3" Downpipe Guide - would it be useful for anyone?

Welly

Welly

335D Driver :-)
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Yo yo all,

I am test fitting a 3" downpipe at some point over the next 2 weeks on an OEM car. (How pleased I am - NOT)

I can photograph it all and document it if anyone thinks it would be useful for them?

Let me know...
 
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Yes please mate. If I get a 3" TIP next weekend I will soon want 3 inches on the otherside too ;) Is this the XS power one by any chance?

Depending on what Bills diags show for my exhaust system (as its not right) I might be purchasing a 3" downpipe soon.
 
Defo useful, but i'm gonna get Bill to fit mine as I will probably end up fitting it upside down If i do it. :laugh:
 
definately useful, I've weighed it up numerous times and I'm still unsure which angle and where to attack it from given the lack of space. Can't be easy
 
I would, but thus far I've pretty much got something wrong every time, which then ends up costing to put right lol, plus Bill has ramps which I imagine will make installation a bit easier.
Big +1 for doing it yourself but I'm just not well versed enough at the mo.
 
Be interesting to see how you get the OEM downpipe out because when I was doing mine it was a MASSIVE pain in the *** getting it out lol.

I have 2 very good guides that I used when i was doing mine if anyone wants them or post a link.
 
Ok mate, when i get home il post them up for you.
 
Welly said:
Yo yo all,

I am test fitting a 3" downpipe at some point over the next 2 weeks on an OEM car. (How pleased I am - NOT)

I can photograph it all and document it if anyone thinks it would be useful for them?

Let me know...
Click to expand...

In a word - YES.
 
S3 Nattie said:
Be interesting to see how you get the OEM downpipe out because when I was doing mine it was a MASSIVE pain in the *** getting it out lol.
Click to expand...

It is that. Three options for getting it out IMO.

Option 1. Drop the subframe to allow more room to pass it through. This is quite commonly done. Mark the subframe's location before hand to align back up somewhere close.

Option 2. Drop the front end of the prop off of the transfer box. Not an easy task, how ever is possible. This is how I did mine.

Option 3. Cut the original into 2 pieces whilst fitted and remove.
 
audi upgrades
I done option 1 and 3 but cut it into 3 parts I think and still was an ***, I was doing it on my drive too though. Once the subframe was dropped and the downpipe cut into 3 parts the flange didnt want to come around the prop, come out in the end though. Would be a good idea to take the OSF driveshaft out too for space. Would you really need to mark the subframe position as it only goes back on in one position.

Getting the new one on is simple compared to taking the old one out. Fair play to you welly for doing it again, I never want to take an S3 OEM downpipe off again inless I have a ramp.
 
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Now you've worried me welly, I dropped my subframe the other night to fit a steering rack Bush and didn't mark anything, had no idea there was any alignment, just four simple bolts n goles. Uh oh.




P.s. Boats n hoes
 
superkarl said:
Now you've worried me welly, I dropped my subframe the other night to fit a steering rack Bush and didn't mark anything, had no idea there was any alignment, just four simple bolts n goles. Uh oh.




P.s. Boats n hoes
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry too much mate as i'm assuming you'll be getting a 4 wheel alignment done once you've finished changing all the suspension bushes? Whoever does that for you will get it all straight again ;)
 
superkarl said:
Now you've worried me welly, I dropped my subframe the other night to fit a steering rack Bush and didn't mark anything, had no idea there was any alignment, just four simple bolts n goles. Uh oh.




P.s. Boats n hoes
Click to expand...

I didnt mark anything either as it only goes back on in one position. Only mark the balljoints when ever I change them
 
Westle said:
I wouldn't worry too much mate as i'm assuming you'll be getting a 4 wheel alignment done once you've finished changing all the suspension bushes? Whoever does that for you will get it all straight again ;)
Click to expand...

Exactly - as long as she drive straight for now then all will probably be well. Just get the wheel alignment checked at some point.
 
S3 Nattie said:
Fair play to you welly for doing it again, I never want to take an S3 OEM downpipe off again inless I have a ramp.
Click to expand...

LOL, the funny thing is I don't even need one. I'm only doing this so that everyone can buy one as they will actually fit...

A sucker for punishment.
 
If it is an XS power one then a few peeps on the TT forum have fitted them and apart from the turbo bolt holes needing to be enlarged and the corner of the flange grinding down to allow them to fit they all failed to pass the emissions test at MOT time :(

Josh
 
Super Josh said:
If it is an XS power one then a few peeps on the TT forum have fitted them and apart from the turbo bolt holes needing to be enlarged and the corner of the flange grinding down to allow them to fit they all failed to pass the emissions test at MOT time :(

Josh
Click to expand...

Welly has been working with them to sort out the above issues so fingers crossed.
 
superkarl said:
So how long till the group buy on the xs power items welly? The threads closing end of March isn't it?
Click to expand...

Yeah, that was only an interest gauger though. Once I have seen the revised item, and it's been analysed then we can kick that off.

Shouldn't be too long though, lets put it that way.
 
Welly said:
No, there is movement in the frame when unbolted - not much, but it is likely to move when dropped.
Click to expand...

I didnt mean when Its unbolted, it does have quite a bit of movement once unbolted and dropped. I mean you cannot slide the subframe on the bolts or anything like you can with the balljoint in the wishbone for adjustment.
 
S3 Nattie said:
I didnt mean when Its unbolted, it does have quite a bit of movement once unbolted and dropped. I mean you cannot slide the subframe on the bolts or anything like you can with the balljoint in the wishbone for adjustment.
Click to expand...

Ahhh right, with you now - sorry dude. No, it doesn't move like that, although it will come forwards and backwards small amounts even when the bolts are slackened, and this is enough to throw the geometry out annoyingly.
 
Super Josh said:
If it is an XS power one then a few peeps on the TT forum have fitted them and apart from the turbo bolt holes needing to be enlarged and the corner of the flange grinding down to allow them to fit they all failed to pass the emissions test at MOT time :(

Josh
Click to expand...

Ye it is the same, they dont pass from what I have read and experienced myself, want to see if anyone passes on here once they get theres from the group buy. Mine rusted to ***** too after 4 month or so, worse than my 8 year old OEM cat back.

Welly, next time you talk to XS could you ask them why the lambda hole on the cats have been blanked up so the 2nd lambda gets no exhaust gases on it so you get a fault code on a sports cat.
 
S3 Nattie said:
Ye it is the same, they dont pass from what I have read and experienced myself, want to see if anyone passes on here once they get theres from the group buy. Mine rusted to ***** too after 4 month or so, worse than my 8 year old OEM cat back.

Welly, next time you talk to XS could you ask them why the lambda hole on the cats have been blanked up so the 2nd lambda gets no exhaust gases on it so you get a fault code on a sports cat.
Click to expand...

Yeah, can do, and have in the past. :salute:
 
Cheer dude. I was thinking they know there cats wont pass and just blanked the hole up, dont know why they blank them up for. Shouldnt get a fault code on a sports cat really.
 
S3 Nattie said:
Cheer dude. I was thinking they know there cats wont pass and just blanked the hole up, dont know why they blank them up for. Shouldnt get a fault code on a sports cat really.
Click to expand...

To be fair, I believe the logic was this:

Pre facelift S3 don't have a post cat lambda at all. So they set the downpipe up that way. It has the thread for the post cat lambda if you have one, however if you don't then the thing will need to be drilled.

I agree that it's not ideal - The simplest option being to prove a screw in lambda bung.
 
Does make sense if it was designed for a pre facelift. Just annoying having a sports cat and getting a fault code.

The lambda hole on mine is about 2 inch deep and blanked off at the end so even if the hole was drilled out the lambda probe will still not get no gases flowing over it as its about an inch long maybe the probe so brings up the fault code.
 
S3 Nattie said:
Does make sense if it was designed for a pre facelift. Just annoying having a sports cat and getting a fault code.

The lambda hole on mine is about 2 inch deep and blanked off at the end so even if the hole was drilled out the lambda probe will still not get no gases flowing over it as its about an inch long maybe the probe so brings up the fault code.
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong dude, I totally agree with you, and it has come up in conversation before. I've passed on the info about the cats to the relevant parties.
 
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