lambda sensor fault

tony696

tony696

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I'm after some help ive had a lambda sensor fault for a few weeks now so i went out and go to brand new ones but i keep getting this fault

16514 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit
P0130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent


can any one help please

Thanks
Tony :thumbsup:
 
dany2k said:
u cleared it mate? what car u got? did u change the pre-cat or post-cat lambda?
Click to expand...

yh mate i cleared it then it comes about after about 10 mins of driving, audi s3 1.8 20v apy, i changed both mate thought it would be better to change the both at the same time

Thanks
 
ive traced the wires back today back to ecu and there was no wire split, but ive found out my thermostat is faulty which i think that this is bring up my lambda fault due to thinking that the cars is still cold and adding more fault, because the way a lambda works is from the heaters in it telling the ecu is cold so it warms the lambda sensor up for it to get a reader ( think that's right ) lol

i will try a new thermostat and cts in the next few days and let you know how i get on

thanks
 
good man. you can probably save yourself £15 by having a look at the cts before you remove it: if it's green, unlikely to be the problem. i replaced mine unnecessarily recently, and then ended up changing the thermostat to solve my woes!
 
it is the green one but thought i would just change the both of them to be on the safe side :D
 
My Lambada Sensor started throwing up error codes shortly after having a new thermostat fitted. Iv bought a new Lambarda (Bosch) Pre-Cat
and getting it fitted tomorrow.

DC
 
DenCar said:
My Lambada Sensor started throwing up error codes shortly after having a new thermostat fitted. Iv bought a new Lambarda (Bosch) Pre-Cat
and getting it fitted tomorrow.

DC
Click to expand...
let me know how you get on mate

tony
 
I had a lambda sensor error come up today, i changed my sensor after the cat just before Xmas and the car was fine, but I did also just change my stat last week and the error came up today, just cleared and will see how it goes.

How much was the pre cat lambda sensor??
 
Had the same problem when i changed my lambda B1 S1, had the same fault code thrown up, thought it was a wiring problem too, also at the same time it was due for the MOT test, cleared the codes and warmed the car hoping it would pass the emmisions but failed badly, i then thought i may have been sold a dud lambda by GSF they gave me a new one which kept giving the same fault.

Well the solution i finally stumbled on while checking the MAF was To re-set the ECU by disconnecting the Battery for approx. 15 minutes, i believe this allows the ecu to re-adjust to the new lambda sensor and should stop your fault codes, Good Luck :)
 
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tony696 said:
let me know how you get on mate

tony
Click to expand...

Had new Lambada fitted today, error codes cleared, took car for a bit of a run and all is still clear, no engine light or codes except for the long-standing one of "Pressure Drop" etc etc, ill get this sorted next. The old Lambada looks like the original (2002) and the probe was black with heavy carbon deposit.

DC
 
If disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes, will I need to put the radio code back ini and will any other settings be lost at all??
 
the radio code will not need to be re entered as the radio is set to work with the car and a loss of power does not make it lose your cars configuration, but u will find the code in the owners manual fot the stereo.
 
Thanks guys about the throttle body alignment, hows this done, thru vagcom or is it the on off trick?
 
Also, will this sort my economy out as well, as ever since I have had the boost leak I have had really bad economy, but since getting that sorted, it doesnt seem to have changed much, i was loosing as much as 100 miles a week!!
 
Last edited:
Did you guys notice running problems with your lambda faults? Surging, hesitation or anything? Cheers
 
audi upgrades
Most of the wring faults are due the the sensor not been protected from the exhaust manifold

The sensors cam with a heat shield protector sleeve, I know mine doesn't one and thats why mine failed

replace the sensor and fit a heat shield around it and the wiring
 
W3STY said:
I dont have an error in VCDS but I am down on power and my diagnostics are pointing toward a faulty sensor or a faulty cat!
Click to expand...

Can a post CAT lamda fault affect how the car runs? I thought a pre CAT lamda could but a post CAT couldnt? Did you get this fixed W3STY? Notice any improvements?
 
Cookstein said:
Can a post CAT lamda fault affect how the car runs? I thought a pre CAT lamda could but a post CAT couldnt? Did you get this fixed W3STY? Notice any improvements?
Click to expand...

Yes mate I got it fixed. It was the map (Chipped UK) that was causing the strange readings in VCDS. As soon as my ECU was flashed with Revo software it was fine.

You are correct the post cat sensor doesn't adjust fueling and my power loss was down to my turbo having 3 huge cracks all the way through it :(
 
thanks, just had my EGT fixed and i also have a fault with the post CAT lamda that needs fixing (fault says the internal resistance is too high). any ideas how much the sensor cost and if it was an Audi one?
 
Cookstein said:
thanks, just had my EGT fixed and i also have a fault with the post CAT lamda that needs fixing (fault says the internal resistance is too high). any ideas how much the sensor cost and if it was an Audi one?
Click to expand...

My sensor was fine and it wasn't throwing an error code. I checked the voltage of the sensor which is supposed to remain stable is the CAT is healthy but it was all over the place. As soon as I went Revo it was fine.

Getting the lambda sensor out is a pain. I bought a proper Lambda sensor removal tool and even with 2 people twisting it we couldn't budge the thing. I've seen a few where they have siezed and people have had to have new ones fitted.
 
I have had to resort to removing the DP to get the lambda in the vice to undo.
split socket type tool spreads apart on v.tight ones.. no use at all
i modified a ring spanner to cut a slot in it, which works 90% of the time, apart from seized ones where vice is required.
22mm they are if you can get an AF spanner on it, but they round of easily
heating the boss also can help undo them
 
Evening gents.

Just been to look at getting a new toy for the folks, a 2000 plate apx tt, supposedly have a blueflame exhaust, wak box with k&n air filter and a remap (remap is unknown and they reckon its running 280bhp which is b*llocks as ive driven it lol).
Anyway the only fault code coming up is the lambda one, can this cause running issues, power loss etc?
I ask as the tt didnt feel any faster than mine, it sat better (mine's still got knackered suspension so thats not hard todo lol) but it didnt pull better, it seemed to spluter and struggle.
 
Would the code have indciatced which one it was?
 
Dani_B19 said:
Evening gents.

Just been to look at getting a new toy for the folks, a 2000 plate apx tt, supposedly have a blueflame exhaust, wak box with k&n air filter and a remap (remap is unknown and they reckon its running 280bhp which is b*llocks as ive driven it lol).
Anyway the only fault code coming up is the lambda one, can this cause running issues, power loss etc?
I ask as the tt didnt feel any faster than mine, it sat better (mine's still got knackered suspension so thats not hard todo lol) but it didnt pull better, it seemed to spluter and struggle.
Click to expand...

280bhp my ****!

Does the APX have a post cat lambda?

Check the fault code on ross-techs wiki and it should tell you mate. If it does have a post cat sensor then that sensor is there to report the condition of the cats, if they are knackered then the sensor will tell you and a nackered cat will give running issues.
 
Thats what i said, will do mate, looks like the folks are going off it, seems like they are looking at a few others now, means i get a new toy to play with and also rob bits off :) haha.
 
Ok.

Looks like my pre-cat lambda sensor is shot (only got the 1 APY), thanks again to paul for scanning the car with full vcds, looks like my free version has been missing this.
How easy are they to change? Whats involved on the wiring side of matters, is it a plug and play affair or do i have to start cutting and splicing wires?
 
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