Have he searched s3chris's old posts to see if or what problems he had in the past?

    Also for limp mode it's likely to be an overboost issue, faulty knocksensors are unlikely to put the car into limpmode just increase fuel consumption and run the engine rich. You need to get the n75, actuator and boost related items checked first. Has it been remapped?
    Hi, the n75 has been changed along with the maf, plugs,dv valve and the TIP.
    there is a cam tensioner on the right hand side of the head if this is it?
    oh and on the block says 08A then underneath that 01. not 06A?????? oh boy sick now!!!

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    Cars coming up with fault code 16711, anyone any ideas????? im pulling my hair out now!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiiduA View Post
    Cars coming up with fault code 16711, anyone any ideas????? im pulling my hair out now!!!
    16711/P0327 - Ross-Tech Wiki

    As it says, check the wiring for deffo. Wouldn't be the first one with a dodgy KS circuit.
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    If my head has the wrong cams in, would that cause detonation? then triggering the knock sensor code?? anyone in the midlans that could sort this for me??

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiiduA View Post
    If my head has the wrong cams in, would that cause detonation? then triggering the knock sensor code?? anyone in the midlans that could sort this for me??
    IIRC the NA cams aren't different in relation to timing, they are simply a very slightly higher lift and duration - don't quote me on that.

    Some people do them as a performance mod.

    Seriously mate, before you start changing out cams etc, check the obvious.

    The fault code you posted - what was the full fault code? Was it signal too low?
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  23. #22
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    If you can hold of VCDS, then log engine measuring block 020 and gently tap the sensor with something metal.

    You should get a reading on the screen.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welly View Post
    IIRC the NA cams aren't different in relation to timing, they are simply a very slightly higher lift and duration - don't quote me on that.

    Some people do them as a performance mod.

    Seriously mate, before you start changing out cams etc, check the obvious.

    The fault code you posted - what was the full fault code? Was it signal too low?
    If i remember right, it was signal too low! i dont have VAGCOM a guy some miles away does but i dont think hes that clued up really!
    oh and when driving it ect, it seems smooth, even on boost! the little i have lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiiduA View Post
    If i remember right, it was signal too low! i dont have VAGCOM a guy some miles away does but i dont think hes that clued up really!
    oh and when driving it ect, it seems smooth, even on boost! the little i have lol
    OK - deffo check out the wiring then. Just physically look at it, make sure it's not shorting anyway etc etc.

    OK then, thinking outside the box with regards to not muchos boostos.

    New N75 valve fitted - is it the right way round? If not fitted the right way round it will give you permanent actuator pressure.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welly View Post
    OK - deffo check out the wiring then. Just physically look at it, make sure it's not shorting anyway etc etc.

    OK then, thinking outside the box with regards to not muchos boostos.

    New N75 valve fitted - is it the right way round? If not fitted the right way round it will give you permanent actuator pressure.
    Was fitted the way the original was fitted! i think it was the factory one as had the crimped clamps on!

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    Dont suppose you have a pic of one fitted the correct way for reference?? oh new MAF as well, genuine Audi too!

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    OK, fair enough - just to confirm, the long stub goes into the TIP, side stub is the boost source and the top stub is the actuator.
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  29. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiiduA View Post
    Dont suppose you have a pic of one fitted the correct way for reference?? oh new MAF as well, genuine Audi too!
    No, but did find this:

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  30. #29
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    Oh, and had the injector seals cleaned too as looked like one had been leaking!

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    looks like its ok!

  32. #31
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    Wires looked ok when i changed the knock sensors!

  33. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiiduA View Post
    Wires looked ok when i changed the knock sensors!
    In which case the best thing is to strip the loom back and have a look.
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  34. #33
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    Yeah, getting a bit beyond me this now! to think i sold a 330BHP S4 for this!!!!! 408ftlbs of torque too!!

  35. #34
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    NA cams V Blown Cams

    Quote Originally Posted by Welly View Post
    IIRC the NA cams aren't different in relation to timing, they are simply a very slightly higher lift and duration - don't quote me on that.

    Some people do them as a performance mod.

    Seriously mate, before you start changing out cams etc, check the obvious.
    Agree.

    NA cams tend to also have a little more valve over lap, this is the when the valves open compared with the opposite valve closing.

    The basis of this is that in a NA engine the air doesn't move quickly and so by opening the inlet valve early you can get more air into the cylinder

    Now on a turbo car this is no good as this overlay allows pressurised air from the turbo to go into the cylinder and out the exhaust valve as a result turbo gind cams have no valve over lap and I think you'll find that the case with this 20v turbo heads.

    To be fair though the performance difference on our engines and the low pressures involved wouldn't make any difference, on Wellys hybrid running big psi and BHP then yes you'd get problems.

    As far I can tell the APU was a non VVT cylinder head and so it may be that the cams where changed over when the vvt was fitted.

    If you think you're knock sensors are faulty, unplug them, clear the faults and take the car for a short drive and see if it goes into limp mode.( make it short though and don't hammer it as you'll damage the engine, but to test will be fine)

  36. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    Agree.

    NA cams tend to also have a little more valve over lap, this is the when the valves open compared with the opposite valve closing.

    The basis of this is that in a NA engine the air doesn't move quickly and so by opening the inlet valve early you can get more air into the cylinder

    Now on a turbo car this is no good as this overlay allows pressurised air from the turbo to go into the cylinder and out the exhaust valve as a result turbo gind cams have no valve over lap and I think you'll find that the case with this 20v turbo heads.

    To be fair though the performance difference on our engines and the low pressures involved wouldn't make any difference, on Wellys hybrid running big psi and BHP then yes you'd get problems.

    As far I can tell the APU was a non VVT cylinder head and so it may be that the cams where changed over when the vvt was fitted.

    If you think you're knock sensors are faulty, unplug them, clear the faults and take the car for a short drive and see if it goes into limp mode.( make it short though and don't hammer it as you'll damage the engine, but to test will be fine)
    I think knock sensors are fine! throwing up fault code 16711, its an APT head not APU! if any difference?? if i disconnect the sensors it would poss drive better? more boost anyway? but may damage engine?? feels like maybe 3psi boost? not much. if i clear code it come straight back!

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    Today with the G61 knock sensor unplugged still came up with 16711 code, then i unplugged G62 knock sensor and it came up with 16711 and 16716!!!! anyone good with the wiring?? please help!

 

 

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