Replacing clutch switch

SiGainey

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Got the usual error in VAGCOM so have bought a new switch to replace the old one. Noticed that the new one was a bit bigger than the old one but thought it would have been a revised part, so no issue. Bit of a fiddle to fit the new one but noticed that it could only go in one way, which was a different orientation to the way the old one came out (the wiring connector is at the top)... Now, when I drive it, I've still got the same revs rising issue :(

Are they orientated and i've fitted it the wrong way up? If it's not the switch, are there any other common faults with the wiring?
 
This is where I've got to and got stumped, Changed my clutch switch twice and I still get 100rpm on gear changes. Unless I have had 2 brand new switches that are broken I have no idea what else it could be. But I'm not too inclined to fiddle about with the switch incase i mess it up and it starts jumping by 900 revs again. Just turn it around later and see if anything changes, having opened one up there is a small chance it might make a difference.
 
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they only fit in 1 way you cant get that wrong
did u rescan after fitting the new 1 ?
 
What actually is "the usual code" in VAGCOM? Mine over-revs MASSIVELY during a gear change at high boost (like 500-800rpm) and I have no error code to reflect this in VAGCOM. Before people start telling me that the clutch is slipping, I'd just like to say that it feels perfectly tight during normal driving, and only over-revs when I'm really giving it the beans.

Also - how much did you pay for the clutch switch? Don't suppose you have a part number handy?

Cheers!
 
It was covered last week at some point, I just gave TPS my chassis number and asked for a clutch switch, it was about £12 IIRC. Mine was jumping by 900 odd revs but now only jumps by 100ish with the new switch.
 
What actually is "the usual code" in VAGCOM? Mine over-revs MASSIVELY during a gear change at high boost (like 500-800rpm) and I have no error code to reflect this in VAGCOM. Before people start telling me that the clutch is slipping, I'd just like to say that it feels perfectly tight during normal driving, and only over-revs when I'm really giving it the beans.

Also - how much did you pay for the clutch switch? Don't suppose you have a part number handy?

Cheers!

what car is it what boost are you hitting etc
 
they only fit in 1 way you cant get that wrong
did u rescan after fitting the new 1 ?

Cool, it really didn't want to fit in the other way but it clicked in no problem... The wiring is VERY tight to the connector though. That normal?
 
Hi bez.

The car is a stage 1 A3. Forge DV, pipercross panel filter and after-market side mounted intercooler. Running just over 20psi.

For £12, I'll give the clutch switch a go, but like I said - I don't have any codes that would explain the over-rev...
 
if in normal driveing its ok
but when u have the foot down it does this
id would say you have a bit off slipping causeing this
all the vags iv had mapped its happend to so i usaly kill the clutch then reolace with southbend with lwfw
the switch is worth a try tho
but 20psi on that poor clutch is loads also are you on the oem turbo ?
 
I now have a brand new clutch and there was no difference before and after, running c. 250 brake at less boost, it may be just a coincidence but in both my a3 1.8tqs and my s3 the overrevving only happened after the remap - two completely different maps. Which is where I think Dave's has a good point.
 
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You can test the clutch switch with VAGCom in block 066. On idle it reads 1000. Press the clutch and it changes to 1100 when the switch isn't broken. If you press the brake pedal too it reads 1111.
 

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