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Thread: superkarls overhaul

  1. #681
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post

    Scullies, il have a word with jason first on monday, think it may be easier and a faster turn around. Im unsure what postage might be you see, unless you know? By the way thats very kind of you.
    No problem dude, I know time is of importance atm.
    Postage would be about GBP 5, LOL


    FYI, I pulled my fsi oil gear off like so.

    2012-08-23 025.JPG

    Heated the gear up , then used a hydraulic puller to get it off. I also used heat and a hydraulic press to get the 1.8 gear onto the fsi crank. I was worried about using a hammer and pipe to get it on as I thought the gear might get a bit bent if hammered while it was hot, but seems others have done it this way with no issues.

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  3. #682
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    Hmm if we`re talking about the sprocket in that picture above then its not seperate. Comes on the crank. I thought you meant the sprocket on the pump itseft. Can do you the bolts cheap enough though and anything else you might need.

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  4. #683
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    yeh the one on the crank.
    Il drop scullies a pm then.

  5. #684
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    Ill see if I can find the number but you definately got me a sprocket jase when got my 2.0 tfsi crank

    I know james lcr thread had the numver in it

    Will search and get back
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  6. #685
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    Stolen from an old PM

    This was my main order for the bottom end stuff and looking at it am pretty sure was the timing gear 06A 105 209 as can't be anything else on that list and know i definately ordered on the order with the crank

    06A 105 021 AR - Crankshaft

    06A 105 209 - Timing Gear

    N 902 428 04 - Crank Damper Bolt

    N 910 300 01 - Main Bolt Set

    06A 121 119 - Water Pump O-ring

    06A 121 012 - Water Pump (got one to exchange if you would like me to post it to you?)

    06A 115 251 - Oil Pick Up Pipe

    N 028 222 2 - Oil Pump O-ring

    06B 103 383 AF - Headgasket

    026 105 635 A - Thrust Washers
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  7. #686
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    thanks stacey.
    also what do you recommend to take the crank bolt off? i giant breaker bar?
    i tried jamming the crank with something against the webbing but it wasnt the best.

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    You must have give me the number then lol. It comes up on ETKA but isnt on the pictures. If you`ve had one before from me it has to be correct.

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  9. #688
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    thanks stacey.
    also what do you recommend to take the crank bolt off? i giant breaker bar?
    i tried jamming the crank with something against the webbing but it wasnt the best.

    get some heat on it as there might be loctite on the bolt, then a breaker bar and a pipe over the breaker bar for extra extra leverage

    I used some soft wood across the webbing at #2 and #3 journals to lock the crank, then had two guys brace/hold/stand on the block while a beat the crap out of the breaker bar - it was toight like a ducks arse

  10. #689
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    Never tried locking the crank in the block but like scullies has said wood would work best or if not i have made a crank holdy tool thing which can post up to you if can't get it off by wedging it

    I use a 19mm ring spanner with pipe and a spline tool with breaker bar and pipe, last time i had to sit on one whilst pulling down on the other lol

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  11. #690
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    Quote Originally Posted by StaceyS3 View Post

    I use a 19mm ring spanner with pipe and a spline tool with breaker bar and pipe, last time i had to sit on one whilst pulling down on the other lol
    you should of taken a picture of you in action, because that's a mcgyver contraption to be proud of

  12. #691
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scullies View Post
    you should of taken a picture of you in action, because that's a mcgyver contraption to be proud of
    The problems of working alone....no one else to take the pics lol
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  13. #692
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    Oil pump drive sprocket has arrived, thought id thank scullies in here because it was great of him to help me out!

    So crank will go to machine shop on friday hopefully to have old one exchanged for one with teeth, then its plane sailing.

    Deleted the aircon the other day, and today removed the air con pipes out of the bay.
    I considered doing a guide-ish for it, but it basically requires Washer bottle, pas reservoir, header tank removing, and a pipe from brake mc briefly undoing.

    Prob saved 10kg in total, not alot, but it contributes to some other ideas i have
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  14. #693
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    I have the vag locking tool for the crank of you want to borrow it karlos.
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  15. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    Oil pump drive sprocket has arrived, thought id thank scullies in here because it was great of him to help me out!

    So crank will go to machine shop on friday hopefully to have old one exchanged for one with teeth, then its plane sailing.

    Deleted the aircon the other day, and today removed the air con pipes out of the bay.
    I considered doing a guide-ish for it, but it basically requires Washer bottle, pas reservoir, header tank removing, and a pipe from brake mc briefly undoing.

    Prob saved 10kg in total, not alot, but it contributes to some other ideas i have
    you welcome bud, surprised it got there so quick. I checked the tracking number today and it said it was in the US - wtf?

    you going to remove the condenser as well? Will probably allow more air to flow over the radiator.

  16. #695
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    Cheers for that ben, will i need it you reckon? My dad is taking the crank to work with him so he can drop it off at the machine shop so think he might have a go at the crank bolt with an impact wrench or whatever he has to hand.


    condensor wouldve been out today if id had any torx bits on me, but yeh, that will be gone eventually.

    I hOpe to have the bottoM end built and in the car with gearbox by next weekend. Then my efforts will be concentrated on mocking turbo lines/tip/charge pipe/exhaust.

  17. #696
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    Nice one mate

    I came so close to removing the aircon system but couldnt bring myself to do it even though its not had any gas in it for over 2 years

    The main plus side I can see to removing it is gaining more space....did it free up much?
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  18. #697
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    Quote Originally Posted by StaceyS3 View Post
    Nice one mate

    I came so close to removing the aircon system but couldnt bring myself to do it even though its not had any gas in it for over 2 years

    The main plus side I can see to removing it is gaining more space....did it free up much?
    i rarely used mine, im a windows down kinda guy, + saves getting it regassed.

    As for space, in the grand scheme of things its little difference, removal of pipes cleans things up nice. And i suppose i could now get a power steerimg cooler in place of the rad if i wanted to
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  19. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    i rarely used mine, im a windows down kinda guy, + saves getting it regassed.

    As for space, in the grand scheme of things its little difference, removal of pipes cleans things up nice. And i suppose i could now get a power steerimg cooler in place of the rad if i wanted to
    I like your style.
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  20. #699
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    Save 10 kg..im keeping mine, just have a poo...
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  21. #700
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    It was warm today Karl, glad I had my aircon in the Ess.


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  22. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by jojo View Post
    It was warm today Karl, glad I had my aircon in the Ess.


    mind you its going to be cool one here today
    temp.jpg

  23. #702
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    Jealous of the low humidity. That's the killer for me here in Aus in Summer, it's sweaty as. Air con needed!
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  24. #703
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    so this is how you receive crank main bolts from the monstrosity that is Jason.S:


    were talking 4 different layers and i needed a dam steak knife to get into it!

    so my new oil pump drive sprocket was fitted by the machine shop on friday, so on saturday i was able to get the crank in and bolted/torqued up:

    i used a thread on vortex for my torque settings, it literally has everything you could ever need.
    So the mains were done to 65nm + 90 degrees, with bearings smeared with assembly lube.

    then came putting the rods/pistons in, at last:

    These were carefully installed with the new bearings, all greased up with Torco assembly lube, ARP 2000 rod bolts smothered in ARP torque lube for accuracy, and torqued 3 X at 55lbsft in 3 increments, so 20, 40 55.

    with that all done i began bolting stuff onto the block, trying to remember where everything goes and what bolts are for what (ive not been very organised in that respect)



    i then had a panic moment, i noticed the crank trigger wheel in the new engine (agu) looked like this:

    And my old one (amk) looked like this:


    poo'd myself at this point because i thought oh god what if theyre different. Anyway a text to Ben with the pics and he assured me its fine thank god.

    And thats where i'm at right now. I currently need the front and rear crank seals as the original ones are looking old and nasty, so with those installed il have everything put on this block including gearbox and perhaps have it installed in the car next weekend, maybe....

  25. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by BENJAMIN View Post
    I have the vag locking tool for the crank of you want to borrow it karlos.
    what does the vag tool look like?
    could you post pictures?
    thanks
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  26. #705
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    these are what I have seen

    Crankshaft timing gear locking tools

    x1.jpg

    x2.jpg
    Flywheel locking tool

    x3.jpg


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  27. #706
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    i used a thread on vortex for my torque settings, it literally has everything you could ever need.
    sounds useful....
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  28. #707
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex C View Post
    sounds useful....
    VWVortex.com - FAQ: 1.8t Torque Spec List
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    Only a steak knife? Hmm have to rethink my wrapping methods.

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  30. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason.s View Post
    Only a steak knife? Hmm have to rethink my wrapping methods.
    i need parts *****! so you can have another go at wrapping

  31. #710
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    what do you need?

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  32. #711
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    what does the vag tool look like?
    could you post pictures?
    thanks
    here you go


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  33. #712
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    Little update, few more things done this weekend.

    New front and rear crank seals as the old ones were fooked, not many pics but relatively easy to fit once you work out how to use the plastic guides they are supplied with

    only took a pic of the one, but this was bought from GSF. Other one from ECP.

    I basically have the bottom end complete now, so my efforts are now on the top end of the engine, so wanted to attack the 3 heads I have but unfortunately it requires a VERY small spring compressor for the inlet valves, mine is just that bit too big:

    So my dad is looking for a smaller one, failing that il grind this one down which is easy enough.

    I turned my attention to the manifold and turbo hotside. I knew i should port the wastegate opening a little to combat any potential boost creep, so did this:


    Couldn't get right into the area under the penny valve, but i enlarged it as much as i saw fit with enough for the valve to seat against.

    Then i had a gander at the T25 mani/gasket/hotside:



    Basically the mani is massive, and leaves quite a lip to the gasket/hotside. So best thing i can do is port the turbo to the gasket really, so that's what i did.


    much better.
    although i still don't know whether to take the gasket and the turbo to the same as the mani?? Its likely to be a hotspot with risk of blowing gaskets.

    I also wanted to take the flywheel off my old engine, unfortunately i didn't have the socket for them, so im waiting on the tool:


    Also took a shot of my old turbo with all its lines and bracket for the ad IT NEEDS TO GO


    Plan of attack for the next week, tackle the top end, get the head sorted with guides and stem seals, clean, port n polish, and get it secured to the block.

    over and out

  34. #713
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    Slow but stead progress Karlos. The head work will be a bit more involved but more exciting too.

    You're getting good at porting now
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  35. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    Slow but stead progress Karlos. The head work will be a bit more involved but more exciting too.

    You're getting good at porting now
    the housing was surprisingly soft. i prefer it to alloy aswell.
    Head will only get a tickle on the inlets to gasket match it like the mani.
    Exhaust side is full bore or nothing, not decided yet.

    I need to tap the mani for m1o studs aswell, but access to the nuts is going to be a pita!

  36. #715
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    Great work karl! Engine looks really good, how long did all that take you?
    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    its either mapped or broken...

  37. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gops View Post
    Great work karl! Engine looks really good, how long did all that take you?
    with everything you need it doesnt take long.
    But i have to travel from mine to my rents to do little bits at a time, not knowing what tools i might need, so has taken me a good few weekends.

  38. #717
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    It is so easy to to just do it,taking pics and writing up for here is commendable Karl.
    Thanks as this encourages members to do the same
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  39. #718
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    Not much to update, but i began stripping the AEB head, and taking things i needed off my old AMK.

    I noticed the cam belt pulleys on the exhaust cam were different, at first i thought nothing of it, but side by side you can see the AMK in the foreground has the pulley offset away from the head whereas the AEB doesnt, so they will be swapped over.
    Just thought id post that difference in case anybody thinks of bolting an AEB straight on with its original parts as there may be alignment issues with the cambelt.

    I didnt have a magnetic screw driver or similar to get the valve keepers out, so after going to halfords to look for set of valve stem pliers i gave up and then went to inters which was well worth the trip.

    Head work will commence this weekend and they will be stripped, cleaned, maybe some porting, and exhaust valve guides checked and possibly replaced. But they will get new stem seals as a minimum. All the while il put my AMK on the engine and begin mocking things up line/tip/charge pipe wise.
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  40. #719
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    Tiny headed flat blade with a small dollop of grease on works very well in place of magnetic screwdriver
    just sayin
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  41. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by basil brush View Post
    Tiny headed flat blade with a small dollop of grease on works very well in place of magnetic screwdriver
    just sayin
    the sun was overheating my brain

 

 

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